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DESTINATIONS: The South Shore -- Bay of Fundy, Nova Scotia 
from Jan/Feb 1994 issue of Wave~Length

Scott Cunningham of Coastal Adventures, based in 
Tangier, Nova Scotia, Canada has now produced the 
second volume of his paddling route guide for Nova 
Scotia covering The South Shore and the Bay of 
Fundy.

The South Shore of Nova Scotia extends southwest 
from Halifax around to Yarmouth where it gradually 
blends into the Bay of Fundy. From headland to 
headland it stretches a distance of about 325 km 
but, as with the Eastern Shore, inclusion of all the 
harbours and inlets would inflate this figure 
several fold. This is a young submerged coastline, 
highly irregular, with drowned estuaries and 
headlands producing a largely indented coast, 
fringed with islands. This feature, couple with 
localized sediments has contributed to a large 
number of habitats: sand and cobble beaches, mud 
flats and salt marshes. The predominant feature, 
however, is the rocky shore. The most remarkable 
feature, of course, is the extreme tidal range of 
the Bay of Fundy. The Bay is a funnel shaped tongue 
of ocean separating Nova Scotia from New Brunswick 
stretching over 200 km from its mouth in the Gulf of 
Maine to its upper reaches. The special nature of 
the Bay of Fundy follows from its extreme tides. 
These range from about 20 feet at the entrance to a 
record of 58 feet at Burntcoat Head, in the Minas 
Basin. 

The province's South Shore has a great deal to offer 
the coastal paddler. It is unspoiled, easily 
accessible, and you can put in almost anywhere. 
Camping on the islands isn't a problem. Services 
(gas stations, grocery stores, and accommodation) 
are available in the numerous towns and villages, 
and tourists are welcome. If the weather is poor you 
can still find sheltered groups of islands for your 
trip or head inland to Kejimekujik National Park. If 
the weather is good, your options along the coast 
are limitless. 

(excerpted from the guidebook)

Coastal Paddling Routes in Nova Scotia: the South 
Shore and the Bay of Fundy (8.5 x 11 fomat, cerlox 
bound, 106 pages) is available from Scott 
Cunningham, Coastal Adventures, PO Box 77, Tangier, 
N.S. B0J 3H0 or calling (902) 772-2774. 


DESTINATIONS: Doubtful Explorations -- New Zealand
by Scott Melzer 
from Jan/Feb 1994 issue of Wave~Length

Riding in the back seat of a double cab truck with 
four kayaks on the roof and bouncing over the 
roughest road in the world with snow falling all 
around us, I wonder how I have gotten myself into 
this mess.

My new fibreglass kayak is riding atop three plastic 
boats above us on the roof rack. The driver who is 
transporting us across the Wilmot Pass to Doubtful 
Sound doesn't give a damn about them and the ropes 
are getting looser and looser. I finally demand that 
he stop and let us adjust the ropes.

Getting out of the truck, I glance down through 
falling snow to Doubtful Sound, 2200 feet below. All 
doubt is banished as I see just pure beauty of the 
most natural kind.

This is Fiordland National Park, the southwestern 
part of New Zealand's south island. Fiordland is one 
of the most remote places in the world. This area is 
impressive, with overpoweringly steep mountains and 
narrow valleys. For the last million years this 
region has been subjected to intense glaciation. The 
present result is almost sheer vertical walls rising 
from sea level to around 3000- 4000 feet.

This midwinter trip is a fact-finding mission. 
Although we have heard that the weather is best at 
this time of year, we expect little sun. Because the 
sun at its highest point midday during the winter 
solstice (late June) is only 21 degrees from the horizon, 
and due to the height of the mountains and the 
narrow valleys, at least half of Fiordland receives 
no direct sunlight during winter.

Nevertheless, four of us are tempting the frost 
monsters, and already, on our first day, we have 
verified Fiordland's reputation of quick changing 
weather with wind, hail, sun and rain, making us 
feel very small. We quickly learn why some of the 
surrounding areas are called Refrigerator Valley and 
Hurricane Passage. 

Arriving at Deep Cove at the head of Doubtful Sound 
the wind is so strong we can hardly stand. After 
unloading the kayaks and gear we search for an 
answer to our first problem. It is too windy to 
paddle and there is nowhere to stay or camp in Deep 
Cove. Camping in the Sound is generally difficult as 
flat ground is rare.

We are lucky to hitch a ride onboard the Seaspray (a 
cray fishing boat) that takes us out Doubtful Sound 
towards Secretary Island where there is a forestry 
hut we can stay in. We spend four days at the hut 
with short kayak trips in between lightning, 
thunder, gales and hail storms.

The weather finally clears and we set off to explore 
some of the arms of the Sound where we meet up with 
dolphins, seals, and many different types of birds. 
On our last day, at the head of Crooked Arm, we 
awake to the most wonderful morning of the trip. It 
is clear and very cold with frost on everything 
including our wetsuits, which require a bit of 
courage to put on. 

Packing up and heading back to Deep Cove, we 
encounter a very unnerving occurrence. Doubtful 
Sound gets around 300 inches of rain a year which 
produces hundreds of beautiful waterfalls and 10 to 
15 feet of fresh water on top of saltwater at the 
heads of the arms. The combination of fresh water 
(which is lighter and freezes at a lower temperature 
than salt) and the flat calm have created a 
continuous sheet of ice 2 mm thick, shore to shore, 
and about 4 to 5 kilometres long. We have no choice 
but to paddle through it. Although extra work is 
needed, we encounter no real problems, just our 
fears of what could have happen if the ice had been 
any thicker. 

All in all, our twelve day trip went relatively 
smoothly. Given the remoteness and remarkable beauty 
of the area I consider Fiordland National Park a 
premier sea kayaking destination. I plan to return, 
armed with the experience gained and knowing that no 
amount of preplanning can take into account all of 
mother nature's little surprises. 

For information about Fiordland National Park 
contact: Scott Melzer, c/o Te Hoiere Sea Kayaks, Box 
33, Havelock, Marlborough Sounds, New Zealand. Ph: 
035742610. Fax: 035742333 Or the Department of 
Conservation , PO Box 29, Te Anau, New Zealand. 
Ph: 032497921