💾 Archived View for mirrors.apple2.org.za › archive › apple.cabi.net › FAQs.and.INFO › VIDEO.MISC.IN… captured on 2023-05-24 at 23:56:40.
-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Newsgroups: comp.sys.apple2 Path: news.weeg.uiowa.edu!news.uiowa.edu!uunet!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!helios.physics.utoronto.ca!neufeld From: neufeld@helios.physics.utoronto.ca (Christopher Neufeld) Subject: Re: Bouncing screen... Message-ID: <CK4GKn.AoC@helios.physics.utoronto.ca> Sender: news@helios.physics.utoronto.ca (News Administrator) Organization: University of Toronto Physics/Astronomy/CITA References: <C011894125213.949@damage.cleve.fnet.org> Date: Mon, 24 Jan 1994 06:55:32 GMT Lines: 71 In article <C011894125213.949@damage.cleve.fnet.org>, <Damin@damage.cleve.fnet.org> wrote: > >>The screen on my IIgs monitor (standard Apple issue) has begun to bounce >>from top to bottom a bit shortly after I turn it on. If I thump the sides >>the problem usually goes away, but that doesn't seem like a good long-term >>solution. Any helpful advice will be appreciated. > >I have the exact same problem with my GS monitor as does Dr. Quack! The fix is >simple! We hit it. > >Is this "doom bearing down" on the monitor? > If it's what I think it is, then yes, it is doom bearing down. One day that monitor is going to die for good, and that day may be sooner than you would like. I'm including the fixup procedure here, courtesy of Ian Schmidt. I fixed my monitor successfully this way. Needless to say, don't do this if you don't know what you're doing. If there's any doubt, bring the monitor and this procedure to a person who has experience soldering. --- BEGIN INCLUDED FILE --- Opening up the RGB is a bit nasty, but not TOO bad. remove the 4 screws on the back: (the one on the bottom doesn't matter). ___________ | @ @ | | | |___________| | @ @ | ~~~~~~~~~~~ Next, carefully pull on the back a little, making sure to feed the power cord thru the hole in the case. After not too long, the case will be caught on 2 different connectors. The first one is from the power switch to the left side (facing from the back still) of the main board. Go ahead and unplug it (both connectors you need to remove are keyed so they only go one way :). The case will then pull off a bit more and you can (carefully) remove the cable from the brightness and contrast knobs to the board on the back of the CRT. Make sure not hit flip the 'service/normal' switch on the board next to the connector. After this, the case should come almost completely away (the power plug won't fit thru the hole, oh well). Now you can locate the flyback. It's the largish component on the right side (from the back) with a cable coming out of it leading to the CRT. Turn the monitor upside down so you can see the solder side of the board. The flyback has 10 connections arranged in a semicircle. Ground each one of the connections to the nearby chassis frame (I just used a screwdriver, if you'd like to avoid any scary snaps and pops, use like a 100k resistor). Go ahead and resolder each of the 10 connections, making sure to do a clean job (any solder bridges here could be fatal to your monitor). Once you finish, put the case back on in the opposite order, being careful not to try and force the 2 connectors the wrong way. You may want to try the monitor to make sure its all okay before retightening the screws. If you turn it on and the picture's just a horizontal line in the middle of the screen, it means you bumped the service/normal switch I mentioned before, and you should flip it back to 'normal' :) After you do this, your RGB should be good-as-new. Ian Schmidt irsman@iastate.edu --- END INCLUDED FILE --- -- Christopher Neufeld....Just a graduate student neufeld@physics.utoronto.ca "Don't edit reality for | "The nerd projection operator recovers most of his the sake of simplicity" | amplitude." Insult, probably self-referential. | -rw-rw-rw- : the file permission of the beast