Pizza-making machine has chefs in a spin

2009-03-27 10:42:04

Thu Mar 26, 2009 5:43pm GMT

By Daniel Flynn

ROME (Reuters) - A vending machine that bakes fresh pizza in minutes for a few

euros has got Italian chefs in a whirl before it hits the streets in the coming

weeks.

The bright-red "Let's Pizza" machine uses infra-red rays and technology

developed at the University of Bologna to knead flour and water into dough,

spread it with tomato sauce and a choice of topping, and cook it -- all in less

than three minutes.

Its developer, Claudio Torghele, says the machine has proved popular in trials

in two Italian regions, but gourmets say it is an affront to traditional

methods of cooking the classic dish.

"This is not just a vending machine, it's a mini-pizzeria," said Torghele, 56.

"It has windows where you can watch the pizza-making process. Kids, including

my own, love it: when the machine is working, there's always a crowd."

The device was developed with help from Anglo-Dutch group Unilever, which

tested it in Germany, Torghele said. He hopes to launch the machines across

Europe and in the United States, with ingredients varying according to local

tastes.

At present it offers four toppings -- cheese and tomato, bacon, ham and fresh

vegetables -- at an average cost of 4 euros (3.7 pounds). Torghele thinks

"Let's Pizza" will appeal to Europeans looking for cheap options as a recession

hits their pockets. "If I want to eat a great pizza, I go to a pizzeria. But

our product is satisfactory, low cost and available 24-hours a day," he said.

"This is crisis proof ... McDonald's is increasing its sales. Low cost, fast

food is in demand."

Italy is famed for its cuisine and has seen a movement develop against fast

food, called "Slow Food." But it has more vending machines than any other

country in Europe, according to an industry body, mostly doling out hot coffee

drinks.

Purists say the Italian pizza -- invented in the 18th century in the southern

city of Naples -- cannot be rushed: the dough must be mixed and left for 12

hours, the ingredients kept fresh, and the oven pre-heated to around 300

degrees.

"This machine is a toy," Pino Morelli of the Association of Italian Pizzerias

said. "Perhaps it will find a niche overseas, but Italians are born with pizza:

their mothers feed it to them as babies. They understand it."

In Pizzeria Brandi, nestling near the centre of ramshackle Naples, the reaction

to Torghele's invention was cool.

The restaurant invented the pizza Margherita in 1889 in honour of the queen of

the newly unified country, its tomato, mozzarella and basil toppings mimicking

Italy's flag.

"Unfortunately, today people invent many things, but you can't make any

comparison, especially in terms of quality," said chef Marcello, taking a break

from sliding pizzas on a wooden pole into the dome-shaped oven. "The only

benefit is the price."

"We should scrap this 'pizza machine' and bring back the old jukeboxes: at

least they were charming," said Paolo Pagnani, who owns the historic

restaurant.

(Additional reporting by Cristiano Corvino, editing by Paul Casciato