💾 Archived View for spam.works › mirrors › textfiles › law › anarchy.ripco captured on 2023-06-16 at 18:54:08.
View Raw
More Information
-=-=-=-=-=-=-
165
[Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit]
[ -------------------------------------------------------------------------- ]
[ - The Dark Side (312) - 787 - 2174 / Exilic Xyth - Sysop / 24 hours 9600 - ]
[ -------------------------------------------------------------------------- ]
[ - The Modern Speeders Guide to Radar and State Troopers - ]
[ - By : Exilic Xyth - ]
[ - January 11, 1988 - ]
[ -------------------------------------------------------------------------- ]
Introduction:
Touched off by the discussion on Ripco <312>-528-5020, I
found many users asking questions about police radar, radar detectors, and
speeding. With Ron Majors talking about the oil spill that will appear in
detail on the news at ten I thought a informative file on the subject might
be beneficial. I myself had my first experience with police radar in my
fathers car, then following in baseball and my own driving, much more on the
subject. What a fascinating device, that it will return your speed instantly,
what fun one would be to have! After a quick talk with a police friend of
mine, I soon took possession of a used police radar gun.
Part one: Operation.
Police Radar works via the doppler effect, best
demonstrated by sound rather than microwaves. The doppler effect is the
relation of speed to the pitch of 'sound'. Sometime, all of you must have
had the distinct pleasure of being honked at by a motorist on the go,
you might have noticed that the horn <an F flat on most american cars>
begins with a higher pitch and as the car passes, drowns off to a lower
tone. The sound waves at the front of the car are pressed together by the
forward motion of the car, creating a higher pitch. As the car passes,
the tone dies off to a lower pitch because the waves are spread out.
Police radar works in much the same way. The major differences are the
frequency and the concentration of the carrier.
As of 1988, the F.C.C. is rumored to have lifted restrictions
on police radar frequencies. Before, only two frequencies were approved for
police radar use. X-band <10.525 GHz> which is most commonly used, and
K-band <24.15 Ghz>. I will assume for now, due to lack of any SOLID evidence
supporting the restriction lift, that those are the only two in operation.
Police radar 'beams' are similar in shape to a flashlight beam. They begin
with a thin width and cone outwards with distance. Most guns operating at
the X-band level have a range of about 2000 ft., although high power units
can exceed 2500 and 3000ft., and K-band guns fall shorter at about 1200 ft..
At 1500ft., the radar beam becomes about the width of four highway lanes, so
for practical purposes radars range is around 1700 ft.. A radar signal
transmitted from the 'Radar Gun's' transmitter, (called the oscillator) will
bounce off a object and return to the radar receiver (or antenna). If the
object is moving, the frequency of the beam will be altered as it bounces.
This is most easily visualized watching water ripples. Assume now that I
have just dropped a pebble in a pond, and the ripples are moving outward,
assume also for purposes of simplicity that the ripples are moving at
1 foot per second, and that they are one foot apart. The ripples are
therefore also one second apart. Upon bouncing off a stationary object
the ripples will return weakened, but at the same interval and speed
<Not really the same speed, but let's not complicate things>. Now let
us assume that a toy boat is traveling in the water at .5 ft. per second,
1/2 the speed of the ripples, away from the point which I dropped the
pebble. Assume the first ripple has hit the boat and is traveling back.
The second ripple now traveling at 1 foot per second is only gaining on the
boat by .5 feet per second <1 ft. per second - .5 ft. per second>. This means
that the ripple is one foot away from the boat, as the ripples are one foot
apart. The ripple will take 2 second to reach the boat, as the closure speed
is .5 ft. per second and the distance is 1 foot. The ripple strikes the boat
and bounces back two seconds after the first ripple. The process works
inversely for an object moving towards the pebbles point of impact.
As the distance between the ripples can be determined by the speed, on the
other side, the speed can be determined by the distance between the ripples.
Police radar works in the same way with microwaves. The microwave signal
bounces off a moving vehicle and returns altered in frequency. In this way
the radar unit determines the speed of the object. Radar is only accurate
when the object is moving directly at, or directly away from the gun,
although some modern guns will account for this 'COSINE error', most won't.
Cosine error can be defined as this: When a radar signal bounces off an
object at an angle from the objects direction of travel it will return a
portion of the objects speed computed by the cosine of the infraction
angle. If the angle of the objects direction and the radars direction is
20 degrees the speed returned by the radar is 93.97% of the objects
actual speed. cos (20) = .93969262 * objects speed = returned speed.
For example: A car is traveling at 75 m.p.h.. The state trooper, in his
infinite wisdom, decides to "Clock" the automobile in hopes of meeting his
quota for the month. Picking up his handy radar gun, he aims, and fires
an invisible beam of microwave energy. The officer however, being the rookie
he is, leaves a high angle between the cars direction and his beam of 45
degrees. Cos (45) = .707106781 .707106781 * 75m.p.h. = 53.03300859
53 m.p.h. is displayed on the officers screen. Lucky motorist.
Sorry 40 column users.
|
|\
| \
| \ - Cosine Error -
| \
| 45 \
| deg.\ - radar beam
| \
| \
v \
Direction of \
cars travel \
\
X - state trooper.
Part 2: Application
In 1986, over 15 million speeding tickets were issued,
and experts estimate that over 25% of them were in error. Police have
been using radar for speed control for many years, and as the technology
has become more complex and accurate, so has the ability to get away with
the slight infractions of the speed limits set by the government become more
difficult. In recent years, the three most damaging advances to motorists
in radar technology include: A> Instant on radar. B> K-band radar. and
C> Cosine error correcting radar units.
Instant on radar.
With the increase of radar receivers, or
"Detectors" on the roads, police have attempted to bypass the motorists
first line of defense. The most damaging advance in the war against speeding
motorists is instant on radar. The idea behind instant on radar is to make
the radar detector useless to the motorist by making his warning too late to
react to. Instant on radar was developed in early 1983, but never marketed
until late 1984 when the michigan state troopers were equipped with the first
instant on radar guns. It operates by deactivating the oscillator until
triggered by the officer. When used properly and under the right traffic
conditions, it is indefensible. It works like a camera, the officer
operating the radar will position himself behind a blind corner or over a
hill. When the approaching car crests the hill or rounds the corner, the
officer will activate the oscillator, taking a "snapshot" of your car.
As microwaves travel at the speed of light, any attempt at slowing down
is futile, the officer behind the gun has your speed in less than a tenth
of a second.
K-band Radar.
When radar detectors were first marketed by
the markers of ESCORT, there was only one type of radar. X-band.
In an attempt to increase the dwindling speeding ticket revenue, K-band
was brought to life. K-band is a different frequency that could not be
picked up by the primitive detectors of the age. However, as the
frequency got out, the detectors adapted, and now any detector worth a dollar
will detect both X and K bands. K band is more dangerous as most K-band
guns are instant on and they have less 'Splash' and range than X-band guns.
This means that a K-band signal is probably closer to you.
Cosine error correcting guns.
Cosine error was a major falling of radar
in the judicial system, all readings were under question in court, the
result was a gun which will correct for cosine error by determining the
angle which the radar beam "impacts" with the car. Also new in correcting cosine error were guns with 'Speed lock on' in which the highest speed reading
received by the gun is locked in and displayed.
Moving radar guns.
Until new developments, all radar units
had to remain stationary as radar measures only closure speed, and not actual
speed. Moving radar ended this trend. Moving radar works like this. First the radar gun determines the patrol cars speed by clocking a sign or fixed
object. The closing speed of the patrol car to the sign is subtracted from
the now taken closing speed to the target car.
Patrols speed - 60 m.p.h.
Closing speed to car - 120 m.p.h.
120 m.p.h. - 60 m.p.h. = 60 m.p.h..
Part 3: Defense
From the dawn of speed enforcement, motorists have sought
to defeat the laws, starting with detectors, continuing to jammers and
topping out with the new 'CHiPs detectors' The unfortunate conditions
now favor the police and law enforcement officials with the introduction
of new radar technologies such as instant on radar.
Detectors:
The simple radar receiver is the first line of
defense from radar. Varied in operation and features, the radar detectors
of today are designed to provide high sensitivity and low rates of false
alarms. Good detectors will measure signal strength and type <K or X>
and have an effective range of about 3000 ft. and a probable range of well
over a mile. Sensitivity tops out around 110.5 dBm/cm^2 for X band and
108 dBm/cm^2 for K band <Both set by the passport>. A detector can give
you an excellent advantage over radar by alerting you it's there. Detectors
become especially useful in chicago where instant on radar is not typically
used.
Jammers:
Radar jammers are essentially units that
transmit microwaves at a frequency dictating a certain speed. The result is
regardless of your speed, the police radar unit will display the speed you
set the jammer to transmit. Jammers are highly illegal and will be
confiscated if discovered, expect a stiff fine.
Chip's detector.
This is a new device, which is really a scanner
on the police radio band. It takes advantage of a signal transmitted by the
patrol cars in some states as part of their dispatch system. The signal
carries for about three miles, and the Chip's Detector will alert you if you
are within that range of a highway patrol unit. It also allows scanning
of police radio channels.
Last words.
Radar is a basically accurate instrument, when used
properly, it can be deadly. As I have said before instant on radar is
impossible to avoid when there is no other traffic around, regardless of
a detector. The only thing that comes close is a Radar Jammer, which
will most likely not serve you well unless it is WELL hidden. Radar
jammers are dangerous with the introduction of the HAWK, a radar unit by
Kustom Signals, which DETECTS radar jammers in the hold mode.
Aside from radar, VASCAR
<Visual average speed computer and recorder>
is a new danger to motorists. It is basically a stopwatch
used to time your movement between two point of which the interval distance
is known. Using the formula Average velocity = distance / time, the state
trooper can determine your speed without setting off your detector.
Instant on radar defense.
The only real defense for instant on radar
is traffic. Traffic will cause the trooper to activate his radar gun more
often, cluing you into his presence. A jammer well hidden will help,
but the best technique is to follow a car making good time. Any police
units in the area will clock him first, and legally they have to ticket him,
unless you're too close.
Remember:
Do not speed, it is a dangerous practice, and I can not be responsible
for any injury, or action due to this file, it is for informational
purposes only. The state troopers enforce speed limits for your
safety.
Radar guns: Models.
Radar guns are manufactured by many different
companies, but the primary ones are Kustom Signals, M.p.h. Industries, and Decatur.
The deadliest gun now available is the HAWK
manufactured by Kustom Signals. It is the first gun capable of clocking
cars moving the SAME direction as the patrol car. It has two antennas, one
forward, and one back. Like I stated before, it is also the first gun capable
of detecting radar jammers. These run about 2000$
Kr-11
This gun is a two piece model which uses
a weak pulse signal in the moving mode to determine the patrol car's speed
while not triggering detectors. This gun permits a faster clocking time for
instant on moving radar, it runs about $1200
Falcon
This is a hand held gun operating on K band
Small and compact it is preferred among law enforcement radars. It runs about
600$
Hr-4 Hr-8 Hr-12
400,500,750$ respectively, these are hand
held radar guns made by Kustom Signals
All these units are available to you via me
for less than the troopers pay for them. For prices, and statistics,
call my board at (312) - 787 - 2174 or send me mail at Ripco (312) 528-5020
Prices for radar units range from 250-2000$
I personally enjoy harassing that 911
who barrels by at 95 with a detector.
Questions?
The Dark Side:
(312) - 787 - 2174
Ripco
(312) - 528 - 5020
The Courts of Chaos
( My sister board )
(312) - 915 - 0947
[ ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ]
[ - The Dark Side (312) - 787 - 2174 / 24 hours / Too many megs / 9600 bd - ]
[ ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ]
[Ripco] Which 1-183 ?=menu,<CR>=abort:161
[Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit]
<<< SPACE ABORTS >>>
<<< CONTROL-S PAUSES >>>
[<%: THE DARK FOREST [312] 232:8804 :%>]
{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}
{=--=} {=--=}
{=--=} Picking Combination Locks {=--=}
{=--=} {=--=}
{=--=} A Metal Communications Presentation {=--=}
{=--=} {=--=}
{=--=} Written by: The Byte Byter {=--=}
{=--=} {=--=}
{=--=} The writer of this text file takes <all> responsibility for what {=--=}
{=--=} this text file is used for. Hopefully it will only be used for {=--=}
{=--=} illegal purposes cuz i can't think of a reason it can be used for{=--=}
{=--=} legally. Well, on with the text file. {=--=}
{=--=} {=--=}
{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}
{=--=} Call: /\/\etalland 1 10megs AE/BBS/Cat-Fur Line! [503]538-0761 {=--=}
{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}
Ok, so ya say ya wanna learn how to pick combination locks...This text
file should help you. As a matter of fact, if ya do it right, it will help
you. First of all, let me tell you about the set-up of a lock. When the lock
is locked, there is a curved piece of metal wedged inside the little notch
on the horseshoe shaped bar that is pushed in to the lock when you lock it.
To free this wedge, you must(must is a word used to much) you usually(that
sounds much better) have to turn the lock to the desired combination and the
pressure on the wedge is released therefore letting the lock open. I will now
tell you how to make a pick so you can open a lock without having to waste
all that time turning the combination (this also helps when ya don't know the
combination to begin with). First of all, ya need to find a hairpin. What's a
hairpin? Well, just ask your mom. She will have one. If she asks what its
for, say ya gotta hold something together... If she says use a rubberband or
use a paperclip, tell her to fuck off and die and then go to the store and rip
off a box of 50 or so. Ok, enough stalling (yea, i was stalling). Once you
have your hair pin (make sure its metal), take the ridged side and break it off
right before it starts to make a U-turn onto the straight side. The curved part
t can now be used as a handle. Now, using a file, file down the other end
until it is fairly thin. You should do this to many hairpins and file them
so they are of different thicknesses so you can pick various locks. Some locks
are so cheap that ya don't even have ta file! But most are not. Ok, now you
have a lock pick. Now if ya haven't figured it out, here's how ya use it.
You look at a lock to see which side the lock opens from. If you can't tell,
you will just have to try both sides. When ya find out what side it opens from,
, take the lock pick and stick the filed end into the inside of the horseshoe-
shaped bar on whichever side the lock opens from. Now, put pressure on the
handle of the lock pick (pushing down, into the crack) and pull the lock up and
down. The lock will then open because the pick separated the wedge and the
notch allowing us thieves to open it. Don't say bullshit until you've tried it.
Because I have gotten lots of beer money from doin' this to fellow students'
gym lockers. Also, this technique works best on American locks. I have never
picked a Master lock before because of the shape a pressure of the wedge but
if anyone does it, let me know how long it took. Also, the Master lock casing
is very tight so ya can't get the pick in. So, if you're locking something
valuable up, use a Master, cuz at least ya know I won't be picking it and I'm
sure there aren't that many that could. And when I say pick, i don't mean
lighting a stick of dynamite next to the lock, picking is opening a lock without
t using force, making a substitute key, etc... If any of you believe that this
information is not sufficient for picking an American lock, or any other kind besides Master, leave me a message at /\/\etallant 1 (503) 538-0761.
This concludes my text file on picking combination locks. My next text file will probably be "Picking key locks". See ya later.
The Byte Byter
^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^^
[Ripco] Which 1-183 ?=menu,<CR>=abort:139
[Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit]
_ _ _______
| \/ | / _____/
|_||_|etal/ /hop
_________/ /
/__________/
(314)432-0756
24 Hours A Day, 300/1200 Baud
Presents...
==Phrack Inc.==
Volume One, Issue One, Phile #6 of 8
How to Pick Master Locks
By Gin Fizz & Ninja NYC
Have you ever tried to impress your friends by picking one of those Master
combination locks and failed? Well then read on. The Master lock company has
made this kind of lock with a protection scheme. If you pull the handle of it
hard, the knob won't turn. That was their biggest mistake...... Ok, now on to
it.
1st number. Get out any of the Master locks so you know what's going on.
1: The handle part (the part that springs open when you get the combination),
pull on it, but not enough so that the knob won't move. 2: While pulling on it
turn the knob to the left until it won't move any more. Then add 5 to this
number. Congradulations, you now have the 1st number.
2nd number. (a lot tougher) Ok, spin the dial around a couple of times,
then go to the 1st number you got, then turn it to the right, bypassing the 1st
number once. WHEN you have bypassed. Start pulling the handle and turning it.
It will eventually fall into the groove and lock. While in the groove pull on
it and turn the knob. If it is loose go to the next groove; if it's stiff you
got the second number.
3rd number: After getting the 2nd, spin the dial, then enter the 2 numbers,
then after the 2nd, go to the right and at all the numbers pull on it. The lock
will eventually open if you did it right. If can't do it the first time, be
patient, it takes time.
Have phun...
Gin Fizz/2600 Club!/TPM
Ninja NYC/TPM
[Ripco] Which 1-183 ?=menu,<CR>=abort:122
[Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit]
\\_//
\\\______(0|0)______///
///////// \Y/ \\\\\\\\\
// \\
+-----------|The'"3rd"'Reich|----------+
| """"""""""""""""" |
| Artificial Intelligence Log 0.04 |
+--------------------------------------+
| StunGun: Deffensive and Offensive |
| Strategies; Mods to kit; 10/3/86 |
+--------------------------------------+
Need a weapon, but don't want to hassle the registration, or worry
about being caught possesing 1? Then there is now the StunGun[s/g]...it is
legal in most states.
Actually, the s/g is based on the TaserGun, that the cops now use to
subdue violent offenders. The s/g is a modification the the kit u buy.
The kit has 2 prongs that u must actually push into the victum-which is stupid
and risky for 3 reasons:
1) the attacker may mistake the s/g as a weapon and shooot u dead right there
when u try to pull it out
2) the attacker may shoot u as u try to stab him with the electrodes
3) there may be more than 1 attacker
The modification disguises it as a shity-old flashLight so he will
think nothing of it as you zap him. Take an old beat-up medium sized flash
light about 6 inches long...it has to be long enuf 2 house the p_c board,
dart gun mechanism, flashLight battery etc...now, mount the p_c board into
the back part, leaving nuf room for dart-gun mech...be sure to fan-fold the
electrod wire so when the dart fires, it will lead nice and smooth, and fast.
U might want to put in a powerful BB-gun type air-powered projecter to make
sure the electrodes penetrate a thick leather jacket. If you are really
mechanicaly oriented, U would best to make it reatractable, so u can zap
1 attacker, stun him for a sec, retract the elect., then zap the others...
Strategies:
1) it would be best if u make the s/g still shine a light-to keep the disgise-
and to avoid suspicion.
2) test the s/g out periodically on ur neighbors dog or cat to make sure the
battery is up to power and the circuit's r working right--> note, if the
animal goes into a convulsing, twitching-muscle lock and dies frothing at the
mouth, its putting out too much wattage...tune it down a bit. U not wanto
to get into the situation wher u zap some ugly-reeking ultimate bad-ass
psycho and have it give him a nasty shock and start an epileptic-provoking
electrical neuro-storm and he goes crazy on ya!!!!!! Its not as hard as you
might think to test it out and get some practive on a human subject:
The original developers paid a volunteer to pose as a human guini pig...U 2
can put out an ad in some punk-rocker bar and will be surprised at the # of
low-lifes wanting to get off on this 'new drug' or 'ultimate pain dispensor'
ha, one punk gang requires it as an initiation to get into their gang and
if u ever wanted out, u would have to stand up for 5 full secs of 25K wat!
NOte: 1 sec at 25K wats will stun ua, and posibly confuse u for a bit, as
ur neurons deal with the surge of activity and u hear the crisp crack of
flesh being burned away adn the bright arc of lightning blind ya...5 secs
is usually enuf to knock u unconscious for 30-45 mins.
3) now that u r a certified s/g operator, here are some off/deff strategies for
various situations u may find urself in some fine day...
case A: ur strolling down the street one fine day in may, on the south side
of Chicago, at 3am, don't ask y, ur lost or want to do some s/g practice...
when a dark NEGRO pops down from an overhead fireEscape and kindly says:
'GOOD EVENING, WHITE HONKY-S.O.B-MOTHERFUCKINGCOCKSUCK-A, may ah borra
100 doll-as???...i will surely pay u back on tuesdday'...now, the best way
to handle this fuckUp is to hand over ur fake wallot with fake-counterFit
bills and fake ID int it...(note: incase he does get away, u not want him to
l8r be caught with ur drivers liscense etc, cuz cases have been known where
some dumbFuck temp. secretary has mistakenly given u his long criminal
record-which could take months and major hassles to fix...) Always keep ur
real wallot inside the inseams in ur jacket or pants, or inside pockets.
---> do NOT attempt to talk ur way into any kinda deal with by offering
phreak codz etc, as these inner-city scums usually r 9th grade dropouts
whoes volcalbulary consists of < 100 words and will not understand or
believe u! Now, in tis case, u would not pull out ur s/g, rather, wait
til he is running away THEN zap him!!! also note that these punks may
have a gun on ya, but usually r NOT loaded, cuz they don't want the
hassles of that either...but it IS loaded, the s/g will cause him to convulse
and may make him pull the trigger, so its best to zap him in the back.
case b: ur driving along at a nice clip along a highWay with ur rader jammer
when a gang of 'mad max' types chucks a rock thru ur windsheild forcing
u to jam on the brakes and stop...now, if there are about 3-4 of em, just
get out ur s/g and be ready to zap the leader, u no, the big, ugly one...
this will cause the other punks to scatter like flies. If there are more,
and u have the retractable s/g, zap one, retract, zap the others til u have
them undercontrol...BUT, if they look like they have guns or bombs, HIT
THE GAS AND GET THE FUCK OUTTA THERE FAST!!!
Variations on case a: if u are driving an 18 weeler thru the inner city and
got stopped at a light, and u see some 'saba-haba-howba-duba' nigger standing
on the corner with a pair of boltCutters lookin at ya, there are 2 things u
can do here: u no that in 15 secs they have the bac doors open and are D/Ling
crates...1) lay on the airHorn and run the red...2) reverse and crush em
against the car behind, then floor it and run the red...if u don't wanto
do these optons, then booby-trap the bac doors to zap'em...
case c: u gots a burgler breaking in...if he is any good and sees ur array
of strobing LEDs and thinks he can get by, rig up a motion detector to the
s/g and zap him upon entry...u would then have ur sys autoScan #s til it finds
help and plays a digitized voice of the emergency.
Things to do: say u need bux fast, but don't wanta risk a holdup? well then,
merely zap the 7-11 attendant, what could be easier?? or u may even build
a remote controled model helicopter with a zaper on it to hold up a bank...
they already have ultra small cameras that use CCDs, or Charged Coupled
Devices that can see in the dark etc...all crontroled on a microwave freq,
what can they do besides shoot it down or try to jam the freq? ...well,
i think u can come up with some innovative ideas on ur own...atom...A_I
oh, for info on the kit, see the Sep '86 issue of Radio Electronics mag.
the kit is about $40...there is also some good info bout communications, from
DC to microwave, and other shit...check it out.
ave, and other shit...check it out.
[Ripco] Which 1-183 ?=menu,<CR>=abort:120
[Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit]
----------------------------------------
PYROTECHNICAL
DELIGHTS
----------------------------------------
WRITTEN BY
RAGNER ROCKER
----------------------------------------
MANY OF YOU OUT THERE PROBABLY HAVEFANTASIES OF REVENGE AGAINST TEACHERS, PRINCIPALS AND OTHER PEOPLE WHO ARE JUSTASSHOLES. DEPENDING ON YOUR LEVEL OF HATRED OF THIS PERSON I WOULD ADVISE THAT YOU DO SOME OF THESE FOLLOWING EXPERIMENTS:
(1) POURING DISHSOAP INTO THE GAS TANK OF YOUR ENEMY- MANY OF YOU ALREADY KNOW THAT GASOLINE + DISHSOAP(E.G. JOY, PALMOLIVE, ETC.) FORM A MIXTURE CALLED NAPALM. NOW NAPALM IS A JELLY-LIKE SUBSTANCE USED IN BOMBS, FLAMETHROWERS, ETC. NOW YOU CA
N ONLY GUESS WHAT THIS MIXTURE WOULD DO TO SOMEONE'S FUEL LINE!!!!
(2) SPREADING DIRTY MOTOR OIL/CASTOR OIL ON SOMEONE'S EXHAUST PIPE- WHEN THE EXHAUST PIPE HEATS UP(AND IT WILL!!)THE MOTOR OIL OR CASTOR OIL ON THE PIPE WILL CAUSE THICK, DISGUSTING SMOKE TO OOZE FORTH FROM THE BACK OF THAT CAR. WHO KNOWS MAYBE
HE/SHE MIGHT BE PULLED OVER AND GIVEN A TICKET!!
(3) LIGHT BULB BOMB- YOU CAN REPLACE A LIGHT BULB WITH A BOMB THAT YOU KNOW THAT PERSON WILL USE. A LIGHT BULB CAN BE MADE BY (A) GETTING A TORCH( SUCH AS A PROPANE TORCH VIA K-MART) (B) TAKING A LIGHT BULB AND APPLYING THE TORCH TO WHERE
THE BASE OF THE BULB(THE PART YOU SCREW IN) AND THE ACTUAL BULB MEET. (C) AFTER A LITTLE WHILE THE GLASS WILL BECOME SOFT ALLOWING YOU TO CAREFULLY REMOVE THE BASE FROM THE BULB ITSELF(BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE FILAMENT) (D) NOW FILL THE BUL
B WITH NAPLAM(GAS/DISHSOAP) (E) NOW TAKE SUPER-GLUE AND APPLY IT TO THE GLASS WHERE THE BASE AND GLASS MEET(ALONG THE RIM) (F) NOW INSERT THE BASE INTO THE BULB CAREFULLY. (G) ALLOW TO DRY AND YOU GOT YOURSELF A BOMB (H) NOW REPLACE IN A FIXTURE YOUR E
NEMY IS TO USE THE REGULAR LIGHT BULB WITH THE ONE YOU MADE. MAKE SURE THE LAMP/DESK LIGHT IS OFF!!! NOW WHEN YOUR ENEMY TURNS ON THE LIGHT, HE/SHE IS IN FOR A SUPRISE. BUT BE FOREWARNED THIS WILL MOST LIKELY KILL OR SERIOUSLY INJURE THIS PERSON. FOR A GO
OD TUTORIAL ON HOW TO MAKE A LIGHT BULB BOMB RENT THE MOVIE THE SOLDIER WITH SCOTT GLENN. THERE IS AVERY DETALIED SCENE DESCRIBING HOW TO MAKE IT.
(4) SIMPLE SMOKE/STINK BOMB- YOU CAN PURCHAASE SULPHUR AT A DRUGSTORE UNDER THE NAME FLOWERS OF SULPHUR. NOW WHEN SULPHUR BURNS IT WILL GIVE OFF A VERY STRONG ODOR AND PLENTY OF SMOKE. NOW ALL YOU NEED IS A FUSE FROM A FIRECRACKER, A TIN CAN, AND
THE SULPHUR. FILL THE CAN WITH SULPHUR(PACK VERY LIGHTLY), PUT ALUNINUM FOIL OVER THE TOP OF THE CAN, POKE A SMALL HOLE INTO THE FOIL, INSERT THE WICK, AND LIGHT IT AND GET OUT OF THE ROOM IF YOU VALUE YOUR LUNGS. YOU CAN FIND MANY USES FOR THIS( OR AT
LEAST I HOPE SO.
----------------------------------------
THIS CONCLUDES THIS FILE.
----------------------------------------
CALL RIPCO (312)-528-5020
CALL PHANTASIA- (915)-821-1856
----------------------------------------
MA BELL'S BRAT, RAGNER ROCKER
DEATH TO ALL COMMODORE GEEKS WHO GIVE THE REST OF US A BAD NAME
-------------------------------------- GIVE THE REST OF US A BAD NAME
[Ripco] Which 1-183 ?=menu,<CR>=abort:62
[Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit]
FUN WITH ALARMS
A FACT I FORGOT TO MENTION IN MY PREVIOUS ALARM ARTICLES IS THAT ONE CAN ALSO
USE POLYURETHANE FOAM IN A CAN TO SILENCE HORNS AND BELLS. YOU CAN PURCHASE
THIS AT ANY HARDWARE STORE AS INSULATION. IT IS EASIER TO HANDLE AND DRIES
FASTER.
MANY PEOPLE THAT TRAVEL CARRY A POCKET ALARM WITH THEM. THIS ALARM IS A SMALL
DEVICE THAT IS HUNG AROUND THE DOOR KNOB, AND WHEN SOMEONE TOUCHES THE KNOB HIS
BODY CAPACITANCE SETS OFF THE ALARM. THESE NASTY NUISENCES CAN BE FOUND BY
WALKING DOWN THE HALLS OF A HOTEL AND TOUCHING ALL THE DOOR KNOBS VERY QUICKLY.
IF YOU HAPPEN TO CHANCE UPON ONE, ATTACH A 3' LENGTH OF WIRE OR OTHER METAL
OBJECT TO THE KNOB. THIS WILL CAUSE THE SLEEPING BUSINESS PIG INSIDE TO THINK
SOMEONE IS BREAKING IN AND CALL ROOM SERVICE FOR HELP. ALL SORTS OF FUN AND
GAMES WILL ENSUE.
SOME HIGH-SECURITY INSTALATIONS USE KEYPADS JUST LIKE TOUCH-TONE PADS (A
REGISTERED TRADE MARK OF BELL SYSTEMS) TO OPEN LOCKS OR DISARM ALARMS. MOST
USE THREE OR FOUR DIGITS. TO FIGURE OUT THE CODE, WIPE THE KEY-PAD FREE FROM
ALL FINGERPRINTS. AFTER IT HAD BEEN USED JUST APPLY FINGER PRINT DUST AND ALL
FOUR DIGITS WILL BE MARKED. NOW ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS FIGURE OUT THE ORDER.
IF YOU WANT TO HAVE SOME FUN WITH A KEYPAD, TRY PRESSING THE * AND # AT THE
SAME TIME. MANY UNITS USE THIS AS A PANIC BUTTON. THIS WILL BRING THE OWNER
AND THE COPS RUNNING AND EVER-ONE WILL HAVE A GOOD TIME. NEVER TRY TO REMOVE
THEM FROM THE WALL, AS THEY ALL HAVE TAMPER SWITCHES.
ON THE SUBJECT OF HOLDUPS, MOST PLACES (INCLUDING SUPER-MARKETS, LIQUER STORES,
ETC.) HAVE WHAT IS KNOWN AS A MONEY CLIP. THESE LITTLE NASTIES ARE PLACED AT
THE BOTTOM OF A MONEY DRAWER AND WHEN THE LAST FEW BILLS ARE WITH-DRAWN A
SWITCH CLOSES AND SETS THE ALARM OFF. THAT'S WHY WHEN YOU MAKE YOUR WITHDRAWL
IT'S BEST TO HELP YOUR-SELF SO YOU CAN CHECK FOR THESE LITTLE NASTIES. IF YOU
FIND THEM, MERELY INSERT ONES UNDERNEATH THE PILE OF TWENTIES, AND THEN PULL
OUT THE TWEN-TIES, LEAVING THE ONE-DOLLAR BILL BEHIND TO PREVENT THE CIRCUIT
FROM CLOSING.
IF YOU SHOPLIFT AND SEE CAMERAS, LOOK AT THE BRAND. IF IT IS SURVEILLANCE
VIDEO SYSTEMS (SVS) YOU NEED NOT WORRY. THESE CAMERAS LOOK REALISTIC TO THE
POINT OF PILOT LIGHTS, COAX, AND SCANNING. HOWEVER, THEY ARE ONLY EMPTY BOXES.
(>
[Ripco] Which 1-183 ?=menu,<CR>=abort:14
[Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit]
Copy:
(>READ> HOW TO MAKE TNT
How to make TNT
By THE SCREAMER
Probably the most important explosive compond in use today is TNT (trinitrotoluene). This and other very similar types of high explosives ar all used by the military, because of their fantastic power- about 2.25 millions pounds per square inch, and there
great stability. TNT also has the great advantage of being ableto be melted at 82 degrees F., so that it can be poured into shells, mortars, or any other projectiles. Military TNT comes in containers which resemble dryu cell batteries, and are usually
ingnited by an electrical charge, coupled with an electical blasting cap, although there are other methods.
Preparation of TNT
1. Take two beakers. In the first prepare a solution of 76 percent sulfuric acid, 23 percent nitric acid and 1 percent water. In the other beaker, prepare another solution of 57 percent nitric acid and 43 percent sulfuric acid (percentages are on a weig
ht ratio rather than volume).
2. Ten grams of the first solutions are poured into an empty beaker and placed in an ice bath.
3. Add ten grams of toluene, and stir for several minutes.
4. remove this beaker from the ice bath and gently heat until it reaches 50 degrees C. The solution is stirred constantly while being heated.
5. Fifty additional grams of the acid, from the first beaker, are added and the temperature is held for the next ten minutes, and an oily liquid will begin to form on the top of the acid.
6. After 10 or 12 minutes, the acid solution is returned to the ice bath, and cooled to 45 begrees C> when reaching this temperature, the oily liquid will sink and collect at the bottom of the beaker. Atr this point, the remaining acid solution should be
drawn off, by using a syringe.
7. Fifty more grams of the first acid solution are added to the oily liquid while the temperature is SLOWLY being raised to 83 degrees C. After this temperature is reached, it is maintaind for a full half hour.
8. At the end of this period, he solution is allowed to cool to 60 degrees C>, and is held at this temperature for another full half hour. After this, the acid is again drawn off, leaving once more only the oily liquid at the bottem.
9. Thirty grams of sulfuric acid are added, while the oily liquid is gently heated to 80 degrees C. All temperature increases must be accoumplished slowly and gently.
10.Once the desired temperature is reached, 30 grams of the second acid solution are added, and the temperature is raised from 80 dgregrees C> to 104 degrees C., and is held for three hours.
11.After this three hour period, the mixture is lowered to 100 degrees C. and held there for a half hour.
12.After this half hour, the oil is removed form the acid and washed with boiling water.
13.After the washing with boiling water, while being stired constantly, the TNT will begin to solidify.
14.When the solidification has started, cold water is added to the beaker, so that the TNT will form into pellets. Once this is done, you have a good quality TNT.
NOTE: the temperatures used in the preparation of TNT are EXACT, and must be used as such. DO NOT estimate or use aproximations. Buy a good centigrade thermometer.
The author take NO RESPONSIBILITY for any damage to persons or property for this formula. It is supplied for STUDY PURPOSES ONLY.
- **s*****c**r*e*a*****m**e***r*
(>*s*****c**r*e*a*****m**e***r*
[Ripco] Which 1-183 ?=menu,<CR>=abort:7
[Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit]
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
$ $
$ SOFT DRINK CAN BOMB $
$ ---- ----- --- ---- $
$ $
$ AN ARTICLE FROM THE BOOK: $
$ $
$ THE POOR MAN'S JAMES BOND $
$ BY KURT SAXON $
$ $
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
THIS IS AN ANTI-PERSONNEL BOMB MEANT FOR MILLING CROWDS. THE BOTTOM OF A
SOFT DRINK CAN IS HALF CUT OUT AND BENT BACK. A GIANT FIRECRACKER OR OTHER
EXPLOSIVE IS PUT IN AND SURROUNDED WITH NUTS AND BOLTS OR ROCKS. THE FUSE IS
THEN ARMED WITH A CHEMICAL DELAY IN A PLASTIC DRINKING STRAW.
AFTER FIRST MAKING SURE THERE ARE NO CHILDREN NEARBY, THE ACID OR
GLYCERINE IS PUT INTO THE STRAW AND THE CAN IS SET DOWN BY A TREE OR
WALL WHERE IT WILL NOT BE KNOCKED OVER. THE DELAY SHOULD GIVE YOU THREE
TO FIVE MINUTES. IT WILL THEN HAVE A SHATTERING EFFECT ON PASSERSBY.
IT IS HARDLY LIKELY THAT ANYONE WOULD PICK UP AND DRINK FROM SOMEONE
ELSE'S SOFT DRINK CAN. BUT IF SUCH A CRUDE PERSON SHOULD TRY TO DRINK FROM
YOUR BOMB HE WOULD BREAK A NASTY HABIT FAST!
!!
!!
!! <-CHEMICAL INGITER
---------
! !1! !
! ===== !
!*! !"!
! ! ! !
! ! ! !<- BIG FIRECRACKER
! ! !%!
! ==== !
! !
! # !
! --- !
! ! ! <- NUTS & BOLTS
! / !
! !
---------
[Ripco] Which 1-183 ?=menu,<CR>=abort:126
[Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit]
- ******************************************************************************
- *
- El Pirata's Guild On How To Make A Chemical Fire Bottle *
- Written for: Toxic Oyster Guild *
- *
- Formatted for 80 columns 05/12/85 *
- *
- ******************************************************************************
Materials Required:
==================
Sulphuric Acid (Battery Acid)
Gasoline
Potassium Chlorate (Drug Store)
Sugar
Glass bottle w/stopper (roughly 1 quart size)
Small bottle or jar w/lid
Rag or absorbent paper (newspaper, paper towels, etc.)
String or rubber bands
Procedure:
=========
1) Sulphuric Acid Must be Concentrated. If battery acid or other dilute acid
is used, concentrate it by boiling until dense white fumes are given off.
Container used should be of eenamelware or oven glass.
CAUTION: Sulphuric acid will burn skin and destroy clothing. If any is
spilled, wash it away with a large quantity of water. Fumes are also
dangerous and should not be inhaled.
2) Remove the acid from heat and allow to cool to room temerature.
3) Pour gasoline into the large (1 quart) bottle until it is approximately
2/3 full.
4) Add concentrated sulphuric acid to gasoline slowly until the bottle is
filled to within 1' to 2' from top. Place the stopper on the bottle.
5) Wash the outside of the bottle thoroughly with clear water.
CAUTION: If this is not done, the fire bottle may be dangerous to handle
during use.
6) Wrap a clean cloth or several sheets of absorbent paper around the outside
of the bottle. Tie with string or fasten with rubber bands.
7) Dissolve 1/2 cup (100 gm) of potassium chlorate and 1/2 cup (100 gm) of
sugar in one cup (250 cc) of boiling water.
8) Allow the solution to cool, pour into the small bottle and cap tightly.
The cooled solution should be approx. 2/3 crystals and 1/3 liquid. If
there is more liquid than this, pour off excess before using.
CAUTION: Store this bottle separately from the other bottle.
How To Use:
==========
1) Shake the small bottle to mix contents and pour onto the cloth or paper
around the large bottle. Bottle can be used wet or after solution has
dried. However, when dry, the sugar - Potassium chlorate mixture is very
sensitive to spark or flame and should be handled accordingly.
2) Throw or launch the bottle. When the bottle breaks against a hard surface
(target) the fuel will ignite.
Conclusion:
==========
This weapon proves to be very useful in torching Assholes and/or their
possessions. Use your imagination.
-=> <El Pirata'> <=-
(c) 1985 TOG ENTERPRISES
[Ripco] Which 1-183 ?=menu,<CR>=abort:106
[Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit]
[>------------------------------------<]
[> <]
[> <]
[> [> <] <]
[> [+%--The 3rd Reich--%+] <]
[> [> <] <]
[> Presents <]
[> <]
[> Change Machine Fraud !! <]
[> <]
[>------------------------------------<]
[> <]
[> Written <]
[> by <]
[> <]
[> The Prisoner /// <]
[> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ <]
[>------------------------------------<]
Okay...There are certain ways to take
money out of a change machine...
1) You can blow the fucker up..
2) You can use this quick and easy method
Heres what ya do....
I.
There are certain types of money
changing machines...The one YOU need
is the kind where ya put yer bill in
the tray <lengthwise> ,push the tray
in to get yer change...
II.
Once you got the right machine,get
a $5 or a $1 ,it helps if the bill is
WRINKLED...Then tear a notch in the
bill on the lower left side of the
bill.Cut the notch about 3.5 cm. from
the lower left hand corner...
III.
Now, go to the machine..put the
bill in the tray and slide it in...
Now what will happen is the machine
will have so far read the bill right
and it will spit out yer change..
Then when it reads the notch, it
will think the bill is fucked up and
reject it and like you will have the
change and yer bill...
For this to werk right you must have
done this right..it does take practice
but once you can do this your local
Money Changer will be yer bank...
oh yeah one more thing..dont tell
or upload this file to to many places
otherwise every fuckin person in the
nation will be doin this and this
file would be no use....
whatever...
written by...
The Prisoner ///
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
of
[+%--The 3rd Reich--+%]
from
The Sanctuary Elite
[--->503-684-0548<---]
[Ripco] Which 1-183 ?=menu,<CR>=abort:96
[Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit]
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
% % % <> How to make an FM wireless BUG <> %
% %
% By: <-> Johnney Rotten <-> %
% %
% <> A Cryptic Criminals/Elite Justice Society presentation <> %
% %
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
What it is
----------
This handy little device can be used for two purposes. The first is a FM bug,
which transmits on the FM frequency, thus making it extremely easy to pick up.
The second is a FM station blocker (which can be really fun if you are pissed
at someone who just happens to be listening to the radio. In this case, you
can do 1 (or both) of these: A) announce through the bug (on their station)
that Fred (whoever is listening) has just won 1 years supply of orthopedic
shoe pads, or B) disconnect the mike, and let it fry the station.) In this
file, I will make some incredibly lame schematics, which any fool can follow,
(lets see you make good schematics with Apple Writer), and tell you all the
junk you need (duh..) Ok, if you have no electronics background at all, go
ahead and try it anyways (hell, it's not my money your wasting on parts)
Required Parts
--------------
(1) 2n3904 transistor............................[Q1]
(1) 10k resistor (+-5%)..........................[R1]
(1) 4.7k resistor (+-5%).........................[R2]
(1) 1k resistor (+-5%)...........................[R3]
(1) .001 uf capacitor............................[C1]
(1) 5 to 80 pf variable capacitor................[C2]
(1) 10 pf capacitor..............................[C3]
(2) .5 uh coils..................................[L1,L2]
(1) SpSt slide switch............................[S1]
(1) 9 volt battery clip..........................[B1]
(1) Antenna or antenna wire (3 in. or more)......[A1]
(1) microphone (like one out of a phone).........[M1]
Schematics
----------
--------------*-------------*-------------*-------------*
| | | | |
| | | | | +A1
| | | | L1 |
S1 R1 | C2 | |
| | | | *----
| | | | |
+ | | | L2
B1 | | | |
- | C1 | |
| | | | |
| *-------------*------Q1/-----*------------*
| | \ |
--------* | \_________________C3
mike | |
--------* | |
| R2 R3
| | |
| | |
---------------------------------------------------------
How to operate
--------------
1. Turn on (duh..)
2. Turn the variable capacitor until you are on the station that you want to
use (preferably towards either end, so if they turn on their radio, they
don't get a bunch of audio feedback when they hit your station)
3. This bug does not have a long range (50 ft max), but if you use a large
antenna on your stereo (like the rooftop kind) the range is greatly increased
. I prefer to use a AM/FM walkman, so I can get close to the bug, and tape what
I want.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
(C) January 1, 1986 Cryptic Criminals/Elite Justice Society |Thanks: Dr. Deth
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Call these cool boards:
Castle Asgard.........[10 meg BBS/AE/FUR].......(818) 788-3594
Remote Hideout........[20 meg BBS/AE/FUR].......(818) 709-1079
Treasure Island.......[2 drv AE/PW: RUSH].......(414) 547-2805
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
[Ripco] Which 1-183 ?=menu,<CR>=abort:93
[Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit]
///\/\/\/\/\/\/\\\
<<< Pyro Book ][ >>>
\\\/\/\/\/\/\/\///
by ->Capt Hack<-
and ->Grey Wolf<-
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Well, I never thought I would be doing
this, but here it is: ->BOOK II<-
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
TIME DELAYED CHEMICAL FUSE
--------------------------
1) Put 1 teaspoon full of of potassium
permanganate in a tin can.
2) add glycerine
3) wait 3-4 min.
4) get the hell out.. the stuff will
smoke, then burst into flame..
- * potasium permanganate stains like
iodine but worse [it's purple]
- * the reaction will spatter a bit
->it can be messy...
- * it doesn't matter if the amounts
are uneven [ie. 1 part to 3 parts]
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
ALUMINUM KILLER (OVERNIGHT)
---------------
silver iodide --> aluminum iodide
+ aluminum + silver
..or..
AgI + Al --> Ag + AlI
ALUMINUM IODIDE is very hydroscopic --
it will absorb water [it will even
absorb water out of the air!]
SILVER IODIDE eats through aluminum --
the resulting aluminum iodide will
>disolve itself< as it aborbs H20 from
the air!
The final result is aluminum with a
wet hole in it. [the wetness is AlI
solution]
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
THERMITE
--------
This stuff can burn *anything*. [except
Tungsten].. It's great for burning
open a fortress fone [a pay phone, for
those who do not know]
Here is the step-by-step on how to make
it.
1) First you need rust. The best way
to make alot of it is....
a) get an electric train trans-
former
b) attach a common nail to the
PLUS (+) end of the trans-
former
c) get a glass jar
d) fill it with water
e) put salt [regular table salt
is fine] into the water
f) put the other end (-) into
water with the nail [leave the
transformer out, of course]
g) turn on the transformer
h) let the contraption run over-
night
i) seperate out all the red shit
[that's the rust] with a
filter or a spoon.
j) let the stuff dry [like on
a paper towel]
k) that's it! you have rust!
2) Get some aluminum filings from the
hardware store [or shave your own
from a bar with less that 94% pure
aluminum, called duralumin]
3) Now, just mix:
8 grams rust
--------------------------
3 grams aluminum filings
4) That's Thermite!! Now, to ignite
it...
5) You now need some Magnesium ribbon.
To get it, you can:
a) steal it from the chemistry
lab at school
b) buy it at the hardware store
c) buy it from a chemical
supply house.
6) Alright, shove the Magesium ribbon
into the Thermite at a fuse.
7) Then light it with a blowtorch.
[It won't get hot enough to ignite
the Thermite, though]
8) last step: get the hell back.
[it can vaporize CARBON STEEL!]
- * my thanx to the person who wrote
the file "Thermite".. whoever the
hell you are.....................
[put your name in if you ever get
this]
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
(=> If I ever get around to it, Pyro
book III will live!!
(=> If not..
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
I would like to thank Captain Hack
for his assistance in generating
some of this material.
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
)> Stay Around <(
-=[ Grey ]=-
-=[ Wolf ]=-
/^\ The Time Lords /^\
\^/ ~~~ ~~~~ ~~~~~ \^/
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
--END OF FILE--
-END OF FILE--
[Ripco] Which 1-183 ?=menu,<CR>=abort:92
[Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit]
==Phrack Inc.==
Volume One, Issue Two, Phile #3 of 9
:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
@@@@ --] Man-Tooth [-- @@@@
@@@@ presents... @@@@
@@@@:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::@@@@
@@@@ -- HOMEMADE GUNS -- @@@@
@@@@:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::@@@@
@@@@ from @@@@
@@@@ "The Poor Man's James Bond" @@@@
@@@@ by Kurt Saxon @@@@
:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
PIPE OR "ZIP" GUNS
------------------
Commonly known as "zip" guns, guns made from pipe have been used for years by juvenile punks. Today's Militants make them just for the hell of it or to shoot once in an assassination or riot and throw away if there is any danger of apprehen
sion.
They can be used many times but with some, a length of dowel is needed to force out the spent shell.
There are many variations but the illustration shows the basic design.
First, a wooden stock is made and a groove is cut for the barrel to rest in. The barrel is then taped securely to the stock with a good, strong tape.
The trigger is made from galvanized tin. A slot is punched in the trigger flap to hold a roofing, which is wired or soldered onto the flap. The trigger is bent and nailed to the stock on both sides.
The pipe is a short length of one-quarter inch steel gas or water pipe with a bore that fits in a cartridge, yet keeps the cartridge rim from passing through the pipe.
The cartridge is put in the pipe and the cap, with a hole bored through it, is screwed on. Then the trigger is
slowly released to let the nail pass through the hole and rest on the primer.
To fire, the trigger is pulled back with the left hand and held back with the thumb of the right hand. The gun is then aimed and the thumb releases the trigger and the thing actually fires.
Pipes of different lengths and diameters are found in any hardware store. All caliber bullets, from the .22 to the .45 are used in such guns.
Some zip guns are made from two or three pipes nested within each other. For instance, a .22 shell will fit snugly into a length of a car's copper gas line. Unfortunatey, the copper is too weak to withstand the
pressure of the firing. So the length of gas line is spread with glue and pushed into a wider length of pipe. This is spread with glue and pushed into a length of steel pipe with threads and a cap.
Using this method, you can accomodate any cartridge, even a rifle shell. The first size of pipe for a rifle shell accomodates the bullet. The second accomodates its wider powder chamber.
A 12-gauge shotgun can be made from a 3/4 inch steel pipe. If you want to comply with the gun laws, the barrel should be at least eighteen inches long.
Its firing mechanism is the same as that for the pistol. It naturally has a longer stock and its handle is lengthened into a rifle butt. Also, a small nail is driven half way into each side of the stock about four inches in the fr
ont of the trigger. The rubber band is put over one nail and brought around the trigger and snagged over the other nail.
In case you actually make a zip gun, you should test it before firing it by hand. This is done by first tying the gun to a tree or post, pointed to where it will do no damage. Then a string is tied to the trigger and you go off s
everal yards. The string is then pulled back and let go. If the barrel does not blow up, the gun is safe to fire by hand.
You should not attempt to register such a gun. Pipe Cap
/
/ Bullet Tape Pipe
/ / / \ /
v / / \ /
!----! / v v v
Nail--\ / /-!---v-----!---!-!---!---------
v --- - - - - - -!- -!-!- -!- - - - !
//----> ![][]\ ! ! ! ! !
^ ! !--\ ![][]/ ! ! ! ! !
Wire/ ! ! \-!- - - - -!- -!-!- -!- - - - !
Trigger---> ! ! !---! ! ! ! ! ::::
/! ! /--------!---!-!---!--::::--!
/ :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: <-\
! !-! / \-- Rubber
/ / band
! !
! /
! !
! !
! !
!------!
Z I P G U N
/ <---Nail
!-!/
/------------------\ /-----!o!-----\
! O O O ! ! ------------- !
\--------! !-------/ !! !!
!-! !! !!
!! !!
!! !!
Trigger before bending /--> !! !! <--\
Place !! !! Nail
nail hole
here
Trigger
Downloaded from the Matrix: 415-922-2008
[Ripco] Which 1-183 ?=menu,<CR>=abort:
[Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit]
RIPCO Main G-Phile Menu 7/24/88
---------------------------------------
Sub-menu selections:
last updated
(1) Telecom Series 7/24/88
(2) Numbers 7/24/88
(3) Anarchy 7/24/88
(4) Telecommunications 7/24/88
(5) Misc. 7/24/88
(6) Apple ][ Files 7/24/88
(7) Newspaper & Law Articles 7/24/88
(8) Dox Files 7/24/88
(9) Game Solves 6/26/88
(10) Boxes 4/27/88
[Ripco] Which 1-10 ?=menu,<CR>=abort:
Main Command Level <?=help>
[(>?
[Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit]
RIPCO COMMANDS
--------------------------------------
(A)e list (B)ulletin board(s)
(C)hat with sysop (D)isplay parms
(E)-mail (F)eedback to sysop
(G)-philes (H)elp !!!
(I)nfo on RIPCO (N)ew g-phile list
(O)ff system (P)assword change
(S)tatus (yours) (U)sers on RIPCO
(V)oting (X) Upload a file
($)system news (?)this menu....
(!)switch boards
enter # of sub-board if known
global read - enter any board, hit G
Main Command Level <?=help>
[(>!
[ Alt. Boards ]
1.*.Main Board
2.*.Apple Games/Trades
3.*.Technical Q & A
4.*.General Game Trades
5.*.Phone Phun
6.*.AE Message Board
7.*.Declassified Ads
8.*.Spare Board
Which Board -> 8
[[- SPARE -]]
Bulletins from 1 to 127
Since your last call:
There are 77 new messages
Read them now? [Y/N]:No
[B8,1-127]
Message Command Level <?=help>
[(>?
[[- SPARE -]]
(#) Number of message to read (N)ew messages
(F)orward message read (S)can message titles
(B)rowse (title serch) (M)arked messages read
(Q)uit to main level (H)elp file
(G)lobal Read of whole system (C)hange to another board
(E)nter message into system (K)ill a message
[B8,1-127]
Message Command Level <?=help>
[(>Q
Main Command Level <?=help>
[(>O
Terminate Connection
Are you sure [Y/N]:Yes
Goodbye COHO, you were caller #81769
Thanks for calling RIPCO
Connected 26 mins, 0 secs
---------------------------------------
RIPCO 312-528-5020 24 HOURS
---------------------------------------
uAjMR[xRipco G-Phile Menu #3 [ANARCHY] (80 column) 4/9/89
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
G# TITLE UPLOADED LENGTH
OF PHILE BY BYTES
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
note:for xmodem transfer of file, use X##. for ascii dump, use ## only.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
(250) How to buy Liquor Terminal Raider 7567
(249) The Terrorists Handbook Big Bop Phreak 188032
(248) Fun with Misc People Dispater! 3907
(247) Fun with Automobiles Dispater! 4553
(246) Terrorists Guide to Explosives Big Bop Phreak 19580
(245) 5 Misc Files Mastermind 13547
(244) Electronic Delay Detonator Paul Pekar 6334
(243) Computer Heisting L.E. Pirate 4631
(242) Trashing Revenge Fatal Error 10540
(241) Crashing Library Computers L.E. Pirate 4502
(240) Let's Destroy Burlington Night Crawler 8054
(239) Coin Fraud The Thrasher 2419
(238) Little fun for Chem Class The Crusher 3448
(237) How to Make Grenades L.E. Pirate 3609
(236) How to Make a Stun Gun L.E. Pirate 3510
(235) Pen Bomb L.E. Pirate 3952
(234) The Highway Scam L.E. Pirate 3241
(233) Balloon Bomb L.E. Pirate 3805
(232) How to Make Slime L.E. Pirate 3328
(231) Remote TV Operations L.E. Pirate 6862
(230) How to Make Timers L.E. Pirate 4159
(229) Getting High off Gatorade Satans Son 2181
(228) Nightime Revenge Satans Son 11696
(227) A Powerful Pipebomb Mastermind 1994
(226) A Good Cherry Bomb Mastermind 1906
(225) How to Make Good Money Mastermind 3474
(224) Fun with Small Animals Swamp Rat 6494
(223) Mail Fraud Swamp Rat 4758
(222) Traffic Light Fun Swamp Rat 3649
(221) Phone Sex Scam Swamp Rat 6310
(220) EZ Destruction Swamp Rat 4891
(219) How to Card while Living at Home Swamp Rat 6221
(218) Car Sabotage Video Vindicator 6353
(217) Better Homes and Trashing Ares the God 5659
(216) Step by Step Carding Ares the God 6779
(215) Screwing Public Utilities Billy Heif 4578
(214) Making M-80's for Profit Jeff Miller 4219
(213) Money from Payphones Charles Manson 3300
(212) Self Igniting Mixtures Number Six 32041
(211) Contact Explosives Number Six 24684
(210) Mail Fraud Josh Levinson 3542
(209) Slow Death Swamp Rat 3072
(208) 20 Way to Disrupt Assemblies Swamp Rat 4864
(207) Gerbil Feed Bomb Swamp Rat 3456
(206) Death the Sick Way Dr. Leppard 4872
(205) Auto Tailing The Falcon 7527
(204) Scanning The Falcon 10201
(203) Guerrilla War Manual I The Falcon 13487
(202) Fatal Error's Notes on Trashing Fatal Error 5329
(201) Pyro Phun III Hitch Hacker 11106
(200) Robbing Houses #2 Video Vindicator 7570
(199) Robbing Houses #1 Video Vindicator 9893
(198) BIC Balistics Video Vindicator 4952
(197) Unconventional Warfare #2 Video Vindicator 19966
(196) Unconventional Warfare #1 Video Vindicator 13061
(195) Where to get Weapons Video Vindicator 5376
(194) Carding, My Way Video Vindicator 9666
(193) Climbing Tutorial #1 Number Six 2087
(192) Shuriken Number Six 2999
(191) Smoke Screen #1 Number Six 3755
(190) Making Marijuana Beer Mark Manning 11012
(189) Making M-80's Mark Manning 4162
(188) Pranks Philip Vaughan 17466
(187) Tear Gas Philip Vaughan 4337
(186) Soviet Intellegence Marvin Lanes 8562
(185) Destruction via Electronics Marvin Lanes 5296
(184) Giant Jumping Jacks Marvin Lanes 1471
(183) How to be a Peeping Tom Brutus Macabbee 3582
(182) Shopping Malls The Skank 7424
(181) Adventures in Fraud Vol.1 Sir Collegiate 8973
(180) Check Fraud Sir Collegiate 3875
(179) How to get Anything on Anyone Sir Collegiate 2029
(178) Kill Thy Neighbor Hotblack Desiato 5068
(177) Make Chlorine Gas Hotblack Desiato 1142
(176) Poison #1 Calico Jack 6676
(175) Cable Theft The Neighborly Way Spank Y 4424
(174) Kmart & Target Fun Kracking Crue 9689
(173) Legal Highs Jim Smith 7140
(172) Canning Lurker Above 5121
(171) Pipe Bombs Lurker Above 2179
(170) Phone Sex The Skank 5522
(169) Milkcrate Bomb XTX-101 0 1556
(168) How to Make LSD Power Assist 1713
(167) Atomic Bomb Info pts. I,II,III Night Hawk 41703
(166) Making a Still Chris Allan 4908
(165) Guide to Radar & State Troopers Exilic Xyth 15659
(164) Anarchy Handbook II Hammerhead. 25141
(163) A Trashing Telex Story Super Hacker 4020
(162) How to Get Lost Chris Masters 2430
(161) Picking Combination Locks * Piglet * 4770
(160) Bar Rockets Death Ant 3930
(159) Projects for Bored Anarchists Lurker Above 4446
(158) Phlamethrower Phun Lurker Above 2051
(157) Breaking Into a House The Haj 2382
(156) Pipe Bomb Ice Man 2566
(155) Mischief Night High Octain 5125
(154) Complete Guide to Anarchy Snake Eyes 9561
(153) Fun With Bees Joe Shmoe the Eskimo 12414
(152) Mercury Battery Bomb Mike Stepansky 1008
(151) Fun with Billboards Max Headroom 6871
(150) Watermelon Bomb Flying Hermit 4647
(149) How to Blow up a Car Flying Hermit 5831
(148) Quick Postal Tricks The Enforcer 3319
(147) Nightime Fun The Occultist 7737
(146) Making a BB Gun The Sentinel 3551
(145) Getting Others to Commit Suicide Electronic Rebel 10226
(144) Civilian Warfare & Sabotage Angus Young 22272
(143) Ring Master Gun I Ralph Kramden 9088
(142) Explosive Pen Ralph Kramden 3200
(141) H-Bomb Plans Cheshire Cat 23584
(140) Astrolite Explosives Electronic Rebel 5651
(139) Picking MasterLocks Electronic Rebel 2100
(138) Homemade Guns Electronic Rebel 6543
(137) How to Counterfeit Electronic Rebel 5821
(136) School Lockers Electronic Rebel 7515
(135) Making RDX Electronic Rebel 5207
(134) Anarchy In the Snow Electronic Rebel 5419
(133) Expedient Grenades Electronic Rebel 4008
(132) Revenge Electronic Rebel 4671
(131) How to Shoplift pt.2 Electronic Rebel 5704
(130) Mail/Telephone Fraud Electronic Rebel 17740
(129) Fun With Mailboxes Electronic Rebel 7259
(128) Soda Bombs Electronic Rebel 1951
(127) Grandmas Recipe for Black Powder El Pirata' 2536
(126) Firebomb El Pirata' 3158
(125) Job Manual The Culprit 4129
(124) Making an FM Monitor Command Sozo 2304
(123) Arts of Lockpicking * Amadeus * 10240
(122) Stungun Mods & Strategies Artif. Intelligence 6912
(121) Making AFPO & NI3 Power Assist 2270
(120) Pyrotechnical Delights Ragner Rocker 3200
(119) Bell Trashing The Producer 3840
(118) Signing pts. 1,2,3,4 Lord Tiqvah 14080
(117) 10 Commandments of Anarchy Lord Tiqvah 4352
(116) Anarchist Phone Pranks IV * Amadeus * 6400
(115) Anarchist Phone Pranks III * Amadeus * 12032
(114) Anarchist Phone Pranks II * Amadeus * 5888
(113) Anarchist Phone Pranks I Otay Okay 11520
(112) Pranks Lord Tiqvah 3712
(111) Bug Detector/Car Tracker Lord Tiqvah 14990
(110) Ammonium Nitrate * Amadeus * 6912
(109) Carding II Lord Arioch 13568
(108) Carding I Lord Arioch 4864
(107) More on Trashing Elric of Imrryr 6917
(106) Change Machine Fraud The Prisoner /// 2560
(105) Commando (file 2) Ralph Jones 4352
(104) Commando (file 1) Ralph Jones 5888
(103) Meter Smashing The Black Death 5173
(102) Sugar Rocket Improvements Honest John 6400
(101) Making A Sugar Rocket Honest John 10240
(100) How to Make a Rifle Microphone Disk Phantom 4352
(99) Picking Combination Locks Dos Ranger 4864
(98) American Dynamite * Amadeus * 2304
(97) Parent Pranks Dos Ranger
(96) Making a FM bug Dos Ranger
(95) Murder Dos Ranger
(94) Opening P.O. Boxes Disk Phantom
(93) Pyro Book II Disk Phantom
(92) Zip Guns Shadow Hawk I
(91) Making Crystal Shadow Hawk I
(90) Guide to Fed Agencies Disk Phantom
(89) More Free Electricity Shadow Hawk I
(88) Making Mercury Fulminate Jesse Hiy
(87) Free Electricity Shadow Hawk I
(86) Anarchy Files III Night Crawler
(85) Quicky Bomb Shadow Hawk I
(84) Cracking the UPC Countlegger I
(83) Toilet Bomb Angus Young
(82) Radar Jamming Red Beard
(81) Pipe Bomb Bad Dogg
(80) Phlasher Phinding Inspector Gadget
(79) False ID Inspector Gadget
(78) Coin Fraud Silver Samurai
(77) Anarchy Done Right Steve Beard
(76) CC'ing Made Easy Insepctor Gadget
(75) M80-M100's Ripco II/Ae
(74) Carding III Silver Samurai
(73) Mail Fraud Ripco II/Ae
(72) Anarchy Manual 3 Night Crawler
(71) Pissing People Off II Dr. Nitemare
(70) Pissing People Off I Dr. Nitemare
(69) Anarchy Manual 2 Night Crawler
(68) Anarchy Manual 1 Night Crawler
(67) Picking Master Locks Judge Fear
(66) Having fun at K-Mart Masked Squirrel
(65) Laughing Gas Jong Lee
(64) Stinkums Jong Lee
(63) Smoke Screens for Cars Sir Bernlad
(62) Fun with Alarms Mr. Processor
(61) Car Trashing Ripco Ae 831-5427
(60) Procurement Directory Street Hawk
(59) 4 Misc. Files Capt'n Crunch
(58) Dr.Mads Chem Class Capt'n Crunch
(57) Explosives Capt Crunch
(56) Pranks Capt Crunch
(55) War Tactics Dos Ranger
(54) 20 ways to Sabotage School Cosmic Charlie
(53) Special Warfare Manual Dos Ranger
(52) Steel Casings Thunder God
(51) About LSD Thunder God
(50) Drugs in your Own Home Thunder God
(49) Smoke pipe bomb Stee One
(48) Poorman's James Bomb Dave Letterman
(47) Milkmans Friend Bomb Dave Letterman
(46) Anarchy Manual Metal Comm. Inc.
(45) Raising Hell Metal Comm. Inc.
(44) Full Auto Metal Comm. Inc.
(43) Kitchen Chemistry 1-4 Stee One
(42) Terror in your Neighborhood Stee One
(41) Improvised Munitions Magnetic Medium
(40) Making & Using Nitro Sir Bernlad
(39) AT&T Forgery Silent Rebel
(38) Revenge Silent Rebel
(37) Explosive Pens Silent Rebel
(36) Making Pocket Rockets Stee One
(35) Misc. Nasties Stee One
(34) Improved Explosives Ripco II/Ae
(33) Nitro Ripco II/Ae
(32) Explosives Stee One
(31) Home Defense 101 pt.1 Dave Letterman
(30) Home Defense 101 pt.2 Dave Letterman
(29) Postal Fraud Prince of Darkness
(28) Nitroglycerin Stee One
(27) Dynamite/Household Chems. Stee One
(26) Trip Wires somewhere
(25) Tennis Ball Bomb somewhere
(24) Tear Gas somewhere
(23) Guide to Explosives somewhere
(22) Chlorox-Drano somewhere
(21) Chlorine Gas Bomb somewhere
(20) Chemistry Class somewhere
(19) Chemist's Corner somewhere
(18) Breaking Into Houses somewhere
(17) Book of the Unlawfuls somewhere
(16) Blowing Up a Car somewhere
(15) Knock Out Drops The Sting
(14) T.N.T. The Sting
(13) Napalm Grenade The Sting
(12) Lockpicking unknown 3800
(11) Explosives SID VICIOUS 2400
(10) Revenge SILENT REBEL 5600
(9) Supplies MACK BOLAN 4300
(8) M.A.I.M Volume I RICK ROGERS 8100
(7) Soft Drink Can Bomb THE MYSTIC 2000
(6) Electronic Terrorism THE MYSTIC 5100
(5) Letter Bombs THE MYSTIC 3600
(4) Making Thermite THE MYSTIC 2500
(3) Light Bulb Bomb SHADOW HAWK I 2000
(2) Explosives SHADOW HAWK I 20000
(1) Paranoia(bombs & gas lines) THE APPRENTICE 2300
[Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,<CR>=abort:1
[Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit]
Hey, check out the facts,let's see
what they do for your PARANOIA:
Natural gas flows through millions of
miles of piplines in the U.S. One
charge will blow up a gas pipeline
along miles of its length since the
air let into the pipeline by the exp-
losion will cause secondary explosions.
Of 65 pipelines,24 carry 97% of the gas
which accounts for more than one-third
of the nation's total energy supply.
Only 4 pipelines connects the gas
fields in the South and Southwest to
New York and Los Angeles. Maps of the
lines can be obtanied from the Dept-
ment ofEnergy and by studying industry
journals.
Oil pipelines can be destroyed by
penetrating the central pipeline cont-
rol system. In one Southern city, which
controls oil movement in several states.
Yikes! And contrary to the argument
advanced by some self-styled special-
ists and the news media that few poss-
ess the technological expertise to use
weapons of mass destruction, it is
much much easier than you think.
There's a book giving location,pub-
lished in the New York Times,Feb 1979,
two large map pinpointing every power
station and transmission line from
Washington to the Canadian border.
Blowing up some of these stations and
lines would wipe out the electrical
supply of the East Coast.
For another example, the a Book
called 'Basement Nukes, $6.95, by
some guy named, Charles Clark.
Title of the book is :
Technological Terrorism $10.00
Clark shows how they canb be readily
obtained by theft from inefficently
guarded nuclear plants and armories.
Both of the above mentioned books
are readily available to anyone with
the buck, how sad,huh...shit!
Technological Terrorism is a nightmare
scenario,and a serious warning to every
one of us.
That really screws up the old head.
[Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,<CR>=abort:2
[Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit]
EXPLOSIVES AND INCENDIARIES by THE
RESEARCHER
INTRODUCTION: The trouble with text
books on chemistry and explosives is
the attitude with which they are
written. They don't say, "Now I know
youuwould like to blow holy hell out of
something just for the fun of it so
here is how to whip up something in
your kitchen to do it". They tell you
how Dupont does it or how the anchient
Chineese did it but not how you can do
it with the resourses and materials
available to you. Even army manuals on
field expedient explosives are almost
useless because they are just outlines
written with the understanding that an
instructor is going to fill in the
blanks. It is a fun game to search out
the materials that can be put together
to make something go "boom". You can
find what you need in grocery stores,
hardware stores, and farm supplies. An
interesting point to remember is that
it is much easier to make a big e
xplosion than a small one. It is very
difficult for a home experimenter to
make a firecracker, but a bomb capable
of blowing the walls out of a building
is easy. The king of explosives for the
do-it-yourselfer is black powder. It is
easy to make and when properly confined
is capable of devestating power. CLOSEINFORM
ootable powder used for
spraying. It is cheap and works well.
Some drug stores sell sulfur under the
name Flowers of Sulfur. If you use
Nitrate of Soda, it will be in the form
of prills (little round beads). Bake it
in an oven at 250 degrees for 10-15
minutes to drive out the moisture. Then
dump a cup or two into a blender and
switch it on. It will do a beautiful
job of reducing it to powder. Buy a bag
of charcoal briquettes at a grocery
store. Put a few briquettes in a rag
and pound with hammer. Dump the result
into the blender, grind, then strain
through a tea strainer. Mix by volume:
6 parts potassium or Sodium Nitrate, 2
parts powdered charcoal, 1 part sulfur.
This mixture will burn if ignited and
will explode if ignited while tightly
confined. It can be greatly improved,
however, by processing it as follows:
Moisten with water until it will stick
together when pinched between thumb and
finger. Press it into a disposable
aluminum pie pan. Bake in a preheated
oven at 250 degrees for about 30
minutes--get it totally dry. Grind into
as fine a powder as possible. A mortar
and pestle is best. If you use a
blender at this point, there is a
danger of explosion. It is not very
sensative to friction or impact, but is
very sensative to sparks. If you
followed these directions, you should
have a fine slate-grey powder.
When baking black powder, remember to
preheat the oven. Place your pie pan
approximately in the center of the
oven. Do not set it on the bottom of
the oven. These warnings are to prevent
hot spots that could ignite the powder
causing a fire or explosion. Something
went wrong once when my father-in-law
was doing this and it blew the door
right off the oven. His training in
military demolitions included field
expedient explosives. The point is that
things can go wrong even when you know
what you are doing. Protect yourself at
all times. Use common sense. Wear
safety glasses; don't stand in front of
oven, etc. HOW TO MAKE BLACKMATCH FUSE:
Take a flat piece of plastic or metal
(brass or aluminum are easy to work
with and won't rust). Drill a 1/16th
inch hole through it. This is your die
for sizing the fuse. You can make fuses
as big as you want, but this is the
right size for the pipe bomb I will be
getting to later. To about 1/2 cup of
black powder add water to make a thin
paste. Add 1/2 teaspoon of corn starch.
Cut some one foot lengths of cotton
thread. Use cotton, not silk or thread
made from synthetic fibers. Put these
together until you have a thickness
that fills the hole in the die but can
be drawn through very easily. Tie your
bundle of threads together at one end.
Separate the threads and hold the
bundle over the black powder mixture.
Lower the threads with a circular
motion so they start curling onto the
mixture. Press them under with the back
of a teaspoon and continue lowering
them so they coil into the paste. Take
the end you are holding and thread it
through the die. Pull it through
smoothly in one long motion. To dry
your fuse, lay it on a piece of
aluminum foil and bake it in your 250
degree oven or tie it to a grill in the
oven and let it hang down. The fuse
must be baked to make it stiff enough
for the uses it will be put to later.
Air drying will not do the job. If you
used Sodium Nitrate, it will not even
dry completely at room temperatures.
Cut the dry fuse with sissors into 2
inch lengths and store in an air tight
container. Handle this fuse carefuly to
avoid breaking it. You can also use a
firecracker fuse if you have any
available. The fuses can usually be
pulled out without breaking. To give
yourself some running time, you will be
extending these fuses (blackmatch or
firecracker fuse) with sulfured wick.
HOW TO MAKE SULFURED WICK: Use heavy
cotton string about 1/8th inch in
diameter. You can find some at a garden
supply for tieing up your tomatoes. Be
sure it's cotton. You can test it by
lighting one end. It sould continue to
burn after the match is removed and
when blown out will have a smoldering
coal on the end. Put some sulfur in a
small container like a small pie pan
and melt it in the oven at 250 degrees.
It will melt into a transparent yellow
liquid. If it starts turning brown, it
is too hot. Coil about a one foot
length of string into it. The melted
sulfur will soak in quickly. When
saturated, pull it out and tie it up to
cool and harden. It can be cut to
desired lengths with sissors. 2 inches
is about right. These wicks will burn
slowly with a blue flame and do not
blow out easily in a moderate wind.
They will not burn through a hole in a
metal pipe, but are great for extending
your other fuse. They will not throw
off sparks. Blackmatch generates sparks
which can ignite it along its length
causing unpredictable burning times.
Now you have the basic ingredients to
shake the earth like thunder. In the
next installment or two, I will tell
you how to put it all together to do ju
st that. You will find that you have
baked a very deadly pie. I have twice
been accused of setting off dynamite in
the woods. The explosive power of your
little grey powder may exceed your
expectations, so choose your testing
ground with care.
HOW TO MAKE A PIPE BOMB: Buy a section
of metal water pipe 1/2 by 6 inches
long, threaded on both ends. Buy two
metal caps to fit. These are standard
items in hardware stores. Drill a
1/16th hole in the center of the pipe.
This is easy with a good drill bit.
Hanson is a good brand to use. Screw a
metal cap tightly on one end. Fill the
pipe to within 1/2 inch of the top with
black powder. Do not pack the powder.
Don't even tap the bottom of the pipe
to make it settle. You want the powder
loose. For maximum explosive effect,
you need dry, fine powder sitting loose
in a very rigid container. Wipe off any
powder that has gotten onto the top or
threads of the pipe. Gently screw on
the second cap. Hand tighten only.
Place a small piece of tape over the
hole and go to your test site. Remove
the tape and insert a two inch piece of
black match fuse or a firecracker fuse
into the hole. Place the bomb behind a
large rock or tree. Using thread or
string, lightly tie a 2 inch piece of
sulfured wick to the end of the fuse.
Avoid letting the wick touch any
objects. This might cause it to go out.
Light the wick and head for cover in a
direction that keeps the rock or tree
between you and the bomb at all times.
Get behind cover at least 50 yards
away. You may not expect such a large
explosion from such a small object. Be
extra cautious until You have done this
a time or two and it gets real what you
are dealing with. The pipe will be
blown to pieces which will fly through
the air like bullets. An accident could
seriously wound or kill you. This is
not a big firecracker. It is more like
a hand grenade. The size of the bomb
can be increased by using a larger pipe
and caps. To make a big noise without
blowing up your pipe, cap one end only.
Drill a 1/16 hole at the top of the
threads at the capped end. Put in about
3 to 4 rounded teaspoonsful of powder.
Pack about 2 inches of wadding on top
of the powder. Toilet paper or kleenex
is good for this. Pack it tight. Open
up a safety pin and stick it into the
hole. Work it around to loosen up the
powder so a fuse can be inserted. When
this goes off, the recoil will be
tremendous. You will loose your pipe
unless you brace it securely against
something. The pipe can be reloaded and
used again. A fun trick is to mount the
pipe pointing upward. Drop a tin can
over the open end and light the fuse.
The can will be blown high into the
air. Campbell's soup cans are great for
this. HOW TO MAKE ROCKET FUEL: This is
easy to make and fun to play with. Mix
equal parts by volume Potassium or So
dium Nitrate and granulated sugar. Pour
a big spoonful of this into a pile.
Stick a piece of blackmatch fuse into
it; light; and step back. This is also
a very hot incendiary. A little
imagination will suggest a lot of
experiments for this. ANOTHER ROCKET
FUEL: Mix equal parts by volume of zinc
dust and sulfur. Watch out if you
experiment with this. It goes off in a
sudden flash. It is not a powerful
explosive, but is violent stuff even
when not confined because of its fast
burning rate. --- As I continue from
this point some of the ingredients are
going to be harder to get without going
through a chemical supply. I try to
avoid this. I happen to know that B.
Prieser Scientific (local to my area)
has been instructed by the police to
send them the names of anyone buying
chemicals in certain combinations. For
example, if a person were to buy
Sulfuric acid, Nitric acid and Toluene
(the makings for TNT) in one order the
police would be notified. I will do the
best I can to tell you how to make the
things you need from commonly available
materials, but I don't want to leave
out something really good because you
might have to scrounge for an
ingredient. I am guessing you would
prefer it that way.
HOW TO MAKE AN EXPLOSIVE FROM COMMON
MATCHES: The word "safety" in safety
matches is misleading. The chemical on
the heads of safety matches is a
powerful explosive. It is similar to
black powder but has a lower ignition
temperature (more sensative to heat)
and unlike black powder is easily
detonated by impact. This feature moves
it up into the high explosives class.
To test this, lay a paper safety match
on a hard flat surface and hit the head
sharply with a hammer. What do you
know! It goes bang! To collect a
quantity of this explosive, it is best
to use wooden safety matches. Buy
several cartons. They're cheap. Note
that these should be safety matches,
not the strike anywhere kind. Pinch the
head near the bottom with a pair of
wire cutters to break it up; then use
the edges of the cutters to scrape off
the loose material. It gets easy with
practice. You can do this while
watching TV and collect enough for a
bomb without dieing of boredom. Once
you have a good batch of it, you can
load it into a pipe instead of black
powder. Be careful not to get any in
the threads, and wipe off any that gets
on the end of the pipe. Never try to
use this stuff for rocket fuel. A
science teacher was killed that way.
Just for fun while I'm on the subject
of matches, did you know that you can
strike a safety match on a window pane?
Hold a paper match between your thumb
and first finger. With your second
finger, press the head firmly against a
large window. Very quickly, rub the
match down the pane about 2 feet while
maintaining the pressure. The friction
will generate enough heat to light the
match. Another fun trick is the match
rocket. Tightly wrap the top half of a
paper match with foil. Set it in the
top of a pop bottle at a 45 degree
angle. Hold a lighted match under the
head until it ignites. If you got it
right, the match will zip up and hit
the ceiling. I just remembered the
match guns I used to make when I was a
kid. These are made from a bicycle
spoke. At one end of the spoke is a
piece that screws off. Take it off and
screw it on backwards. You now have a
piece of stiff wire with a small hollow
tube on one end. Pack the material from
a couple of wooden safety matches into
the tube. Force the stem of a match
into the hole. It sould fit very
tightly. Hold a lighted match under the
tube until it gets hot enough to ignite
the powder. It goes off with a bang.
--- For later projects, like a chemical
time delay fuse, you will need some
concentrated sulfuric acid. So, I
better tell you how to make it. HOW TO
MAKE CONCENTRATED SULFURIC ACID FROM
BATTERY ACID: Go to an auto supply
store and ask for "a small battery
acid". This should only cost a few
dollars (about 4 dollars). What you
will get is about a gallon of dilute
sulfuric acid. Put a pint of this into
a heat resistant glass container. The
glass pitchers used for making coffee
are perfect. Do not use a metal
container. Use an extension cord to set
up a hotplate out doors. Boil the acid
until white fumes appear. As soon as
you see the white fumes, turn off the
hot plate and let the acid cool. Pour
the now concentrated acid into a glass
container. The container must have a
glass stopper or plastic cap -- no
metal. It must be air tight. Otherwize,
the acid will quickly absorb moisture
from the air and become diluted. Want
to know how to make a time bomb that
doesn't tick and has no wires or
batteries? Hold on to your acid and
follow me into the next installment.
HOW TO MAKE A CHEMICAL TIME DELAY FUSE:
To get an understanding of how this is
going to work, mix up equal parts by
volume Potassium chlorate and
granulated sugar. Pour a spoonful of
the mixture in a small pile and make a
depression in the top with the end of a
spoon. Using a medicine dropper, place
one drop of concentrated sulfuric acid
in the depression and step back. It
will snap and crackle a few times and
then burst into vigorous flames. To
make the fuse, cut about 2 inches off a
plastic drinking straw. Tamp a small
piece of cotton in one end. On top of
this put about an inch of the
clorate/sugar mixture. Now lightly tamp
in about a quarter inch of either glass
wool or asbestos fibers. Secure this
with the open end up and drop in 3 or 4
drops of sulfuric acid. After a few
minutes the acid will soak through the
fibers and ignite the mixture. The time
delay can be controled by the amount of
fiber used and by varying how tightly
it is packed. Don't use cotton for
this. The acid will react with cotton
and become weakened in the process. By
punching a hole in the side of the
straw, a piece of blackmatch or other
fuse can be inserted and used to set
off the device of your choice.
Potassium chlorate was very popular
with the radical underground. It can be
used to make a wide variety of
explosives and incendiaries, some of
them extremely dangerous to handle. The
radicals lost several people that way.
But, don't worry. I am not going to try
to protect you from yourself. I have
decided to tell all. I will have more
to say about Potassium chlorate, but
for now, let's look at a couple of
interesting electric fuses.
HOW TO MAKE AN ELECTRIC FUSE: Take a
flashlight bulb and place it glass tip
down on a file. Grind it down on the
file until there is a hole in the end.
Solder one wire to the case of the bulb
and another to the center conductor at
the end. Fill the bulb with black
powder or powdered match head. One or
two flashlight batteries will heat the
fillament in the bulb causing the
powder to ignite. ANOTHER ELECTRIC
FUSE: Take a medium grade of steel wool
and pull a strand out of it. Attach it
to the ends of two pieces of copper
wire by wrapping it around a few turns
and then pinch on a small piece of
solder to bind the strand to the wire.
You want about 1/2 inch of steel strand
between the wires. Number 18 or 20 is a
good size wire to use. Cut a 1/2 by 1
inch piece of cardboard of the type
used in match covers. Place a small
pile of powdered match head in the
center and press it flat. place the
wires so the steel strand is on top of
and in contact with the powder.
Sprinkle on more powder to cover the
strand. The strand should be surounded
with powder and not touching anything
else except the wires at its ends.
Place a piece of blackmatch in contact
with the powder. Now put a piece of
masking tape on top of the lot, and
fold it under on the two ends. Press it
down so it sticks all around the
powder. The wires are sticking out on
one side and the blackmatch on the
other. A single flashlight battery will
set this off. ELECTRIC FUSE # 3: An
excellent electric fuse can be bought
ready made at hobby and toy stores. The
y are sold for setting off model
rockets.
MORE SPONTANIOUS COMBUSTION: Some of
the ingredients for these can only be
had from a chemical supply so they are
not my favorites. Look for powdered
aluminum at a good painting supply.
METHOD # 1: Scatter out a few crystals
of chromic anhydride. Drop on a little
ethyl alcohol. It will burst into flame
immediately. METHOD # 2: Mix by weight,
four parts ammonium chloride, one part
ammonium nitrate, four parts powered
zinc. Pour out a small pile of this and
make a depression on top. Put one or
two drops of water in the depression.
Stay well back from this. METHOD # 3:
Put one gram of powdered potassium
permanganate into a paper cup. Drop two
drops of glycerine onto it. After a few
seconds it will burst into flames.
METHOD # 4: Spoon out a small pile of
powdered aluminum. Place a small amount
of sodium peroxide on top of this. A
volume the size of a small pea is about
right. One drop of water will cause
this to ignite in a blinding flare.
METHOD # 5: Mix by volume 3 parts
concentrated sulfuric acid with 2 parts
concentrated nitric acid. Hold a
dropper of turpentine about 2 feet
above the mixture. When drops strike
the acid they will burst into flame.
HOW TO MAKE NITROGEN TRIIODIDE: Here
are some notes I took four years ago on
how to make this wild explosive that
can be detonated by a fly walking on
it. Five grams iodine, three grams
potassium iodide, 20 ml. concentrated
ammonium hydroxide, filter paper,
funnel. Stir the potassium iodide and
iodine together in a beaker with 50 ml.
of water. Add the ammonium hydroxide
with stirring until no more precipitate
forms. Filter and spread a thin layer
of the wet solid on several filter
papers. Break the filter papers into
many small pieces and allow to dry for
several hours. On drying, the paper is
extremely sensitive to touch and will
explode violently with the slightest
disturbance. Can be handled safely when
wet. Do not let any sizeable quantity
of the dry material accumulate. --- I
was able to buy concentrated ammonium
hydroxide from a photographic supply.
[ This is the end of the file. Thanks ]
VVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVRM
[Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,<CR>=abort:3
[Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit]
Exploding Light bulbs
(_>Shadow Hawk 1<_)
I actually got this from a movie, and
have tried it [IT WORKS!!!]. Ok you may
have to do this a couple times before
you get it. Heres what you need:
A few light bulbs
Torch [one that will melt glass, radio
shack single cylender model will
do]
Some gasoline
Some liquid soap
Some epoxy glue
Heres what you do:
1) Make a hole in the light bulb like
this:
*
---
: :
Make hole here : : or here.
\ / \ /
/ \
: :
: :
\---/
Not here!!!!!
2) Making the hole, like in the diagram
[dont make it on the bottom, because if
the seal you will make should break,
the person/room you want to eliminate
will notice the hole [and the gasoline
on the floor!!!] whereas the if its on
top it will still work...
3) Now carefully fill the light bulb
about half full with gas, and then the
rest with soap [hold on angle if you
have to]. Now epoxy the hole shut, and
screw it in...
have phun
(_>Shadow Hawk 1<_)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------Reply to00JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDFROMSYS$mKBSGS
[Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,<CR>=abort:4
[Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit]
MAKING THERMITE
BY X CALIBUR
THERMITE IS A POWERFUL SUBSTANCE WHICH CAN BURN THROUGH PRACTICALLY
ANYTHING, SAVE TUNGSTEN. IT IS SPECIALLY OF USE IN TRYING TO CRACK
OPEN A FORTRESS FONE. NOW HERE'S HOW YOU MAKE IT. IT IS VERY SIMPLE.
THE FIRST STEP IN MAKING THERMITE IS TO MAKE HEMATITE. IN LAYMAN'S TERMS,
EMATITE IS IRON OXIDE (RUST). HERE IS GOOD METHOD OF MAKING LARGE QUANTITIES
OF RUST. OU WILL ELECTROLYZE A METAL ROD, SUCH AS A COMMON NAIL. YOU WILL
NEED A SURCE OF DC POWER AS WELL. AN ELECTRIC TRAIN TRANSFORMER IS PERFECT.
ATTATCH THE ROD TO THE POSITIVE WIRE. THEN PLACE THE ROD AND THE NEGATIVE
^^^^^^^^
WIRE IN OPPOSITE SIDES OF A GLASS JAR FILLED WITH WATER. PUT A LITTLE SALT
IN THE WATER, JUST ENOUGH TO MAKE IT CONDUCT WELL (A TEASPOON). LET THE
SETUP SIT OVERNIGHT. IN THE MORNING, HERE WILL BE A DARK RED CRUD IN THE
JAR. FILTER ALL THE CRUD OUT OF THE WATER OR JUST FISH IT OUT WITH A SPOON.
NOW YOU WILL NEED TO DRY IT OUT. HEAT IT I AN IRON POT UNTILL IT ALL TURNS
A NICE LIGHT RED.
THE OTHER INGREDIANT YOU WILL NEED IS ALUMINUM FILINGS. YOU CAN EITHER
FILE DOWN A BAR OF ALUMINUM, OR (AS I SUGGEST) BUY ALUMINUM FILINGS AT
YOUR LOCAL HARDWARE SHOP. (IF YOU BUY THE BAR USE NO LESS THN 94% PURE
ALUMINUM. IT IS CALLED DURALUMIN.) THAT'S ALMOST IT. NOW, MIX TOGETHER
THE RUST AND ALUMINUM FILINGS. THE RATIO SHOULD BE 8 GRAMS OF RUST PER
3 GRAMS OF ALUMINUM FILINGS. THAT'S THERMITE!
NOW, TO LIGHT IT! STICK A LENGTH OF MAGNESIUM RIBBON IN A PILE OF THE
THERMITE. (EITHER STEAL IT FROM CHEM LAB OR BUY IT AT YOUR LOCAL HARDWARE
STORE. IF NOT, ORDER FROM A CHEMICAL SUPPLY HOUSE. IT'S PRETTY CHEAP.)
THE RIBBON SHOULD STICK INTO THE THERMITE LIKE A FUSE. NOW YOU LIGHT THE
MAGNESIUM WITH A BLOWTORCH. (DON'T WORRY. THE TORCH ISN'T HOT ENOUGH TO
LIGHT THE THERMITE.) WHEN THE BURNING MAGNESIUM REACHES THE THERMITE, IT
WILL LIGHT. WHEN THE THERMITE BURNS, GET THE HELL BACK! THAT STUFF CAN
VAPORIZE CARBON STEEL. IT DOES WONDERS ON HUMAN FLESH.
THIS FILE UPLOADED BY THE MYSTIC
[Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,<CR>=abort:5
[Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit]
:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
: :
: HOW TO MAKE A WORKING LETTER-BOMB :
: BY :
: :
: THE REBEL WARHEAD :
: :
:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
LETTER BOMBS ARE VERY SIMPLE TO MAKE, BUT THE DIFFICULT PART IS MAKING SURE
IT WILL DETONATE PROPERLY, OR THAT IT IS NOT OBVIOUS THAT IT IS A BOMB.
MIXTURES:
ABOUT 75% ALUMINUM POWDER WITH 25% IRON POWER IS BEST. THIS IS A LIGHT
VERSION OF THERMITE, SINCE IT IS IN AN ENCLOSED SPACE (THE ENVELOPE, AS
DESCRIBED BELOW A WAYS). MIX THE ABOVE WELL. THE IDEA IS
THIS: IRON CAN BURN, AT A VERY HIGH TEMPERATURE, BUT IT NEEDS A LITTLE
HELP. THIS IS WHAT THE ALUMINUM IS FOR. ALUMINUM BURNS AT A RELATIVELY
LOW TEMPERATURE, SO IT IS USED AS A CATALYST OF SORTS. MAGNESIUM IS USED
TO FLASH-IGNITE THE ALUMINUM, WHICH THEN BURNS THE IRON, AT A SUITABLE
TEMPERATURE. SINCE THIS IS GOING OFF IN AN ENCLOSED SPACE, IT WILL BURN
MUCH HOTTER AND SLOWER AND WITH MORE VIOLENCE THAN A NORMAL MIX.
I ADVISE YOU PLAY WITH THIS FOR A WHILE, LEARNING YOUR MIXTURE.
NOW FOR THE FUN STUFF:
GET AN INSULATED (PADDED) ENVELOPE, THE TYPE THAT IS DOUBLE LAYERED.
SEPERATE THE LAYERS. IN THE INNER LAYER GOES THE WONDERFUL MIXTURE,
ONE YOU ARE SATISFIED WITH. KEEP THIS SECTION SEPERATE, BUT IT MIGHT
BE HANDLE TO TOP IT OFF WITH SOME MAGNESIUM. THE OUTER LAYER CAN BE
EITHER MAGNESIUM, FOR A FLASH BOMB, OR POSSIBLY A MATERIAL OF YOUR OWN
CHOICE.
NOW FOR THE DIFFICULT PART! THE FUSE... WE CAN MAKE A FUSE
FROM ANOTHER SET OF CHEMICALS: IODINE CRYSTALS, AND AMONIUM HYDROXIDE,
IN LIQUID FORM. MIX THESE TOGETHER,IN ABOUT AND EQUAL AMOUNT, BUT YOU
MIGHT WANT TO USE A HEAVY AMOUNT OF IODINE IF PRESSED FOR TIME. THESE
FORM A NEW CRYSTALLINE STRUCTURE, ABOUT AND INCH LONG. THESE ARE HIGHLY
VOLATILE, AND I ADVISE KEEPING THEM PROTECTED. THEY HAVE ABOUT THE IMPACT
POWER OF AN M-100 FOR A TEASPOON. I PUT THESE IN A PROTECTIVE CARD-BOARD
LINING, AND PUT THEM AT THE TOP OF THE ENVELOPE. RIG THIS SO IT PUTS
PRESSURE ON
[Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,<CR>=abort:{10
[Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,<CR>=abort:10
[Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit]
The Underground //
[\> 714 - 929 - 0935 </]
How to get Revenge on Someone
-----------------------------
Written by Black Fire and Capt. Cloner
Everyone has an enemy that they would
like to seek revenge on without the
victim knowing who the aggressor is.
Here are ways that have been proven
effective in the field of harrasing
and/or annoying someone.
Call the news papers, and adverise
an arctile similar to this: "You too
can make calls free through MCI, ITT,
and other long distance services just
by making a local call. For more
information, send a self-adressed
stamped envlope to:(fill in name and
adress with zip code)" After this has
appeared in the papers, inform your
local FBI agent or police officer of
his ad. You can also advertise an ad
like this: "Apple //e, 128k, 2 disk
drives, Amdek Color 3 Monitor, Hayes
Smartmodem 1200, and much more. $750
or best offer. (phone number)".
Another prank is to call house at all
hours, and post on all boards that a
new bulletin board is opening up at
his number. Get everyone you know to
call him at all times (preferably late
at night. Call answering machines,
and give the persons number and tell
them to call right away. Also during
the day you can look up people in the
phone that have a "Mr. and Mrs." there,
and the wife will probably be home, but
not the husband, so tell the wife to
tell the husband to call your victim
as soon as possible and give number.
Call Taxi's, Exterminators, Pizza
deliverys, Catorers, Garages, Plumers,
Dog Funeral Homes, Flower and Ballon
deliverys, Moving Services, Singing
and Striptease telegrams, Junkyards to
remove garbage, report robberies and
fires at his/her house, Locksmiths,
order oil from several companies
(heating oil), order family portraits
taken at their home, sign him/her up
for the army, call realtors to put
house for sale, Septic cleaners, house
remodelers, call Bell + tell you are
having with phone, call cable company,
and call phone sex lines that call
back and give his number to call back.
Order plane tickets, send brochures of
all shit like colleges, beauty schools,
and all other things that send info.
on their place, and adress it to:
"DICK" and his last name.
To have a little phun, drop by his
house one day, tie a chain to the back
of you truck/car and the other end to
the victims mailbox. Take off, and no
more mailbox. Also, throw eggs at
house and cars, piss on cars and is gas
tank of cars. Get 300 sheets+ of paper
and put in a paper shreader and after
it is in 1" by 1" pieces, throw all
over his lawn in various places.
Another fun thing is to bring along
a baseball bat and knock the shit out
of his mailbox. Send mail with not
enough postage to them, and wrap up
bricks and rocks and put no return
adress on them and drop in a mailbox.
Get a library card out in his name, and
take out books and don't return them.
Lay tacks on either side of tires of
his car so either way he will run over
them. Take weed killer, and pour it
on his flower garden or put your
initials on his front yard with it so
it will show up with dead grass. You
can also use the old trick of laying
dog shit on his front porch. Pour
grease all over driveway and steps,
dump your garbage cans over front yard,
when he puts his garbage at the end
of the driveway, dump the cans over the
street so he will have to pick it up in
the morning. Smear warm tar on his
car windshield, and that shit isn't
coming off. Crazy Glue or stick gum
over and in his car locks, and if he
goes to school do the same to his
locker. Catch fish, and let them sit
out in the sun for a day, and that
night lay the fish in their front yard.
Lay cow shit in their air conditioner,
and stick sticks in the between the
fan blades for the air conditioner.
The toilet paper around their trees is
always good, and wet toilet paper and
stand out in the street and whip them
at their house, and when it dries, it
is hard as rock stuck to their house.
If they leave toys out, stick skate-
boards under car tires, rip heads off
of dolls, pull seats out bikes, and
let air out of bike tires. You can
also ride by in the car with your BB
gun, and try your target practice.
Some of this has been tried, and some
not, but remember that it is best to
be near them when these happen, so you
can see their faces. Never hint who
you are, and warn that you are not
finshed yet. The best weapon you have
is your phone, because they can't keep
their phone off the hook 24 hrs. a day.
If they take the phone off the hook,
try back in 1/2 hour, and it will be
back on. Most of these have been
proven effective, and the others will
most likely effective. We have sat
here for hours thinking of every
possible method of harrasing, bothing,
and annoying someone to the point of
insanity. This has been written by
Black Fire with the help of Captain
Cloner. We will be writing more as
soon as more ideas are tested. You
will be hearing more from us. Have
fun, and remember this is only a game!
(> Black Fire <)
----------
- Captain Cloner -
--------------
Q/uit Which ->
done
[Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,<CR>=abort:11
[Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit]
--------------------------------------
[ ]
[ HOME EXPLOSIVES ]
[ ]
[ FROM: INGY ]
[ <THE COMMANDERS ]
[ ]
[ TYPED UP AND UPLOADED BY: ]
[ SID VICIOUS ]
[ ]
--------------------------------------
P.S. DON'T KILL YOURSELF...
.......................................
->UNSTABLE EXPLOSIVE<-
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1) MIX SOLID NITRIC IODINE WITH HOUSE-
HOLD AMMONIA.
2) WAIT OVERNIGHT
3) POUR OFF LIQUID
4) DRY MUD ON BOTTOM TO HARD (LIKE CON-
CRETE)
5) THROW SOMETHING AT IT!
........................................
->SMOKE BOMB<-
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1) MIX: 3 PARTS SUGAR
----------------------
6 PARTS EPSON SALTS
2) PUT IN A TIN CAN, AND ONTO A LOW
FLAME (LIKE A LIGHTER)
3) LET GEL & HARDEN
4) PUT MATCH IN AS A FUSE.
5) LIGHT AND RUN LIKE HELL 'CAUSE 4
POUNDS WILL FILL A CITY BLOCK...
........................................
->MEDIUM EXPLOSIVE<-
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1) MIX: 7 PARTS POTASSIUM CHLORATE
--------------------------
1 PART VASELINE
2) TO IGNITE, USE AN ELECTRIC CHARGE OR
A FUSE.
.........................................
->CAR BOMB<-
^^^^^^^^^^^^
1) PUT LIQUID DRANO INTO A PILLBOX (THE
KIND YOU GET WHEN YOU'RE ON A PRE-
SCRIPTION, NOTHING ELSE WILL WORK)
2) CLOSE LID & POP THE THING INTO THE GAS
TANK
3) WAIT 5 MINUTES.
4) RUN
.........................................
->PLASTIC EXPLOSIVE<-
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1)MIX: 2 PARTS VASELINE
------------------
1 PART GASOLINE
2) IGNITE WITH AN ELECTRIC CHARGE
[Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,<CR>=abort:12
[Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit]
]]]]]]]]]]#[[[[[[[[[[
]] LOCK PICKING [[
]] BY [[
]] ^^^NIGHTWING^^^ [[
]]]]]]]]]]#[[[[[[[[[[
SO YOU WANT TO BE A CRIMINAL. WELL, IF YOU ARE WANTING TO BE LIKE
JAMES BOND AND OPEN A LOCK IN FIFTEEN SECONDS, GO TO HOLLYWOOD
BECAUSE THAT'S THE ONLY PLACE YOUR GONNA DO IT. EVEN EXPERIENCED
LOCKSMITHS CAN SPEND 5 TO 10 MINUTES ON A LOCK IF THEY'RE
UNLUCKY. IF YOU ARE LOOKING FOR EXTREMELY QUICK ACCESS, LOOK
ELSEWHERE.
THE FOLLOWING INSTRUCTIONS WILL PERTAIN MOSTLY TO THE
"LOCK-IN-KNOB" TYPE LOCK, SINCE IT IS THE EASIEST TO PICK. IF
THERE IS SUFFICIENT DEMAND, I WILL LATER WRITE A FILE DISCUSSING
THE OTHER FORMS OF ENTRANCE, INCLUDING DEAD-BOLT.
FIRST OF ALL, YOU NEED A PICK SET. IF YOU KNOW A LOCKSMITH, GET
HIM TO MAKE YOU A SET. THIS WILL BE THE BEST POSSIBLE SET FOR YOU
TO USE. IF YOU FIND A LOCKSMITH WILLING TO SUPPLY A SET, DON'T
GIVE UP HOPE. IT IS POSSIBLE TO MAKE YOUR OWN, IF YOU HAVE ACCESS
TO A GRINDER (YOU CAN USE A FILE, BUT IT TAKES FOREVER.)
THE THING YOU NEED IS AN ALLEN WRENCH SET (VERY SMALL). THESE
SHOULD BE SMALL ENOUGH TO FIT INTO THE KEYHOLE SLOT. NOW, BEND
THE LONG END OF THE ALLEN WRENCH AT A SLIGHT ANGLE..(NOT 90 DEG.)
IT SHOULD LOOK SOMETHING LIKE THIS:
#1
\\
\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\ (THIS IS
THE HANDLE
\\\ THAT WAS
ALREADY
\\\ (HERE.)
\\\
\\\
\\\
NOW, TAKE YOUR PICK TO A GRINDER OR A FILE AND SMOOTH THE END
(#1) UNTIL IT'S ROUNDED SO IT WON'T HANG INSIDE THE LOCK. TEST
YOUR TOOL OUT ON DOORKNOBS AT YOUR HOUSE TO SEE IF IT WILL SLIDE
IN AND OUT SMOOTHLY. NOW, THIS IS WHERE THE SCREWDRIVER COMES IN.
IS IT SMALL ENOUGH FOR IT AND YOUR PICK TO BE USED IN THE SAME
LOCK AT THE SAME TIME, ONE ABOVE THE OTHER ?
LETS HOPE SO, BECAUSE THAT'S THE ONLY WAY YOUR GONNA OPEN IT.
IN THE COMING INSTRUCTIONS, PLEASE REFER TO THIS CHART OF THE
INTERIOR OF A LOCK:
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX| K
# # # # # # | E
# # # # | Y
* * | H
* * * * * * | O
| L
| E
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX|
#= UPPER TUMLER PIN
X= CYLINDER WALL
(THIS IS A GREATLY SIMPLIFIED DRAWING)
THE OBJECT IS TO PRESS THE PIN UP SO THAT THE SPACE BETWEEN THE
UPPER PIN AND THE LOWER PIN IS LEVEL WITH THE CYLINDER WALL. NOW,
IF YOU PUSH A PIN UP, ITS TENDANCY IS TO FALL BACK DOWN, RIGHT ?
THAT IS WHERE THE SCREWDRIVER COMES IN.
INSERT THE SCREWDRIVER INTO THE SLOT AND TURN. THIS TENSION WILL
KEEP THE "SOLVED" PINS FROM FALLING BACK DOWN. NOW, WORK FROM THE
BACK OF THE LOCK TO THE FRONT, AND WHEN YOU'RE THROUGH.....
THERE WILL BE A CLICK, THE SCREWDRIVER WILL TURN FREELY, AND THE
DOOR WILL OPEN. DON'T GET DISCOURAGE ON YOUR FIRST TRY! IT WILL
PROBABLY TAKE YOU ABOUT 20-30 MINUTES YOUR FIRST TIME. AFTER THAT
YOU WILL QUICKLY IMPROVE WITH PRACTICE.
THIS IS BY NO MEANS THE MOST EFFICIENT WAY OF ENTERING A HOUSE.
IF YOU WOULD LIKE ANOTHER ITEM OR TWO DEVOTED TO THESE OTHER
WAYS, LET THE SYSOP KNOW.
[Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,<CR>=abort:13
[Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit]
READ> NAPALM GRENADE
=&=&=Napalm Made Easy=&=&=
$^$^$^$^$^$^$^$^$^
Typed and uploaded by:
-------------------------------=>Sir Knight<=----------------------------------
Napalm is in itself a very simple substance...it can be used for many
things...(i.e. getting back at your neighor!!)Here's what'cha need:
===============================================================================
Gasoline Joy or Palmolive(I prefer Joy)
A Coke can with a sawed off top Ammonia Pellets
A Drill Some bendable wire
A Nail
===============================================================================
First,make a mixture of 1/2 Joy(my favorite),and 1/2 Gasoline.
Take the coke can, and fill it half full with this wonderful mixture...
it should look like this:
-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-
! !
! ! <-Coke Can
! !
!=============!
!=============!
!=============! <-Mixture
!=============!
---------------
Now,take the drill(or some sharp object)and put a hole through the amm-
onia pellet big enough for the nail.. Put the nail through the pellet(which
I might add can be picked up at any farm supply store)and wire that to the
top of the can so the nail can be slipped out easily,allowing the pellet to
drop...WARNING: DO NOT LET THAT PELLET FALL INTO THE MIXTURE,AS YOUR
WIFE WILL SOON BECOME A WIDOW!! Wait until you are ready to set it off to
let it drop...It should look like this:
(========<+>=========)
! ^^Nail ^^Pellet !
! !
! !
! !
!====================!
!====================! <-Mixture
!====================!
!====================!
----------------------
And there is your Napalm grenade...if there is enough demand,
there will be another article on more advanced Napalm......
(>
(>
[Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,<CR>=abort:16
[Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit]
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
$ $
$ BLOWING UP A CAR $
$ ------- -- - --- $
$ $
$ AN ARTICLE FROM THE BOOK: $
$ $
$ THE POOR MAN'S JAMES BOND $
$ BY KURT SAXON $
$ $
$ $
$ Typed and Uploaded by: $
$ $
$$$$$$-=>Lex Luthor<=-$$$$$$
$ $
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
The best methods of blowing up a car
requires getting under the hood. Explo
sives are placed as near the occupants
as possilbe. NOTE- THIS ARTICLE IS FOR
THOSE OF YOU WHO ARE NOT CONTENT TO
PSYCH OUT THE DRIVER WITH SOME PRACT
ICAL JOKE. IF YOU HAVE HIS LAST RIDE
IN MIND, THEN READ ON:
The fuse, homemade, commercial or
safetey, is wrapped a few turns around
the exhause manifold. After a few min-
utes on the road the exhaust manifold
gets almost red hot and ignites the
fuse.
This way is more certain than wiring
the car because since it blows up on
the road the wreck will do the victem
in even if the blast doesn't. Besides,
if the intended victim is a passenger
instead of the driver, the driver may
start the engine before the passenger
gets into the car... You can see how
embarrassing that would be to the
bomber, can't you?
Old-fashioned types, like the Mafia,
love to wire cars. They are too set in
thier ways to change and besides, they
get a charge out of seeing a car blow
up before thier eyes instead of
imagining it going to hell on the road.
They usually use about three sticks
of dynamite, two lengths of electric
wire with two alligator clips for quick
attachment, and an electric blasting
cap. The cap is stuck into a dynamite
stick and its two wires are connected
to the two electric wires. Then one
alligator clip is clamped to the input
side of the coil and the other is
fastened to any metal surface in the
car's frame as a ground.
This is very simple and you'd think
anyone could do it. But sure enough,
there are always morons who will attach
one clamp to a spark plug and one to a
ground. This usually results in mis
fires and no end of frustrations.
----------------------------------------
Call The Morgue at:(201)376-4462
The Armoury at:(201)267-1207
[Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,<CR>=abort:19
[Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit]
CHEMIST'S CORNER ARTICLE #1: EXPLOSIVES
BY ZAPHOD BEEBLEBROX/MPG
UPLOADED BY -THE TRIXTER-
THIS ARTICLE DEALS WITH THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR CREATING SOME DANGEROUS EXPLOSIVE
S. IF YOU INTEND TO MAKE ANY OF THESE EXPLOSIVES, DO SO IN SMALL AMOUNTS ONLY,
AS THEY ARE ALL DANGEROUS AND COULD SERIOUSLY INJURE OR KILL YOU IF DONE IN LAR
GER AMOUNTS. IF YOU DON'T KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT CHEMISTRY, DON'T DO THESE EXPERIM
ENTS! I AM NOT JOKING IN GIVING THIS WARNING. UNLESS YOU HAVE A DEATH WISH, YOU
SHOULDN'T TRY ANY OF THE FOLLOWING UNLESS YOU HAVE HAD PRIOR EXPERIENCE WITH C
HEMICALS.
I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURY OR DAMAGE CAUSED BY PEOPLE USING THIS INFO
RMATION. IT IS PROVIDED FOR USE BY PEOPLE KNOWLEDGABLE IN CHEMISTRY WHO ARE INT
ERESTED IN SUCH EXPERIMENTS AND CAN SAFELY HANDLE SUCH EXPERIMENTS.
===============================================================================
I. COMMON "WEAK" EXPLOSIVES.
A. GUNPOWDER:
75% POTASSIUM NITRATE
15% CHARCOAL
10% SULFUR
THE CHEMICALS SHOULD BE GROUND INTO A FINE POWDER (SEPERATELY!) WITH A MO
RTER & PESTLE. IF GUNPOWDER IS IGNITED IN THE OPEN, IT BURNS FIERCELY, BUT IF I
N A CLOSED SPACE IT BUILDS UP PRESSURE FROM THE RELEASED GASES AND CAN EXPLODE
THE CONTAINER. GUNPOWDER WORKS LIKE THIS: THE POTASSIUM NITRATE OXIDIZES THE CH
ARCOAL AND SULFUR, WHICH THEN BURN FIERCELY. CARBON DIOXIDE AND SULFUR DIOXIDE
ARE THE GASES RELEASED.
B. AMMONAL:
AMMONAL IS A MIXTURE OF AMMONIUM NITRATE (A STRONG OXIDIZER) WITH ALUMINUM
POWDER (THE 'FUEL' IN THIS CASE). I AM NOT SURE OF THE % COMPOSITION FOR AMMON
AL, SO YOU MAY WANT TO EXPERIMENT A LITTLE USING SMALL AMOUNTS.
C. CHEMICALLY IGNITED EXPLOSIVES:
1. A MIXTURE OF 1 PART POTASSIUM CHLORATE TO 3 PARTS TABLE SUGAR (SUCROSE) BU
RNS FIERCELY AND BRIGHTLY (SIMILAR TO THE BURNING OF MAGNESIUM) WHEN 1 DROP OF
CONCENTRATED SULFURIC ACID IS PLACED ON IT. WHAT OCCURS IS THIS: WHEN THE ACID
IS ADDED IT REACTS WITH THE POTASSIUM CHLORATE TO FORM CHLORINE DIOXIDE, WHICH
EXPLODES ON FORMATION, BURNING THE SUGAR AS WELL.
2. USING VARIOUS CHEMICALS, I HAVE DEVELOPED A MIXTURE THAT WORKS VERY WELL F
OR IMITATING VOLCANIC ERUPTIONS. I HAVE GIVEN IT THE NAME 'MPG VOLCANITE' (TM).
HERE IT IS: POTASSIUM CHLORATE + POTASSIUM PERCHLORATE + AMMONIUM NITRATE + AM
MONIUM DICHROMATE + POTASSIUM NITRATE + SUGAR + SULFUR + IRON FILINGS + CHARCOA
L + ZINC DUST + SOME COLORING AGENT. (SCARLET= STRONTIUM NITRATE, PURPLE= IODIN
E CRYSTALS, YELLOW= SODIUM CHLORIDE, CRIMSON= CALCIUM CHLORIDE, ETC...).
3. SO, DO YOU THINK WATER PUTS OUT FIRES? IN THIS ONE, IT STARTS IT. MIXTURE:
AMMONIUM NITRATE + AMMONIUM CHLORIDE + IODINE + ZINC DUST. WHEN A DROP OR TWO
OF WATER IS ADDED, THE AMMONIUM NITRATE FORMS NITRIC ACID WHICH REACTS WITH THE
ZINC TO PRODUCE HYDROGEN AND HEAT. THE HEAT VAPORIZES THE IODINE (GIVING OFF P
URPLE SMOKE) AND THE AMMONIUM CHLORIDE (BECOMES PURPLE WHEN MIXED WITH IODINE V
APOR). IT ALSO MAY IGNITE THE HYDROGEN AND BEGIN BURNING.
AMMONIUM NITRATE: 8 GRAMS
AMMONIUM CHORIDE: 1 GRAM
ZINC DUST: 8 GRAMS
IODINE CRYSTALS: 1 GRAM
4. POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE + GLYCERINE WHEN MIXED PRODUCES A PURPLE-COLORED FL
AME IN 30 SECS-1 MIN. WORKS BEST IF THE POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE IS FINELY GROUND
.
5. CALCIUM CARBIDE + WATER RELEASES ACETYLENE GAS (HIGHLY FLAMMABLE GAS USED
IN BLOW TORCHES...)
II. THERMITE REACTION.
THE THERMITE REACTION IS USED IN WELDING, BECAUSE IT GENERATES MOLTEN IRON AN
D TEMPERATURES OF 3500 C (6000F+). IT USES ONE OF THE PREVIOUS REACTIONS THAT I
TALKED ABOUT TO START IT!
STARTER=POTASSIUM CHLORATE + SUGAR
MAIN PT.= IRON (III) OXIDE + ALUMINUM POWDER (325 MESH OR FINER)
PUT THE POTASSIUM CHLORARE + SUGAR AROUND AND ON TOP OF THE MAIN PT. TO STA
RT THE REACTION, PLACE ONE DROP OF CONCENTRATED SULFURIC ACID ON TOP OF THE STA
RTER MIXTURE. STEP BACK! THE RATIOS ARE: 3 PARTS IRON(III) OXIDE TO 1 PART ALUM
INUM POWDER TO 1 PART POTASSIUM CHLORATE TO 1 PART SUGAR.
WHEN YOU FIRST DO IT, TRY 3G:1G:1G:1G!
ALSO, THERE IS AN ALTERNATIVE STARTER FOR THE THERMITE REACTION. THE ALTERNATI
VE IS POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE + GLYCERINE. AMOUNTS: 55G IRON(III) OXIDE, 15G ALU
MINUM POWDER, 25G POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE, 6ML GLYCERINE.
III. NITROGEN-CONTAINING HIGH EXPLOSIVES.
A. MERCURY(II) FULMINATE
TO PRODUCE MERCURY(II) FULMINATE, A VERY SENSITIVE SHOCK EXPLOSIVE, ONE M
IGHT ASSUME THAT IT COULD BE FORMED BY ADDING FULMINIC ACID TO MERCURY. THIS IS
SOMEWHAT DIFFICULT SINCE FULMINIC ACID IS VERY UNSTABLE AND CANNOT BE PURCHASE
D. I DID SOME RESEARCH AND FIGURED OUT A WAY TO MAKE IT WITHOUT FULMINIC ACID.
YOU ADD 2 PARTS NITRIC ACID TO 2 PARTS ALCOHOL TO 1 PART MERCURY. THIS IS THEOR
ETICAL (I HAVE NOT YET TRIED IT) SO PLEASE, IF YOU TRY THIS, DO IT IN VERY* SMA
LL AMOUNTS AND TELL ME THE RESULTS.
B. NITROGEN TRIIODIDE
NITROGEN TRIIODIDE IS A VERY POWERFUL AND VERY SHOCK SENSITIVE EXPLOSIVE.
NEVER STORE IT AND BE CARFUL WHEN YOU'RE AROUND IT- SOUND, AIR MOVEMENTS, AND
OTHER TINY THINGS COULD SET IT OFF.
MATERIALS-
2-3G IODINE
15ML CONC. AMMONIA
8 SHEETS FILTER PAPER
50ML BEAKER
FEATHER MOUNTED ON A TWO METER POLE
EAR PLUGS
TAPE
SPATULA
STIRRING ROD
ADD 2-3G IODINE TO 15ML AMMONIA IN THE 50ML BEAKER. STIR, LET STAND FOR 5 MIN
UTES.
DO THE FOLLOWING WITHIN 5 MINUTES!
RETAIN THE SOLID, DECANT THE LIQUID (POUR OFF THE LIQUID BUT KEEP THE BROWN
SOLID...). SCAPE THE BROWN RESIDUE OF NITROGEN TRIIODIDE ONTO A STACK OF FOUR S
HEETS OF FILTER PAPER. DIVIDE SOLID INTO FOUR PARTS, PUTTING EACH ON A SEPERATE
SHEET OF DRY FILTER PAPER. TAPE IN POSITION, LEAVE TO DRY UNDISTURBED FOR AT L
EAST 30 MINUTES (PREFERRABLY LONGER). TO DETONATE, TOUCH WITH FEATHER. (WEAR EA
R PLUGS WHEN DETONATING OR COVER EARS- IT IS VERY LOUD!)
C. CELLULOSE NITRATE (GUNCOTTON)
COMMONLY KNOWN AS SMOKELESS POWDER, NITROCELLULOSE IS EXACTLY THAT- IT D
OES NOT GIVE OFF SMOKE WHEN IT BURNS.
MATERIALS-
70ML CONCENTRATED SULFURIC ACID
30ML CONCENTRATED NITRIC ACID
5G ABSORBENT COTTON
250ML 1M SODIUM BICARBONATE
250ML BEAKER
ICE BATH
TONGS
PAPER TOWELS
PLACE 250ML BEAKER IN THE ICE BATH, ADD 70ML SULFURIC ACID, 30 ML NITRIC ACI
D. DIVIDE COTTON INTO .7G PIECES. WITH TONGS, IMMERSE EACH PIECE IN THE ACID SO
LUTION FOR 1 MINUTE. NEXT, RINSE EACH PIECE IN 3 SUCCESSIVE BATHS OF 500ML WATE
R. USE FRESH WATER FOR EACH PIECE. THEN IMMERSE IN 250ML 1M SODIUM BICARBONATE.
IF IT BUBBLES, RINSE IN WATER ONCE MORE UNTIL NO BUBBLING OCCURS. SQUEEZE DRY
AND SPREAD ON PAPER TOWELS TO DRY OVERNIGHT.
D. NITROGLYCERINE
NITROGLYCERINE IS A *VERY* DANGEROUS SHOCK SENSITIVE EXPLOSIVE. IT IS USED
IN MAKING DYNAMITE, AMONG OTHER THINGS.
I AM NOT SURE AS TO THE PROPORTIONS AND AMOUNTS OF CHEMICALS TO BE USED, SO
I SHALL USE ESTIMATES.
MATERIALS-
70ML CONC. SULFURIC ACID
30ML CONC. NITRIC ACID
10 ML GLYCERINE
ICE BATH
150ML BEAKER
PUT THE 150ML BEAKER IN THE ICE BATH AND MAKE SURE THAT IT IS VERY COLD. SLO
WLY ADD THE 70ML SULFURIC AND 30ML NITRIC ACIDS TO THE BEAKER, TRYING TO MAINTA
IN A LOW TEMPERATURE. WHEN THE TEMPERATURE STARTS TO LEVEL OFF, ADD ABOUT 10ML
GLYCERINE. IF IT TURNS BROWN OR LOOKS FUNNY, **RUN LIKE HELL**. WHEN NITROGLYCE
RINE TURNS BROWN, THAT MEANS IT'S READY TO EXPLODE... IF IT STAYS CLEAR AND ALL
WORKS WELL, KEEP THE TEMPERATURE AS LOW AS YOU CAN AND LET IT SIT FOR A FEW HO
URS. YOU THEN SHOULD HAVE SOME NITROGLYCERINE, PROBABLY MIXED WITH NITRIC AND S
ULFURIC ACIDS. WHEN YOU SET IT OFF, YOU MUST NOT BE NEARBY. NITROGLYCERINE CAN
FILL 10,000 TIMES ITS ORIGINAL AREA WITH EXPANDING GASES. THIS MEANS THAT IF YO
U HAVE 10ML'S OF NITROGLYCERINE IN THERE, IT WILL PRODUCE SOME 100,000ML'S OF G
ASES.
TO MAKE IT INTO DYNAMITE, THE NITROGLYCERINE MUST BE ABSORBED INTO SOMETHING
LIKE WOOD PULP OR DIAMAECEOUS EARTH (SPELLED SOMETHING LIKE THAT).
IV. OTHER STUFF
A. PEROXYACETONE
PEROXYACETONE IS EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE AND HAS BEEN REPORTED TO BE SHOCK SENSI
TIVE.
MATERIALS-
4ML ACETONE
4ML 30% HYDROGEN PEROXIDE
4 DROPS CONC. HYDROCHLORIC ACID
150MM TEST TUBE
ADD 4ML ACETONE AND 4ML HYDROGEN PEROXIDE TO THE TEST TUBE. THEN ADD 4 DROPS C
ONCENTRATED HYDROCHLORIC ACID. IN 10-20 MINUTES A WHITE SOLID SHOULD BEGIN TO A
PPEAR. IF NO CHANGE IS OBSERVED, WARM THE TEST TUBE IN A WATER BATH AT 40 CELSI
US. ALLOW THE REACTION TO CONTINUE FOR TWO HOURS. SWIRL THE SLURRY AND FILTER I
T. LEAVE OUT ON FILTER PAPER TO DRY FOR AT LEAST TWO HOURS. TO IGNITE, LIGHT A
CANDLE TIED TO A METER STICK AND LIGHT IT (WHILE STAYING AT LEAST A METER AWAY)
.
B. SMOKE SMOKE SMOKE...
THE FOLLOWING REACTION SHOULD PRODUCE A FAIR AMOUNT OF SMOKE. SINCE THIS REA
CTION IS NOT ALL THAT DANGEROUS YOU CAN USE LARGER AMOUNTS IF NECESSARY FOR LAR
GER AMOUNTS OF SMOKE.
6G ZINC POWDER
1G SULFUR POWDER
INSERT A RED HOT WIRE INTO THE PILE, STEP BACK. A LOT OF SMOKE SHOULD BE CR
EATED.
THERE ARE MANY OTHER EXPERIMENTS I COULD HAVE INCLUDED, BUT I WILL SAVE THEM F
OR THE NEXT CHEMIST'S CORNER ARTICLE. UPCOMING ARTICLES WILL INCLUDE GLOW-IN-TH
E-DARK REACTIONS, 'PARTY' REACTIONS, THINGS YOU CAN DO WITH HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS
, AND MORE...
I WOULD LIKE TO GIVE CREDIT TO A BOOK BY SHAKASHARI ENTITLED "CHEMICAL DEMONST
RATIONS" FOR A FEW OF THE PRECISE AMOUNTS OF CHEMICALS IN SOME EXPERIMENTS.
THIS IS IT FOR CHEMIST'S CORNER #1... LOOK FOR CHEMIST'S CORNER #2: WHAT TO DO
WITH HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS...
...ZAPHOD BEEBLEBROX/MPG!
---------------------------------------
THE CHEMIST'S CORNER
ARTICLE #2: HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS
BY ZAPHOD BEEBLEBROX/MPG
THIS ARTICLE DEALS WITH INSTRUCTIONS ON HOW TO DO SOME INTERESTING EXPERIMENTS
WITH COMMON HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS. SOME MAY OR MAY NOT WORK DEPENDING ON THE CON
CENTRATION OF CERTAIN CHEMICALS IN DIFFERENT AREAS AND BRANDS. I WOULD SUGGEST
THAT THE PERSON DOING THESE EXPERIMENTS HAVE SOME KNOWLEDGE OF CHEMISTRY, ESPEC
IALLY FOR THE MORE DANGEROUS EXPERIMENTS.
I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURY OR DAMAGE CAUSED BY PEOPLE USING THIS INFO
RMATION. IT IS PROVIDED FOR USE BY PEOPLE KNOWLEDGABLE IN CHEMISTRY WHO ARE INT
ERESTED IN SUCH EXPERIMENTS AND CAN SAFELY HANDLE SUCH EXPERIMENTS.
===============================================================================
I. A LIST OF HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND THEIR COMPOSITION
VINEGAR: 3-5% ACETIC ACID
BAKING SODA: SODIUM BICARBONATE
DRAIN CLEANERS: SODIUM HYDROXIDE
SANI-FLUSH: 75% SODIUM BISULFATE
AMMONIA WATER: AMMONIUM HYDROXIDE
CITRUS FRUIT: CITRIC ACID
TABLE SALT: SODIUM CHLORIDE
SUGAR: SUCROSE
MILK OF MAGNESIA- MAGNESIUM HYDROXIDE
TINCTURE OF IODINE- 47% ALCOHOL, 4% IODINE
RUBBING ALCOHOL- 70 OR 99% (DEPENDS ON BRAND) ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL (DO NOT DRINK!)
ETC...
EXP #1: YE OLD FIZZ EXPERIMENT
MIX VINEGAR WITH BAKING SODA. IT PRODUCES SODIUM ACETATE AND CARBONIC ACID. CA
RBONIC ACID QUICKLY DECOMPOSES INTO CARBON DIOXIDE AND WATER, RESULTING IN THE
"FIZZ".
THIS SIMPLE REACTION CAN BE CONTAINED IN A SMALL BOTTLE OR SOMETHING, AND WHEN
ENOUGH PRESSURE BUILDS UP IT WILL BREAK OPEN. I SINCERELY DOUBT THAT IT WILL B
LOW "ALL FOUR WALLS OFF THE HOUSE" AS SOME LOSER WROTE IN HIS SAFEHOUSE ARTICLE
. THE SAME BASIC THING CAN BE DONE WITH DRY ICE & WATER, BAKING POWDER & WATER,
CITRIC ACID & BAKING SODA, AND MANY OTHER COMBINATIONS.
EXP #2: A FRUITY BATTERY
IF YOU'RE EVER IN NEED OF A LITTLE POWER, GET YOUR HANDS ON THESE:
A CITRUS FRUIT (LEMON, ORANGE, ETC)
A SMALL ZINC STRIP
A SMALL COPPER STRIP
JUST STICK THE ZINC STRIP IN ONE END OF A LEMON AND A COPPER STRIP IN THE OTH
ER. YOU NOW HAVE A 1.5 VOLT BATTERY! JUST ATTACH THE WIRES TO THE COPPER & ZINC
STRIPS...
EXP #3: GENERATING CHLORINE GAS
THIS IS SLIGHTLY MORE DANGEROUS THAN THE OTHER TWO EXPERIMENTS, SO YOU SHOUILD
KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING BEFORE YOU TRY THIS...
EVER WONDER WHY AMMONIA BOTTLES ALWAYS SAY 'DO NOT MIX WITH CHLORINE BLEACH',
AND VISA-VERSA? THAT'S BECAUSE IF YOU MIX AMMONIA WATER WITH AJAX OR SOMETHING
LIKE IT, IT WILL GIVE OFF CHLORINE GAS. TO CAPTURE IT, GET A LARGE BOTTLE AND P
UT AJAX IN THE BOTTOM. THEN POUR SOME AMMONIA DOWN INTO THE BOTTLE. SINCE THE C
HLORINE IS HEAVIER THAN AIR, IT WILL STAY DOWN IN THERE UNLESS YOU USE LARGE AM
OUNTS OF EITHER AJAX OR AMMONIA (DON'T!). FOR SOMETHING FUN TO DO WITH CHLORINE
STAY TUNED....
EXP #4: CHLORINE + TURPENTINE
TAKE A SMALL CLOTH OR RAG AND SOAK IT IN TURPENTINE. QUICKLY DROP IT INTO THE
BOTTLE OF CHLORINE. IT SHOULD GIVE OFF A LOT OF BLACK SMOKE AND PROBABLY START
BURNING...
EXP #5: GENERATING HYDROGEN GAS
TO GENERATE HYDROGEN, ALL YOU NEED IS AN ACID AND A METAL THAT WILL REACT WITH
THAT ACID. TRY VINEGAR (ACETIC ACID) WITH ZINC, ALUMINUM, MAGNESIUM, ETC. YOU
CAN COLLECT HYDROGEN IN SOMETHING IF YOU NOTE THAT IT IS LIGHTER THAN AIR.... L
IGHT A SMALL AMOUNT AND IT BURNS WITH A SMALL *POP*.
ANOTHER WAY OF CREATING HYDROGEN IS BY THE ELECTROLYSIS OF WATER. THIS INVOLVE
S SEPERATING WATER (H2O) INTO HYDROGEN AND OXYGEN BY AN ELECTRIC CURRENT. TO DO
THIS, YOU NEED A 6-12 VOLT BATTERY, TWO TEST TUBES, A LARGE BOWL, TWO CARBON E
LECTRODES (TAKE THEM OUT OF AN UNWORKING 6-12 VOLT BATTERY), AND TABLE SALT. DI
SSOLVE THE SALT IN A LARGE BOWL FULL OF WATER. SUBMERGE THE TWO TEST TUBES IN T
HE WATER AND PUT THE ELECTRODES INSIDE THEM, WITH THE MOUTH OF THE TUBE AIMING
DOWN. CONNECT THE BATTERY TO SOME WIRE GOING DOWN TO THE ELECTRODES. THIS WILL
WORK FOR A WHILE, BUT CHLORINE WILL BE GENERATED ALONG WITH THE OXYGEN WHICH WI
LL UNDOUBTEDLY CORRODE YOUR COPPER WIRES LEADING TO THE CARBON ELECTRODES... (T
HE TABLE SALT IS BROKEN UP INTO CHLORINE AND SODIUM IONS, THE CHLORINE COMES OF
F AS A GAS WITH OXYGEN WHILE SODIUM REACTS WITH THE WATER TO FORM SODIUM HYDROX
IDE....). THEREFORE, IF YOU CAN GET YOUR HANDS ON SOME SULFURIC ACID, USE IT IN
STEAD. IT WILL NOT AFFECT THE REACTION OTHER THAN MAKING THE WATER CONDUCT ELEC
TRICITY.
EXP #6: HYRDOGEN + CHLORINE
TAKE THE TEST TUBE OF HYDROGEN AND COVER THE MOUTH WITH YOUR THUMB. KEEP IT IN
VERTED, AND BRING IT NEAR THE BOTTLE OF CHLORINE (NOT ONE THAT HAS REACTED WITH
TURPENTINE). SAY "GOODBYE TEST TUBE", AND DROP IT INTO THE BOTTLE. THE HYDROGE
N AND CHLORINE SHOULD REACT AND POSSIBLY EXPLODE (DEPENDING ON PURITY AND AMOUN
T OF EACH GAS). AN INTERESTING THING ABOUT THIS IS THEY WILL NOT REACT IF IT IS
DARK AND NO HEAT OR OTHER ENERGY IS AROUND. WHEN A LIGHT IS TURNED ON, ENOUGH
ENERGY IS PRESENT TO CAUSE THEM TO REACT...
EXP #7: PREPARATION OF OXYGEN
GET SOME HYDROGEN PEROXIDE (FROM A DRUG STORE) AND MANGANESE DIOXIDE (FROM A B
ATTERY- IT'S A BLACK POWDER). MIX THE TWO IN A BOTTLE, AND THEY GIVE OFF OXYGEN
. IF THE BOTTLE IS STOPPERED, PRESSURE WILL BUILD UP AND SHOOT IT OFF. TRY LIGH
TING A WOOD SPLINT AND STICKING IT (WHEN ONLY GLOWING) INTO THE BOTTLE. THE OXY
GEN WILL MAKE IT BURST INTO FLAME. EXPERIMENT WITH IT. THE OXYGEN WILL ALLOW TH
INGS TO BURN BETTER...
EXP #8: ALCOHOL
BUY SOME RUBBING ALCOHOL IN A DRUG STORE. USUALLY THIS IS EITHER 70% OR 99% AL
COHOL AND BURNS JUST GREAT. YOU CAN SOAK A TOWEL IN WATER AND THEN IN ACOHOL, L
IGHT THE TOWEL, AND WHEN IT FINISHES BURNING THE ALCOHOL, THE FLAME SHOULD GO O
UT AND LEAVE THE TOWEL UNHARMED. NICE FOR "PARTY TRICKS", ETC.
EXP #9: IODINE?
TINCTURE OF IODINE CONTAINS MAINLY ALCOHOL AND A LITTLE IODINE. TO SEPERATE TH
EM, PUT THE TINCTURE OF IODINE IN A METAL LID TO A BOTTLE AND HEAT IT OVER A CA
NDLE. HAVE A STAND HOLDING ANOTHER METAL LID DIRECTLY OVER THE TINCTURE (ABOUT
4-6 INCHES ABOVE IT) WITH ICE ON TOP OF IT. THE ALCOHOL SHOULD EVAPORATE, AND T
HE IODINE SHOULD SUBLIME, BUT SHOULD REFORM IODINE CRYSTALS ON THE COLD METAL L
ID DIRECTLY ABOVE. IF THIS WORKS (I HAVEN'T TRIED), YOU CAN USE THE IODINE ALON
G WITH HOUSEHOLD AMMONIA TO FORM NITROGEN TRIIODIDE (DISCUSSED IN ARTICLE #1).
EXP #10: GRAIN-ELEVATOR EXPLOSION!
WANT TO TRY YOUR OWN 'GRAIN-ELEVATOR EXPLOSION'? GET A CANDLE AND SOME FLOUR..
. LIGHT THE CANDLE AND PUT SOME FLOUR IN YOUR HAND. TRY VARIOUS WAYS OF GETTING
THE FLOUR TO LEAVE YOUR HAND AND BECOME DUST RIGHT OVER THE CANDLE FLAME. THE
ENORMOUS SURFACE AREA ALLOWS ALL THE TINY DUST PARTICLES TO BURN, WHICH THEY DO
AT ABOUT THE SAME TIME, COMBINING TO FORM A FIREBALL EFFECT. IN GRAIN ELEVATOR
S, MUCH THE SAME THING HAPPENS. IF YOU CAN GET YOUR HANDS ON SOME LYCOPODIUM PO
WDER, DO. THIS WILL WORK MUCH BETTER, CREATING HUGE FIREBALLS THAT ARE UNEXPECT
ED.
THAT'S ENOUGH FOR NOW... MORE TO COME IN LATER CHEMIST'S CORNER ARTICLES...
...ZAPHOD BEEBLEBROX/MPG!
TRIXS OF THE TRADE...APPLE-BOOTLEGGER
/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/
[Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,<CR>=abort:22
[Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit]
- ***********************************
- A N O T H E R B O M B ! ! ! *
- CHLOROX-DRAINO *
- *
- By *
- The Mortician *
- Sysop of: *
- The Morgue *
- (201)376-4462 *
- ***********************************
I am not too sure on how this works
but I am pretty sure that you can make
a really powerful bomb by taking a can
of draino and mixing it with Chlorox.
I think that these two compuonds will
spontaniously explode so don't just pour
them together. I think what you do is
get the draino in a cardboard can and
then put it in a bucket of chlorox
and what will happen is either the
draino or chlorox will eat through
the cardboard and they will meet and
explode. You might want to experiment
with this by rigging it up so you can
cause the two to combine while you
stand a distance a way. I reccomend
extreme caution with this and wear
goggles definately.... Just like
pour some chlorox into a pan and
then have a can of draino with a
string tied to it so you can make it
spill into the chlorox... Be Care
full. I don't need a law suit...
- ***********************************
If you find anything out call
The Morgue and leave me feedback
and/or get me in chat and I will
update this file with credit
to you....
- ***********************************
Call:
MORDOR AE...201-528-6467 PW:ZANDAR
- ***********************************
[Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,<CR>=abort:23
[Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit]
Richie Rich and the staff of Pearl City Networks is not responisible for
any damage done while doing the following experiments...do it at your own
risk!!!!
winston smith and mr.mojo risin present:
an anarchist's beginning guide to explosives! (or how to get back at those
neighbors who told you to turn your stereo down by blowing em up!)
1.quickie...
take organic pool chlorine and mix it with vegtable shortening and put it
someplace you don't like. it reacts by itself to produce a very noxious white
smoke and heat.
2.a pipe bomb (dangerous)
take a pipe crimp (closed at one end) and pack it 3/4 full of parafin. (or
any other semi-solid with about the samebasic chemical structure) poke a
number of holes through the length of the parafin. on top of this put a very
thin steel (or other metal of that sort) wafer, make double damn sure** that
it fits tightly all the way around. on top of this put some high concentration
hcl (or similar acid). close the top now, stand it on end (parafin end down),
and get the f*ck away. you should have about 2-5 minutes depending on the
thickness of the wafer. watch out for shrappnel.
3. snowball...
take ammonium iodide, flour, & water and form this into a snowball.
leave this 'snowball' somewhere where it will do neat stuff when it dries out.
(substituting some magnesium flash powder for some (not all) of that flour
helps things a bit.)
4.fire bomb..
take carbon disulfide and dissolve white phosphorous in it. put it in a
stoppered bottle and throw it at something you would like to see on fire.
when the cs2 evaporates, it leaves a film of p on what ever it hits, and it
starts a fire with the solvent vapors.
5. light bulb bomb (click...booom!)
take a light bulb (brass based preferably so you can solder the wires back
when you are done) unsolder the two wires that are soldered to the brass.
(one at the center of the bass and one on the side) remove the base taking
care not to damage the bulb or filiment.
take a pair of needle nosed pliers and snap the glass nipple that is now
exposed. fill bulb (not completely) via the hole you just made with gasoline.
plug hole with silicone or something. put the base back on. resolder the wires
screw into light fixture (with power off of course!) turn on light...booom!
mr.mojo risin and winston smith assume no responsiblity for personal injury or
damage to property cause by these devices of destruction. anarchy rules!
+-------------------------------------+
! H O W T O M A K E D R U G S !
+-------------------------------------+
IN NO WAY AM I RESPONSIBLE FOR FOR ANY INJURIES CAUSED BY THE USE/MISUSE
OF THESE DRUGS. YOU SHOULD TREAT THESE DRUGS LIKE ALCOHOL. USE THEM ONLY AS
AN ADDED EXPERIENCE IN LIFE, RATHER THAN AN ESCAPE.
THESE RECIPES ARE ALL FOUND IN A BOOK WHICH HAS RELIABLE SOURCES. ALL SHOULD
WORK IF MADE PROPERLY.
+-------------------------------------+
! MAKING L.S.D. IN YOUR OWN KITCHEN !
+-------------------------------------+
1] GRIND UP 150 GRAMS OF MORNING GLORY SEEDS OR BABY HAWAIIAN WOOD ROSE SEEDS.
2] IN 130 C.C. OF PETROLEUM ETHER SOAK THE SEEDS FOR 2 DAYS.
3] FILTER THE SOLUTION THROUGH A TIGHT SCREEN.
4] THROW AWAY LIQUID, AND ALLOW SEEDS MUSH TO DRY.
5] FOR 2 DAYS ALLOW THE MUSH TO SOAK IN 110 C.C. OF WOOD ALCOHOL.
6] FILTER THE SOLUTION AGAIN, SAVING THE LIQUID AND LABELING IT '1'
7] RESOAK THE MUCH IN 110 C.C. OF WOOK ALCOHOL FOR 2 DAYS.
8] FILTER AND THROW AWAY MUSH.
9] ADD LIQUID FROM THE SECOND SOAK TO THE LIQUID LABELED '1'.
10] POUR THE LIQUID INTO A COOKIE TRAY AND ALLOW IT TO EVAPORATE.
11] WHEN ALL LIQUID HAS EVAPORATED, A YELLOW GUM REMAINS. THIS SHOULD
BE SCRAPED AND PUT IN CAPSULES.
30 GRAMS OF MORNING GLORY SEEDS
- OR -
15 HAWAIIAN WOOD ROSE SEEDS
- EQUALS -
ONE TRIP
- * NOTE ** MANY COMPANIES HAVE BEEN KNOWN TO COAT THIER SEEDS WITH TOXIN.
ORDER SEEDS FROM A WHOLESALER.
+-------------------------------------+
! OTHER VARIOUS LEGAL & ILLEGAL DRUGS !
+-------------------------------------+
--> BANANDINE (MADE FROM BANANA!)
BANANAS DO CONTAIN A SMALL QUANTITY OF A MILD SHORT LASTING PSYCHODELIC DRUG.
THERE ARE BETTER WAYS OF GETTING HIGH BUT THE GREAT ADVANTAGE OF THIS IS THAT
BANANAS AE LEGAL (OF COURSE!)
1] OBTAIN 15 LBS OF RIPE YELLOW BANANAS
2] PEEL THEM ALL, EAT THE CHOW, KEEP THE PEELS.
3] WITH A SHARP KNIFE, SCRAPE OFF THE INSIDES OF THE PEELINGS, AND SAVE
THE SCRAPED MATERIAL.
4] PUT ALL SCRAPED MATERIAL IN A LARGE POT AND ADD WATER. BOIL FOR THREE
TO FOUR HOURS UNTIL IT HAS ATTAINED A SOLID PASTE.
5] SPREAD THIS PASTE ON COOKIE SHEETS AND DRY IN OVEN FOR ABOUT 20 MIN.
TO A HALF AN HOUR. THIS WILL RESULT IN A FINE BLACK POWDER
ROLL IT UP AND SMOKE ABOUT 3-4 OF THOSE DUDES
--> COUGH SYRUP? (SURE, WHY NOT?)
MIX ROBOTUSSION A-C WITH AN EQUAL AMOUNT OF GINGER ALE AND DRINK. NOTE
THAT YOU CAN OVERDOSE ON THIS ONE!
--> GLUE...YUCK!
PUT HALF A TUBE OF AIRPLANE GLUE ON ANY (I MEAN, IN ANY) PLASTIC BAG AND SNIFF
IT. IT'S REALLY GROSS BUT SOME PEOPLE REALLY GET INTO IT..
--> HEROINE
DON'T WASTE YOUR LIFE ON IT...
--> PEANUTS!
1] OBTAIN A POUND OF PEANUTS.
2] SHELL THEM, SAVING THE SKINS AND DISCARDING THE SHELLS.
3] PORK OUT ON THE NUTS WHILE WATCHING DR. WHO ONE NIGHT.
4] GRIND UP THE SKINS, ROLL THEM, SMOKE THEM.
--> TOAD SKINS? YOU'RE CRAZY!!
1] COLLECT 5-10 TOADS
2] KILL THEM AS PAINLESSLY AS POSSIBLE AND SKIN THEM AS SOON AS POSSIBLE!
3] ALLOW SKINS TO DRY ON THE FRIDGE FOR 4 TO 5 DAYS, OR UNTI THEY ARE
BRITTLE.
4] CRUSH INTO A POWDER AND SMOKE. DUE TO THE BAD TASTE, MIX IT WITH MINT
OR SOMETHING ELSE.
+-------------------------------------+
PLEASE REMEMBER THAT THESE THESE DRUGS SHOULD ONLY BE USED FOR AN ADDITIONAL
EXPERIENCE IN LIFE. DO NOT USE THEM AS AN ESCAPE, OR JUST FOR THE HELL OF
IT! SEE YA, AND HAVE FUN??!!..??!!..
[Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,<CR>=abort:26
[Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit]
- *********************************
- T R I P W I R E S *
- By *
- The Mortician *
- *********************************
Well first of all I reccommend
that you read the file on my board
about landmines... If you can't then
here is the conecpt. You can use an
m-80,h-100, blockbuster or any other
type of elxplose that will light with
a fuse. Now the way this works is
if you have a 9volt batery, from a
radio ctlred car or what ever and
get either a solor igniter (preferably)
or some steel wool you can create
a remote ignition system. What you
do it set up a schematic like this.
------------------>+ batery
steel || ->- batery
wool || /
:==:--- <--fuse \
|| /
---- spst switch--\
So when the switch is on the currnet
will flow through the steel wool or
igniter and heat up causing the fuse
to light.
Note: For use with steel wool
try it first and get a really thin
peice of wire and pump the current
through it to make sure it will heat
up to light the explosive.
- *********************************
Now the thing to do is plant your
explosive whereever you want it to
be but bury it and cover the wires
obviously... Now take a this wire
fishing line is good about 20 lb.
test and tie one end of the wire
to a secure object. Have your switch
secured to seomthing to and make a
loop on the other end on the line.
Put the loop around the switch such
that when pulled it will pull the
switch and set off the explosive.
to ignite the explosive... The thing
to do is to experiment with this
and find your best method... Let me
know on any good kills, or new
techniques... On my board...
(201)376-4462
- *********************************
CALL MORDOR AE..201-528-6467 PW:ZANDAR
[Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,<CR>=abort:28
[Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit]
U/L TO RIPCO 6/3/85 BY STEE ONE
+------------------------------------+
! KING ARTHUR'S DEMOLITION ARTICLE #1!
+------------------------------------+
LIKE ALL CHEMISTS I MUST ADVISE
YOU ALL TO TAKE THE GREATEST CARE AND
CAUTION WHEN YOU ARE DOING THIS. EVEN
IF YOU HAVE MADE THIS STUFF BEFORE.
THIS FIRST ARTICLE WILL GIVE YOU
INFORMATION ON MAKING NITROGLYERIN, THE
BASIC INGREDIENT IN A LOT OF EXPLOSIVES
SUCH AS STRAIGHT DYNAMITES, AND GELETIN
DYNAMITES.
--------------------------------------
MAKING NITROGLYCERIN
--------------------------------------
1. FILL A 75-MILLILITER BEAKER TO
THE 13 ML. LEVEL WITH FUMING RED NITRIC
ACID, OF 98% PURE CONCENTRATION.
2. PLACE THE BEAKER IN AN ICE BATH
AND ALLOW TO COOL BELOW ROOM TEMP.
3. AFTER IT HAS COOLED, ADD TO IT
THREE TIMES THE AMOUNT OF FUMING
SULFERIC ACID (99% H2SO4). IN OTHER
WORDS, ADD TO THE NOW-COOL FUMING
NITRIC ACID 39 ML. OF FUMING SULFERIC
ACID. WHEN MIXING ANY ACIDS, ALWAYS DO
IT SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY TO AVOID
SPLATTERING.
4. WHEN THE TWO ARE MIXED, LOWER
THIER TEMP. BY ADDING MORE ICE TO THE
BATH, ABOUT 10-15 DEGREES CENTIGRADE.
(USE A MERCURY-OPERATED THERMOMETER)
5. WHEN THE ACID SOLUTION HAS
COOLED TO THE DESIRED TEMPERATURE, IT
IS READY FOR THE GLYCERIN. THE GLYCERIN
MUST BE ADDED IN SMALL AMOUNTS USING A
MEDICINE DROPPER. (READ THIS STEP
ABOUT 10 TIMES!) GLYCERIN IS ADDED
SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY (I MEAN CAREFUL!)
UNTIL THE ENTIRE SURFACE OF THE ACID IT
COVERED WITH IT.
6. THIS IS A DANGEROUS POINT SINCE
THE NITRATION WILL TAKE PLACE AS SOON
AS THE GLYCERIN IS ADDED. THE NITRATION
WILL PRODUCE HEAT, SO THE SOLUTION MUST
BE KEPT BELOW 30 DEGREES CENTIGRADE! IF
THE SOLUTION SHOULD GO ABOVE 30
DEGREES, IMMEDIATELY DUMP THE SOLUTION
INTO THE ICE BATH! THIS WILL INSURE
THAT IT DOES NOT GO OFF IN YOUR FACE!
7. FOR HTE FIRST TEN MINUTES OF
NITRATION, THE MIXTURE SHOULD BE GENTLY
STIRRED. IN A NORMAL REACTION THE
NITROGLYCERIN WILL FORMAS A LAYER ON
TOP OF THE ACID SOLUTION, WHILE THE
SULFERIC ACID WILL ABSORB THE EXCESS
WATER.
8. AFTER THE NITRATION HAS TAKEN
PLACE, AND THE NITROGLYCERIN HAS FORMED
ON THE TOP OF THE SOLUTION, THE ENTIRE
BEAKER SHOULD BE TRANSFERRED SLOWLY AND
CAREFULLY TO ANOTHER BEAKER OF WATER.
WHEN THIS IS DONE THE NITROGLYCERIN
WILL SETTLE AT THE BOTTEM SO THE OTHER
ACIDS CAN BE DRAINED AWAY.
9. AFTER REMOVING AS MUCH ACID AS
POSIBLE WITHOUT DISTURBING THE
NITROGLYCERIN, REMOVE THE NITROGLYCERIN
WITH AN EYEDROPPER AND PLACE IT IN A
BICARBONATE OF SODA (SODIUM BICARBONATE
IN CASE YOU DIDN'T KNOW) SOLUTION. THE
SODIUM IS AN ALKALAI AND WILL
NUETRALIZE MUCH OF THE ACID REMAINING.
THIS PROCESS SHOULD BE REPEATED AS MUCH
AS NECESARRY USING BLUE LITMUS PAPER TO
CHECK FOR THE PRESENCE OF ACID. THE
REMAINING ACID ONLY MAKES THE NITROGLY-
CERIN MORE UNSTABLE THAN IT ALREADY
IS.
10. FINALLY! THE FINAL STEP IS TO
REMOVE THE NITROGLYCERIN FROM THE BI-
CARBONATE. HIS IS DONE WITH AND EYE-
DROPPER, SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY. THE
USUAL TEST TO SEE IF NITRATION HAS BEEN
SUCCESSFUL IS TO PLACE ONE DROP OF THE
NITROGLYCERIN ON METAL AND IGNITE IT.
IF IT IS TRUE NITROGLYCERIN IT WILL
BURN WITH A CLEAR BLUE FLAME.
NITRO IS VERY SENSATIVE TO DECOMPOSI-
TION, HEATING DROPPING, OR JARRING, AND
MAY EXPLODE IF LEFT UNDISTURBED AND
COOL.
--------------------------------------
NEXT ARTICLES: #2 MERCURY FULMINATE
#3 DYNAMITES
#4 CHLORIDE OF AZODE
--------------------------------------
SPECIAL THANKS TO THE ICEBERG <=-:+**#
[Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,<CR>=abort:32
[Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit]
- **************************************
RECIPE FOR A STANDARD PLASTIC EXPLOSIVE
- **************************************
INGREDIENTS:
-GASOLINE - 1 PART
-OIL - 1 HALF PART
-STYROFOAM - 1
1) MELT STYROFOAM.
-REMEMBER NEVER AT ANY TIME LET THE
MIXTURE GET TOO HOT.
2) LET COOL TO A THICK VISCOSITY.
3) MIX 3 INGREDIENTS TOGETHER IN
FOLLOWING ORDER: FIRST ADD
STYROFOAM, THEN OIL, THEN GAS.
4) MIX IN A DEEP POT - KEEP MIXTURE
AWAY FROM ANY TYPE OF FIRE! DO THIS
STEP WITH EXTREME CAUTION.
5) LET THE MIXTURE COOL TO A LITTLE
BIT WARMER THAN ROOM TEMPERATURE -
AROUND 88 DEGREES FARENHEIT.
6) MOLD THE MIXTURE HOW YOU WANT.
(DIFFERENT SHAPES WILL MAKE IT MORE
OR LESS LETHAL).
OPTIONAL: YOU CAN ADD NUTS, BOLTS, AND
SCREWS WHILE MIXING, ALONG WITH
GUNPOWDER, 2 M-80'S, OR ANY OTHER
TYPE OF EXPLOSIVE TO MAKE IT THE
EQUIVILANT OF A MOLOTOV COCKTAIL.
NOTE: THE FRAGMENTS (NUTS, BOLT, ETC.)
ARE DEADLY. THEY WILL PENETRATE A BRICK
WALL WHEN THE MIXTURE IS DETONATED.
============
:DETONATION:
============
1) THE MIXTURE CAN BE THROWN, BUT
SOMETIMES DETONATION DOES NOT OCCUR.
2) THE MIXTURE CAN BE WIRED FOR AN
ELECTRIC CHARGE TO BE SENT THROUGH
IT, IT WILL DETONATE WITHOUT DOUBT.
A REGULAR FUSE CAN BE SENT THROUGH
IT ALSO. IF THIS METHOD IS USED,
SOME SORT OF TIMER IS RECOMMENDED.
[Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,<CR>=abort:33
[Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit]
::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
How to Make and Use Nitroglycerin.
Brought to you by:Heracles (B.O.U.)
::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
CH2ONO2
! 3/2 N2 + 3 CO2
CHONO2 ----------> +
! Ignition 5/2 H2O + 1/4 O2
CH2ONO2
(How Nitro explodes--note that the
byproducts are nothing but nitrogen,
carbon dioxide, water and oxygen)
::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
Nitroglycerin [heretofore
Nitro] is a very powerful high-
explosive. I am not sure who
invented it but he probably didn't--
the first person to make it
probably blew himself up and his
freind got the info off his notes.
Well anyway, the next best thing to
Nitro is TNT which is ten times
harder to make but also ten times
safer to make. If you can't use
common sense then dont even TRY
to make this stuff--a few drops can
blow off your hand in the right
circumstances.
::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
To make Nitro:
== ==== ======
Mix 100 parts fuming nitric acid
(for best results it should have a
specific gravity of 50 degrees Baume')
with 200 parts sulphuric acid. This
is going to be HOT at first--it won't
splatter if you pour the nitric INTO
the sulphuric but don't try it the
other way around. The acid solutions
together can disolve flesh in a matter
of seconds so take the proper measures
for God's sake!!! When cool, add 38
parts glycerine as slowly as possible.
Let it trickle down the sides of the
container into the acids or it won't
mix thourily and the reaction could
go to fast--which causes enough heat
to ignite the stuff. Stir with a
- *GLASS** rod for 15 seconds or so
then CARFULLY pour it into 20 times
it's *VOLUME* of water. It will
visibly precipitate immediatly. there
will be twice as much Nitro as you
used glycerin and it is easy to
separate. Mix it with baking soda
as soon as you have separated it--
this helps it not to go off
spontainously.
::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
NOTES: Parts are by weight nd he
Baume' scale of spicific gravity can
be found in most chem. books. You
can get fuming nitric and sulfuric
acids wherever good chemicals or
fertilizers are sold. It is
positivly *STUPID* to make more
than 200 grams of Nitro at a time.
When mixing the stuff wear goggles,
gloves, etc. When I first made
the stuff I had the honor of having
it go off by itself (I added too
much glycerine at a time.) I was
across the room at the time, but
I felt the impact--so did the table
it was on as well as the window it
was next to--they were both smashed
by only 25 grams in an open bowl.
Oh, yes, glycerine you can get at
any pharmacy and you need an adult
signature for the acids. Any bump
can make Nitro go off if you don't
add the bicarbonate of (baking)
soda--but even with that, if it
gets old I wouldn't play catch with
it.
::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
Once you have made the Nitro and
saturated it with Bicarb. you can make
a really powerful explosive that won't
go off by itself by simply mixing it
with as much cotton as you can and
then saturating that with molten
(but as cool as possible, of course)
parifine--just enough to make it
sealed and hard. Typically, use the
same amounts (by weight) of each
Nitro, cotton and parifine. This,
when wrapped in newspaper, was once
known as "Norbin & Ohlsson's Patent
Dynamite," but that was back in 1896.
[Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,<CR>=abort:34
[Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit]
</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>
Improvised Explosives
Gelatine Explosive from Anti-Freeze
</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>
Written by: The Lich
This explosive is almost the same as the nitro-gelatin plastique
explosive
exept that it is supple and pliable to -10 to -20 deg. C..
Antifreeze is easier
to obtain than glycerine and is usually cheaper. It needs to be
freed of water
before the manufacture and this can be done by treating it with
calcium chlor-
ide until a specific gravity of 1.12 @ o deg. C. or 1.11 @ 20
deg. C. is
obtained. This can be done by adding calcium chloride to the
antifreeze and
checking with a hydrometer and continue to add calcium chloride
until the
proper reading is obtained. The antifreeze is then filtered to
remove the
calcium chloride from the liquid. This explosive is superior to
nitro-gelatin
in that it is easier to collidon the IMR smokeless powder into
the explosive
and that the 50/50 ether ethyl alcohol can be done away with. It
is superior
in that the formation of the collidon is done very rapidly by the
nitroethelene
glycol. It's detonation properties are practically the same as
the nitro-
gelatine. Like the nitro-gelatine it is highly flammable and if
caught on fire
the chances are good that the flame will progress to detonation.
In this
explosive as in nitro-gelatine the addition of 1% sodium
carbonate is a good
idea to reduce the chance of recidual acid being present in the
final explos-
ive. The following is a slightly different formula than
nitro-gelatine:
Nitro-glycol 75%
Guncotton (IMR) 6%
Potassium Nitrate 14%
Flour (baking) 5%
In this process the 50/50 step is omitted. Mix the potassium
nitrate with the
nitro-glycol. Remember that this nitro-glycol is just as
sensitive to shock as
is nitroglycerin. The next step is to mix in the flour and sodium
carbonate.
Mix these by kneading with gloved hands until the mixture is
uniform. This
kneading should be done gently and slowly. The mixture should be
uniform when
the IMR smokeless powder is added. Again this is kneaded to
uniformity. Use
this explosive as soon as possible. If it must be stored, store
in a cool, dry
place (0-10 deg. C.). This explosive should detonate at 7600-7800
m/sec.. These
two explosives are very powerful and should be sensitive to a #6
blasting cap
or equivelent. These explosives are dangerous and should not be
made unless the
manufacturer has had experience with this type compound. The
foolish and ignor-
ant may as well forget these explosives as they won't live to get
to use them.
Don't get me wrong, these explosives have been manufactured for
years with an
amazing record of safety. Millions of tons of nitroglycerine have
been made and
used to manufacture dynamite and explosives of this nature with
very few mis-
haps. Nitroglycerin and nitroglycol will kill and their main
victims are the
stupid and foolhardy. Before manufacturing these explosives take
a drop of
nitroglycerin and soak into a small piece of filter paper and
place it on an
anvil. Hit this drop with a hammer and don't put any more on the
anvil. See
what I mean! This explosive compound is not to be taken lightly.
If there are
any doubts DON'T.
</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>
Improvised Explosives
Plastique Explosive from Aspirin
</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>
Written by: The Lich
This explosive is a phenol dirivative. It is toxic and explosive
compounds
made from picric acid are poisonous if inhaled, ingested, or
handled and absor-
bed through the skin. The toxicity of this explosive restrict's
its use due to
the fact that over exposure in most cases causes liver and kidney
failure and
sometimes death if immediate treatment is not obtained.
This explosive is a cousin to T.N.T. but is more powerful than
it's cousin. It
is the first explosive used militarily and was adopted in 1888 as
an artillery
shell filler. Originally this explosive was derived from coal tar
but thanx to
modern chemistry you can make this explosive easily in
approximately three
hours from acetylsalicylic acid (aspirin purified).
This procedure involves dissolving the acetylsalicylic acid in
warm sulfuric
acid and adding sodium or potassium nitrate which nitrates the
purified aspirin
and the whole mixture drowned in water and filtered to obtain the
final pro-
duct. This explosive is called trinitrophenol. Care should be
taken to ensure
that this explosive is stored in glass containers. Picric acid
will form dang-
erous salts when allowed to contact all metals exept tin and
aluminum. These
salts are primary explosive and are super sensitive. They also
will cause the
detonation of the picric acid.
To make picric acid obtain some aspirin. The cheaper brands work
best but
buffered brands should be avoided. Powder these tablets to a fine
consistancy.
To extract the acetylsalicylic acid from this powder place this
powder in
methyl alcohol and stir vigorously. Not all of the powder will
dissolve. Filter
this powder out of the alcohol. Again wash this powder that was
filtered out of
the alcohol with more alcohol but with a lesser amount than the
first extrac-
tion. Again filter the remaining powder out of the alcohol.
Combine the now
clear alcohol and allow it to evaporate in a pyrex dish. When the
alcohol has
evaporated there will be a surprising amount of crystals in the
bottom of the
pyrex dish.
Take fourty grams of these purified acetylsalicylic acid
crystals and dissolve
them in 150 ml. of sulfuric acid (98%, specify gravity 1.8) and
heat to diss-
olve all the crystals. This heating can be done in a common
electric frying
pan with the thermostat set on 150 deg. F. and filled with a good
cooking oil.
When all the crystals have dissolved in the sulfuric acid take
the beaker, that
you've done all this dissolving in (600 ml.), out of the oil
bath. This next
step will need to be done with a very good ventilation system (it
is a good
idea to do any chemistry work such as the whole procedure and any
procedure on
this disk with good ventilation or outside). Slowly start adding
58 g. of
sodium nitrate or 77 g. of potassium nitrate to te acid mixture
in the beaker
very slowly in small portions with vigorous stirring. A red gas
(nitrogen tri-
oxide) will be formed and this should be avoided. The mixture is
likely to
foam up and the addition should be stopped until the foaming goes
down to
prevent the overflow of the acid mixture in the beaker. When the
sodium or
potassium nitrate has been added the mixture is allowed to cool
somewhat (30-
40 deg. C.). The solution should then be dumped slowly into twice
it's volume
of crushed ice and water. The brilliant yellow crystals will form
in the water.
These should be filtered out and placed in 200 ml. of boiling
distilled water.
This water is allowed to cool and then the crystals are then
filtered out of
the water. These crystals are a very, very pure trinitrophenol.
These crystals
are then placed in a pyrex dish and places in an oil bath and
heated to 80 deg.
C. and held there for 2 hours. This temperature is best
maintained and checked
with a thermometer. The crystals are then powdered in small
quantities to a
face powder consistency. These powdered crystals are then mixed
with 10% by
weight wax and 5% vaseline which are heated to melting
temperature and poured
into the crystals. The mixing is best done by kneading together
with gloved
hands. This explosive should have a useful plsticity range of
0-40 deg. C.. The
detonation velocity should be around 7000 m/sec.. It is toxic to
handle but
simply made from common ingredients and is suitable for most
demolition work
requiring a moderately high detonation velocity. It is very
suitable for
shaped charges and some steel cutting charges. It is not as good
an explosive
as C-4 or other R.D.X. based explosives but it is much easier to
make. Again
this explosive is very toxic and should be treated with great
care. AVOID
HANDLING BARE-HANDED, BREATHING DUST AND FUMES, AVOID ANY CHANCE
OF INGESTION.
AFTER UTENSILS ARE USED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF THIS EXPLOSIVE
RETIRE THEM FROM
THE KITCHEN AS THE CHANCE OF POISONING IS NOT WORTH THE RISK.
THIS EXPLOSIVE,
IF MANUFACTURED AS ABOVE, AHOULD BE SAFE IN STORAGE BUT WITH ANY
HOMEMADE
EXPLOSIVE STORAGE OS NOT RECOMENDED AND EXPLOSIVES SHOULD BE MADE
UP AS NEEDED.
A V O I D C O N T A C T W I T H A L L M E T A L S E X E
P T T I N
[ Selection ] : 27
</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>
Improvised Explosives
Plastique Explosive from Bleach
</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>
Written by: The Lich
This explosive is a potassium chlorate explosive. This explosive
and explo-
sives of similar composition were used in World War II as the
main explosive
filler in gernades, land mines, and mortar used by French,
German, and other
forces involoved in that conflict. These explosives are
relatively safe to
manufacture. One should strive to make sure these explosives are
free of
sulfur, sulfides, and picric acid. The presence of these
compounds result in
mixtures that are or can become highly sensitive and possibly
decompose ex-
plosively while in storage. The manufacture of this explosive
from bleach is
given as just an expediant method. This method of manufacturing
potassium
chlorate is not economical due to the amount of energy used to
boil the sol-
ution and cause the 'dissociation' reaction to take place. This
procedure does
work and yields a relatively pure and a sulfur/sulfide free
product. These
explosives are very cap sensitive and require only a #3 cap for
instigating
detonation. To manufacture potassium chlorate from bleach (5.25%
sodium
hypochlorite solution) obtain a heat source (hot plate stove
etc.) a battery
hydrometer, a large pyrex or enameled steel container (to weigh
chemicals),
and some potassium chloride (sold as salt substitute). Take one
gallon of
bleach, place it in the container and begin heating it. While
this solution
heats, weigh out 63 g. potassium chloride and add this to the
bleach being
heated. Bring this solution to a boil and boiled until when
checked by a
hydrometer the reading is 1.3 (if a battery hydrometer is used it
should read
full charge).
When the reading is 1.3 take the solution and let it cool in the
refrigerator
until it's between room temperature and 0 deg. C.. Filter out the
crystals that
have formed and save them. Boil the solution again until it reads
1.3 on the
hydrometer and again cool the solution. Filter out the crystals
that have
formed and save them. Boil this solution again and cool as
before. Filter and
save the crystals. Take these crystals that have been saved and
mix them with
distilled water in the following proportions: 56 g. per 100 ml.
distilled
water. Heat this solution until it boils and allow it to cool.
Filter the
solution and save the crystals that form upon cooling. The
process if purifi-
cation is called fractional crystalization. These crystals should
be relatively
pure potassium chlorate.
Powder these to the consistency of face powder (400 mesh) and
heat gently to
drive off all moisture. Melt five parts vasoline and five parts
wax. Dissolve
this in white gasoline (camp stove gasoline) and pour this liquid
on 90 parts
potassium chlorate (the crystals from the above operation) in a
plastic bowl.
Knead this liquid into the potassium chlorate until immediately
mixed. Allow
all the gasoline to evaporate. Place this explosive in a cool,
dry place. Avoid
friction, sulfur, sulfide, and phosphorous compounds. This
explosive is best
molded to the desired shape and density (1.3g./cc.) and dipped in
wax to water
proof. These block type charges guarantee the highest detonation
velocity. This
explosive is really not suited to use in shaped charge
applications due to its
relatively low detonation velocity. It is comparable to 40%
ammonia dynamite
and can be considered the same for the sake of charge
computation. If the
potassium chlorate is bought and not made it is put into the
manufacture pro-
cess in the powdering stages preceding the addition of the
wax/vaseline mix-
ture. This explosive is bristant and powerful. The addition of
2-3% aluminum
powder increases its blast effect. Detonation velocity is 3300
m/sec..
[ Selection ] : 28
</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>
Improvised Explosives
Plastique Explosives From
Swimming Pool Clorinating Compound
</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>
Written by: The Lich
This explosive is a chlorate explosive from bleach. This method
of production
of potassium or sodium chlorate is easier and yields a more pure
product than
does the plastique explosive from bleach process. In this
reaction the H.T.H.
(calcium hypochlorite CaC10) is mixed with water and heated with
either sodium
chloride (table salt, rock salt) or potassium chloride (salt
substitute). The
latter of these salts is the salt of choice due to the easy
crystalization of
the potassium chlorate. This mixture will need to be boiled to
ensure complete
reaction of the ingredients. Obtain some H.T.H. swimming pool
chlorination
compound or equivilant (usually 65% calcium hypochlorite). As
with the bleach
process mentioned earlier the reaction described below is also a
dissociation
reaction. In a large pyrex glass or enamled steel container place
1200g. H.T.H.
and 220g. potassium chloride or 159g. sodium chloride. Add enough
boiling water
to dissolve the powder and boil this solution. A chalky substance
(calcium
chloride) will be formed. When the formation of this chalky
substance is no
longer formed the solution is filtered while boiling hot. If
potassium chloride
was used potassium chlorate will be formed. This potassium
chlorate will drop
out or crystalize as the clear liquid left after filtering cools.
These
crystals are filtered out when the solution reaches room
temperature. If the
sodium chloride salt was used this clear filtrate (clear liquid
after filter-
ation) will need to have all water evaporated. This will leave
crystals which
should be saved.
These crystals should be heated in a slightly warm oven in a
pyrex dish to
drive off all traces of water (40-75 deg. C.). These crystals are
ground to a
very fine powder (400 mesh).
If the sodium chloride salt is used in the initial step the
crystalization is
much more time consuming. The potassium chloride is the salt to
use as the
resulting product will crystalize out of the solution as it
cools. The powdered
and completely dry chlorate crystals are kneaded together with
vaseline in a
plastic bowl. ALL CHLORATE BASED EXPLOSIVES ARE SENSITIVE TO
FRICTION AND SHOCK
AND THESE SHOULD BE AVOIDED. If sodium chloride is used in this
explosive it
will have a tendancy to cake and has a slightly lower detonation
velocity. This
explosive is composed of the following:
potassium/sodium chlorate 90%
vaseline 10%
The detonation velocity can be raised to a slight extent by the
addition of
2-3% aluminum sunstituted for 2-3% of the vaseline. This addition
of this
aluminum will give the explosive a bright flash if set off at
night which will
ruin night vision for a short while. The detonation velocity of
this explosive
is approximately 3200 m/sec. for the potassium salt and 2900
m/sec. for the
sodium salt based explosive.
[Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,<CR>=abort:38
[Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit]
5
[SPACE ABORTS / <^S> FREEZES]
- **************************************
- *
- Revenge: Don't get mad - Get even *
- *
- By George Hayduke *
- *
- subtitled: Fun Things To Do *
- *
- *
- Written by The Ghost *
- *
- ****************02/21/85**************
SPEED DEMON 415/522-3074 24 HOURS
- **************************************
This isn't a death and Destruction file. I'm not telling losers how to cause
thermite reactions in chemistry class or make neeto pipe bombs to blow up that
guy who keeps bugging you.
This is from a book by George Hayduke. It describes a variety of ways to get
back at people who cause you distress. The book has contains a lot of tips on
causing expensive damage to "marks". Well, I picked the good ones. Ones that
don't cause a lot of expense, in currency that is. Well, I hope you enjoy.
Get back at the losers using the system. Sort of like piracy and phreaking.
- **************************************
In a car with automatic transmission, switch the #1 and #8 wires on the
distributer cap. This will allegedly allow the car to operate in Neutral and
Park, but the engine mysteriously dies in Drive.
Castor Oil squirted into the tailpipe of a car, will cause a large amount of
smoke. Just the thing to help nervous drivers.
If you can get a bank account number for a person, truly wonderful things can
happen. Depositing one penny every day can get the employees very pissed.
It happens that given a few hundred wanted posters, one will look like you. OR
anybody else you can imagine. Close anyway. Think of all the bounty hunters
just waiting to claim their reward.
Place an ad in a paper for Male Secretarys only. $11 an hour, must be
physically attractive, gentle, and other related social traits. This is for
anybody who has an office. Give the time to show up one half hour before
the normal opening hour. For example, if the office opens at 9:00, put the time
to be 8:30. All these faggots will show up and start bitching at each other and
your loser.
Run an ad in the local paper with the following message.
"I need all used christmas trees. Please leave them on my lawn, and I'll pay
$5 for each one." then leave the losers address. The paper will take your $
and print the ad without thinking.
If you know the guy is going to throw a party, arrange for him to find out that
somebody was going to crash his party, dressed up like cops. Then call the cops
telling them of a real rowdy party going on.
If your college uses computers to handle admissions, try this. Fill out course
withdrawl forms in the losers name. Then enter them, they probably won't check.
The guy will go the entire block unknowing, then when grades are posted.
"Where are mine?" "Why didn't I get grades?"
Call your colleges administration, tell them you are the undertaker of your
losers hometown. He just died, please take him off your records, records will
follow. Then call the parents. He just died in a fraternity accident. This will
work better if the guy decides to skip a week or so of classes.
Instead of credit card fraud, just call up the company and tell them that you
just lost your cards. You name? Why it's (insert loser)
If you want, advertise the losers phone number as a Dial A Joke. For bigots,
Dial A Black, etc.
If you dislike a fast food place with a drive thru, try this. Order everything
you can think of. Then just don't go to the window. Do it during dinner hours.
Or, order a normal sized meal, but with extra helpings of mustard. Then the
next car will try the food, then freak out at the joint.
Garage door openers often have dip switches that can be changed to other
combinations. The cheaper the model, the better. Sears sells just the unit.
Say you broke yours or something. Then change the settings.
Wax crayons tossed into a wash do wonders to whites or anything else.
There is a whole section of phun things to do with a phone.
Call in a bomb threat to a school or something, then leave the handset offhook.
Of course, do this only at the losers house. Someone will visit.
Call Ma Bell, and report that your loser is using Blue Boxes. Tell them it is
your civic duty... Don't do this to someone who knows what they are though.
The phone co doesn't believe in innocence.
Ads placed in papers saying that (insert loser) will sell YOU! the plans to a
device enabling inexpensive calls. Mention that you keep no records.
If you are getting back at somebody with a multi-line system, this is good.
Place a large magnet where the line comes in. When one phone rings, they all do
If you can get a private minute with your marks phone, and the handset is
modular, cover the handset plug with clear nail polish. The phone rings, then
its unlimited "Hello?" "Hello?"
Remove the pins from all but one of the hinges of a front door of a business.
The door will work fine, for a while, then fall off. People start screaming.
Add luminescent paint into the cans of someone who is painting their fence.
Then, at night, it glows.
Get some copper paint and paint a small line across the insulator of a spark
plug in a car. They'll never find it.
If your loser gets a parking ticket, get it before he sees it. Then get a stamp
flicking the cops off. Send it in with no money.
If you dislike a pet hater, here's one.
Advertise that you(the loser) wuold like to buy all unwanted strays. $10 for
each one. Then call the SPCA, telling them that the loser wants the animals to
conduct black masses and pagan rites.
Laxatives slipped into dogfood does wonders.
Or better yet, toss some normal meat into the dog-owners yard. Then call him
up(in a disguised voice) and tell him you saw a suspicious person hanging
around the yard....
Mail a letter to the Chief Executive detailing the sexual acts you(the loser)
would like to commit, the Secret Service investigates this with no humor.
PA systems in department stores are great. Just walk up to a deserted unit,
look around, then deliver the most disgusting statement you can think of.
Call about thirty people, telling them they just won a sweepstakes. Answer the
questions, no obligation, it's just to show how generous people are. Then give
the losers phone number to call for more info.
Remember two things, hot metal and hot glass do not look different from cool.
(as long as it's not too hot)
Western Telegram has a check on everything going through. Certain key words
trip alarms. Guns, Drugs, Sex, Terrorist, etc all ring bells. Have fun
- **************************************
Ok, I guess that's then end of the good ones. I left all the destructive ones
SELECT *>
[Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,<CR>=abort:40
[Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit]
::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
How to Make and Use Nitroglycerin.
::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
CH2ONO2
! 3/2 N2 + 3 CO2
CHONO2 ----------> +
! Ignition 5/2 H2O + 1/4 O2
CH2ONO2
(How Nitro explodes--note that the
byproducts are nothing but nitrogen,
carbon dioxide, water and oxygen)
::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
Nitroglycerin [heretofore
Nitro] is a very powerful high-
explosive. I am not sure who
invented it but he probably didn't--
the first person to make it
probably blew himself up and his
freind got the info off his notes.
Well anyway, the next best thing to
Nitro is TNT which is ten times
harder to make but also ten times
safer to make. If you can't use
nse then dont even TRY
to make this stuff--a few drops can
bbcircumstances.
::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
To make Nitro:
== ==== ======
Mix 100 parts fuming nitric acid
(for best results it should have a
specific gravity of 50 degrees Baume')
with 200 parts sulphuric acid. This
is going to be HOT at first--it won't
splatter if you pour the nitric INTO
the sulphuric but don't try it the
other way around. The acid solutions
together can disolve flesh in a matter
of seconds so take the proper measures
for God's sake!!! When cool, add 38
parts glycerine as slowly as possible.
Let it trickle down the sides of the
container into the acids or it won't
mix thourily and the reaction could
go to fast--which causes enough heat
to ignite the stuff. Stir with a
- *GLASS** rod for 15 seconds or so
then CARFULLY pour it into 20 times
it's *VOLUME* of water. It will
visibly precipitate immediatly. there
will be twice as much Nitro as you
used glycerin and it is easy to
separate. Mix it with baking soda
as soon as you have separated it--
this helps it not to go off
spontainously.
::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
NOTES: Parts are by weight and the
Baume' scale of spicific gravity can
be found in most chem. books. You
can get fuming nitric and sulfuric
acids wherever good chemicals or
fertilizers are sold. It is
positivly *STUPID* to make more
than 200 grams of Nitro at a time.
When mixing the stuff wear goggles,
gloves, etc. When I first made
the stuff I had the honor of having
it go off by itself (I added too
much glycerine at a time.) I was
across the room at the time, but
I felt the impact--so did the table
it was on as well as the window it
was next to--they were both smashed
by only 25 grams in an open bowl.
Oh, yes, glycerine you can get at
any pharmacy and you need an adult
signature for the acids. Any bump
can make Nitro go off if you don't
add the bicarbonate of (baking)
soda--but even with that, if it
gets old I wouldn't play catch with
it.
::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
Once you have made the Nitro and
saturated it with Bicarb. you can make
a really powerful explosive that won't
go off by itself by simply mixing it
with as much cotton as you can and
then saturating that with molten
((parifine--just enough to make it
sealed and hard. Typically, use the
same amounts (by weight) of each
Nitro, cotton and parifine. This,
when wrapped in newspaper, was once
known as "Norbin & Ohlsson's Patent
Dynamite," but that was back in 1896.
Presented by:
-=* M I N E S of M O R I A *=-
318 - 988 - 4038
THE 1200 BAUD CONNECTION
[Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,<CR>=abort:61
[Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit]
(Formated 80col and Full Keyboard)
Mercury Distrubriting Presents...
(*-> -------------------------------------------------------------------- <-*)
Car Thrashing
Written by: ~~~ ~~~~~~~~~ Call:
Mr. "Budman" Zeek (503) 253 - 5300
(*-> -------------------------------------------------------------------- <-*)
There are many ways to thrash someones car. But they basicly fall under
2 topics. These are, 1 to just fuck it up and 2, to distroy it. As long
as your at it don't for get to steal the stero & speakers.
The following are type 1 tricks to pull of on someones car.
Sweet-Gas: This involves taking the gas cap off of you victums car. If it
--------- is a locking cap break it off. Or you might pry it off, resort to
"Jocky Boxin" by Mr. Zeek if un fimiler with these tecniqes. Once you have
the gas cap off pour 4 or 5 pounds of white sugar in there gas tank. Now
when the start there car up and drive away they will go about 2 miles or so
then the car will crap out and they will have to pay some