Tomato

Solanum lycopersicum

Varieties

Illini Star Organic Heirloom

Days to germination: 4
Germination temperature: 60°F-85°F
Planting: start indoors and transplant after threat of frost has passed. 
Overnight temperatures should be steadily in the mid 50s or higher when transplanting.
Days from starting to transplant: 42
Sow depth: 1/4"
Days to maturity: ~72
Plant spacing: 24-36"
Row spacing: 24-36"
Light: full sun
Water: frequent; well-draining; likes drip irrigation 
Harvesting: Ideal when color is vibrant red and flesh is firm or slightly soft.

We like this particular variety because of its medium sized (~7oz), flavorful, and abundant fruits. The flesh is quite firm and these hold up really well to being moved and stored. The fruits are rarely split or blemished and for that reason it makes a lovely market variety.

West Virginia Mountaineer Delight Organic

Days to germination: 3
Preferred germination soil temperature: 60°F-85°F
Planting: start indoors and transplant after threat of frost has passed. 
Overnight temperatures should be steadily in the mid 50s or higher when transplanting.
Days from starting to transplant: 42
Sow depth: 1/4"
Days to maturity: ~80
Plant spacing: 24-36"
Row spacing: 24-36"
Light: full sun
Water: frequent; well-draining; likes drip irrigation 
Pollination: open
Harvesting: Ideal when color is vibrant red and flesh is firm or slightly soft.

This is a relatively new variety, coming out of West Virginia University in 2017. We came upon these by accident when I participated in the 2021 PASA (Pennsylvania Sustainable Agriculture) conference and they sent them to us. We were pleasantly surprised by the incredibly flavorful, beefsteak sized fruits. We delivered a bag to a neighbor who remarked that they were, "to die for". The plants are hardy and are resistent to various disease, including septoria leaf spot. I'd highly recommend this variety to new growers looking for an easy win in the garden.

https://www.davis.wvu.edu/news/2017/08/31/wvu-announces-the-names-of-two-new-tomato-varieties-released-in-honor-of-150th-anniversary

Fertilization

Tomatoes are pretty heavy feeders. We make sure to start the seeds in quality organic mix and add worm castings to the mix which helps provide the young starts with solid nutrition. Garden beds should be prepared with compost/vermicompost and any other amendments necessary for your specific soil condition before transplanting. Once fruits begin to form we apply a blend of Lactic Acid Bacteria and fish-seaweed liquid organic fertilizer, or LAB with FPJ or compost/vermicompost tea, as a foliar spray. We may repeat this later in the season if it is obvious that the plants are no longer getting what they need from the soil.

Transplanting

At transplant we apply mycorrhizal inoculant and water deeply. The fuzzy membranes on the main stem all have the potential to become roots. When transplanting, bury the stem up to about 2" from the first set of leaf branches which will give the plant the opportunity to root deeply and build a strong foundation in the soil.

Pruning

It's important to remove the sucker branches on the plant in order to maintain good air flow and to direct the plant's energy into fruit production. Sucker branches occur at the junction between the main stem and a sun node. They can be removed by hand or carefully clipped away. Sucker branches can be planted straight into the ground, where they'll form roots and provide you with an additional fruiting plant. This is a great way to plant a succession crop without starting or buying more plants.

Clip and remove any limbs that are touching the ground or are shaded from sunlight. Limbs on the ground will lead to disease and shaded limbs are a waste of the plant's energy with no return value.

Pests and Disease

These are the pests and diseases we have encountered, but is not a comprehensive list of all possible disease or pest challenges you may face.

• Septoria leaf spot is a fungal disease that spreads pretty rapidly from plant to plant. Once identified, it's imperative to remove any affected limbs or plants and destroy them (by burning or bagging/removing). High humidity and plant crowding are common factors in SLS, and can remain in soil and plant debris which will infect future crops. Use rotation practices or purchase resistent varieties.

Septoria Leaf Spot

• Tomato hornworms are a common caterpillar that most remember if they've ever grown tomatoes. They devour the leaves of the plants, leave signature droppings everywhere, and are easily identified by their unique markings, bright green color, and signature horn. We rarely remove them as the bracanoid wasp often gets to them before we do, taking care of the issue without our intervention.

Hornworm with Bracanoid Pupae

What Are Bracanoid Wasps?

• Tomato fruitworm (also known as corn earworm) is a caterpillar that can be green, brown, yellow, or red colored, usually with stripes along both lateral sides. They devour fruit, leaves, and stems and are quick to do so. It's quite sad to pick what appears to be a perfect fruit only to see the destruction on the opposite side. We handpick and remove them. Keeping plants pruned and tidy helps birds to come in and grab them as well.

• Anthracnose is an infectious fungal disease that primarily effects overripe fruits in very humid conditions. It spreads easily and can infect the soil if the fruits are allowed to rot in place. We remove and destroy any infected fruits we find and use crop rotation to limit its longevity.

Anthracnose On Tomatoes

• Cracking or bursting is common with tomatoes grown in the field. If the flesh is clearly exposed we compost them, as open wounds in the fruit can be an access point for bacteria. Generally cracking is more aesthetic than anything and we'll cut away those bits before we use them. It occurs for a number of reasons, but in our experience is most related to overwatering due to heavy summer downpours. These downpours often shift the ambient temperature as well, from extremely hot to briefly cool which can also cause cracking or bursting to occur.

What Causes Tomatoes to Crack?

• Deer will occasionally eat tomatoes and tomato plants, but we've only had this issue when there were too few other food sources for them (dry summer, urban crowding). Squirrels occasionally eat or carry off the fruit as well - leading to volunteer plants in the strangest of places.

Storage

Tomatoes do not like to be kept in very cold conditions, such as the refrigerator. Cold reduces flavor and can change the texture of the flesh. We pick them just slight of ripe and let them continue ripening together in a paper bag or box out of direct sunlight in a conditioned space. It's important to keep a close eye and pull out any damaged or ripe, or over ripe fruit. If necessary we will refrigerate very ripe fruits in order to keep them longer, but prefer not to.

Preservation

We blanch, freeze, and can tomatoes and various tomato products.

Blanching

Remove stems and slice a shallow X in the blossom end of the tomato. Place whole tomato in boiling water for 30-45 seconds or until skin pulls away. Remove and place into an ice bath until they are cool enough to pick up by hand. Remove skins and leave whole or chop into desired size. Label bag with name and date and place tomatoes into the bag. Suck the air out of the bag as you zip it to prevent freezer burn.

Canning

Tomatoes are a high acid food and can be safely waterbath canned. Use recipes from reputable sources (such as USDA, Ball canning company, or local extension agencies) and follow all directions exactly.

USDA Complete Guide to Home Canning

Drying

We thinly slice and dry the tomatoes in an oven set to 180°F for about 2.5 hours. These sundried tomatoes are incredible during the winter months. They must be stored frozen in freezer bags (air removed) to keep well. This can also be done with solar energy if air flow is available and the fruits are protected from insects.