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{
	"title" : "Farmall M Paint"
}

# Original paint

Until mid-1949: IH #2150 ≅ PPG 71310 ≅ Dupont 96766

mid-1949 - 1961: IH #1102B

1961-: IH #50 ≅ PPG 70019 ≅ Dupont 7410

## Current brands


	
Southern Polyurethanes (SPI).  Seems to be the favorite of serious restorers

  without unlimited cash

	
PPG.  Commonly a favorite if cash is unlimited.
	
Valspar LVPB200  (low VOC)
	
Eastwood:  Commonly believed to be ??? rebranded.  Some people have good

  success with it but SPI and PPG are usually thought to be better (and more
  expensive)

You can also use CaseIH 2150 which is an acrylic modified alkyd enamel. I

have not used it but it has good reports. It contains some UV protection to

resist fading.

For this project, I'm using SPI for primer.  Topcoat still undecided.

Each coat requires more than a gallon... ?

# Safety

Best paint is acrylic or polyurethane (which requires hardener), but beware
isocyanates.  (You can avoid hardener by using acrylic anamel.)

Isocyanates require supplied air.  Charcoal mask is insufficient.  They
penetrate skin.  Even penetrate latex gloves?

Does SPI epoxy primer require supplied air system?

# Surface preparation

http://www.metalwebnews.com/howto/rust/rust.html

Most of my preparation has been scraping, needle scaler, and sandblashing.

I've done some electrolysis, out of curiosity and/or for the intricate pieces
such as the radiator baffles.  Be prepared to deal with flash rust after pulling
a piece out of an electrolysis bath.

Clean with SPI 700-1 Waterborne Wax and Grease Remover.  Wait 60 minutes for
water to dry out of pores, or clean with SPI 710 WGR.

acid wash

phosphoric acid; scoth brite scrub off when dry

DuPont Quick-Prep

Sherwin Williams Metal Prep

body filler?

# Primer

SPI Epoxy Primer 6630 Red Oxide (2 coats)
     For best corrosion resistance, allow flash time in between:
          spray first
          wait for flash (30 min+ at 70°+)
          spray second

optional surfacer?

# Painting

Thin with Naptha (but avoid if possible).

IronGard IH2150 Red with an OMNI AE hardener (1 part hardener to 8 parts paint). Urethane is better (harder, less fading) but requires supplied air

clear coat only needed if paint didn't have hardener. clear coating with OMNI AU MC161 with Hardener OMNI AU MH167