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Anarchy 2005 Presents:
The Poor Man's
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| | (_,_'_) ** ** ** ** * ** ( |
| | |o o o|,-. ** ** ** ** ** ____/
| | _ | o o ( o ) ******* ******* **
| |##0 |o o o`_~` ****** ****** **
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| | /___ / ). | __ `. | __ `. .` _ `.
| | / / (__)| | `\ \ | | `\ \ / /` `\ \
| | / / | || | ) )| | ) )( ( ) )
| | / /___| || | __/ / | | __/ / \ \___/ /
| | /__________|| ||___.` | ||___.` `._____.`
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By The Anarchy 2005 Team,
Nov. 2004
File #1
Welcome to the first installment of The Anarchy 2005 Files. Even though it is 2004, I've
decided to write quite a few files starting now. This specific file was written in notepad
under full-screen mode. So if you are viewing this file in notepad, then maximize the program.
Just because it worked for us, does NOT mean it will work for you. We know what we are
doing, we have what you call experience, and one of us is what you call a professional. The
experienced amateur may safely carry this out with further research; but is not a fully
amateur project. The payoff for this project is only that of mind satisfaction that you know
how to make a really super-cool 007 style boobytrap. Explosion wise, you can get much more of
a bang with other stuff.
If there is one thing that the "anarchist" files are really missing, it's a good
reliable text file on how to make a "Poor Man's James Bond" hand grenade, or clandestine
handheld boobytrap. There once was a text file I found somewhere on how to make a Zippo
grenade, it was a rather poor piece of research, not very well written, and not thought
through very well. I had one question on my mind: How could you make an absolutely devastating
bomb using a Zippo as the explosive casing?
After talking about this with some friends, we decided to test it. We found a bunch of
old Zippo lighters in our workbench (huge collection of lighters we have). Some of them were
in alright condition, two were in bad condition, one was in perfect condition. The bad ones we
decided to fix up. So we replaced many of the springs, threw away non essential parts, etc.
Our first test was just a firecracker tryout; we wanted to see basic effects, and work
from there. We took the cotton and wick out of the lighter, and put a green cannon fuse in
place of the wick. We then filled the empty metal container area (which previously was stuffed
with cotton) with black powder. One of my friends suggested we use flash powder, which was a
valid suggestion. I pointed out, however, that you cannot use flash powder for this explosive
because the casing is metal, and lots of friction is caused; thus it would be unsafe to put
together. Black powder is friction sensitive, but is safe as long as you are careful. So,
flash powder may not be used for this, it is a huge risk.
The tryout failed; after lighting the fuse, the black powder ignited, creating a
rocket effect. Also, the lighter came out of the flip container more than half way. Because of
this, it was obvious that if we used a faster burning black powder, the lighter would simply
just rocket out of the metal flip container, it was then our conclusion that an actual
explosive must be used to get this to work.
Now that we had basics out of the way, we could logically figure out what we needed
to do. Since I am the explosives expert for this experiment, I thought about the best way to
do it. The goal in my mind is to blow someone's hand off, while also not having to work hard
to do it. So, acetone peroxide came to mind: No way would I use it as a primary explosive, it
is way too sensitive. However, it can be used as a booster charge for something bigger, like
say TNP.
You will need to make acetone peroxide, which is highly unstable. For this, you will
only need to make very small amounts that are easy and mostly safe to deal with. The goal here
is to get enough acetone peroxide to fit inside of a normal pill capsule. For this bomb, you
will be using a pill capsule as a miniature firecracker to make the bigger explosive
surrounding it blow up. So, how to make acetone peroxide:
Materials:
3% Hydrogen Peroxide (can be bought at any pharmacy or grocery store)
Sulfuric Acid (Liquid Fire Drain Opener found at the hardware store, red bottle)
Acetone (found at the hardware store in the paint section, do not use nail polish remover)
Glass Beaker (Pyrex glass dish, do not use plastic)
Thermometer (should be glass, must go down to 40 ?F)
Glass Eyedropper (Store, anywhere)
Procedure:
Create an ice bath for the glass beaker. It is best to freeze ice around the glass
beaker in a bucket. Chill the acetone in the freezer, it must be cold. Now measure out 500ml
hydrogen peroxide, and slowly boil it at water boiling temperature down to at least 250mL
(60mL would be best, but you don't want to boil it down too far or your hydrogen peroxide will
be too pure, and too dangerous) Let the boiled down hydrogen peroxide cool in the fridge for
a few hours, or let it chill in the freezer (it is best to not let it freeze).
Put the hydrogen peroxide in the beaker with the ice bath, and add 60mL of acetone.
Measure the temperature until it reaches 50 ?F (10 ?C). Doing the reaction over 50 ?F (10 ?C)
will result in production of the wrong explosive; a much more dangerous explosive that you do
not want. Once the temperature reaches about 40 ?F (4 ?C), you can begin adding the sulfuric
acid. Measure out 15mL of sulfuric acid, and add the acid to the acetone/hydrogen peroxide
mixture slowly with the glass eyedropper. While doing this, do not allow the temperature to
get near 50 ?F (10 ?C). If the temperature begins to rise near 50 ?F (10 ?C), quit adding the
sulfuric acid, and wait for the temperature to drop again; do this until you are done adding
all the acid. When you are done, stir a bit, and let the reaction sit for about 15 minutes.
Take the beaker out of the ice bath, and place in the fridge for at least 24 hours. The liquid
will form crystals that can then be filtered out using a coffee filter. After it is filtered
out, pour 400mL of water over the filtered powder to wash the acid off. Let the powder dry,
this is Acetone Peroxide.
Be very careful with this stuff, it is extremely sensitive. If you ignored the specific
instructions when it comes to temperature, you will have made dicycloacetone peroxide; which
is touch sensitive.
You now need to make a small firecracker from the acetone peroxide. You want to do this
as safely as possible, since acetone peroxide is very friction sensitive. The best procedure
here is to empty a pill capsule, and scoop acetone peroxide into it. That way the capsule is
like a firecracker. To do this, first take the wick out of the Zippo lighter. If it is a new
lighter, use the lighter about thirty or fourty times, that way the wick looks black and used.
Mix a little bit of water with some black powder (Pyrodex is good) until it has a paste feel,
then soak and rub the paste into the wick. Strain the wick, and let it dry in the sun. Now
you must poke a small hole in a pill capsule big enough to fit the wick in. You can easily do
this wtih an exacto knife. When the wick is done drying, put one end inside the hole of the
pill.
Now scoop acetone peroxide into both ends of the pill, and very carefully fit them
together. Clean all of the acetone peroxide off of the pill's surface (do not use water, water
dissolves the pill). Then take some super glue (only super glue, you must use a very fast
drying glue), and drip small bits of it on the pill. Do not add a whole bunch at once, because
the super glue will eat the pill, and the more super glue you use, the longer it takes to dry.
So, drip it slowly, that way it dries quickly and does not cause any deterioration of the pill.
This will seal it very well, making the explosion just that much bigger.
Put the other end of the wick through the Zippo's wick hole, and you now have a firecracker
inside of a Zippo. If you were to spin the spark-wheel and light it now, the lighter would
most likely make a giant bang sound with no harm done (but test it before you prank, acetone
peroxide is unpredictable in all circumstances).
,--------,
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| | _____
| | |o o o|,-.
| | _ | o o ( o )
| |##0 |o o o|*_`
`--------O--#-'-----'II--.
| | || |
| | || |
| /^\ || |
| | | || | Tube to the right is the flint tube, the center thing is
| |_| || | Acetone Peroxide firecracker.
| || |
| == |
`---------------'
Now that we have the booster charge set up, we need a primary explosive... The one that
will take off a hand. TNP (aka Trinitrophenol, Picric Acid) is probably the best first choice
since it is pretty easy to make out of common chemicals. Other primary explosives can be
used, such as C-4 or Plastique. If using C-4 or Plastique, more effort must be put
into the blasting cap, since more explosive impact is required to make C-4 or plastique
explode.
Materials:
Sulfuric Acid (Liquid Fire Drain Opener works)
Potassium Nitrate (Stump Remover found at hardware stores, Salt Petre at pharmacies)
20 Aspirin Tablets, each with 500mg (or 62 tablets with 325mg)
Acetone
Cold Distilled Water
Glass Beaker
Procedure:
First, crush up your aspirin tablets into a powder. Heat 200mL of acetone at 104 ?F
(40 ?C) in the glass beaker. When the acetone is hot, add the crushed aspirin powder to the
hot acetone, and stir it until it is all dissolved. Filter this solution with a coffee filter,
throw away the coffee filter and it's contents, keep the liquid. Evaporate the liquid, and
you will have about 20 grams of Acetylsalicylic Acid (ASA). If you have two days to spare, you
can let the liquid evaporate in the beaker.
Once you have dry ASA, powder it in a mortar and pestel. Put 150mL sulfuric acid into an 800mL
beaker, and add the dry ASA to it until it is all dissolved. If the ASA does not completely
dissolve, heat the mixture lightly and stir to get it to dissolve.
This next step can be kindof scary, but if you take special precaution, you won't have any
trouble. Put on some chemical resistant gloves, face mask, and goggles. You must do this step
outside, because deadly red nitrogen dioxide gas will be formed. Add 20 grams of potassium
nitrate over the course of 10-15 minutes evenly, stir with a glass stir bar. When the solution
begins to bubble, or the red gas begins to form, slow down the addition of potassium nitrate.
When you're done adding the potassium nitrate, let the solution return to room temperature.
Stir for a few minutes, then put the solution somewhere cold (just above freezing) for a few
hours. Most of the picric acid will settle to the bottom. Now filter it with coffee filters,
and discard the liquid. The yellowish solid left in the coffee filter(s) is the Picric Acid.
Now you need to purify it to remove the acid from it.
Heat up 250mL of water in a beaker. When it starts to boil, take it off of the heat source,
and stir in the picric acid crystals. Stir this for about 3-5 minutes until completely
dissolved. Filter this solution while it's still hot (within 5 minutes of the addition of
the picric acid). Now put the solution in the fridge for a few hours. Now filter out the
formed picric acid crystals.
Picric acid is relatively safe to deal with, but it is recommended that you
pre-package it in a cellophane cigarette wrapper before putting it inside the lighter. The
reason for this is that the TNP might react with the metal of the lighter, and explode. So it
is better to wrap it in plastic, that way it will not have contact with the metal. When you
place the TNP charge inside the Zippo, you must make sure that the acetone peroxide pill
firecracker is in the center of the TNP charge, that way the acetone peroxide will no doubt
make the TNP explode. Basically, it should look like a small brick-like firecracker with a
black fuse coming out of it. We found that using box-like bubble gum packets for charge forms
was useful. Before placing it inside the Zippo, it might be a good idea to seal some of the
lighter cracks with super glue. Just make sure not to super glue the spark-wheel. Now slip
the fuse/wick through the Zippo's wick hole, and secure the charge in place. Pack it as much
as you feel safe doing; just remember that this stuff can be pressure sensitive.
When everything is packed inside the lighter, you may add super glue on top of it,
that way it seals properly. We used JB-Weld to seal the bottom completely, that way there
would be no rocket effect. The idea is to make sure that everything is as stuck as possible.
In this case, the JB-Weld seal makes sure that the explosive actually makes the metal shatter
outward, instead of just separating from the casing. After examination, we decided that the
explosive mechanism was complete, and we were ready to put the mechanism inside the metal
Zippo casing. We decided that it would be better to coat the inside of the metal Zippos
casing, that way the Zippo lighter/explosive mechanism would actually get stuck inside, thus
further preventing a rocket explosion reaction.
If you have gone this far, you are completely done with the boobytrap/grenade
(Grenade only if you trust yourself). For our first tests, we converted two lighters into
bombs, the only difference in the procedure is that we used a longer wick/fuse, that way we
could light it and run. Both tests were a complete success, both producing a rather large bang
(comparable to a respectable shotgun blast). After video examination, we determined that when
the wick reached what would be the starting point for a boobytrap (short fuse that resembles a
normal wick to the unsuspecting), it took an average of 2.5 seconds (our safe-time estimation)
for the Zippo to explode. With this in mind, we did an actual test.
We converted two more Zippo's into actual boobytraps (short fuse that resembles a
wick). The first test was a success: We spun the spark-wheel (and ran away very fast), it
flickered with sparks, and then blew up a few seconds later. The cool thing about this is that
the prolonged sparkling effect is not uncommon for Zippos, alot of people have seen average
flints and wicks sparkle for more than two seconds. The second test was also a success, but
this time it was much more dangerous. Our lab rat held the Zippo in his hand (stupid, yes, but
we had survivalism on our minds), spun the spark-wheel, and threw it immediatly. No problems
resulted.
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/ `-._____.-' \ Anarchy 2005 Team