Newsgroups: rec.backcountry From: czichon@psyche.csc.ti.com (Cary Czichon) Subject: Mera Peak (Nepal) Trekking Report Message-ID: Organization: Texas Instruments Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1993 01:00:12 GMT Lines: 1017 I publish the quarterly newletter for TI's mountaineering club. The club has members in North America and in Europe. Occasionally, I receive trip reports from people who've completed once-in-a-lifetime climbs. Readers of this newsgroup contemplating a Himalayan trek should find this report informative. Cary Czichon czichon@csc.ti.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Mera Peak (21,600 feet), Nepal by Chris Ellingham INTRODUCTION This is the account of a four week trekking expedition in November 1992 to a trekking peak, Mera Peak, in the Himalayas. I've written it chiefly as an expansion of the informal diary I kept with some additional explanatory material. The term trekking peak is a legal designation meaning that the Peak is one of 18 mountains in Nepal between 18,330 feet and 21,830 feet which may be climbed by foreign parties upon payment of a small fee ($150 to $300 for a party of 10) to the Nepalese government and completion of a, comparatively small, set of documents. Although all the trekking peaks can be reached without technical mountaineering (we did) technical mountaineering is allowed by the same permit. The permit requires that parties promise to observe certain rules - eg. on taking Sherpa guides and on the payment and insurance for trek staff - and to remove litter etc. Perhaps "non-expedition" would be a better designation than "trekking". By contrast there are another 104 peaks which foreign parties are allowed access to. These are for major expeditions and require a large amount of red tape to be completed before a permit will be granted. The permits are also considerably more expensive. The number of parties is rationed - I believe that there is a 10 year waiting list for Everest. Not all peaks can be legally climbed. Some peaks are sacred and no access is allowed. Our expedition was organised by North West Frontiers of Ullapool, Scotland. The company handled all local arrangements, flight bookings etc. All we had to do was to turn up in a reasonable state of fitness with suitable kit! As I hope you will gather from the account the expedition was not a grim, survival experience but an extremely enjoyable month with a group of strangers who rapidly became good friends. Teasing and chaff was the order of the day - as you will find below. This was my second trip to the Himalayas. My first, in 1988, was straight trek without any real snow or ice work. The highest point we reached than was 16,800 feet. Andy (see below) led that trip too, and John was also in the party. DRAMATIS PERSONAE Andy: A professional trek leader with his own company, North West frontiers, which organises walking holidays in the Scottish Highlands and Islands, and a number of overseas trips (such as this one). A relaxed and knowledgeable leader. Just about accepted designation of his assistant as Young Andy, but certainly didn't like the suggestion of "Old Andy" for himself. Whoops, there goes any chance of my negotiating a discount for the next trek! Young Andy: Another professional trek leader who works on occasions for Andy. An experienced mountaineer who has been on major expeditions in South America. Joined us late in the trek to assist on the ascent of Mera. He came from working as assistant leader for a climbing party in the Annurpana area. Ian: A Scottish forestry manager in his late 30s who carried a St Andrew's Cross flag to plant on the summit. (Took a dim view of any suggestions that this was an English party). An experienced walker in the Scottish hills, but this was his first visit to the Himalayas. His wife hadn't joined the party, though she insisted upon his keeping a thorough diary. Instead she was off on a Caribbean cruise with his sister after his return to Scotland. John: A personnel manager in his late 30s from Liverpool, and proud of it. He and I both went to the Himalayas for the first time, with Andy, back in 1988. He's returned just about every year since then. This in fact was his third attempt at Mera - the two previous attempts had been beaten by delayed flights and bad weather. Kevin: Active retired accountant, who had re-discovered the joys of walking in Scotland with North West Frontiers. After that it seemed a natural progression to him to join us on a trek to Mera. Rosemary: Another Himalayan first timer who was spending an extended vacation on the Indian sub-continent. She'd been on a month's meditation course in one of the monasteries in Kathmandu before setting out on this trek, and was going on to India afterwards. Given to practicing Yogic Assanas in the morning long before anyone but the kitchen staff were awake. An Kami: The "Sirdar" or trek boss. Responsible for all the local arrangements eg. food purchasing, employment of other staff, and generally ensuring the trek ran smoothly. Young by traditional standards to be a Sirdar, but extremely competent. Also a demon card player: we came to the realisation that he didn't "pay" the porters, but just "lent" them money so he could win back over cards. An exaggeration, but a grain of truth in it! Lapka and Nander: The climbing Sherpas. Vastly experienced with major climbs on the South face of Everest, Annurpana etc to their credit. In character as different as chalk and cheese. Nander the extrovert whose motto is "No problem!". Lakpa the introvert, but, with an air of calm professionalism which inspired great confidence. Sanjay: The Cook. Had the ability to produce wonderful meals in the most difficult conditions. (The food was so good that Andy's store of "goodies", intended to make up for any deficiencies in the cooking remained untouched until late in the trek. We only opened it then because Andy insisted it be eaten!) Revealed that he had already ascended Mera 4 times, but wouldn't join us this time on top - he felt he'd seen the view enough times. Passang and Dawa: The Sherpas - a grade lower in status than the Climbing Sherpas. Responsible for guiding (ie. making sure none of us got lost) and acted as mountain porters - ie. carried the tents up to our high camp on Mera. Both were cheerful and resourceful. Kitchen staff and porters: A variable number accompanied us to carry the equipment and food. As the food was eaten the porters were paid off. Got to know a few names, particularly those who carried our kitbags. Mainly Sherpas but some Rai (another Nepalese tribe). The most memorable character was Lapka Kitchen Boy (so called to distinguish him from Lapka Sherpa) who was never without a broad grin and a joke. Obviously going to be a cook before long. Note - Sherpa. A confusing term! It is the name of an ethnic group who live in the Khumbu region of Nepal. However, it also a "job description" meaning a Guide in a party as opposed to the porters or kitchen staff. Fortunately its generally clear from the context which is meant. A TYPICAL DAY (The timings are very approximate. Although I wore a watch I took very little notice of it.) 06:30 Woken in our tents by the Kitchen Boys with the traditional cry of "Morning! Tea? Milik? Sugcar?" Tea served to us in our sleeping bags. Bowls of hot water for washing brough round. 07:00 Breakfast is eaten either in the mess tent or outside, depending upon the state of the weather and how urgently the staff need to get the tent down. Porridge, eggs (scrambled, fried or boiled) fresh chapatis with jam, and tea or coffee was the standard menu. Pack personal gear not required during the day into kit bags to be carried by the porters. 08:30 Start walking. Except on the ascent to the high camp on Mera we only carried light day packs containing stuff we'd need during the day - eg. camera and film, rainwear, a spare fleece, and as we got higher, a down jacket to pull on when not actually walking. Except for the three days on the snow and ice of Mera itself we were walking on rough, but generally well worn, paths. Lightweight walking boots were more than adequate - except when it snowed on the last day! A morning's walking typically covers no more than 4 to 5 miles - though there may be 3,000 feet, or more, of ascent or descent. There are two reasons for this apparent slow pace: the altitude and the necessity not to become separated from the porters. The altitude slows one down because, obviously, with less air it becomes more tiring to walk at a fast pace, but also because you need to take it easily to allow your body to adjust. By far the most frequent cause of altitude sickness is climbing too quickly. Although accustomed to the altitude the porters are slowed by heavy loads (can be as high as 60 pounds) and poor footwear. (Some of the porters carrying rice, maize etc for local merchants are paid so much per pound weight of load, and can carry 120 pounds or more). Except on very steep sections, or on ice the party can spread out as individual paces and desire for solitude, conversation or photo opportunities dictate. The only rules are "don't get in front of the designated lead Sherpa, or behind the sweep Sherpa" and "if you need to relieve yourself, leave your pack on the trail then go off trail. Bury or, better, burn any toilet paper used - what do you mean you forgot to put any in your day pack!" Leaving your pack indicates where you are so nobody else will try to use the same area and ensures that the sweep Sherpa won't go on without you. Temperatures started off in the 60s or 70s lower down during the day, and fell as we got higher. On the morning of our ascent it was approximately -20 degrees. 11:30 Lunch. An extended break which allows the Kitchen staff and Cook time to cook the lunch. Hot juice was always served (drink as much as possible is another help for altitude acclimatisation. However, all water was boiled and/or treated before we drank it!) Western style lunch was generally a selection of easily cooked dishes from dried or fresh ingredients - eg. rice, pasta with salami (popularly known as Donkey Dick). Alternatively we could ask for what the crew are themselves "Dhal Bhat" - lentil curry and rice: ideal food for climbing in cold conditions on as it is an extremely rich in complex carbohydrates. Tastes pretty good too. The lunch break is generally taken by a stream or river which gives you a chance to wash socks or underwear. If not dry by the time lunch is over just pin them to your pack. In the thin dry air clothes dry very quickly. 13:30 Start walking again. 16:30 Arrive at camp site, possibly to find tents already erected by the staff. In any event they soon will be. Afternoon tea is taken (this is a British expedition!) with biscuits too. (More fluid and more carbohydrates). Chance to unwind, read, inspect feet for blisters etc. etc. 18:00 Supper. Similar to lunch, but starts with soup, and there is generally a pudding - normally canned fruit. But when there is enough dead wood for a fire the Cook may display his skill by baking a cake. Eaten inside the tent as it is cold and dark by now. After 10,000 feet certainly glad of down jacket - noticeable that old hands have no silly "loss of machismo" inhibitions about wearing then. Tea, hot chocolate and coffee to end the meal, and personal water bottles are filled with hot water, thus enabling them to act as hot water bottles in the evening as well as your on trek drinking supply during the day. The remainder of the evening is spent in the mess tent round the Tilley lamp chatting, playing cards, and drinking Malt Whiskey (for medicinal purposes). 21:30 Inside a thick, Down, sleeping bag, inside a small two-man tent. Except at very low altitudes it froze every night, and generally there was hoar frost on the inside of the tents when we awoke in the morning. It is extremely important that your bag is good enough - cold nights lead to bad sleep and exhaustion as the body work overtime to generate enough heat. Also important to remember to take a final pee before getting into the bag. Getting up in the middle of the night is VERY cold, particularly if you've allowed your kit to become disorganised so you can't find your head torch. DIARY Day 1: London Gatwick to Kathmandu. Panic as I forgot to get off the train at Gatwick and had to get off further down the line and get a Taxi back! Fortunately I'd allowed plenty of time for mishaps. Remind myself that trips which start off this badly generally work out well. Met John, Kevin and Ian at the airport who had arrived in a less frenetic way! The Nepalese airplane was in for an extended service so we actually flew in an Irish lease plane. Captain Murphy (I kid you not) did NOT inspire great confidence with his announcements - "Prepare for Take-Off" on approaching Frankfurt, and later "we will be cruising at 53,000 feet". The latter sounded ambitious, and was was corrected to "33,000 feet". Didn't ask what had happened to the Royal Nepalese aircraft - after the PIA accident at Kathmandu I didn't want to know! Day 2: Arrival Kathmandu. Andy (leader) at airport. Wondeful chaos, diversity and friendliness. Downside - poverty and pollution. Met the other client, Rosemary, at the hotel. Day 3: AM Sightseeing tour of the temples etc. PM Visit to equipment hire shop. Met with Sirdar, An Kami. Frantic writing of postcards, and last minute sort and repack of kit. Day 4: Early morning start. Squeezed into a up-market tourist bus, a large Mercedes minibus. Porters, Sherpas etc at back - clients at front. Luggage everywhere. Long drive. Flatish to start with, passing through very forgetable townships. Lunch at Lamosangu with a spectacular "box grid" bridge over a river. After that the road deteriorated - steeper,more bends, better views and a gearbox slowly giving up. Made it to Jiri. Jiri is a hole! At end of road - and making the most of the trekking trade. Main advantage only 6000 feet vs. 10.000 feet start at Lukla if we'd flown in. Slept in rough tea house. Day 5: Happy chaos in the morning as the porters were assigned their loads for the first time. So fairly late setting out. At this altitude we're strolling along in shorts and tee-shirts, with low factor sun cream on arms, legs and faces. Easy walk through Pine Forests to lunch at Shivalaya (5,800 feet) - this downhill can't last. It didn't. A climb to Sangbadanda (7,350 feet) where we camped. A fair sized village - very busy with trekkers. Large tea house/lodging house with plentiful supply of beer. Heard that a solo trekker had had her camcorder stolen from her tent - would have been unheard of in Nepal 10 years ago. An Kami had the Sherpas taking turns mounting guard duty over night. In the dark I attempted to pick Dawa up thinking he was my rucksack! No, he was just sitting there guarding it (plus the rest of our kit). The other Sherpas found the idea of Dawa being taken for a rucksack hilarious! I felt extremely foolish and resolved to carry my head torch in the early evening so I'd be ready for the sudden onset of dark. Also met a Scandinavian couple there on their way back from Mera. They told us that it had been very cold on Mera - the woman had suspected frost nip on one toe. Is this trip a good idea? However, they had succesfully summitted. They described the views as "fantastic" but the trail to the summit as "very busy". Health good so far - have I escaped the Kathmandu Quickstep? Day 6: No I haven't - feeling off colour and stomach "unhappy". By end of day a definite low grade fever and slight case of runs. Damn! For next three days Andy keeps me entertained by reading extracts from his 1988 diary describing my battle with The Kathmandu Quickstep that time! John, who shared a tent with me throughout the trip, has a Walkman/Radio and picked up the early morning English language news from Radio Nepal. Learnt that Clinton had won the Presidential election last night - unsuccessful search for the American woman we'd met last night who was asking about the result. We may be in a wilderness area, but the Western world is still there. Already An Kami's quality is showing and the assigning of porter loads went pretty smoothly. Continued climb towards our first pass (Bhandar Pass - 8,900 feet). Majority of party ascended above the pass to a Gompa (Monasetry) and Cheese Factory (sic) which served wonderful yogurt. I was taking things easy, and conserving my energy to fight off whatever infection I'd picked up, so waited for the others at the pass. I continued to be told about the "best yogurt we ever tasted" for the rest of the trek. Decided I could go off fellow trekkers, as well as off the leader. Descended to Bhandar/Chyangma (7,200 feet). Stupas, grass fields, and general feeling of really being on trek. Well, if I'm going to be ill I might as well be ill somewhere where there are wonderful views! A new experience for me too - the low foothills of the Himalayas, green and rolling, for miles and miles. Extend as far as the eye can see. No real sightings of the major peaks, except on the drive in, yet. Day 7: A steep descent to an early rest stop near Surma Kola. One of those perfect resting places by a stream: plants all around us, a clear, blue sky and fast flowing clear water. The less poetic amongst us seized the opportunity to wash socks! I amused myself by taking candid shots of the sock washers. An easy walk along the Likhu Kola river for a couple of miles followed. Bright sunshine, and far enough off the main paths for there to be no litter, except in the immediate vicinity of tea houses. Then came the exciting bit - crossing the river. From the map this seemed easy - a bridge. The more experienced reserved judgement until we'd seen the bridge - some bridges here would give Indiana Jones cause to hesitate! Well, it looked OK - wire hawser and plank construction. Unfortunately it was under repair - most of the planks at the far side had been removed. We stepped gingerly across, hanging onto the handrails and checking that our feet were on solid planks. 50 feet below us lay a swift flowing river about 100 feet across. As an additional complication we had to squeeze by the workmen who were busy attaching new planks. Lunch at Kenja (5,360 feet) - a very prosperous village. Making paper for re-sale to Kathmandu. Very fine, almost tissue paper like. Used for traditional religious paintings, now for sale to tourists. A long steep climb to Sete (8,450 feet). 3.000 feet and 2 miles may not sound much, but when you're feeling like a slightly warmed up version of death its a real struggle. Sete is a small settlement with tea houses and a school. We camped in school house grounds. Most of the villages have a school now, some funded by a charitable foundation established by Sir Edmund Hillary. This evening the first, of many, school masters came to solicit a donation. Meanwhile, I had retreated to tent immediately upon arrival to rest as much as possible, while drinking as much as possible (water, honest!) to keep myself hydrated. Disturbed by loud squawkings and much laughter. On putting my head out of the tent learnt that tonight's supper (a chicken) had escaped capture, and one of her less fleet footed sisters had been captured and was about to be curried in her place. Day 8: Awoke feeling much better. Decided that fellow trekkers and leader were really wonderful people - even if they do go on about yogurt and 1988 respectively! Ridge walk, though gently climbing through fir forest to lunch at Goyun (10,500 feet). An Kami now has trek under full control and spent most of the break playing a board game which seemed to be a cross between pool, draughts and tiddly-winks. Never did manage to understand the rules! A steep, but short, climb to the Lamjura Pass (11,580 feet). The pass itself was pretty barren and stoney. Also very grey, windy and cloudy so little view. After the obligatory atmospheric shots of prayer flags against the sky, we rapidly descended back into the forest where it was rather warmer. Amazing how rapidly the vegetation, and temperature, changes with a small change in height. Continued descent to Tragdobuk (9,380 feet) where there was a very pleasant tea house. (Question: why can't we have nice tea houses in the British Hills? Mind you, I'd probably be the first to moan about 'desecration' if we did). Couple of unusual sights: a wind assisted prayer wheel - I've seen water powered prayer wheels before, but never wind powered. Also, the Buddhist prayer - "Om Mani Padme Hum", "hail to the jewel of the lotus flower" was painted in bright primary colours on rocks by the trail. I've seen it carved, and also occasionally painted in white, but never in colour. Maybe they filmed one of the Konica film ads here? Slight rise to collar of hill which gave a good view down to our campsite at the village of Junbesi (8,775 feet). Junbesi is an attractive village at the head of a valley, with an old and beautiful Gompa. After dropping our kit at the campsite Rosemary and I went to visit the Gompa: the standout feature was a wonderfully serene statue of the Buddha. Since Rosemary is a practicing Buddhist and observed the correct rituals (plus we both contributed to the collection box) the old man who had opened the Gompa for us took us upstairs to the library. Amazing wood carvings showing visions of both Nirvana (the state of enlightenment) and Demons. Also a large collection of old religious scrolls. Lost any merit points towards my next rebirth which I may have gained from this visit, by seeking out the tea house and sharing a couple of beers with Ian, John, Kevin and Andy. My first since day 5 - very welcome too. Day 9: Despite its comparatively low altitude Junbesi is something of a frost trap. Definite, but slight hoar frost on the inside of the tent when we awoke in the morning. An easy climb through forest to the Sallung ridge (10,000 feet). Shortly before the high point, at Sallung (9,750 feet), we took an extended morning break. So far we'd had few views of the high peaks. As we came round the corner approaching Sallung we found (yet another) tea house and a magnificent view: with clear skies we saw a panorama of peaks, partially shrouded in clouds, dominating the skyline in front of us. From left to right (after a good deal of map reading, argument in three languages (English, Nepalese and Sherpa) and several cups of tea we positively identified: Mount Everest (29,032 feet), Kamtenga (22,241 feet), Tramserku (21,680 feet), the triple summits of Kusum Kangguru (highest 20,900 feet), Mera (21,600 feet) and Nau Lekh (20,876 feet). Kevin announced "Now I can die", this caused some alarm until we discovered that he meant "now I've achieved my ambition and seen Everest". Descended to Ringmo Khola (8,525 feet) -crowded picnic site - climbed through the Sherpa village of Ringmo, with visit to cheese factory and yogurt ("still not as good as we had a few days ago, Chris") to the Traksindo Pass (10,125 feet). Descended 500 feet to Traksindo monastery where we camped. (Very grey and cloudy). Day 10: Trail descends through forests to the Sherpa village of Manidingma (7,200 feet). Continued, steep, descent right down to the Dudh Kosi - Milk River - (4,900 feet). Lunch at suspension bridge. Steepish climb through the terraces of the Rai village of Jubing, including a small tea field, then "contoured" (official description - reality lots of minor ups and downs?) to Kharikola (6,800 feet) where we camped. Senior school with volleyball court. Still very cloudy. Day 11: Awoke to clear sky. Short but steep ascent through fields, past Nandar's home to Pangkoma (an unspoilt village). Morning only trek. Lay about in the sun reading etc. Across the valley was another Gompa - here monks were erecting a new prayer flag pole - with much banging of gongs, cymbals and drums. Day 12: Short climb to monastery. Surprised to be met by just one Monk in his early 20s who lived there alone. (The monks we saw yesterday had travelled up especially for the ceremony.) In his traditional robes (yellow shirt under purple wrap around) and less traditional Nike trainers he showed us the prayer room. Monastery still under repair from earthquake damage of 2(?) years ago. He then guided us through the forest - bamboo and rhododendron - to rejoin the main path. An easy climb took us to the pass - Pankoma La (10,400 feet). Cloud had returned overnight and was obscuring our views of the South face of Mera. An early stop for lunch (10:30) at Shibuje. The shop here was the last one before entering the Hinku valley where there are really no shops: the laws of supply and demand operate in Nepal too, so the prices, by local standards were extortionate. Marvellous, misty views down the Hinku but photos just didn't come out - needed a tripod and LONG exposures. View across to tomorrow's climb and subsequent ridge walk. Descended, very steeply indeed, to a small bridge (traditional materials) across the Hinku Khola. The climb was advertised as "tough" to Gai Kharka. In fact, to make it even tougher, we climbed right up to next village (better camping). The poorest areas we visited - flimsy, bamboo huts in place of the stone buildings elsewhere. Day 13: As a compensation for yesterday's climb we had a lie-in - bed tea at 7:00. Luxury! Gentle morning only climb to a wonderful woodland campsite amidst fir and rhododendrons (10,900 feet). Afternoon spent lying around with books and walkmans. Day 14: Lie in again. Itinerary specifies "A day for rest and acclimatization". Practice walk up the early stages of tomorrow's route to about 13,000 feet. Andy's policy of starting low and taking the long route in, rather than flying to Lukla (10,000 feet) and "sprinting" up to Mera in about a week certainly seems to be working. Here we are reaching 13,000 feet and I'm hardly aware of the thinner air. However, the air is getting colder, as well as thinner: fleeces definitely being worn now - even when walking. Afternoon spent fitting crampons to Plastic Boots. Much easier to work out, and to re-adjust fitting of crampons, when your fingers aren't frozen. High on entertainment value too. Another party walked by during afternoon. Didn't meet them as our campsite is a little way off the path. Day 15: Early start - with bed tea at 5:00. Groan! Shortly after emerging from forest we found the other party - also heading for Mera. Felt very morally superior chatting with them: they were still in their sleeping bags inside the tents having their morning tea. Any American readers bemused by the English class system and British humour should skip the rest of this paragraph! The party was "upper class English" two women and two men. The two men, since we hadn't been formally introduced ignored us. The two women were much friendlier with "Sloane Ranger" accents (rather like Princess Di). Promptly nicknamed Fiona and Caroline (typical Sloane names) by us for the rest of the trek. Steady walk towards a pass, with a steep climb to the pass itself pass at 14,800 feet. Great viewpoint (allegedly), but the cloud was down so we couldn't judge for ourselves. Camped near sacred lakes at Chambu Kharka (13,776 feet). There are five lakes, and five is associated with Lord Shiva in Hindu mythology. Apparently at certain times of the year these lakes become a place of pilgrimage for Hindus from both Nepal and India. Spotted several cairns supporting small, rusting iron tridents: the trident is Shiva's symbol. The camp itself is in a magnificent natural amphitheatre, with high rocky faces spanning 270 degrees. A sudden and heavy fall for snow for about an hour, fortunately after we'd got the tents up. The transformation of the scenery after such a brief snowfall was quite remarkable. Day 16: We ascended briefly, but steeply, out of the campsite. The trail goes in and out of a number of side valleys before descending (extremely steeply) to the Hinku River. Happily, the snow had melted away, if it ever settled, on the steepest part of the descents. I ended up on my butt three times during the descent - fortunately no damage to myself or sunglasses etc. When not falling over we could enjoy views up a side valley to Nauleke (20,876 feet). Was it really just 7 days ago that this was a distant peak for us? Crossed the stream/river from the side valley by an extremely rickety bridge (all local materials, including the rope - no wire hawsers this time!) to our lunch spot. I took the chance to take a brief, but thorough bath, in the river. VERY cold indeed, hardly surprising, since its source is a glacier. Bath was even more thorough than I intended since I fell over, again! Well at least today isn't an ascent/descent of an ice field. After lunch a delightful walk: first a bamboo forest, with views down the Hinku Valley. Then a magical rhododendron forest, Arrived at our campsite by the Hinku Khola, a little below Mosam Kharka (12,106 feet). A bent tree across the water, Kitchen boy Lakpa (who else) was the first to cross this. For me this changing of scenery from epic mountains to calm valleys etc is one of the most attractive features of trekking in the Himalayas My diary records that the evening was "cheerful". Mainly because we had decided that from here on we'd better abstain, or at least, greatly reduce the intake of whiskey. (Alcohol and high altitudes just don't mix.) So tonight was an opportunity to drink up several days allowance at one go. A loud debate resulted - on the ethics of trekking in Nepal, I think. The Sherpas, hearing the noise, were convinced that a fist fight was about to break out! So Lakpa Kitchen Boy, was sent over to the mess tent to act as peacemaker: fortunately his services as peacemaker were not required. Raw garlic eating also started coming into vogue - a traditional Sherpa preventative against altitude sickness and there is some scientific evidence that it helps thin the blood. Certainly we had no problems with Vampires on this trek. Diary also records "a cold night". This meant *&(*&( freezing! Day 17: Path followed West bank of the Hinku Drangka northwards, gradually climbing via the kharkas of Godishung, Dupishung and Lungsamba. These are all no more than a few buildings which are only used during the monsoon season when the valley provides good grazing for the animals driven up from the South. Two hours up the river to Gondishang (12,860 feet), a kharka with some stone shelters and mani walls. Trail crossed moraines and boulder fields (yuck!). Climbed to Dukphu, a tiny Gompa said to be several hundred years old. We were told that recently it had been inhabited by an Australian Monk for about 5 years. The walking was easy with good mountain views. The views were constantly changing as the path curved around bringing the view up different side valleys into prominence. Beyond Lungsamba the valley narrowed between the flanks of Kusum Kanguru (20,896 feet) to the West and the truncated far western peak of Mera (20,522 feet) to the east. It really is true that the Himalayas start where other mountain ranges finish. Here we were at about 14,000 feet with 6,000 foot peaks above us, and those are some of the smaller peaks! By now we were liberally plastering on the Sun Screens to block out the intense UV you experience at altitude. Between these two peaks lies Tagnag, a settlement of about 12 houses, and 2 tea houses (!) at 14,300 feet inhabited in the summer and trekking seasons by people from Lukla. Met Young Andy and Passang - plus supply of cabbages. The campsite, in a field by one of the tea houses, was dominated by Mera's western peak: a 5,500 feet rock face cut by diagonal snow bands and draped with fingers of ice - some trekking peak! This face was first climbed by two Japanese climbers in the spring of 1985. There were also stunning views of Peak 43 - Char Pati Himal (22,208 feet). We arrived in the early afternoon and were the only party there. During the afternoon I, Young Andy, Ian and John scrambled up the huge moraine to the North to a beautiful glacial lake, the Sabai Tsho, into which plummets the hanging Sabai Glacier. However, despite the wonderful surroundings Tagnag itself is a pretty dreary place, and a cold campsite. Definitely glad of my down jacket and sleeping bag. Day 18: Another acclimatisation day. The standard route is to walk straight up to Khare (16,729 feet) but Andy, wisely I think, prefers to have people climb above 16,000 feet in the morning, and then move to a campsite at Dig Kharka (15,000 feet). So in the morning we climbed 2,000 feet up the hill behind Tagnag (16,300 feet but no name!) to gain even more impressive views of Mera's West face and of Peak 43. Young Andy, John, Ian and I "stormed up like trains", Andy's description - not mine, so it looks encouraging for Mera itself. Kevin and Rosemary moved at a more "mature" pace (careful choice of words) but still going well. Discovered that Ian was planning to try for an altitude record for playing the penny whistle on Mera, so he had a practice session at our highest point. I've brought a TI baseball hat with me for my summit portrait: maybe I can persuade ASIC or FPGA to pay me for the photo and use it in an advertising campaign? "TI on top of the world" or "TI scales the heights others cannot reach?" perhaps? Reluctantly decide that I'm probably suffering from delusions of grandeur as a result of altitude. John has got something in his pack for his summit portrait, but won't reveal what it is. Returned to Tangnag for lunch. Considerably more crowded as three groups ("Fiona and Caroline", an Australian group, and a party led by a cheerful Dutchman have arrived during the morning. An easy afternoon strolling up to Dig Kharka (15,000 feet). Once again the setting of the campsite was spectacular and was dominated by the abruptlky terminated crest of the Charpati Himal that forms Peak 43. Although higher the campsite was considerably warmer and more pleasant than Tangnag. By a stream with a good cave amongst the boulders for the staff - warmer than the mess tent, as they could build a fire in the cave. Day 19: Late tea, breakfast and washing session. From Dig Kharka the path meandered through the moraines and across streams at the snout of the Hinku Nup and Shar Glaciers and then climbed more steeply to Khare (15,800 feet). Khare is a dirty place! Soil more or less frozen all year round, so lack of bacteria and insects to break down the evidence of human habitation. Only recommendation is that its the last place flat enough to pitch tents on before you reach the snow and ice of the glacier. Day 20: Ascent of Mera La. (Next time Nander tells me it takes 20 minutes to walk somewhere I'll remember he means 90 minutes - maybe its just the difference between Sherpa and Sahib pace. Part of the growing evidence of the truth of the rumour that Sherpas have three lungs.) Anyway, as a result of his estimate I left my light boots in the camp and spent an extremely uncomfortable 90 minutes walking over scree in plastic double boots to the foot of the glacier. General pause for boot changing (for the wiser members of the party) and crampon pulling on. During the break, as well as cursing Nander, I assembled a small collection of stones and photoed them on the glacier: the stones are presents for friends and family - the photo is to try and convince the sceptics that I didn't just pick them up from the gravel parking area behind my house in Bedford! However, once actually on the glacier, very glad of the boots. Spent 30 minutes or so taking dramatic (ie. "pose"y photos of one another ascending the glacier) and being given lessons on crampon technique. One's first time on a steep ice slope in crampons is always odd. To gain maximum grip one has to roll the ankle "out" so that the sole of the foot is parallel to the slope: this means that the crampon points are perpendicular to the ice, and are therefore all gripping the ice. All very logical. BUT since its the reverse of how you slimb in snow or loose stones in ordinary boots - when you try to work the upslope edge of the boot into the slope - it feels unnatural. I was one of the fortunate ones who had already learnt the technique. (Back in April 92 I went on a Rainier Mountaineering Inc (RMI) snow and ice course on Rainier: highly recommended as a chance to try gear out and learn snow and ice techniques before going on a big trek.) My turn to be smug at lunchtime - sitting on the glacier. I had a thermarest bum/bun pad, others had to sit on their rucksacks - colder and less comfortable. Climb to the La. Proved to be highest point Kevin and Rosemary were to reach. However the La is a magnificent place it itself, and a helluva'n achievement to reach. Return to Khare and many mugs of tea. Altitude is very dehydrating. Dutch leader came over to see if Andy had a particular drug in his first aid kit: one of his party had symptoms of tapeworm infestation. Great! Just what you want to hear about while drinking tea and eating biscuits! More seriously did ram home the importance of hygene. Day 21: Unfortunately after overnight consideration Rosemary and Kevin both decided not to attempt the summit. However, for the rest of us it proved to be another clear day with little wind. Certainly more than made up for all the cloudy weather lower down. The plan was for Ian, John, both Andys, myself, An Kami, Nander and Lapka to camp high. Dawa and Passang were to act as mountain porters helping to carry the tents, cooking gear etc to the high camp, but returning to Khare for the night. We retraced yesterdays steps, except that we climbed much higher on a rocky shoulder before going onto the glacier. (Discovered that yesterday's long glacier session was unnecessary, but we'd been taken on it to practice crampon technique.) Progress was slower as this time we were carrying proper packs containing sleeping bags and all the clothing we needed. Pausing briefly on the La we climbed higher to establish the camp at about 19,500 feet at about two o'clock. We had three tents: Ian, John, and myself in one, The two Andys in the second, and the Sherpas in a third. At this altitude, and for the relatively rich Climbing Sherpas, all distinctions of kit disappeared - the tents were similar, the Sherpas' actually had more features, and all three had plastic double boots, down jackets etc. The campsite was well used, though a little cleaner than Khare, and we met a single Japanese trekker there. He was a day ahead of us, so had summitted while we were climbing up from Khare and we met him on his way down. The view from the campsite was unforgettable and, because we were camping there, we also had the privilege of watching the peaks with the evening sun upon them. Sweeping round from the East were Kanchenjunga, Chamlang, Makalu and Baruntse. To the North Everest peered over the massive South Face of Lhotse and the Nuptse/Lhotse wall. Continuing Westward the peaks of Ama Dablam (the most beautiful mountain I've yet seen), Cho Oyu and Kangtega. All around are untracked glaciers. Behind us was an uninterrupted curve of ice and snow leading to the three main peaks of Mera. Once we'd helped pitch the tent we disappeared inside to keep warm - emerging briefly at four o'clock for the evening light views and photo opportunity. With the temperature falling rapidly, back into the tents. Andy had warned us that we'd lose our appetite at this altitude, but that we must keep taking as much liquid as we could and to push down as much sweet stuff as we could bear. Supper was noodle soup, and, just in case we hadn't lost our appetites, some Kerosene had found its way into the soup instead of the stove! A hilarious game of cards followed, with everybody crammed into one tent: local rules required that one shout out the card played for the benefit of those who couldn't see it. I don't recall when we actually got into the sleeping bags but it was early! I actually got a much better night's sleep than I anticipated. I had a slight headache initially, but swilling down a liter of water fixed that problem. I had decided that I'd try sleeping with just my heavy weight thermals, socks and balaclava on so I would have enough clothes to put on in the morning to minimise the temperature shock. In fact I was wonderfully warm all night. So were my boots, both inner and outer, and water bottles which shared the bag with me. Left outside the inner boots would have been stiff as a board, The outer boots, themselves, would have been OK but frozen laces are never easy to tighten and tie. Day 22: Officially awoken at 5 am. - an hour later than planned - with a mug of coffee. The Sherpas weren't any keener than we were to get out of their sleeping bags, hence, I suspect the delay in waking us. The Andys estimated the temperature as -22 degrees Farhenheit ie. 54 degrees of frost. The coffee was almost unbearably sweet, but at least it didn't have any Kerosene in it! We all emerged from the tents wearing every item of clothing, well at least I did. This meat heavy thermals, fleece salopettes, two fleece tops, down jacket, balaclava gaiters and an outer layer of Goretex cagoule and salopettes. This actually proved to be too much and after 20 minutes I removed the cagoule and unzipped the down. Very light packs indeed! We started out in semi-darkness with sunrise coming shortly. I felt a strong sense of unreality - walking this high, on snow, amongst "real" mountains was something I had read about, had watched on TV, and fantasised about as a child. I never thought I'd really experience this. I'm not ashamed to say that a few tears came to my eyes - even if they, the tears that is, did freeze up! Besides the cold the biggest problem was the altitude. I consulted some textbooks when I returned home and discovered that at 20,000 feet the air is, on average, half the density at sea level. That means, obviously, you only get half the Oxygen you're used to - actually its a bit better than that, because the body tries to compensate by generating extra red blood corpuscles to increase the amount of Oxygen you can absorb from each breath. Progress is, inevitably, slow. Panting with so little air is very unrewarding and your pace naturally slows right down in an attempt to avoid getting into any oxygen debt at all. Unfortunately on steep slopes you can't slow down enough. Initially we would walk for just a few minutes, stop for a quick pant, and repeat for ten minutes or so before stopping for a longer break. During these longer breaks Nander would light up a cigarette! I found that unless I exhaled hard, to force myself to breathe deeply I had a nasty "winded" feeling in the diaphragm. The trail was well walked, and wove carefully around the open crevasses We still had to cross unopened crevasses - very odd feeling to step across a 2 inch gap in the snow knowing that below could be a 50 foot, or more, drop! Such crevasses, and cornice edges were marked with flags on yard long sticks of bamboo. Romantic notions of blazing a fresh trail disappear rapidly. First because you don't want to discover a crevasse, and secondly because off the path you sink up to your thigh in the softer snow. We started in boots only, but, as the slope steepened towards 45 degrees we put crampons on. Crampons grip the snow and ice better, but on shallower slopes slow you down. However, the snow was so firm, under the soft covering off the trail, that the Sherpas and leaders decided we didn't need to rope up. We had the full kit of harnesses, rope and ice axes available and extra "hardware" was shared between the Sherpas and leaders in case of real problems. It was a long, slow, and very hard pull to the summit which we reached at about 11:00 - about 5 hours to climb 3,000 feet. Much backslapping, handshakes and hugs ("I say chaps, what happened to the traditions of British reserve"). The main summit was protected by a 15 foot wide crevasse, so the official trekking summit for 1992 was a little lower. The heights quoted by the government regulations, the different maps and the various guidebooks all differ. We're sticking to our claim of 6,600 m or 21,600 feet! I then found that during the ascent I'd hit my camera lens against something so it was skew-whiff and stuck. At least the focus was at infinity! I took panoramic shots in the desperate hope that the camera was still in focus. In fact the photos are pretty good. The panoramic views were, naturally, even more stunning than the views from the campsite. Clear views of FOUR of the world's FIVE highest mountains - Everest, Kanchenjunga, Lhotse and Makalu. Plus a good view all the way down the Hinku valley that we'd walked up for so long. We only stayed on top for 20 minutes or so. Ian played his penny whistle (briefly!) and planted the St Andrew's Cross. I posed for John to take my picture wearing TI hat with Everest in background, and John produced his summit surprise ....... a Father Christmas beard! (His brother in law is a clergyman and wanted a picture of Father Christmas on a snowy mountain for Children's parties.) A rapid descent to the campsite followed. Crampons all the way, I kept my descent controlled, though rapid, by constantly reminding myself that more accidents happen on descents than ascents, due to over relaxing and loss of concentration. John and I sped down in 70 minutes to the camp. An Kami had remained there and greeted us with hot juice and hot canned fruit. Wonderful! Once we had all helped pack the tents and kits we descended, somewhat more slowly, over the La to the glacier and onto the moraine shoulder. Here met by Passang with our regular boots. I felt like I was walking on air with the sudden change in weight of boot. The wonderful man even carried the plastic boots down for us. A long descent to Dig Kharka and a warm welcome from Kevin, Rosemary and the staff. Arrived at about half past four - after a descent of over 6,000 feet. All in all a very long and very exhausting day! The extra descent was worth it to reach a warm, comparatively, campsite. However, the descent and exertion brought my headache back with a vengeance. Eventually cured after pouring down water until I felt like a water filled balloon! Certainly no Whiskey celebrations, though. To bed early, both tired and happy. Day 23: After the high drama of the last three days an uneventful day. A late start (which allowed us to wash both ourselves and our kit). Both were pretty smelly, but as we were all as bad as each other, nobody had cared on the mountain.) I celebrated return to lower (sic) altitudes by wearing shorts again. Rose above the resulting general derision. Looking up to the La we could see snow being blown up by the wind. We had been so lucky to hit a good window in the weather yesterday! Then retraced our route to Tangnang. After lunch we stayed on the West bank of the river and reached a new campsite at Tashing Dingma (11,489 feet) - below the tree line. Met a French party there whom we practiced our (bad) French on. A full scale party that evening. Day 24: Despite the hangovers we managed a day of consistent ascent to Thuli Kharka (14,760 feet) above the tree line once more. Another remarkable campsite! Above us, overlooking the pass we were to climb the next day, an amazing mushroom shaped stack of rock. Below us a layer of cloud, extending as far as we could see, trapped at about 12,000 feet. Apparently due to temperature inversion. Very beautiful, with mountains peaks like islands in a sea of cloud. More prosaically, it might mean a complete change in the weather. Day 25: It did! Very, heavy grey clouds above us when we woke in the morning. A heavy fall of snow seemed imminent. Staff and clients alike gobbled breakfast, packed kit in record time and sprinted for the Zatrwala pass (14,950 feet), to try and beat the snow there. Almost made it! However, the descent was a nightmare! With thick snow falling we had to rig a rope to descend the first steep slope from the top of the pass. I managed some good photos os some very professional looking descents - especially by Rosemary who had never used a rope in her life before! After that it was a slow grind down a steep and very slippery slope. I spent more time sitting down that standing. (I MUST get some boots with better grip for these situations - however new boots were hard to find that day). We clients all made it down safely, but Lapka Kitchen Boy took a tumble - he was OK but overenthusiasm will be the death of him! The original plan was to camp in a woodland clearing at Chutanga Kharka (11,300 feet). Sopping wet and cold we paused for lunch instead, and then, by unanimous consent, stormed onto Lukla. Lukla used to be a village of little importance. Now it is a major trekking point because it has an airstrip which enables people to save a day on the traditional walk in to Everest. It also has many lodging houses with luxuries like stoves! Day 26: At rest in Lukla. Weather changed completely again and is warm and sunny. The kit drys beautifully. Most of the day spent watching other trekkers and planes. One day somebody is going to gather material here for a Psychology Ph.D. thesis! Only about 60% of the scheduled flights actually happen owing to cloud conditions at Kathmandu or at Lukla. (No such thing as instrumentation only landings at Lukla on a dirt runway, which is on a slope, with twin engined Otter planes. Even Kathmandu doesn't have proper facilities - as was tragically proved by the PIA crash there earlier in the year.) As a result rumours spread, intrigues seeth, bribes are paid, all in a desperate bid to be on one of the flights that does happen! We were assured that after long interruptions to service of 2 or 3 days, not infrequent, the first flight out from Kathmandu brings police reinforcements to control the trekkers who can be at near riot point! Said farewell to the trek crew. Andy presented them with our thanks, and the customary tips (very well deserved). We had also respect the other end of trek tradition and donated unwanted kit to be shared between the porters. Andy insisted on dragging us round Lukla until he found a party that evening. I will maintain a discrete silence on why we had to retreat from the party early! Even if I survived the libel lawyers I fear some embarrassing stories about me would emerge too. A good end to the trek though. Day 27: Thanks to local contacts (we were listed on the passenger list as "priority") we were on the second flight out. The take off is always exciting as you bounce down the runway knowing that there is a drop of several thousand feet at the end. This time the stall alarm sounded briefly as we took off! Fortunately those who were most frightened of the flight didn't realise what the noise meant. Ignorance can be bliss. Back to civilisation, showers, CNN and BBC World Service in the hotel reception area. Well it was civilisation until the WWF Main Event came on. First stop was the San Francisco Pizza Parlour (a locally owned and run establishment) and the demolition of a large pile of pizzas. This was an enjoyable compromise between the natural desire to find the best and biggest buffalo steak in town and abstinence. Andy had counselled us to try and control our temptation to binge - for the last three and a half weeks we'd been on a simple diet, so too much rich food could easily cause an upset stomach. Besides, on trek the staff were punctillious with observing hygiene rules. In Kathmandu this may not be the case. Stick to the restaurants people have eaten at safely in the past! Young Andy said his previous party had gone to a new Thai restaurant on their last night, the next morning over half of them got onto the flight with the Kathmandu Quickstep. We avoided that restaurant. Day 28: In Kathmandu. Sightseeing, souvenir buying, and more (semi-controlled) eating. A farewell meal with An Kami in "KC's" - one of the Restaurants that made its name back in the 60s when Kathmandu was on the hippy trail. Day 29: I don't think its worth adding much to the itinerary "Depart Kathmandu, arrive London." AFTERTHOUGHT My next article will talk about some of the practicalities of organising a trip. However, I'd certainly recommend North West Frontiers unreservedly for anyone considering a Himalayan Trek or a walking holiday in Scotland or Europe. Its a small company, so the number of treks is smaller than that offered by the large companies, but the quality is exceptional. Address and Phone Number are as follows. Andrew Bluefield North West Frontiers 19, West Terrace ULLAPOOL, Rossshire IV26 2UU SCOTLAND Phone is International + 44 854 612571 Fax is International + 44 854 612025 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Thanks to Robert Wong, Steve Rice and Mike Adams who spotted a glorious, but highly embarassing, typo in the first draft of this article. Further thanks to Robert for spell checking the first draft and for pointing out where my British English didn't translate into American English!