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2013-01-24 07:45:49
While the main cities of Zurich and Geneva usually spring to mind when planning
a city break to Switzerland, smaller, under-the-radar Basel sandwiched
between the French and German borders in the country s north is Switzerland s
hidden gem.
City sights
The best way to explore the country s third-largest metropolis is on foot; a
stroll through the diminutive city will take you past most of the historical
sites, including the Old Town and Rhine River.
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Start your stroll at the north bank promenade in Kleinbasel (Lesser Basel), a
picturesque residential area thriving with local coffee and art shops tucked in
between old brick houses decorated with red and purple pansies and colourful
wooden shutters. In the afternoons, families and students stroll along the
tree-lined cobblestone path or relax on the steps leading down to the water.
When it gets warm, often as early as May, the promenade is the starting point
for the Rhyschimme (Swimming in the Rhine). This cherished Basel tradition
where people put their belongings in a waterproof, floating bag and drift or
swim down the river is a refreshing lunch break for some, but also a popular
event on the city s calendar; more than 6,000 people are expected to
participate in 2013 s 1.5km swim on 13 August.
You could take the Mittlere Br cke, Basel s main pedestrian bridge and Europe s
oldest Rhine crossover between Lake Constance and the North Sea, built in the
13th Century, to walk from the north banks to the older southern district of
Grossbasel (Greater Basel). But an exciting alternative is just a short walk
east of the bridge to the Vogel Gryff F hre, a wooden boat that looks like a
large Italian gondola. This 20-seater vessel crosses the river year-round; the
gondolier sets off whenever enough passengers are on board and the crossing
takes about five minutes, adults pay 1.60 Swiss francs, children just 80
rappen.
In Grossbasel, the Altstadt (Old Town) charms with its 15th- and 16th-century
architecture, including many half-timbered houses, a common architectural style
in the German-speaking areas (of both Switzerland and Germany) north of the
Alps. In the 16th Century, Basel, as well as nearby southern Germany and France
s Alsace were part of the Upper Rhenish Circle, an imperial circle of the Holy
Roman Empire, whose influence can still be seen in the city s architecture and
its Swiss-German dialect.
On the M nsterh gel, the hill above the south bank, is the M nsterplatz
(Minster square) with the red sandstone Minster, Basel s Romanesque-Gothic
cathedral. The Pfalz, a free observation platform behind the church, offers
excellent views over the Rhine, Kleinbasel and even across to Germany s Black
Forest and France s Vosges mountain range.
Walk down the hill from the cathedral, and, embedded between medieval mansions
and houses, you will find the Marktplatz, a lively market square in the centre
of the Old Town where farmers sell vegetables, fruit, bread and cheese each
day. Here is Basel s classy red Rathaus (City Hall), with its distinctive tall
tower decorated with Swiss flags; take a look inside to see the artfully
painted walls, some of which were completed in 1608 by German Renaissance
painter Hans Bock who resided in Basel. Most of the murals tell the story of
when Basel became part of the Swiss confederation in 1501 or portray
Switzerland s ancient crests, one for each canton.
From City Hall, many G sslein (a Swiss word describing narrow,
pedestrian-friendly, often cobblestone alleyways and streets) wend their way
through the enchanting city to the cathedral and along the Rhine. Street
musicians entertain passersby with saxophone tunes or the typical Swiss-German
Drehorgel a barrel pipe organ on wheels, about half the size of a piano.
Exhibitions and art
Basel is home to more than 40 museums, multiple theatres and Art Basel, the
world s leading annual contemporary art show that has branched out as far as
Miami and Hong Kong. Launched in 1970 by three Basel natives Ernst Beyeler,
Trudi Bruckner and Balz Hilt the event has turned into an international
contemporary art fair and is always held in June, this year between 13 and 16
June. More than 300 galleries from around the world attend and exhibitions
include anything from paintings and short films to live performances and
photography.
The Kunstmuseum, a five-minute walk southwest from Grossbasel s minster, was
the world s first public art collection established in 1661 and still hosts
Switzerland s largest collection, including pieces by Monet, Picasso and
Holbein.
A new Picasso exhibition, running from 17 March to 21 July, will include
previously unseen Picasso works including paintings, sculptures and sketches
collected by Basel locals. The painter had a special relationship with the
city after it held a festival (raising 2.4 million Swiss francs) in 1967 to
purchase two of his paintings Les deux fr res and Arlequin assis both now
part of the museum s collection. Moved by the effort, Picasso contributed three
additional creations to the museum, as well as a pencil sketch of Les
Demoiselles d'Avignon, still on display today.
Basel is also home to a booming chemical and pharmaceutical industry, home to
the headquarters of Novartis, Roche, Ciba and Syngenta, among others. The
University of Basel puts a strong emphasis on the subject, and its quaint
Pharmacy Museum, which portrays the world s most extensive assortment of
pharmaceutical pieces, should not be missed. Expect to see everything from old
medical books and medicine to a replica of an old pharmacy store, as well an
exhibitions on the history of aspirin, discovered by French chemist Charles
Frederic Gerhardt in 1853, and apothecary, the art of pharmacy and medical
treatment that dates back to 2600 BC.
Eat and drink
After walking all day, Basel s many cafes and restaurants offer a chance to
relax and recharge. A local favourite is the Caf des Art s, a cocktail bar
with live jazz performances and an excellent wine list, many from the nearby
French region of Alsace. Another highlight is Bar Rouge, Basel s only
skyscraper restaurant bar. Head to its 31st-floor location for phenomenal views
over the Rhine.
Finally, do not leave the city without trying the hot sweet chestnuts sold on
almost every street corner of the city throughout the year, or Basel Leckerli,
a sweet, spiced, bread-like and square-shaped biscuit exclusively sold in the
city; try it at Leckerli Huus right beside the north side of the Mittlere Br
cke the cosy shop sells the treats all year round.