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Ciaran Mather, 13 Jun
It could very well be argued that Lawlor’s Hotel is one of the star
attractions of Naas — perhaps even the linchpin of the town.
Now, the 110-year-old hotel, which was recently awarded a four-star
rating, has expanded out and has crafted a brand-new restaurant from
the ground up: Vi’s Restaurant.
Named after Violette Lawlor, the daughter-in-law to Brigid Lawlor the
hotel founder, Vi was described in national papers as 'a glamorous
socialite with a glass of bubbles in her hand', she was celebrated for
her style and elegance and her parties were renowned.
According to its press release, Vi’s say that it would promise
'eclectic interiors alongside a premium brasserie style menu that
offers diners a fresh new style of dining full of favours, elegantly
presented with quality at the forefront.'
Press releases often serve to build up hype around something, but this
one was indeed honest: as soon as one walks into the venue, there is an
overpowering, yet reassuring, feeling of class.
The restaurant can host 100 people, and has a cone-shaped round bar as
a centrepiece to perfectly accommodate the needs of its customers, and
to cultivate a welcoming and multicultural atmosphere, which is
well-lit despite the encroaching darkness of the night outside,
allowing for a spectacular view of the hotel’s garden.
Chief executive officer of Lawlor’s, Dee Nixon, explained that this was
very much by design: she explained that the interior of Vi’s is an
eclectic mix of pieces from all over the world.
Guests who enter into the restaurant in fact enter through large, brass
doors taken from a cash desk in Las Vegas, and the bar’s stools are
from a casino in Monte Carlo.
There is a story behind each carefully selected item, curated to
compliment the Lawlor’s dining experience.
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out_it__this_week_s_leinster_leader_in_shops_and_online_.jpg?1686587788
229]
READ ALL ABOUT IT! This week's Leinster Leader in shops and online!
FOOD
For appetisers, a mix of starter foods was provided: these included
Tomato and Prosciano Cheese Aranici Rice Balls; Panko Crumbed Pulled
Chicken Croquette with Remoulade Sauce and Pickled Mushrooms; and
Pressed Ham Hock and Jane Russell’s Black Pudding Terrine.
Although each of the three dishes were exquisite in their own right,
the best of the trio was the Pressed Ham Hock: it was cooked to
perfection, and as a result, it’s juicy texture provided a real treat
for the tastebuds.
Another mix of dishes were prepared for the main course; the Hotel’s
trademark 'Surf and Turf on the Stone' made a comeback.
Consisting of a medallion of Prime Irish Beef Fillet, it was followed
up with a plate of prawns, taken from Dublin Bay, and then a separate
plate of Fresh Irish Lobster.
The truly-tantalising main dishes were perfectly complimented by some
Peppercorn/Béarnaise sauce, in addition to some ridiculously-rich
Truffle and Parmeson Chunky Chips, Charred Broccoli and Asparagus.
The reputation of the Surf and Turf on the Stone definitely lived up to
the hype: in the nicest way possible, it was a larger, more satisfying
version of the hammock ham; the epitome of what a mouth-watering steak
should be (although whatever you do, do NOT touch the stone!)
Special attention must also be paid especially to the lobster meat,
which was in the Goldilocks zone of not being too salty or plain, nor
was it too over or undercooked — it was just right.
For desserts, another trademark of Lawlor’s was served: Mrs Lawlor’s
Legendary Trifle, which according to the menu on the night, is 'a
classic, boozy sherry trifle made using Mrs Lawlor’s own recipe.'
Now, it should be noted that this reviewer has never been a massive fan
of trifle with hard fruit in it. However, the fruit here was soft and
delectable, and the alcohol contained within meshes perfectly with the
succulent cream and jelly.
Props must also go to the immaculate presentation of the desert; it is
indeed 'classic.'
Petit fours were also served alongside tea and coffee, and the
raspberry-chocolate treat was the clear-cut winner.
A special shout-out must go out to the Italian chef Gino, who
entertained guests with his powerful opera covers, and musician
Derek ‘Doc’ O’ Connor, who played numerous pop hits on saxophone, such
as Careless Whisper by George Michael (Derek also informed the Leader
that he has previously played with Imelda May, Wet Wet Wet and The
Boomtown Rats. He also spent 16 years playing music on The Late Late
Show).
[Collage_Maker-12-Jun-2023-08-13-PM-9725-1686597280555.jpg--two_kildare
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Two Kildare women awarded prestigious scholarships to US institutions
[375A3591-1686597691814.jpg--photos___special_olympics_naas_host_celebr
ation_for_grace_in_advance_of_berlin_games.jpg?1686597697973]
PHOTOS : Special Olympics Naas host celebration for Grace in advance of
Berlin games
Grace Kavanagh from Naas will represent Ireland in the upcoming Special
Olympic Games in Berlin where she will take part in the 50m and Mini
Javellin
Special Olympics Ireland will send a team of 73 athletes, supported by
a 36-strong coaching and management team to compete in 12 sports at
this prestigious event. This is the largest inclusive sporting event in
the world and Team Ireland has a strong legacy on the world stage.
GIVING BACK TO NAAS
Speaking to the Leinster Leader, just before the restaurant opened, Dee
Nixon said that the hotel’s owner, businessman Jack Tierney, wanted to
create Vi’s as a way to 'give back to the people of Naas', and thanked
him for this reason.
When asked about what the objective of staff at Vi’s was on the night,
she replied: "In addition to the restaurant, we want people to come
down and see what Lawlor’s has to offer, as well as to just be able to
have fun."
Executive Chef Ronny Wolf, who joined the team in March and has past
experience working in various Michelin star restaurants, said that he
is 'looking forward to keeping the Lawlor’s name at the forefront of
dining'.
Head Chef Simon O’Callaghan also told the Leader: "It is not very often
that a chef is given the opportunity to be part of a new restaurant
opening, so I’m taking this exciting opportunity to develop my style of
cooking towards a more customer-driven approach.
"I am keen to make a menu and dishes my customers want.
He added: "This is more relevant as customers are not just influenced
by the tastes, smells and textures they enjoy, but by the impact their
dining has on the community and environment."
CONCLUSION
The new, and truly impressive, menus are of a premium brasserie style
with a mix of fish, Irish beef, free range chicken and plant-based
dishes.
Vegetarians and vegans, along with dietary requirements, can be catered
to with ease with a wide variety of dishes that rival their meatier
alternatives in quality and quantity.
Vi’s restaurant is open for dining on Sunday from 1pm to 8pm and Friday
and Saturday from 6pm to 9pm.