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HOW TO MAKE BLACKMATCH FUSE:
Take a flat piece of plastic or metal (brass or aluminum are easy to work
with and won't rust). Drill a 1/16th inch hole through it. This is your die
for sizing the fuse. You can make fuses as big as you want, but this is the
right size for the pipe bomb I will be getting to later.
To about 1/2 cup of black powder add water to make a thin paste. Add 1/2
teaspoon of corn starch. Cut some one foot lengths of cotton thread. Use
cotton, not silk or thread made from synthetic fibers. Put these together
until you have a thickness that fills the hole in the die but can be drawn
through very easily.
Tie your bundle of threads together at one end. Separate the threads and
hold the bundle over the black powder mixture. Lower the threads with a
circular motion so they start curling onto the mixture. Press them under with
the back of a teaspoon and continue lowering them so they coil into the paste.
Take the end you are holding and thread it through the die. Pull it through
smoothly in one long motion.
To dry your fuse, lay it on a piece of aluminum foil and bake it in your 250
degree oven or tie it to a grill in the oven and let it hang down. The fuse
must be baked to make it stiff enough for the uses it will be put to later.
Air drying will not do the job. If you used Sodium Nitrate, it will not even
dry completely at room temperatures.
Cut the dry fuse with sissors into 2 inch lengths and store in an air tight
container. Handle this fuse carefuly to avoid breaking it. You can also use
a firecracker fuse if you have any available. The fuses can usually be pulled
out without breaking. To give yourself some running time, you will be
extending these fuses (blackmatch or firecracker fuse) with sulfured wick.
HOW TO MAKE SULFURED WICK
Use heavy cotton string about 1/8th inch in diameter. You can find some at
a garden supply for tieing up your tomatoes. Be sure it's cotton. You can
test it by lighting one end. It sould continue to burn after the match is
removed and when blown out will have a smoldering coal on the end. Put some
sulfur in a small container like a small pie pan and melt it in the oven at
250 degrees.
It will melt into a transparent yellow liquid. If it starts turning
brown, it is too hot. Coil about a one foot length of string into it. The
melted sulfur will soak in quickly. When saturated, pull it out and tie it up
to cool and harden.
It can be cut to desired lengths with sissors. 2 inches is about right.
These wicks will burn slowly with a blue flame and do not blow out easily in a
moderate wind. They will not burn through a hole in a metal pipe, but are
great for extending your other fuse. They will not throw off sparks.
Blackmatch generates sparks which can ignite it along its length causing
unpredictable burning times.
Now you have the basic ingredients to shake the earth like thunder. In
the next installment or two, I will tell you how to put it all together to do
just that. You will find that you have baked a very deadly pie. I have twice
been accused of setting off dynamite in the woods. The explosive power of
your little grey powder may exceed your expectations, so choose your testing
ground with care.
HOW TO MAKE A PIPE BOMB
Buy a section of metal water pipe 1/2 by 6 inches long, threaded on both
ends. Buy two metal caps to fit. These are standard items in hardware
stores. Drill a 1/16th hole in the center of the pipe. This is easy with a
good drill bit.
Hanson is a good brand to use. Screw a metal cap tightly on one end.
Fill the pipe to within 1/2 inch of the top with black powder. Do not pack
the powder. Don't even tap the bottom of the pipe to make it settle. You want
the powder loose. For maximum explosive effect, you need dry, fine powder
sitting loose in a very rigid container.
Wipe off any powder that has gotten onto the top or threads of the pipe.
Gently screw on the second cap. Hand tighten only. Place a small piece of
tape over the hole and go to your test site. Remove the tape and insert a two
inch piece of black match fuse or a firecracker fuse into the hole. Place the
bomb behind a large rock or tree.
Using thread or string, lightly tie a 2 inch piece of sulfured wick to
the end of the fuse. Avoid letting the wick touch any objects. This might
cause it to go out. Light the wick and head for cover in a direction that
keeps the rock or tree between you and the bomb at all times. Get behind cover
at least 50 yards away. You may not expect such a large explosion from such a
small object.
Be extra cautious until You have done this a time or two and it gets real
what you are dealing with. The pipe will be blown to pieces which will fly
through the air like bullets. An accident could seriously wound or kill you.
This is not a big firecracker. It is more like a hand grenade. The size of
the bomb can be increased by using a larger pipe and caps.
To make a big noise without blowing up your pipe, cap one end only. Drill
a 1/16 hole at the top of the threads at the capped end. Put in about 3 to 4
rounded teaspoonsful of powder. Pack about 2 inches of wadding on top of the
powder. Toilet paper or kleenex is good for this. Pack it tight. Open up a
safety pin and stick it into the hole. Work it around to loosen up the powder
so a fuse can be inserted. When this goes off, the recoil will be tremendous.
You will loose your pipe unless you brace it securely against something.
The pipe can be reloaded and used again. A fun trick is to mount the pipe
pointing upward. Drop a tin can over the open end and light the fuse. The can
will be blown high into the air. Campbell's soup cans are great for this.
HOW TO MAKE ROCKET FUEL
This is easy to make and fun to play with. Mix equal parts by volume
Potassium or So dium Nitrate and granulated sugar. Pour a big spoonful of
this into a pile. Stick a piece of blackmatch fuse into it; light; and step
back. This is also a very hot incendiary. A little imagination will suggest
a lot of experiments for this.
ANOTHER ROCKET FUEL
Mix equal parts by volume of zinc dust and sulfur. Watch out if you
experiment with this. It goes off in a sudden flash. It is not a powerful
explosive, but is violent stuff even when not confined because of its fast
burning rate.
--- As I continue from this point some of the ingredients are going to be
harder to get without going through a chemical supply. I try to avoid this.
I happen to know that B. Prieser Scientific (local to my area) has been
instructed by the police to send them the names of anyone buying chemicals in
certain combinations. For example, if a person were to buy Sulfuric acid,
Nitric acid and Toluene (the makings for TNT) in one order the police would be
notified. I will do the best I can to tell you how to make the things you
need from commonly available materials, but I don't want to leave out
something really good because you might have to scrounge for an ingredient. I
am guessing you would prefer it that way.
HOW TO MAKE AN EXPLOSIVE FROM COMMON MATCHES
The word "safety" in safety matches is misleading. The chemical on the heads
of safety matches is a powerful explosive. It is similar to black powder but
has a lower ignition temperature (more sensative to heat) and unlike black
powder is easily detonated by impact.
This feature moves it up into the high explosives class. To test this, lay a
paper safety match on a hard flat surface and hit the head sharply with a
hammer. What do you know! It goes bang! To collect a quantity of this
explosive, it is best to use wooden safety matches. Buy several cartons.
They're cheap. Note that these should be safety matches, not the strike
anywhere kind.
Pinch the head near the bottom with a pair of wire cutters to break it up;
then use the edges of the cutters to scrape off the loose material. It gets
easy with practice. You can do this while watching TV and collect enough for
a bomb without dying of boredom.
Once you have a good batch of it, you can load it into a pipe instead of
black powder. Be careful not to get any in the threads, and wipe off any that
gets on the end of the pipe. Never try to use this stuff for rocket fuel. A
science teacher was killed that way.
Just for fun while I'm on the subject of matches, did you know that you
can strike a safety match on a window pane? Hold a paper match between your
thumb and first finger. With your second finger, press the head firmly
against a large window. Very quickly, rub the match down the pane about 2
feet while maintaining the pressure. The friction will generate enough heat
to light the match.
Another fun trick is the match rocket. Tightly wrap the top half of a paper
match with foil. Set it in the top of a pop bottle at a 45 degree angle.
Hold a lighted match under the head until it ignites. If you got it right,
the match will zip up and hit the ceiling.
I just remembered the match guns I used to make when I was a kid. These are
made from a bicycle spoke. At one end of the spoke is a piece that screws
off. Take it off and screw it on backwards. You now have a piece of stiff
wire with a small hollow tube on one end. Pack the material from a couple of
wooden safety matches into the tube. Force the stem of a match into the hole.
It sould fit very tightly. Hold a lighted match under the tube until it gets
hot enough to ignite the powder. It goes off with a bang.
--- For later projects, like a chemical time delay fuse, you will need some
concentrated sulfuric acid. So, I better tell you how to make it.
HOW TO MAKE CONCENTRATED SULFURIC ACID FROM BATTERY ACID
Go to an auto supply store and ask for "a small battery acid". This should
only cost a few dollars (about 4 dollars). What you will get is about a
gallon of dilute sulfuric acid. Put a pint of this into a heat resistant
glass container. The glass pitchers used for making coffee are perfect.
Do not use a metal container. Use an extension cord to set up a hotplate out
doors. Boil the acid until white fumes appear. As soon as you see the white
fumes, turn off the hot plate and let the acid cool. Pour the now
concentrated acid into a glass container. The container must have a glass
stopper or plastic cap -- no metal. It must be air tight. Otherwize, the
acid will quickly absorb moisture from the air and become diluted. Want to
know how to make a time bomb that doesn't tick and has no wires or batteries?
Hold on to your acid and follow me into the next installment.
HOW TO MAKE A CHEMICAL TIME DELAY FUSE:
To get an understanding of how this is going to work, mix up equal parts
by volume Potassium chlorate and granulated sugar. Pour a spoonful of the
mixture in a small pile and make a depression in the top with the end of a
spoon. Using a medicine dropper, place one drop of concentrated sulfuric acid
in the depression and step back.
It will snap and crackle a few times and then burst into vigorous flames.
To make the fuse, cut about 2 inches off a plastic drinking straw. Tamp a
small piece of cotton in one end. On top of this put about an inch of the
clorate/sugar mixture.
Now lightly tamp in about a quarter inch of either glass wool or asbestos
fibers. Secure this with the open end up and drop in 3 or 4 drops of sulfuric
acid. After a few minutes the acid will soak through the fibers and ignite
the mixture.
The time delay can be controled by the amount of fiber used and by varying
how tightly it is packed. Don't use cotton for this. The acid will react
with cotton and become weakened in the process. By punching a hole in the
side of the straw, a piece of blackmatch or other fuse can be inserted and
used to set off the device of your choice.
Potassium chlorate was very popular with the radical underground. It can
be used to make a wide variety of explosives and incendiaries, some of them
extremely dangerous to handle. The radicals lost several people that way.
But, don't worry. I am not going to try to protect you from yourself. I have
decided to tell all. I will have more to say about Potassium chlorate, but
for now, let's look at a couple of interesting electric fuses.
HOW TO MAKE AN ELECTRIC FUSE
Take a flashlight bulb and place it glass tip down on a file. Grind it
down on the file until there is a hole in the end. Solder one wire to the case
of the bulb and another to the center conductor at the end. Fill the bulb
with black powder or powdered match head. One or two flashlight batteries will
heat the filament in the bulb causing the powder to ignite.
ANOTHER ELECTRIC FUSE
Take a medium grade of steel wool and pull a strand out of it. Attach it
to the ends of two pieces of copper wire by wrapping it around a few turns and
then pinch on a small piece of solder to bind the strand to the wire. You want
about 1/2 inch of steel strand between the wires. Number 18 or 20 is a good
size wire to use.
Cut a 1/2 by 1 inch piece of cardboard of the type used in match covers.
Place a small pile of powdered match head in the center and press it flat.
place the wires so the steel strand is on top of and in contact with the
powder. Sprinkle on more powder to cover the strand.
The strand should be surounded with powder and not touching anything else
except the wires at its ends. Place a piece of blackmatch in contact with the
powder. Now put a piece of masking tape on top of the lot, and fold it under
on the two ends. Press it down so it sticks all around the powder.
The wires are sticking out on one side and the blackmatch on the other.
A single flashlight battery will set this off.
ELECTRIC FUSE # 3
An excellent electric fuse can be bought ready made at hobby and toy
stores. They are sold for setting off model rockets.
MORE SPONTANIOUS COMBUSTION
Some of the ingredients for these can only be had from a chemical supply so
they are not my favorites. Look for powdered aluminum at a good painting
supply.
METHOD # 1
Scatter out a few crystals of chromic anhydride. Drop on a little ethyl
alcohol. It will burst into flame immediately.
METHOD # 2
Mix by weight, four parts ammonium chloride, one part ammonium nitrate, four
parts powered zinc. Pour out a small pile of this and make a depression on
top. Put one or two drops of water in the depression. Stay well back from
this.
METHOD # 3
Put one gram of powdered potassium permanganate into a paper cup. Drop two
drops of glycerine onto it. After a few seconds it will burst into flames.
METHOD # 4
Spoon out a small pile of powdered aluminum. Place a small amount of sodium
peroxide on top of this. A volume the size of a small pea is about right.
One drop of water will cause this to ignite in a blinding flare.
METHOD # 5
Mix by volume 3 parts concentrated sulfuric acid with 2 parts concentrated
nitric acid. Hold a dropper of turpentine about 2 feet above the mixture.
When drops strike the acid they will burst into flame.
HOW TO MAKE NITROGEN TRIIODIDE
Here are some notes I took four years ago on how to make this wild explosive
that can be detonated by a fly walking on it.
Five grams iodine, three grams potassium iodide, 20 ml. concentrated
ammonium hydroxide, filter paper, funnel.
Stir the potassium iodide and iodine together in a beaker with 50 ml. of
water. Add the ammonium hydroxide with stirring until no more precipitate
forms.
Filter and spread a thin layer of the wet solid on several filter papers.
Break the filter papers into many small pieces and allow to dry for several
hours. On drying, the paper is extremely sensitive to touch and will explode
violently with the slightest disturbance. Can be handled safely when wet. Do
not let any sizeable quantity of the dry material accumulate.
--- I was able to buy concentrated ammonium hydroxide from a photographic
supply.
I. COMMON "WEAK" EXPLOSIVES.
A. GUNPOWDER:
75% POTASSIUM NITRATE
15% CHARCOAL
10% SULFUR
The chemicals should be ground into a fine powder (seperately!) with a mo
rter & pestle. If gunpowder is ignited in the open, it burns fiercely, but if
in a closed space it builds up pressure from the released gases and can
explode the container. Gunpowder works like this: the potassium nitrate
oxidizes the charcoal and sulfur, which then burn fiercely. carbon dioxide
and sulfur dioxide are the gases released.
B. AMMONAL:
Ammonal is a mixture of ammonium nitrate (a strong oxidizer) with aluminum
powder (the 'fuel' in this case). I am not sure of the % composition for
ammonal, so you may want to experiment a little using small amounts.
C. CHEMICALLY IGNITED EXPLOSIVES:
1. using various chemicals, I have developed a mixture that works very well
for imitating volcanic eruptions. i have given it the name 'mpg volcanite'
Here it is: potassium chlorate + potassium perchlorate + ammonium nitrate + am
monium dichromate + potassium nitrate + sugar + sulfur + iron filings + charcoa
l + zinc dust + some coloring agent.
(scarlet= strontium nitrate, purple= iodine crystals, yellow= sodium
chloride, crimson= calcium chloride, etc...).
PEROXYACETONE
PEROXYACETONE IS EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE AND HAS BEEN REPORTED TO BE SHOCK
SENSITIVE.
MATERIALS-
4ML ACETONE
4ML 30% HYDROGEN PEROXIDE
4 DROPS CONC. HYDROCHLORIC ACID
150MM TEST TUBE
Add 4ml acetone and 4ml hydrogen peroxide to the test tube. then add 4 drops
concentrated hydrochloric acid. In 10-20 minutes a white solid should begin to
appear. if no change is observed, warm the test tube in a water bath at 40
celsius. Allow the reaction to continue for two hours. Swirl the slurry and
filter it. Leave out on filter paper to dry for at least two hours. To
ignite, light a candle tied to a meter stick and light it (while staying at
least a meter away) .
B. SMOKE SMOKE SMOKE...
The following reaction should produce a fair amount of smoke. Since this
reaction is not all that dangerous you can use larger amounts if necessary
6 pt. ZINC POWDER
1 pt. SULFUR POWDER
Insert a red hot wire into the pile, step back.
There are many other experiments I could have included, but i will save them
for the next chemist's corner article. upcoming articles will include
glow-in-the-dark reactions, 'party' reactions, things you can do with
household chemicals , etc...
I would like to give credit to a book by shakashari entitled "Chemical
demonstrations" for a few of the precise amounts of chemicals in some
experiments.
...ZAPHOD BEEBLEBROX/MPG!
THE CHEMIST'S CORNER #2: HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS, BY ZAPHOD BEEBLEBROX/MPG
This article deals with instructions on how to do some interesting
experiments with common household chemicals. Some may or may not work
depending on the concentration of certain chemicals in different areas and
brands. I would suggest that the person doing these experiments have some
knowledge of chemistry, especially for the more dangerous experiments.
I am not responsible for any injury or damage caused by people using this
information. It is provided for use by people knowledgable in chemistry who
are interested in such experiments and can safely handle such experiments.
I. A LIST OF HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND THEIR COMPOSITION
VINEGAR: 3-5% ACETIC ACID BAKING SODA: SODIUM BICARBONATE
DRAIN CLEANERS: SODIUM HYDROXIDE SANI-FLUSH: 75% SODIUM BISULFATE
AMMONIA WATER: AMMONIUM HYDROXIDE CITRUS FRUIT: CITRIC ACID
TABLE SALT: SODIUM CHLORIDE SUGAR: SUCROSE
MILK OF MAGNESIA-MAGNESIUM HYDROXIDE TINCTURE OF IODINE- 4% IODINE
RUBBING ALCOHOL- 70 OR 99% (DEPENDS ON BRAND) ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL (DO NOT DRINK!)
GENERATING CHLORINE GAS
This is slightly more dangerous than the other two experiments, so you
shouild know what you're doing before you try this...
Ever wonder why ammonia bottles always say 'do not mix with chlorine bleach',
and visa-versa? That's because if you mix ammonia water with ajax or something
like it, it will give off chlorine gas. To capture it, get a large bottle and
put ajax in the bottom. then pour some ammonia down into the bottle. since
the c hlorine is heavier than air, it will stay down in there unless you use
large amounts of either ajax or ammonia (don't!). for something fun to do
with chlorine STAY TUNED....
CHLORINE + TURPENTINE
Take a small cloth or rag and soak it in turpentine. Quickly drop it into the
bottle of chlorine. It should give off a lot of black smoke and probably start
burning...
GENERATING HYDROGEN GAS
To generate hydrogen, all you need is an acid and a metal that will react
with that acid. Try vinegar (acetic acid) with zinc, aluminum, magnesium,
etc. You can collect hydrogen in something if you note that it is lighter
than air.... l ight a small amount and it burns with a small *pop*.
Another way of creating hydrogen is by the electrolysis of water. this
involve sseperating water (H2O) into hydrogen and oxygen by an electric
current. To do this, you need a 6-12 volt battery (or a DC transformer), two
test tubes, a large bowl, two carbon electrodes (take them out of an unworking
6-12 volt battery), and table salt. Dissolve the salt in a large bowl full of
water. Submerge the two test tubes in the water and put the electrodes inside
them, with the mouth of the tube aiming down. Connect the battery to some
wire going down to the electrodes.
This will work for a while, but chlorine will be generated along with the
oxygen which will corrode your copper wires leading to the carbon
electrodes... (the table salt is broken up into chlorine and sodium ions, the
chlorine comes off as a gas with oxygen while sodium reacts with the water to
form sodium hydroxide....). therefore, if you can get your hands on some
sulfuric acid, use it instead. it will not affect the reaction other than
making the water conduct electricity.
Addendum 4/12/91: DO NOT use a transformer that outputs AC current!
Not only is AC inherently more dangerous than DC, it also produces equal
amount of Hydrogen and Oxygen at each electrode.
HYRDOGEN + CHLORINE
Take the test tube of hydrogen and cover the mouth with your thumb. Keep it
inverted, and bring it near the bottle of chlorine (not one that has reacted
with turpentine). Say "goodbye test tube", and drop it into the bottle. The
hydrogen and chlorine should react and possibly explode (depending on purity
and amount of each gas). An interesting thing about this is they will not
react if it is dark and no heat or other energy is around. When a light is
turned on, enough energy is present to cause them to react...
PREPARATION OF OXYGEN
Get some hydrogen peroxide (from a drug store) and manganese dioxide (from
a battery- it's a black powder). Mix the two in a bottle, and they give off
oxygen. If the bottle is stoppered, pressure will build up and shoot it off.
Try lighting a wood splint and sticking it (when only glowing) into the
bottle. The oxygen will make it burst into flame. The oxygen will allow things
to burn better...
IODINE
Tincture of iodine contains mainly alcohol and a little iodine. To
seperate them, put the tincture of iodine in a metal lid to a bottle and heat
it over a candle. Have a stand holding another metal lid directly over the
tincture (about 4-6 inches above it) with ice on top of it. The alcohol
should evaporate, and the iodine should sublime, but should reform iodine
crystals on the cold metal lid directly above. If this works (I haven't
tried), you can use the iodine along with household ammonia to form nitrogen
triiodide.
...ZAPHOD BEEBLEBROX/MPG!
CHLOROX-DRAINO By The Mortician Sysop of: The Morgue (201)376-4462
I am not too sure on how this works but I am pretty sure that you can make a
really powerful bomb by taking a can of draino and mixing it with Chlorox. I
think that these two compounds will spontaniously explode so don't just pour
them together.
I think what you do is get the draino in a cardboard can and then put it
in a bucket of chlorox and what will happen is either the draino or chlorox
will eat through the cardboard and they will meet and explode.
You might want to experiment with this by rigging it up so you can cause
the two to combine while you stand a distance a way. I reccomend extreme
caution with this and wear goggles....
Just like pour some chlorox into a pan and then have a can of draino with a
string tied to it so you can make it spill into the chlorox... Be Careful. I
don't need a law suit... If you find anything out call The Morgue and leave me
feedback and/or get me in chat and I will update this file with credit to
you....
Addendum 4/12/91: All this reaction does is produce heat and gas.
I have found that Pool Chlorine tablets with strong household ammonia react
to produce LOTS of chlorine gas and heat... also mixing the tablets with
rubbing alcohol produces heat, a different (and highly flammable) gas, and
possibly some sort of acid (it eats away at just about anything it touches)
If you have any more info, send me mail: KADOKEV@IITVAX (Bitnet)
kadokev@iitvax.iit.edu
I'd especially appreciate chemical formulas, or other interesting combinations
(also a source for the pure chemicals in the tablets and in household ammonia)
HOW TO MAKE DRUGS !
IN NO WAY AM I RESPONSIBLE FOR FOR ANY INJURIES CAUSED BY THE USE/MISUSE OF
THESE DRUGS. YOU SHOULD TREAT THESE DRUGS LIKE ALCOHOL. USE THEM ONLY AS AN
ADDED EXPERIENCE IN LIFE, RATHER THAN AN ESCAPE.
THESE RECIPES ARE ALL FOUND IN A BOOK WHICH HAS RELIABLE SOURCES. ALL SHOULD
WORK IF MADE PROPERLY.
BANANDINE (MADE FROM BANANA!)
BANANAS DO CONTAIN A SMALL QUANTITY OF A MILD SHORT LASTING PSYCHODELIC DRUG.
THERE ARE BETTER WAYS OF GETTING HIGH BUT THE GREAT ADVANTAGE OF THIS IS THAT
BANANAS ARE LEGAL (FOR NOW)
1] OBTAIN 15 LBS OF RIPE YELLOW BANANAS
2] PEEL THEM ALL, EAT THE CHOW, KEEP THE PEELS.
3] WITH A SHARP KNIFE, SCRAPE OFF THE INSIDES OF THE PEELINGS, AND SAVE THE
SCRAPED MATERIAL.
4] PUT ALL SCRAPED MATERIAL IN A LARGE POT AND ADD WATER. BOIL FOR THREE
TO FOUR HOURS UNTIL IT HAS ATTAINED A SOLID PASTE.
5] SPREAD THIS PASTE ON COOKIE SHEETS AND DRY IN OVEN FOR ABOUT 20 MIN. TO A
HALF AN HOUR. THIS WILL RESULT IN A FINE BLACK POWDER ROLL IT UP AND SMOKE
ABOUT 3-4 OF THOSE DUDES
PEANUTS!
1] OBTAIN A POUND OF PEANUTS.
2] SHELL THEM, SAVING THE SKINS AND DISCARDING THE SHELLS.
3] PORK OUT ON THE NUTS WHILE WATCHING David Letterman ONE NIGHT.
4] GRIND UP THE SKINS, ROLL THEM, SMOKE THEM.
Any fool can grow their own marijuana.... just plant the seeds in a warm,
sunny and not too public place, water and fertilize as you would any other
plant, and in a short while you'll have your own homegrown weed. I've heard
that you can kill mites by soaking some tobacco (buy a pack of plain pipe
tobacco) in water, and spraying it on the leaves (you don't want to use toxic
chemicals on something you're going to smoke later)
If you're not used to the stuff, cut it with 50% tobacco, and smoke it in
a filtered pipe or use the mixture to refill a cigarette- the tar content is
MUCH higher than that of a regular cigarrette.
Remember, cultivation is a FEDERAL crime, so if you can do it at home,
just pick a room with no windows, and put in some grow lights (sodium vapor
lamps are reputed to be the best- steal a couple streetlights) and a water
spigot.
TRIPWIRES by The Mortician
Well first of all I reccommend that you read the file on my board about
landmines... If you can't then here is the concept.
You can use an m-80,h-100, blockbuster or any other type of explosive that
will light with a fuse. Now the way this works is if you have a 9 volt
battery, get either a solar igniter (preferably) or some steel wool you can
create a remote ignition system. What you do it set up a schematic like this.
------------------>+ batery
steel || ->- batery
wool || /
:==:--- <--fuse \
|| /
---- spst switch--\
So when the switch is on the currnet will flow through the steel wool or
igniter and heat up causing the fuse to light.
Note: For use with steel wool try it first and get a really thin piece of
wire and pump the current through it to make sure it will heat up to light the
explosive.
Now the thing to do is plant your explosive wherever you want it to be,bury
it and cover the wires. Now take a fishing line (about 20 lb. test) and tie
one end to a secure object. Have your switch secured to something and make a
loop on the other end on the line. Put the loop around the switch such that
when pulled it will pull the switch and set off the explosive.
To ignite the explosive... The thing to do is to experiment with this and
find your best method... Let me know on any good kills, or new techniques...
On my board... (201)376-4462
Addendum 4/12/91:
I would suggest you try the clothespin trick, it works much better.
BOOBY TRAP TRIP WIRES...... BY Vlad Tepes (of Chgo C64 fame)
Here is a method for constructing boobytraps which I personally invented,
and which I have found to work better than any other type of release booby
trap.
There are many possible variations on this design, but the basic premise
remains the same. What you'll need is 3-4 nails each 2 inches long and soft
enough to bend easily (galvanized iron works well), some wire or fishing line,
some string or rope, and a really sick mind.
Hammer two of the nails into the trunk of a tree (about one inch apart) so
they form a horizontal line. They should be angled slightly upward, about 30
degrees.
Bend each nail Downward about one inch out from the trunk. Take your
nefarious device (say a small rock suspended in a tree) and rig a rope or
string so it comes DOWN towards the two nails. Tie a loop in the string so the
loop *just* reaches between the two nails, and pass a third nail between the
two nails with the loop around this nail between the two others (see diagrams)
bent nails
/ || ^ slight upward tension
# /\ ||
#/ @ || @ ( @ are the two nails, head on)
# ------!----()------
# trip wire
\ /
Trunk third nail
Now tie one end of the fishing line to the head of the third nail, and the
other end around another tree or to a nail (in another tree, a root or a
stump etc).
When somebody pulls on the trip wire, the nail will be pulled out and your
sick creation will be released to do it's damage (try tying it to a firing
pin). There are several possible variations. More than one trip wire can be
attached to the same nail, or this device can be used to arm a second trip
wire. Large wire staples or hook and eye loops can be used to replace the two
bent nails.
A more interesting variation uses a straight piece of metal rod with a
hole at each end, or with a short wire loop welded to each end. One end is
attached to the tripwire, the other is attached to a spring.
||
- /\/\/\/\/\-===()=======--------------------------------------*
SPRING BOLT Trip wire
With this design the loop will be released if the tripwire is pulled or if
it is broken. The spring should be under moderate tension and well oiled.
RECIPE FOR A STANDARD PLASTIC EXPLOSIVE
INGREDIENTS:
GASOLINE - 1 PART OIL - 1 HALF PART STYROFOAM - 1 PART
1) MELT STYROFOAM. -REMEMBER NEVER AT ANY TIME LET THE MIXTURE GET TOO HOT.
Addendum 4/12/91
Acetone will dissolve the styrofoam, and requires no heat- this is an
ingredient in nail polish remover, or it is available at any good automotive
supply store in the paint section.
A nice trick is to walk into a store, grab a bottle of nail polish remover
(check the ingredients, it should have acetone in it) then "accidentally"
pour it into a large stack of (uncoated) styrofoam coolers and wander off.
2) LET COOL TO A THICK VISCOSITY.
3) MIX 3 INGREDIENTS TOGETHER IN FOLLOWING ORDER: FIRST ADD STYROFOAM, THEN
OIL, THEN GAS.
4) MIX IN A DEEP POT - KEEP MIXTURE AWAY FROM ANY TYPE OF FIRE! DO THIS STEP
WITH EXTREME CAUTION.
5) LET THE MIXTURE COOL TO A LITTLE BIT WARMER THAN ROOM TEMPERATURE - AROUND
88 DEGREES FARENHEIT.
6) MOLD THE MIXTURE HOW YOU WANT. (DIFFERENT SHAPES WILL MAKE IT MORE OR LESS
LETHAL).
OPTIONAL: YOU CAN ADD NUTS, BOLTS, AND SCREWS WHILE MIXING, ALONG WITH
GUNPOWDER, 2 M-80'S, OR ANY OTHER TYPE OF EXPLOSIVE TO MAKE IT THE EQUIVILANT
OF A MOLOTOV COCKTAIL.
NOTE: THE FRAGMENTS (NUTS, BOLT, ETC.) ARE DEADLY. THEY WILL PENETRATE A
BRICK WALL WHEN THE MIXTURE IS DETONATED.
DETONATION
1) THE MIXTURE CAN BE THROWN, BUT SOMETIMES DETONATION DOES NOT OCCUR.
2) THE MIXTURE CAN BE WIRED FOR AN ELECTRIC CHARGE TO BE SENT THROUGH IT, IT
WILL DETONATE WITHOUT DOUBT. A REGULAR FUSE CAN BE SENT THROUGH IT ALSO. IF
THIS METHOD IS USED, SOME SORT OF TIMER IS RECOMMENDED.
Addendum 4/12/91: This just burns and smokes, WILL NEVER explode.. don't bother!
Nitroglycerin [heretofore Nitro] is a very powerful high- explosive. I am
not sure who invented it but he probably didn't-- the first person to make it
probably blew himself up and his friend got the info off his notes.
Well anyway, the next best thing to Nitro is TNT which is ten times harder to
make but also ten times safer to make. If you can't use common sense then
dont even TRY to make this stuff--a few drops can blow off your hand in the
right circumstances.
To make Nitro:
Mix 100 parts fuming nitric acid (for best results it should have a
specific gravity of 50 degrees Baume') with 200 parts sulphuric acid.
This is going to be HOT at first--it won't splatter if you pour the nitric
INTO the sulphuric but don't try it the other way around. The acid solutions
together can disolve flesh in a matter of seconds so take the proper measures
for God's sake!!!
When cool, add 38 parts glycerine as slowly as possible. Let it trickle down
the sides of the container into the acids or it won't mix thourily and the
reaction could go to fast--which causes enough heat to ignite the stuff.
Stir with a **GLASS** rod for 15 seconds or so then CARFULLY pour it into 20
times it's *VOLUME* of water. It will visibly precipitate immediatly. there
will be twice as much Nitro as you used glycerin and it is easy to separate.
Mix it with baking soda as soon as you have separated it-- this helps it not
to go off spontainiously.
Addendum 4/12/91: Do NOT let the temperature get above 32 degrees centigrade!!!
NOTES: Parts are by weight and he Baume' scale of spicific gravity can be
found in most chem. books. You can get fuming nitric and sulfuric acids
wherever good chemicals or fertilizers are sold.
It is positivly *STUPID* to make more than 200 grams of Nitro at a time.
When mixing the stuff wear goggles, gloves, etc. When I first made the stuff
I had the honor of having it go off by itself (I added too much glycerine at a
time.)
I was across the room at the time, but I felt the impact--so did the table
it was on as well as the window it was next to--they were both smashed by only
25 grams in an open bowl. Oh, yes, glycerine you can get at any pharmacy and
you need an adult signature for the acids. Any bump can make Nitro go off if
you don't add the bicarbonate of (baking) soda--but even with that, if it gets
old I wouldn't play catch with it.
Addendum 4/12/91: Freezing it will make it less sensitive to shock.
Once you have made the Nitro and saturated it with Bicarb. you can make a
really powerful explosive that won't go off by itself by simply mixing it with
as much cotton as you can and then saturating that with molten (but as cool as
possible, of course) parifine--just enough to make it sealed and hard.
Typically, use the same amounts (by weight) of each Nitro, cotton and
paraffin. This, when wrapped in newspaper, was once known as "Norbin &
Ohlsson's Patent Dynamite," but that was back in 1896.
Improvised Explosives
Gelatine Explosive from Anti-Freeze Written by: The Lich
This explosive is almost the same as the nitro-gelatin plastique explosive
exept that it is supple and pliable to -10 to -20 deg. C
Antifreeze is easier to obtain than glycerine and is usually cheaper. It
needs to be freed of water before the manufacture and this can be done by
treating it with calcium chlor- ide until a specific gravity of 1.12 @ o deg.
C. or 1.11 @ 20 deg. C. is obtained.
This can be done by adding calcium chloride to the antifreeze and checking
with a hydrometer and continue to add calcium chloride until the proper
reading is obtained. The antifreeze is then filtered to remove the calcium
chloride from the liquid. This explosive is superior to nitro-gelatin in that
it is easier to collidon the IMR smokeless powder into the explosive and that
the 50/50 ether ethyl alcohol can be done away with. It is superior in that
the formation of the collidon is done very rapidly by the nitroethelene
glycol.
It's detonation properties are practically the same as the nitro-gelatine.
Like the nitro-gelatine it is highly flammable and if caught on fire the
chances are good that the flame will progress to detonation. In this
explosive as in nitro-gelatine the addition of 1% sodium carbonate is a good
idea to reduce the chance of recidual acid being present in the final
explosive. The following is a slightly different formula than nitro-gelatine:
Nitro-glycol 75% Guncotton (IMR) 6% Potassium Nitrate 14% Flour 5%
In this process the 50/50 step is omitted. Mix the potassium nitrate with
the nitro-glycol. Remember that this nitro-glycol is just as sensitive to
shock as is nitroglycerin.
The next step is to mix in the baking flour and sodium carbonate. Mix
these by kneading with gloved hands until the mixture is uniform. This
kneading should be done gently and slowly. The mixture should be uniform when
the IMR smokeless powder is added. Again this is kneaded to uniformity. Use
this explosive as soon as possible.
If it must be stored, store in a cool, dry place (0-10 deg. C.). This
explosive should detonate at 7600-7800 m/sec.. These two explosives are very
powerful and should be sensitive to a #6 blasting cap or equivelent.
These explosives are dangerous and should not be made unless the
manufacturer has had experience with this type compound. The foolish and
ignorant may as well forget these explosives as they won't live to get to use
them.
Don't get me wrong, these explosives have been manufactured for years with
an amazing record of safety. Millions of tons of nitroglycerine have been
made and used to manufacture dynamite and explosives of this nature with very
few mis haps.
Nitroglycerin and nitroglycol will kill and their main victims are the
stupid and foolhardy. Before manufacturing these explosives take a drop of
nitroglycerin and soak into a small piece of filter paper and place it on an
anvil.
Hit this drop with a hammer and don't put any more on the anvil. See what I
mean! This explosive compound is not to be taken lightly. If there are any
doubts DON'T.
Improvised Explosives Plastique Explosive from Aspirin by: The Lich
This explosive is a phenol dirivative. It is toxic and explosive compounds
made from picric acid are poisonous if inhaled, ingested, or handled and
absor- bed through the skin. The toxicity of this explosive restrict's its
use due to the fact that over exposure in most cases causes liver and kidney
failure and sometimes death if immediate treatment is not obtained.
This explosive is a cousin to T.N.T. but is more powerful than it's cousin.
It is the first explosive used militarily and was adopted in 1888 as an
artillery shell filler. Originally this explosive was derived from coal tar
but thanks to modern chemistry you can make this explosive easily in
approximately three hours from acetylsalicylic acid (aspirin purified).
This procedure involves dissolving the acetylsalicylic acid in warm sulfuric
acid and adding sodium or potassium nitrate which nitrates the purified
aspirin and the whole mixture drowned in water and filtered to obtain the
final product. This explosive is called trinitrophenol. Care should be
taken to ensure that this explosive is stored in glass containers. Picric
acid will form dangerous salts when allowed to contact all metals exept tin
and aluminum. These salts are primary explosive and are super sensitive.
They also will cause the detonation of the picric acid.
To make picric acid obtain some aspirin. The cheaper brands work best but
buffered brands should be avoided. Powder these tablets to a fine
consistancy. To extract the acetylsalicylic acid from this powder place this
powder in methyl alcohol and stir vigorously. Not all of the powder will
dissolve. Filter this powder out of the alcohol. Again wash this powder that
was filtered out of the alcohol with more alcohol but with a lesser amount
than the first extrac- tion. Again filter the remaining powder out of the
alcohol. Combine the now clear alcohol and allow it to evaporate in a pyrex
dish. When the alcohol has evaporated there will be a surprising amount of
crystals in the bottom of the pyrex dish.
Take fourty grams of these purified acetylsalicylic acid crystals and
dissolve them in 150 ml. of sulfuric acid (98%, specify gravity 1.8) and heat
to diss- olve all the crystals. This heating can be done in a common electric
frying pan with the thermostat set on 150 deg. F. and filled with a good
cooking oil.
When all the crystals have dissolved in the sulfuric acid take the beaker,
that you've done all this dissolving in (600 ml.), out of the oil bath. This
next step will need to be done with a very good ventilation system (it is a
good idea to do any chemistry work such as the whole procedure and any
procedure on this disk with good ventilation or outside). Slowly start adding
58 g. of sodium nitrate or 77 g. of potassium nitrate to te acid mixture in
the beaker very slowly in small portions with vigorous stirring. A red gas
(nitrogen tri- oxide) will be formed and this should be avoided.
The mixture is likely to foam up and the addition should be stopped until
the foaming goes down to prevent the overflow of the acid mixture in the
beaker. When the sodium or potassium nitrate has been added the mixture is
allowed to cool somewhat (30- 40 deg. C.). The solution should then be dumped
slowly into twice it's volume of crushed ice and water. The brilliant yellow
crystals will form in the water. These should be filtered out and placed in
200 ml. of boiling distilled water. This water is allowed to cool and then
the crystals are then filtered out of the water. These crystals are a very,
very pure trinitrophenol. These crystals are then placed in a pyrex dish and
places in an oil bath and heated to 80 deg. C. and held there for 2 hours.
This temperature is best maintained and checked with a thermometer.
The crystals are then powdered in small quantities to a face powder
consistency. These powdered crystals are then mixed with 10% by weight wax
and 5% vaseline which are heated to melting temperature and poured into the
crystals. The mixing is best done by kneading together with gloved hands.
This explosive should have a useful plsticity range of 0-40 deg. C.. The
detonation velocity should be around 7000 m/sec.. It is toxic to handle but
simply made from common ingredients and is suitable for most demolition work
requiring a moderately high detonation velocity. It is very suitable for
shaped charges and some steel cutting charges. It is not as good an explosive
as C-4 or other R.D.X. based explosives but it is much easier to make. Again
this explosive is very toxic and should be treated with great care.
AVOID HANDLING BARE-HANDED, BREATHING DUST AND FUMES, AVOID ANY CHANCE OF
INGESTION. AFTER UTENSILS ARE USED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF THIS EXPLOSIVE
RETIRE THEM FROM THE KITCHEN AS THE CHANCE OF POISONING IS NOT WORTH THE RISK.
THIS EXPLOSIVE, IF MANUFACTURED AS ABOVE, AHOULD BE SAFE IN STORAGE BUT WITH
ANY HOMEMADE EXPLOSIVE STORAGE OS NOT RECOMENDED AND EXPLOSIVES SHOULD BE MADE
UP AS NEEDED.
Improvised Explosives Plastique Explosive from Bleach by: The Lich
This explosive is a potassium chlorate explosive. This explosive and explo-
sives of similar composition were used in World War II as the main explosive
filler in gernades, land mines, and mortar used by French, German, and other
forces involoved in that conflict. These explosives are relatively safe to
manufacture.
One should strive to make sure these explosives are free of sulfur,
sulfides, and picric acid. The presence of these compounds result in mixtures
that are or can become highly sensitive and possibly decompose ex- plosively
while in storage. The manufacture of this explosive from bleach is given as
just an expediant method. This method of manufacturing potassium chlorate is
not economical due to the amount of energy used to boil the solution and
cause the 'dissociation' reaction to take place. This procedure does work and
yields a relatively pure and a sulfur/sulfide free product. These explosives
are very cap sensitive and require only a #3 cap for instigating detonation.
To manufacture potassium chlorate from bleach (5.25% sodium hypochlorite
solution) obtain a heat source (hot plate etc.) a battery hydrometer, a large
pyrex or enameled steel container (to weigh chemicals), and some potassium
chloride (sold as salt substitute). Take one gallon of bleach, place it in
the container and begin heating it. While this solution heats, weigh out 63
g. potassium chloride and add this to the bleach being heated. Bring this
solution to a boil and boiled until when checked by a hydrometer the reading
is 1.3 (if a battery hydrometer is used it should read full charge).
When the reading is 1.3 take the solution and let it cool in the refrigerator
until it's between room temperature and 0 deg. C.. Filter out the crystals
that have formed and save them. Boil the solution again until it reads 1.3 on
the hydrometer and again cool the solution. Filter out the crystals that have
formed and save them. Boil this solution again and cool as before.
Filter and save the crystals. Take these crystals that have been saved and
mix them with distilled water in the following proportions: 56 g. per 100 ml.
distilled water. Heat this solution until it boils and allow it to cool.
Filter the solution and save the crystals that form upon cooling. The process
if purifi- cation is called fractional crystalization. These crystals should
be relatively pure potassium chlorate.
Powder these to the consistency of face powder (400 mesh) and heat gently to
drive off all moisture. Melt five parts vasoline and five parts wax.
Dissolve this in white gasoline (camp stove gasoline) and pour this liquid on
90 parts potassium chlorate (the crystals from the above operation) in a
plastic bowl. Knead this liquid into the potassium chlorate until immediately
mixed. Allow all the gasoline to evaporate. Place this explosive in a cool,
dry place. Avoid friction, sulfur, sulfide, and phosphorous compounds.
This explosive is best molded to the desired shape and density (1.3g./cc.)
and dipped in wax to water proof. These block type charges guarantee the
highest detonation velocity. This explosive is really not suited to use in
shaped charge applications due to its relatively low detonation velocity. It
is comparable to 40% ammonia dynamite and can be considered the same for the
sake of charge computation.
If the potassium chlorate is bought and not made it is put into the
manufacture pro- cess in the powdering stages preceding the addition of the
wax/vaseline mix- ture. This explosive is bristant and powerful. The
addition of 2-3% aluminum powder increases its blast effect. Detonation
velocity is 3300 m/sec..
Plastique Explosives From Swimming Pool Clorinating Compound By the Lich
This explosive is a chlorate explosive from bleach. This method of
production of potassium or sodium chlorate is easier and yields a more pure
product than does the plastique explosive from bleach process.
In this reaction the H.T.H. (calcium hypochlorite CaC10) is mixed with water
and heated with either sodium chloride (table salt, rock salt) or potassium
chloride (salt substitute). The latter of these salts is the salt of choice
due to the easy crystalization of the potassium chlorate.
This mixture will need to be boiled to ensure complete reaction of the
ingredients. Obtain some H.T.H. swimming pool chlorination compound or
equivilant (usually 65% calcium hypochlorite). As with the bleach process
mentioned earlier the reaction described below is also a dissociation
reaction. In a large pyrex glass or enamled steel container place 1200g.
H.T.H. and 220g. potassium chloride or 159g. sodium chloride. Add enough
boiling water to dissolve the powder and boil this solution. A chalky
substance (calcium chloride) will be formed. When the formation of this
chalky substance is no longer formed the solution is filtered while boiling
hot. If potassium chloride was used potassium chlorate will be formed.
This potassium chlorate will drop out or crystalize as the clear liquid left
after filtering cools. These crystals are filtered out when the solution
reaches room temperature. If the sodium chloride salt was used this clear
filtrate (clear liquid after filter- ation) will need to have all water
evaporated. This will leave crystals which should be saved.
These crystals should be heated in a slightly warm oven in a pyrex dish to
drive off all traces of water (40-75 deg. C.). These crystals are ground to a
very fine powder (400 mesh).
If the sodium chloride salt is used in the initial step the crystalization is
much more time consuming. The potassium chloride is the salt to use as the
resulting product will crystalize out of the solution as it cools. The
powdered and completely dry chlorate crystals are kneaded together with
vaseline in a plastic bowl. ALL CHLORATE BASED EXPLOSIVES ARE SENSITIVE TO
FRICTION AND SHOCK AND THESE SHOULD BE AVOIDED. If sodium chloride is used in
this explosive it will have a tendancy to cake and has a slightly lower
detonation velocity.
This explosive is composed of the following:
potassium/sodium chlorate 90%
vaseline 10%
Simply pour the powder into a plastic baggy and knead in the vaseline
carefully. this explosive (especially if the Sodium Chlorate variation is
used) should not be exposed to water or moisture.
The detonation velocity can be raised to a slight extent by the addition of
2-3% aluminum sunstituted for 2-3% of the vaseline. This addition of this
aluminum will give the explosive a bright flash if set off at night which will
ruin night vision for a short while. The detonation velocity of this
explosive is approximately 3200 m/sec. for the potassium salt and 2900 m/sec.
for the sodium salt based explosive.
Addendum 4/12/91:
It was claimed above that this explosive degrades over time. I would assume
that this occurs due to the small amount of water present in the vaseline, and
that a different type of fuel would be better than the vaseline.
Revenge: Don't get mad - Get even By George Hayduke
subtitled: Fun Things To Do Written by The Ghost
SPEED DEMON 415/522-3074 24 HOURS
This is from a book by George Hayduke. It describes a variety of ways to
get back at people who cause you distress. The book has contains a lot of
tips on causing expensive damage to "marks". Well, I picked the good ones.
Ones that don't cause a lot of expense, in currency that is. Well, I hope you
enjoy. Get back at the losers using the system. Sort of like piracy and
phreaking.
In a car with automatic transmission, switch the #1 and #8 wires on the
distributer cap. This will allegedly allow the car to operate in Neutral and
Park, but the engine mysteriously dies in Drive.
Castor Oil squirted into the tailpipe of a car, will cause a large amount of
smoke. Just the thing to help nervous drivers.
If you can get a bank account number for a person, truly wonderful things
can happen. Depositing one penny every day can get the employees very pissed.
It happens that given a few hundred wanted posters, one will look like you.
OR anybody else you can imagine. Close anyway. Think of all the bounty
hunters just waiting to claim their reward.
Place an ad in a paper for Male Secretarys only. $11 an hour, must be
physically attractive, gentle, and other related social traits. This is for
anybody who has an office. Give the time to show up one half hour before the
normal opening hour. For example, if the office opens at 9:00, put the time
to be 8:30. All these faggots will show up and start bitching at each other
and your loser.
Run an ad in the local paper with the following message.
"I need all used christmas trees. Please leave them on my lawn, and I'll pay
$5 for each one." then leave the losers address. The paper will take your $
and print the ad without thinking.
If you know the guy is going to throw a party, arrange for him to find out
that somebody was going to crash his party, dressed up like cops. Then call
the cops telling them of a real rowdy party going on.
If your college uses computers to handle admissions, try this. Fill out
course withdrawl forms in the losers name. Then enter them, they probably
won't check. The guy will go the entire block unknowing, then when grades are
posted. "Where are mine?" "Why didn't I get grades?"
Call your colleges administration, tell them you are the undertaker of your
losers hometown. He just died, please take him off your records, records will
follow. Then call the parents. He just died in a fraternity accident. This
will work better if the guy decides to skip a week or so of classes.
Instead of credit card fraud, just call up the company and tell them that
you just lost your cards. You name? Why it's (insert loser)
If you want, advertise the losers phone number as a Dial A Joke. For
bigots, Dial A Black, etc.
If you dislike a fast food place with a drive thru, try this. Order
everything you can think of. Then just don't go to the window. Do it during
dinner hours. Or, order a normal sized meal, but with extra helpings of
mustard. Then the next car will try the food, then freak out at the joint.
Garage door openers often have dip switches that can be changed to other
combinations. The cheaper the model, the better. Sears sells just the unit.
Say you broke yours or something. Then change the settings.
Wax crayons tossed into a wash do wonders to whites or anything else.
There is a whole section of phun things to do with a phone. Call in a bomb
threat to a school or something, then leave the handset offhook. Of course,
do this only at the losers house. Someone will visit.
Ads placed in papers saying that (insert loser) will sell YOU! the plans
to a device enabling inexpensive calls. Mention that you keep no records. If
you are getting back at somebody with a multi-line system, this is good.
If you can get a private minute with your marks phone, and the handset is
modular, cover the handset plug with clear nail polish. The phone rings, then
its unlimited "Hello?" "Hello?"
Remove the pins from all but one of the hinges of a front door of a
business. The door will work fine, for a while, then fall off. People start
screaming.
Add luminescent paint into the cans of someone who is painting their fence.
Then, at night, it glows.
Get some copper paint and paint a small line across the insulator of a
spark plug in a car. They'll never find it.
If your loser gets a parking ticket, get it before he sees it. Then get a
stamp flicking the cops off. Send it in with no money.
If you dislike a pet hater, here's one. Advertise that you(the loser)
would like to buy all unwanted strays. $10 for each one. Then call the SPCA,
telling them that the loser wants the animals to conduct black masses and
pagan rites.
Laxatives slipped into dogfood does wonders.
Or better yet, toss some normal meat into the dog-owners yard. Then call
him up(in a disguised voice) and tell him you saw a suspicious person hanging
around the yard....
Mail a letter to the Chief Executive detailing the sexual acts you would
like to commit, the Secret Service investigates this with no humor.
PA systems in department stores are great. Just walk up to a deserted unit,
look around, then deliver the most disgusting statement you can think of.
Call about thirty people, telling them they just won a sweepstakes. Answer
the questions, no obligation, it's just to show how generous people are. Then
give the losers phone number to call for more info.
Remember two things, hot metal and hot glass do not look different from
cool. (as long as it's not too hot)
Western Telegram has a check on everything going through. Certain key
words trip alarms. Guns, Drugs, Sex, Terrorist, etc all ring bells. Have fun
There are many ways to thrash someones car. But they basicly fall under 2
topics. These are, 1 to just fuck it up and 2, to distroy it. As long as
your at it don't for get to steal the stero & speakers.
Sweet-Gas
This involves taking the gas cap off of you victims car. If it is a locking
cap break it off. Or you might pry it off. Once you have the gas cap off
pour 4 or 5 pounds of white sugar in there gas tank. Now when the start there
car up and drive away they will go about 2 miles or so then the car will crap
out and they will have to pay some