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Newsgroups: rec.backcountry
From: czichon@psyche.csc.ti.com (Cary Czichon)
Subject: Mera Peak (Nepal) Trekking Report
Message-ID: <C2Io4D.A00@csc.ti.com>
Organization: Texas Instruments
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1993 01:00:12 GMT
Lines: 1017
I publish the quarterly newletter for TI's mountaineering club. The club has
members in North America and in Europe. Occasionally, I receive trip reports
from people who've completed once-in-a-lifetime climbs. Readers of this
newsgroup contemplating a Himalayan trek should find this report informative.
Cary Czichon
czichon@csc.ti.com
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Mera Peak (21,600 feet), Nepal
by
Chris Ellingham
INTRODUCTION
This is the account of a four week trekking expedition in November 1992 to a
trekking peak, Mera Peak, in the Himalayas. I've written it chiefly as an
expansion of the informal diary I kept with some additional explanatory
material.
The term trekking peak is a legal designation meaning that the Peak is one
of 18 mountains in Nepal between 18,330 feet and 21,830 feet which may be
climbed by foreign parties upon payment of a small fee ($150 to $300 for a
party of 10) to the Nepalese government and completion of a, comparatively
small, set of documents. Although all the trekking peaks can be reached
without technical mountaineering (we did) technical mountaineering is allowed
by the same permit. The permit requires that parties promise to observe
certain rules - eg. on taking Sherpa guides and on the payment and insurance for
trek staff - and to remove litter etc. Perhaps "non-expedition" would be a
better designation than "trekking".
By contrast there are another 104 peaks which foreign parties are allowed
access to. These are for major expeditions and require a large amount of red
tape to be completed before a permit will be granted. The permits are also
considerably more expensive. The number of parties is rationed - I believe
that there is a 10 year waiting list for Everest. Not all peaks can be legally
climbed. Some peaks are sacred and no access is allowed.
Our expedition was organised by North West Frontiers of Ullapool, Scotland.
The company handled all local arrangements, flight bookings etc. All we had to
do was to turn up in a reasonable state of fitness with suitable kit!
As I hope you will gather from the account the expedition was not a grim,
survival experience but an extremely enjoyable month with a group of strangers
who rapidly became good friends. Teasing and chaff was the order of the day -
as you will find below.
This was my second trip to the Himalayas. My first, in 1988, was straight trek
without any real snow or ice work. The highest point we reached than was
16,800 feet. Andy (see below) led that trip too, and John was also in the
party.
DRAMATIS PERSONAE
Andy:
A professional trek leader with his own company, North West frontiers, which
organises walking holidays in the Scottish Highlands and Islands, and a number
of overseas trips (such as this one). A relaxed and knowledgeable leader.
Just about accepted designation of his assistant as Young Andy, but certainly
didn't like the suggestion of "Old Andy" for himself. Whoops, there goes any
chance of my negotiating a discount for the next trek!
Young Andy:
Another professional trek leader who works on occasions for Andy. An
experienced mountaineer who has been on major expeditions in South America.
Joined us late in the trek to assist on the ascent of Mera. He came from
working as assistant leader for a climbing party in the Annurpana area.
Ian:
A Scottish forestry manager in his late 30s who carried a St Andrew's Cross
flag to plant on the summit. (Took a dim view of any suggestions that this was
an English party). An experienced walker in the Scottish hills, but this was
his first visit to the Himalayas. His wife hadn't joined the party, though she
insisted upon his keeping a thorough diary. Instead she was off on a Caribbean
cruise with his sister after his return to Scotland.
John:
A personnel manager in his late 30s from Liverpool, and proud of it. He and I
both went to the Himalayas for the first time, with Andy, back in 1988. He's
returned just about every year since then. This in fact was his third attempt
at Mera - the two previous attempts had been beaten by delayed flights and bad
weather.
Kevin:
Active retired accountant, who had re-discovered the joys of walking in
Scotland with North West Frontiers. After that it seemed a natural progression
to him to join us on a trek to Mera.
Rosemary:
Another Himalayan first timer who was spending an extended vacation on the
Indian sub-continent. She'd been on a month's meditation course in one of the
monasteries in Kathmandu before setting out on this trek, and was going on to
India afterwards. Given to practicing Yogic Assanas in the morning long before
anyone but the kitchen staff were awake.
An Kami:
The "Sirdar" or trek boss. Responsible for all the local arrangements eg. food
purchasing, employment of other staff, and generally ensuring the trek ran
smoothly. Young by traditional standards to be a Sirdar, but extremely
competent. Also a demon card player: we came to the realisation that he
didn't "pay" the porters, but just "lent" them money so he could win back over
cards. An exaggeration, but a grain of truth in it!
Lapka and Nander:
The climbing Sherpas. Vastly experienced with major climbs on the South face
of Everest, Annurpana etc to their credit. In character as different as chalk
and cheese. Nander the extrovert whose motto is "No problem!". Lakpa the
introvert, but, with an air of calm professionalism which inspired great
confidence.
Sanjay:
The Cook. Had the ability to produce wonderful meals in the most difficult
conditions. (The food was so good that Andy's store of "goodies", intended to
make up for any deficiencies in the cooking remained untouched until late in
the trek. We only opened it then because Andy insisted it be eaten!) Revealed
that he had already ascended Mera 4 times, but wouldn't join us this time on
top - he felt he'd seen the view enough times.
Passang and Dawa:
The Sherpas - a grade lower in status than the Climbing Sherpas. Responsible
for guiding (ie. making sure none of us got lost) and acted as mountain porters
- ie. carried the tents up to our high camp on Mera. Both were cheerful and
resourceful.
Kitchen staff and porters:
A variable number accompanied us to carry the equipment and food. As the food
was eaten the porters were paid off. Got to know a few names, particularly
those who carried our kitbags. Mainly Sherpas but some Rai (another Nepalese
tribe). The most memorable character was Lapka Kitchen Boy (so called to
distinguish him from Lapka Sherpa) who was never without a broad grin and a
joke. Obviously going to be a cook before long.
Note - Sherpa. A confusing term! It is the name of an ethnic group who live
in the Khumbu region of Nepal. However, it also a "job description"
meaning a Guide in a party as opposed to the porters or kitchen staff.
Fortunately its generally clear from the context which is meant.
A TYPICAL DAY
(The timings are very approximate. Although I wore a watch I took very little
notice of it.)
06:30
Woken in our tents by the Kitchen Boys with the traditional cry of "Morning!
Tea? Milik? Sugcar?" Tea served to us in our sleeping bags. Bowls of hot
water for washing brough round.
07:00
Breakfast is eaten either in the mess tent or outside, depending upon the state
of the weather and how urgently the staff need to get the tent down. Porridge,
eggs (scrambled, fried or boiled) fresh chapatis with jam, and tea or coffee
was the standard menu.
Pack personal gear not required during the day into kit bags to be carried by
the porters.
08:30
Start walking. Except on the ascent to the high camp on Mera we only carried
light day packs containing stuff we'd need during the day - eg. camera and film,
rainwear, a spare fleece, and as we got higher, a down jacket to pull on when
not actually walking.
Except for the three days on the snow and ice of Mera itself we were walking on
rough, but generally well worn, paths. Lightweight walking boots were more
than adequate - except when it snowed on the last day!
A morning's walking typically covers no more than 4 to 5 miles - though there
may be 3,000 feet, or more, of ascent or descent. There are two reasons for
this apparent slow pace: the altitude and the necessity not to become
separated from the porters. The altitude slows one down because, obviously,
with less air it becomes more tiring to walk at a fast pace, but also because
you need to take it easily to allow your body to adjust. By far the most
frequent cause of altitude sickness is climbing too quickly. Although
accustomed to the altitude the porters are slowed by heavy loads (can be as
high as 60 pounds) and poor footwear. (Some of the porters carrying rice,
maize etc for local merchants are paid so much per pound weight of load, and
can carry 120 pounds or more).
Except on very steep sections, or on ice the party can spread out as individual
paces and desire for solitude, conversation or photo opportunities dictate.
The only rules are "don't get in front of the designated lead Sherpa, or behind
the sweep Sherpa" and "if you need to relieve yourself, leave your pack on the
trail then go off trail. Bury or, better, burn any toilet paper used - what do
you mean you forgot to put any in your day pack!" Leaving your pack indicates
where you are so nobody else will try to use the same area and ensures that the
sweep Sherpa won't go on without you.
Temperatures started off in the 60s or 70s lower down during the day, and fell
as we got higher. On the morning of our ascent it was approximately -20
degrees.
11:30
Lunch. An extended break which allows the Kitchen staff and Cook time to cook
the lunch. Hot juice was always served (drink as much as possible is another
help for altitude acclimatisation. However, all water was boiled and/or
treated before we drank it!) Western style lunch was generally a selection of
easily cooked dishes from dried or fresh ingredients - eg. rice, pasta with
salami (popularly known as Donkey Dick). Alternatively we could ask for what
the crew are themselves "Dhal Bhat" - lentil curry and rice: ideal food for
climbing in cold conditions on as it is an extremely rich in complex
carbohydrates. Tastes pretty good too.
The lunch break is generally taken by a stream or river which gives you a
chance to wash socks or underwear. If not dry by the time lunch is over just
pin them to your pack. In the thin dry air clothes dry very quickly.
13:30
Start walking again.
16:30
Arrive at camp site, possibly to find tents already erected by the staff. In
any event they soon will be. Afternoon tea is taken (this is a British
expedition!) with biscuits too. (More fluid and more carbohydrates).
Chance to unwind, read, inspect feet for blisters etc. etc.
18:00
Supper. Similar to lunch, but starts with soup, and there is generally a
pudding - normally canned fruit. But when there is enough dead wood for a fire
the Cook may display his skill by baking a cake. Eaten inside the tent as it
is cold and dark by now. After 10,000 feet certainly glad of down jacket -
noticeable that old hands have no silly "loss of machismo" inhibitions about
wearing then.
Tea, hot chocolate and coffee to end the meal, and personal water bottles are
filled with hot water, thus enabling them to act as hot water bottles in the
evening as well as your on trek drinking supply during the day.
The remainder of the evening is spent in the mess tent round the Tilley lamp
chatting, playing cards, and drinking Malt Whiskey (for medicinal purposes).
21:30
Inside a thick, Down, sleeping bag, inside a small two-man tent. Except at
very low altitudes it froze every night, and generally there was hoar frost on
the inside of the tents when we awoke in the morning. It is extremely
important that your bag is good enough - cold nights lead to bad sleep and
exhaustion as the body work overtime to generate enough heat.
Also important to remember to take a final pee before getting into the bag.
Getting up in the middle of the night is VERY cold, particularly if you've
allowed your kit to become disorganised so you can't find your head torch.
DIARY
Day 1:
London Gatwick to Kathmandu. Panic as I forgot to get off the train at Gatwick
and had to get off further down the line and get a Taxi back! Fortunately I'd
allowed plenty of time for mishaps. Remind myself that trips which start off
this badly generally work out well.
Met John, Kevin and Ian at the airport who had arrived in a less frenetic way!
The Nepalese airplane was in for an extended service so we actually flew in an
Irish lease plane. Captain Murphy (I kid you not) did NOT inspire great
confidence with his announcements - "Prepare for Take-Off" on approaching
Frankfurt, and later "we will be cruising at 53,000 feet". The latter sounded
ambitious, and was was corrected to "33,000 feet". Didn't ask what had
happened to the Royal Nepalese aircraft - after the PIA accident at Kathmandu I
didn't want to know!
Day 2:
Arrival Kathmandu. Andy (leader) at airport. Wondeful chaos, diversity and
friendliness. Downside - poverty and pollution. Met the other client,
Rosemary, at the hotel.
Day 3:
AM Sightseeing tour of the temples etc. PM Visit to equipment hire shop. Met
with Sirdar, An Kami. Frantic writing of postcards, and last minute sort and
repack of kit.
Day 4:
Early morning start. Squeezed into a up-market tourist bus, a large Mercedes
minibus. Porters, Sherpas etc at back - clients at front. Luggage everywhere.
Long drive. Flatish to start with, passing through very forgetable townships.
Lunch at Lamosangu with a spectacular "box grid" bridge over a river. After
that the road deteriorated - steeper,more bends, better views and a gearbox
slowly giving up. Made it to Jiri.
Jiri is a hole! At end of road - and making the most of the trekking trade.
Main advantage only 6000 feet vs. 10.000 feet start at Lukla if we'd flown in.
Slept in rough tea house.
Day 5:
Happy chaos in the morning as the porters were assigned their loads for the
first time. So fairly late setting out. At this altitude we're strolling
along in shorts and tee-shirts, with low factor sun cream on arms, legs and
faces.
Easy walk through Pine Forests to lunch at Shivalaya (5,800 feet) - this
downhill can't last. It didn't. A climb to Sangbadanda (7,350 feet) where we
camped. A fair sized village - very busy with trekkers. Large tea
house/lodging house with plentiful supply of beer. Heard that a solo trekker
had had her camcorder stolen from her tent - would have been unheard of in
Nepal 10 years ago. An Kami had the Sherpas taking turns mounting guard duty
over night. In the dark I attempted to pick Dawa up thinking he was my
rucksack! No, he was just sitting there guarding it (plus the rest of our
kit). The other Sherpas found the idea of Dawa being taken for a rucksack
hilarious! I felt extremely foolish and resolved to carry my head torch in the
early evening so I'd be ready for the sudden onset of dark.
Also met a Scandinavian couple there on their way back from Mera. They told us
that it had been very cold on Mera - the woman had suspected frost nip on one
toe. Is this trip a good idea? However, they had succesfully summitted. They
described the views as "fantastic" but the trail to the summit as "very busy".
Health good so far - have I escaped the Kathmandu Quickstep?
Day 6:
No I haven't - feeling off colour and stomach "unhappy". By end of day a
definite low grade fever and slight case of runs. Damn! For next three days
Andy keeps me entertained by reading extracts from his 1988 diary describing my
battle with The Kathmandu Quickstep that time!
John, who shared a tent with me throughout the trip, has a Walkman/Radio and
picked up the early morning English language news from Radio Nepal. Learnt
that Clinton had won the Presidential election last night - unsuccessful search
for the American woman we'd met last night who was asking about the result. We
may be in a wilderness area, but the Western world is still there.
Already An Kami's quality is showing and the assigning of porter loads went
pretty smoothly.
Continued climb towards our first pass (Bhandar Pass - 8,900 feet). Majority
of party ascended above the pass to a Gompa (Monasetry) and Cheese Factory
(sic) which served wonderful yogurt. I was taking things easy, and conserving
my energy to fight off whatever infection I'd picked up, so waited for the
others at the pass. I continued to be told about the "best yogurt we ever
tasted" for the rest of the trek. Decided I could go off fellow trekkers, as
well as off the leader.
Descended to Bhandar/Chyangma (7,200 feet). Stupas, grass fields, and general
feeling of really being on trek.
Well, if I'm going to be ill I might as well be ill somewhere where there are
wonderful views! A new experience for me too - the low foothills of the
Himalayas, green and rolling, for miles and miles. Extend as far as the eye
can see. No real sightings of the major peaks, except on the drive in, yet.
Day 7:
A steep descent to an early rest stop near Surma Kola. One of those perfect
resting places by a stream: plants all around us, a clear, blue sky and fast
flowing clear water. The less poetic amongst us seized the opportunity to wash
socks! I amused myself by taking candid shots of the sock washers.
An easy walk along the Likhu Kola river for a couple of miles followed. Bright
sunshine, and far enough off the main paths for there to be no litter, except
in the immediate vicinity of tea houses. Then came the exciting bit - crossing
the river. From the map this seemed easy - a bridge. The more experienced
reserved judgement until we'd seen the bridge - some bridges here would give
Indiana Jones cause to hesitate! Well, it looked OK - wire hawser and plank
construction. Unfortunately it was under repair - most of the planks at the
far side had been removed. We stepped gingerly across, hanging onto the
handrails and checking that our feet were on solid planks. 50 feet below us
lay a swift flowing river about 100 feet across. As an additional complication
we had to squeeze by the workmen who were busy attaching new planks.
Lunch at Kenja (5,360 feet) - a very prosperous village. Making paper for
re-sale to Kathmandu. Very fine, almost tissue paper like. Used for
traditional religious paintings, now for sale to tourists.
A long steep climb to Sete (8,450 feet). 3.000 feet and 2 miles may not sound
much, but when you're feeling like a slightly warmed up version of death its a
real struggle. Sete is a small settlement with tea houses and a school. We
camped in school house grounds. Most of the villages have a school now, some
funded by a charitable foundation established by Sir Edmund Hillary. This
evening the first, of many, school masters came to solicit a donation.
Meanwhile, I had retreated to tent immediately upon arrival to rest as much as
possible, while drinking as much as possible (water, honest!) to keep myself
hydrated. Disturbed by loud squawkings and much laughter. On putting my head
out of the tent learnt that tonight's supper (a chicken) had escaped capture,
and one of her less fleet footed sisters had been captured and was about to be
curried in her place.
Day 8:
Awoke feeling much better. Decided that fellow trekkers and leader were really
wonderful people - even if they do go on about yogurt and 1988 respectively!
Ridge walk, though gently climbing through fir forest to lunch at Goyun (10,500
feet). An Kami now has trek under full control and spent most of the break
playing a board game which seemed to be a cross between pool, draughts and
tiddly-winks. Never did manage to understand the rules!
A steep, but short, climb to the Lamjura Pass (11,580 feet). The pass itself
was pretty barren and stoney. Also very grey, windy and cloudy so little view.
After the obligatory atmospheric shots of prayer flags against the sky, we
rapidly descended back into the forest where it was rather warmer. Amazing how
rapidly the vegetation, and temperature, changes with a small change in height.
Continued descent to Tragdobuk (9,380 feet) where there was a very pleasant tea
house. (Question: why can't we have nice tea houses in the British Hills?
Mind you, I'd probably be the first to moan about 'desecration' if we did).
Couple of unusual sights: a wind assisted prayer wheel - I've seen water
powered prayer wheels before, but never wind powered. Also, the Buddhist
prayer - "Om Mani Padme Hum", "hail to the jewel of the lotus flower" was
painted in bright primary colours on rocks by the trail. I've seen it carved,
and also occasionally painted in white, but never in colour. Maybe they filmed
one of the Konica film ads here?
Slight rise to collar of hill which gave a good view down to our campsite at
the village of Junbesi (8,775 feet). Junbesi is an attractive village at the
head of a valley, with an old and beautiful Gompa. After dropping our kit at
the campsite Rosemary and I went to visit the Gompa: the standout feature was
a wonderfully serene statue of the Buddha. Since Rosemary is a practicing
Buddhist and observed the correct rituals (plus we both contributed to the
collection box) the old man who had opened the Gompa for us took us upstairs to
the library. Amazing wood carvings showing visions of both Nirvana (the state
of enlightenment) and Demons. Also a large collection of old religious
scrolls.
Lost any merit points towards my next rebirth which I may have gained from this
visit, by seeking out the tea house and sharing a couple of beers with Ian,
John, Kevin and Andy. My first since day 5 - very welcome too.
Day 9:
Despite its comparatively low altitude Junbesi is something of a frost trap.
Definite, but slight hoar frost on the inside of the tent when we awoke in the
morning.
An easy climb through forest to the Sallung ridge (10,000 feet). Shortly
before the high point, at Sallung (9,750 feet), we took an extended morning
break. So far we'd had few views of the high peaks. As we came round the
corner approaching Sallung we found (yet another) tea house and a magnificent
view: with clear skies we saw a panorama of peaks, partially shrouded in
clouds, dominating the skyline in front of us. From left to right (after a
good deal of map reading, argument in three languages (English, Nepalese and
Sherpa) and several cups of tea we positively identified: Mount Everest
(29,032 feet), Kamtenga (22,241 feet), Tramserku (21,680 feet), the triple
summits of Kusum Kangguru (highest 20,900 feet), Mera (21,600 feet) and Nau
Lekh (20,876 feet).
Kevin announced "Now I can die", this caused some alarm until we discovered
that he meant "now I've achieved my ambition and seen Everest".
Descended to Ringmo Khola (8,525 feet) -crowded picnic site - climbed through
the Sherpa village of Ringmo, with visit to cheese factory and yogurt ("still
not as good as we had a few days ago, Chris") to the Traksindo Pass (10,125
feet). Descended 500 feet to Traksindo monastery where we camped. (Very grey
and cloudy).
Day 10:
Trail descends through forests to the Sherpa village of Manidingma (7,200
feet). Continued, steep, descent right down to the Dudh Kosi - Milk River -
(4,900 feet). Lunch at suspension bridge. Steepish climb through the terraces
of the Rai village of Jubing, including a small tea field, then "contoured"
(official description - reality lots of minor ups and downs?) to Kharikola
(6,800 feet) where we camped. Senior school with volleyball court. Still very
cloudy.
Day 11:
Awoke to clear sky. Short but steep ascent through fields, past Nandar's home
to Pangkoma (an unspoilt village). Morning only trek. Lay about in the sun
reading etc. Across the valley was another Gompa - here monks were erecting a
new prayer flag pole - with much banging of gongs, cymbals and drums.
Day 12:
Short climb to monastery. Surprised to be met by just one Monk in his early
20s who lived there alone. (The monks we saw yesterday had travelled up
especially for the ceremony.) In his traditional robes (yellow shirt under
purple wrap around) and less traditional Nike trainers he showed us the prayer
room. Monastery still under repair from earthquake damage of 2(?) years ago.
He then guided us through the forest - bamboo and rhododendron - to rejoin the
main path. An easy climb took us to the pass - Pankoma La (10,400 feet).
Cloud had returned overnight and was obscuring our views of the South face of
Mera. An early stop for lunch (10:30) at Shibuje. The shop here was the last
one before entering the Hinku valley where there are really no shops: the laws
of supply and demand operate in Nepal too, so the prices, by local standards
were extortionate.
Marvellous, misty views down the Hinku but photos just didn't come out - needed
a tripod and LONG exposures. View across to tomorrow's climb and subsequent
ridge walk. Descended, very steeply indeed, to a small bridge (traditional
materials) across the Hinku Khola. The climb was advertised as "tough" to Gai
Kharka. In fact, to make it even tougher, we climbed right up to next village
(better camping). The poorest areas we visited - flimsy, bamboo huts in place
of the stone buildings elsewhere.
Day 13:
As a compensation for yesterday's climb we had a lie-in - bed tea at 7:00.
Luxury! Gentle morning only climb to a wonderful woodland campsite amidst fir
and rhododendrons (10,900 feet). Afternoon spent lying around with books and
walkmans.
Day 14:
Lie in again. Itinerary specifies "A day for rest and acclimatization".
Practice walk up the early stages of tomorrow's route to about 13,000 feet.
Andy's policy of starting low and taking the long route in, rather than flying
to Lukla (10,000 feet) and "sprinting" up to Mera in about a week certainly
seems to be working. Here we are reaching 13,000 feet and I'm hardly aware of
the thinner air. However, the air is getting colder, as well as thinner:
fleeces definitely being worn now - even when walking.
Afternoon spent fitting crampons to Plastic Boots. Much easier to work out,
and to re-adjust fitting of crampons, when your fingers aren't frozen. High on
entertainment value too.
Another party walked by during afternoon. Didn't meet them as our campsite is
a little way off the path.
Day 15:
Early start - with bed tea at 5:00. Groan! Shortly after emerging from forest
we found the other party - also heading for Mera. Felt very morally superior
chatting with them: they were still in their sleeping bags inside the tents
having their morning tea. Any American readers bemused by the English class
system and British humour should skip the rest of this paragraph! The party
was "upper class English" two women and two men. The two men, since we hadn't
been formally introduced ignored us. The two women were much friendlier with
"Sloane Ranger" accents (rather like Princess Di). Promptly nicknamed Fiona
and Caroline (typical Sloane names) by us for the rest of the trek.
Steady walk towards a pass, with a steep climb to the pass itself pass at
14,800 feet. Great viewpoint (allegedly), but the cloud was down so we
couldn't judge for ourselves. Camped near sacred lakes at Chambu Kharka
(13,776 feet). There are five lakes, and five is associated with Lord Shiva in
Hindu mythology. Apparently at certain times of the year these lakes become a
place of pilgrimage for Hindus from both Nepal and India. Spotted several
cairns supporting small, rusting iron tridents: the trident is Shiva's symbol.
The camp itself is in a magnificent natural amphitheatre, with high rocky faces
spanning 270 degrees. A sudden and heavy fall for snow for about an hour,
fortunately after we'd got the tents up. The transformation of the scenery
after such a brief snowfall was quite remarkable.
Day 16:
We ascended briefly, but steeply, out of the campsite. The trail goes in and
out of a number of side valleys before descending (extremely steeply) to the
Hinku River. Happily, the snow had melted away, if it ever settled, on the
steepest part of the descents. I ended up on my butt three times during the
descent - fortunately no damage to myself or sunglasses etc. When not falling
over we could enjoy views up a side valley to Nauleke (20,876 feet). Was it
really just 7 days ago that this was a distant peak for us? Crossed the
stream/river from the side valley by an extremely rickety bridge (all local
materials, including the rope - no wire hawsers this time!) to our lunch spot.
I took the chance to take a brief, but thorough bath, in the river. VERY cold
indeed, hardly surprising, since its source is a glacier. Bath was even more
thorough than I intended since I fell over, again! Well at least today isn't
an ascent/descent of an ice field.
After lunch a delightful walk: first a bamboo forest, with views down the
Hinku Valley. Then a magical rhododendron forest, Arrived at our campsite by
the Hinku Khola, a little below Mosam Kharka (12,106 feet). A bent tree across
the water, Kitchen boy Lakpa (who else) was the first to cross this. For me
this changing of scenery from epic mountains to calm valleys etc is one of the
most attractive features of trekking in the Himalayas
My diary records that the evening was "cheerful". Mainly because we had
decided that from here on we'd better abstain, or at least, greatly reduce the
intake of whiskey. (Alcohol and high altitudes just don't mix.) So tonight
was an opportunity to drink up several days allowance at one go. A loud debate
resulted - on the ethics of trekking in Nepal, I think. The Sherpas, hearing
the noise, were convinced that a fist fight was about to break out! So Lakpa
Kitchen Boy, was sent over to the mess tent to act as peacemaker: fortunately
his services as peacemaker were not required.
Raw garlic eating also started coming into vogue - a traditional Sherpa
preventative against altitude sickness and there is some scientific evidence
that it helps thin the blood. Certainly we had no problems with Vampires on
this trek.
Diary also records "a cold night". This meant *&(*&( freezing!
Day 17:
Path followed West bank of the Hinku Drangka northwards, gradually climbing via
the kharkas of Godishung, Dupishung and Lungsamba. These are all no more than
a few buildings which are only used during the monsoon season when the valley
provides good grazing for the animals driven up from the South.
Two hours up the river to Gondishang (12,860 feet), a kharka with some stone
shelters and mani walls. Trail crossed moraines and boulder fields (yuck!).
Climbed to Dukphu, a tiny Gompa said to be several hundred years old. We were
told that recently it had been inhabited by an Australian Monk for about 5
years.
The walking was easy with good mountain views. The views were constantly
changing as the path curved around bringing the view up different side valleys
into prominence. Beyond Lungsamba the valley narrowed between the flanks of
Kusum Kanguru (20,896 feet) to the West and the truncated far western peak of
Mera (20,522 feet) to the east. It really is true that the Himalayas start
where other mountain ranges finish. Here we were at about 14,000 feet with
6,000 foot peaks above us, and those are some of the smaller peaks! By now we
were liberally plastering on the Sun Screens to block out the intense UV you
experience at altitude. Between these two peaks lies Tagnag, a settlement of
about 12 houses, and 2 tea houses (!) at 14,300 feet inhabited in the summer
and trekking seasons by people from Lukla. Met Young Andy and Passang - plus
supply of cabbages.
The campsite, in a field by one of the tea houses, was dominated by Mera's
western peak: a 5,500 feet rock face cut by diagonal snow bands and draped with
fingers of ice - some trekking peak! This face was first climbed by two
Japanese climbers in the spring of 1985. There were also stunning views of
Peak 43 - Char Pati Himal (22,208 feet).
We arrived in the early afternoon and were the only party there. During the
afternoon I, Young Andy, Ian and John scrambled up the huge moraine to the
North to a beautiful glacial lake, the Sabai Tsho, into which plummets the
hanging Sabai Glacier.
However, despite the wonderful surroundings Tagnag itself is a pretty dreary
place, and a cold campsite. Definitely glad of my down jacket and sleeping
bag.
Day 18:
Another acclimatisation day. The standard route is to walk straight up to
Khare (16,729 feet) but Andy, wisely I think, prefers to have people climb
above 16,000 feet in the morning, and then move to a campsite at Dig Kharka
(15,000 feet).
So in the morning we climbed 2,000 feet up the hill behind Tagnag (16,300 feet
but no name!) to gain even more impressive views of Mera's West face and of
Peak 43. Young Andy, John, Ian and I "stormed up like trains", Andy's
description - not mine, so it looks encouraging for Mera itself. Kevin and
Rosemary moved at a more "mature" pace (careful choice of words) but still
going well. Discovered that Ian was planning to try for an altitude record for
playing the penny whistle on Mera, so he had a practice session at our highest
point. I've brought a TI baseball hat with me for my summit portrait: maybe I
can persuade ASIC or FPGA to pay me for the photo and use it in an advertising
campaign? "TI on top of the world" or "TI scales the heights others cannot
reach?" perhaps? Reluctantly decide that I'm probably suffering from delusions
of grandeur as a result of altitude. John has got something in his pack for
his summit portrait, but won't reveal what it is.
Returned to Tangnag for lunch. Considerably more crowded as three groups
("Fiona and Caroline", an Australian group, and a party led by a cheerful
Dutchman have arrived during the morning.
An easy afternoon strolling up to Dig Kharka (15,000 feet). Once again the
setting of the campsite was spectacular and was dominated by the abruptlky
terminated crest of the Charpati Himal that forms Peak 43. Although higher the
campsite was considerably warmer and more pleasant than Tangnag. By a stream
with a good cave amongst the boulders for the staff - warmer than the mess
tent, as they could build a fire in the cave.
Day 19:
Late tea, breakfast and washing session.
From Dig Kharka the path meandered through the moraines and across streams at
the snout of the Hinku Nup and Shar Glaciers and then climbed more steeply to
Khare (15,800 feet). Khare is a dirty place! Soil more or less frozen all
year round, so lack of bacteria and insects to break down the evidence of human
habitation. Only recommendation is that its the last place flat enough to
pitch tents on before you reach the snow and ice of the glacier.
Day 20:
Ascent of Mera La. (Next time Nander tells me it takes 20 minutes to walk
somewhere I'll remember he means 90 minutes - maybe its just the difference
between Sherpa and Sahib pace. Part of the growing evidence of the truth of
the rumour that Sherpas have three lungs.) Anyway, as a result of his estimate
I left my light boots in the camp and spent an extremely uncomfortable 90
minutes walking over scree in plastic double boots to the foot of the glacier.
General pause for boot changing (for the wiser members of the party) and
crampon pulling on. During the break, as well as cursing Nander, I assembled a
small collection of stones and photoed them on the glacier: the stones are
presents for friends and family - the photo is to try and convince the sceptics
that I didn't just pick them up from the gravel parking area behind my house in
Bedford!
However, once actually on the glacier, very glad of the boots. Spent 30
minutes or so taking dramatic (ie. "pose"y photos of one another ascending the
glacier) and being given lessons on crampon technique. One's first time on a
steep ice slope in crampons is always odd. To gain maximum grip one has to
roll the ankle "out" so that the sole of the foot is parallel to the slope:
this means that the crampon points are perpendicular to the ice, and are
therefore all gripping the ice. All very logical. BUT since its the reverse
of how you slimb in snow or loose stones in ordinary boots - when you try to
work the upslope edge of the boot into the slope - it feels unnatural. I was
one of the fortunate ones who had already learnt the technique. (Back in April
92 I went on a Rainier Mountaineering Inc (RMI) snow and ice course on Rainier:
highly recommended as a chance to try gear out and learn snow and ice
techniques before going on a big trek.)
My turn to be smug at lunchtime - sitting on the glacier. I had a thermarest
bum/bun pad, others had to sit on their rucksacks - colder and less
comfortable.
Climb to the La. Proved to be highest point Kevin and Rosemary were to reach.
However the La is a magnificent place it itself, and a helluva'n achievement to
reach.
Return to Khare and many mugs of tea. Altitude is very dehydrating. Dutch
leader came over to see if Andy had a particular drug in his first aid kit:
one of his party had symptoms of tapeworm infestation. Great! Just what you
want to hear about while drinking tea and eating biscuits! More seriously did
ram home the importance of hygene.
Day 21:
Unfortunately after overnight consideration Rosemary and Kevin both decided not
to attempt the summit. However, for the rest of us it proved to be another
clear day with little wind. Certainly more than made up for all the cloudy
weather lower down. The plan was for Ian, John, both Andys, myself, An Kami,
Nander and Lapka to camp high. Dawa and Passang were to act as mountain
porters helping to carry the tents, cooking gear etc to the high camp, but
returning to Khare for the night.
We retraced yesterdays steps, except that we climbed much higher on a rocky
shoulder before going onto the glacier. (Discovered that yesterday's long
glacier session was unnecessary, but we'd been taken on it to practice crampon
technique.) Progress was slower as this time we were carrying proper packs
containing sleeping bags and all the clothing we needed. Pausing briefly on
the La we climbed higher to establish the camp at about 19,500 feet at about
two o'clock. We had three tents: Ian, John, and myself in one, The two Andys
in the second, and the Sherpas in a third. At this altitude, and for the
relatively rich Climbing Sherpas, all distinctions of kit disappeared - the
tents were similar, the Sherpas' actually had more features, and all three had
plastic double boots, down jackets etc.
The campsite was well used, though a little cleaner than Khare, and we met a
single Japanese trekker there. He was a day ahead of us, so had summitted
while we were climbing up from Khare and we met him on his way down.
The view from the campsite was unforgettable and, because we were camping
there, we also had the privilege of watching the peaks with the evening sun
upon them. Sweeping round from the East were Kanchenjunga, Chamlang, Makalu
and Baruntse. To the North Everest peered over the massive South Face of
Lhotse and the Nuptse/Lhotse wall. Continuing Westward the peaks of Ama Dablam
(the most beautiful mountain I've yet seen), Cho Oyu and Kangtega. All around
are untracked glaciers. Behind us was an uninterrupted curve of ice and snow
leading to the three main peaks of Mera.
Once we'd helped pitch the tent we disappeared inside to keep warm - emerging
briefly at four o'clock for the evening light views and photo opportunity.
With the temperature falling rapidly, back into the tents. Andy had warned us
that we'd lose our appetite at this altitude, but that we must keep taking as
much liquid as we could and to push down as much sweet stuff as we could bear.
Supper was noodle soup, and, just in case we hadn't lost our appetites, some
Kerosene had found its way into the soup instead of the stove!
A hilarious game of cards followed, with everybody crammed into one tent:
local rules required that one shout out the card played for the benefit of
those who couldn't see it. I don't recall when we actually got into the
sleeping bags but it was early!
I actually got a much better night's sleep than I anticipated. I had a slight
headache initially, but swilling down a liter of water fixed that problem. I
had decided that I'd try sleeping with just my heavy weight thermals, socks and
balaclava on so I would have enough clothes to put on in the morning to
minimise the temperature shock. In fact I was wonderfully warm all night. So
were my boots, both inner and outer, and water bottles which shared the bag
with me. Left outside the inner boots would have been stiff as a board, The
outer boots, themselves, would have been OK but frozen laces are never easy to
tighten and tie.
Day 22:
Officially awoken at 5 am. - an hour later than planned - with a mug of coffee.
The Sherpas weren't any keener than we were to get out of their sleeping bags,
hence, I suspect the delay in waking us. The Andys estimated the temperature
as -22 degrees Farhenheit ie. 54 degrees of frost. The coffee was almost
unbearably sweet, but at least it didn't have any Kerosene in it!
We all emerged from the tents wearing every item of clothing, well at least I
did. This meat heavy thermals, fleece salopettes, two fleece tops, down
jacket, balaclava gaiters and an outer layer of Goretex cagoule and salopettes.
This actually proved to be too much and after 20 minutes I removed the cagoule
and unzipped the down. Very light packs indeed!
We started out in semi-darkness with sunrise coming shortly. I felt a strong
sense of unreality - walking this high, on snow, amongst "real" mountains was
something I had read about, had watched on TV, and fantasised about as a child.
I never thought I'd really experience this. I'm not ashamed to say that a few
tears came to my eyes - even if they, the tears that is, did freeze up!
Besides the cold the biggest problem was the altitude. I consulted some
textbooks when I returned home and discovered that at 20,000 feet the air is,
on average, half the density at sea level. That means, obviously, you only get
half the Oxygen you're used to - actually its a bit better than that, because
the body tries to compensate by generating extra red blood corpuscles to
increase the amount of Oxygen you can absorb from each breath. Progress is,
inevitably, slow. Panting with so little air is very unrewarding and your pace
naturally slows right down in an attempt to avoid getting into any oxygen debt
at all. Unfortunately on steep slopes you can't slow down enough. Initially
we would walk for just a few minutes, stop for a quick pant, and repeat for ten
minutes or so before stopping for a longer break. During these longer breaks
Nander would light up a cigarette! I found that unless I exhaled hard, to
force myself to breathe deeply I had a nasty "winded" feeling in the diaphragm.
The trail was well walked, and wove carefully around the open crevasses We
still had to cross unopened crevasses - very odd feeling to step across a 2
inch gap in the snow knowing that below could be a 50 foot, or more, drop!
Such crevasses, and cornice edges were marked with flags on yard long sticks of
bamboo.
Romantic notions of blazing a fresh trail disappear rapidly. First because you
don't want to discover a crevasse, and secondly because off the path you sink
up to your thigh in the softer snow. We started in boots only, but, as the
slope steepened towards 45 degrees we put crampons on. Crampons grip the snow
and ice better, but on shallower slopes slow you down. However, the snow was
so firm, under the soft covering off the trail, that the Sherpas and leaders
decided we didn't need to rope up. We had the full kit of harnesses, rope and
ice axes available and extra "hardware" was shared between the Sherpas and
leaders in case of real problems.
It was a long, slow, and very hard pull to the summit which we reached at about
11:00 - about 5 hours to climb 3,000 feet. Much backslapping, handshakes and
hugs ("I say chaps, what happened to the traditions of British reserve"). The
main summit was protected by a 15 foot wide crevasse, so the official trekking
summit for 1992 was a little lower. The heights quoted by the government
regulations, the different maps and the various guidebooks all differ. We're
sticking to our claim of 6,600 m or 21,600 feet!
I then found that during the ascent I'd hit my camera lens against something so
it was skew-whiff and stuck. At least the focus was at infinity! I took
panoramic shots in the desperate hope that the camera was still in focus. In
fact the photos are pretty good.
The panoramic views were, naturally, even more stunning than the views from the
campsite. Clear views of FOUR of the world's FIVE highest mountains - Everest,
Kanchenjunga, Lhotse and Makalu. Plus a good view all the way down the Hinku
valley that we'd walked up for so long.
We only stayed on top for 20 minutes or so. Ian played his penny whistle
(briefly!) and planted the St Andrew's Cross. I posed for John to take my
picture wearing TI hat with Everest in background, and John produced his summit
surprise ....... a Father Christmas beard! (His brother in law is a clergyman
and wanted a picture of Father Christmas on a snowy mountain for Children's
parties.)
A rapid descent to the campsite followed. Crampons all the way, I kept my
descent controlled, though rapid, by constantly reminding myself that more
accidents happen on descents than ascents, due to over relaxing and loss of
concentration. John and I sped down in 70 minutes to the camp. An Kami had
remained there and greeted us with hot juice and hot canned fruit. Wonderful!
Once we had all helped pack the tents and kits we descended, somewhat more
slowly, over the La to the glacier and onto the moraine shoulder. Here met by
Passang with our regular boots. I felt like I was walking on air with the
sudden change in weight of boot. The wonderful man even carried the plastic
boots down for us. A long descent to Dig Kharka and a warm welcome from Kevin,
Rosemary and the staff. Arrived at about half past four - after a descent of
over 6,000 feet. All in all a very long and very exhausting day! The extra
descent was worth it to reach a warm, comparatively, campsite. However, the
descent and exertion brought my headache back with a vengeance. Eventually
cured after pouring down water until I felt like a water filled balloon!
Certainly no Whiskey celebrations, though. To bed early, both tired and happy.
Day 23:
After the high drama of the last three days an uneventful day. A late start
(which allowed us to wash both ourselves and our kit). Both were pretty
smelly, but as we were all as bad as each other, nobody had cared on the
mountain.) I celebrated return to lower (sic) altitudes by wearing shorts
again. Rose above the resulting general derision.
Looking up to the La we could see snow being blown up by the wind. We had been
so lucky to hit a good window in the weather yesterday!
Then retraced our route to Tangnang. After lunch we stayed on the West bank of
the river and reached a new campsite at Tashing Dingma (11,489 feet) - below
the tree line. Met a French party there whom we practiced our (bad) French on.
A full scale party that evening.
Day 24:
Despite the hangovers we managed a day of consistent ascent to Thuli Kharka
(14,760 feet) above the tree line once more. Another remarkable campsite!
Above us, overlooking the pass we were to climb the next day, an amazing
mushroom shaped stack of rock. Below us a layer of cloud, extending as far as
we could see, trapped at about 12,000 feet. Apparently due to temperature
inversion. Very beautiful, with mountains peaks like islands in a sea of
cloud. More prosaically, it might mean a complete change in the weather.
Day 25:
It did! Very, heavy grey clouds above us when we woke in the morning. A heavy
fall of snow seemed imminent. Staff and clients alike gobbled breakfast,
packed kit in record time and sprinted for the Zatrwala pass (14,950 feet), to
try and beat the snow there. Almost made it!
However, the descent was a nightmare! With thick snow falling we had to rig a
rope to descend the first steep slope from the top of the pass. I managed some
good photos os some very professional looking descents - especially by Rosemary
who had never used a rope in her life before! After that it was a slow grind
down a steep and very slippery slope. I spent more time sitting down that
standing. (I MUST get some boots with better grip for these situations -
however new boots were hard to find that day). We clients all made it down
safely, but Lapka Kitchen Boy took a tumble - he was OK but overenthusiasm will
be the death of him!
The original plan was to camp in a woodland clearing at Chutanga Kharka (11,300
feet). Sopping wet and cold we paused for lunch instead, and then, by
unanimous consent, stormed onto Lukla. Lukla used to be a village of little
importance. Now it is a major trekking point because it has an airstrip which
enables people to save a day on the traditional walk in to Everest. It also
has many lodging houses with luxuries like stoves!
Day 26:
At rest in Lukla. Weather changed completely again and is warm and sunny. The
kit drys beautifully. Most of the day spent watching other trekkers and
planes. One day somebody is going to gather material here for a Psychology
Ph.D. thesis! Only about 60% of the scheduled flights actually happen owing to
cloud conditions at Kathmandu or at Lukla. (No such thing as instrumentation
only landings at Lukla on a dirt runway, which is on a slope, with twin engined
Otter planes. Even Kathmandu doesn't have proper facilities - as was
tragically proved by the PIA crash there earlier in the year.) As a result
rumours spread, intrigues seeth, bribes are paid, all in a desperate bid to be
on one of the flights that does happen! We were assured that after long
interruptions to service of 2 or 3 days, not infrequent, the first flight out
from Kathmandu brings police reinforcements to control the trekkers who can be
at near riot point!
Said farewell to the trek crew. Andy presented them with our thanks, and the
customary tips (very well deserved). We had also respect the other end of trek
tradition and donated unwanted kit to be shared between the porters.
Andy insisted on dragging us round Lukla until he found a party that evening.
I will maintain a discrete silence on why we had to retreat from the party
early! Even if I survived the libel lawyers I fear some embarrassing stories
about me would emerge too. A good end to the trek though.
Day 27:
Thanks to local contacts (we were listed on the passenger list as "priority")
we were on the second flight out. The take off is always exciting as you
bounce down the runway knowing that there is a drop of several thousand feet at
the end. This time the stall alarm sounded briefly as we took off!
Fortunately those who were most frightened of the flight didn't realise what
the noise meant. Ignorance can be bliss.
Back to civilisation, showers, CNN and BBC World Service in the hotel reception
area. Well it was civilisation until the WWF Main Event came on.
First stop was the San Francisco Pizza Parlour (a locally owned and run
establishment) and the demolition of a large pile of pizzas. This was an
enjoyable compromise between the natural desire to find the best and biggest
buffalo steak in town and abstinence.
Andy had counselled us to try and control our temptation to binge - for the
last three and a half weeks we'd been on a simple diet, so too much rich food
could easily cause an upset stomach. Besides, on trek the staff were
punctillious with observing hygiene rules. In Kathmandu this may not be the
case. Stick to the restaurants people have eaten at safely in the past! Young
Andy said his previous party had gone to a new Thai restaurant on their last
night, the next morning over half of them got onto the flight with the
Kathmandu Quickstep. We avoided that restaurant.
Day 28:
In Kathmandu. Sightseeing, souvenir buying, and more (semi-controlled) eating.
A farewell meal with An Kami in "KC's" - one of the Restaurants that made its
name back in the 60s when Kathmandu was on the hippy trail.
Day 29:
I don't think its worth adding much to the itinerary "Depart Kathmandu, arrive
London."
AFTERTHOUGHT
My next article will talk about some of the practicalities of organising a
trip. However, I'd certainly recommend North West Frontiers unreservedly for
anyone considering a Himalayan Trek or a walking holiday in Scotland or Europe.
Its a small company, so the number of treks is smaller than that offered by the
large companies, but the quality is exceptional. Address and Phone Number
are as follows.
Andrew Bluefield
North West Frontiers
19, West Terrace
ULLAPOOL,
Rossshire IV26 2UU
SCOTLAND
Phone is International + 44 854 612571
Fax is International + 44 854 612025
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
Thanks to Robert Wong, Steve Rice and Mike Adams who spotted a glorious, but
highly embarassing, typo in the first draft of this article. Further thanks to
Robert for spell checking the first draft and for pointing out where my British
English didn't translate into American English!