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                           Re: Need Joystick for GS
                                       
   From: rubywand@aol.com (RUBYWAND)
   Reply to: RUBYWAND
   Date: 5 Aug 1996 05:00:07 -0400
   Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
   Newsgroups:
          comp.sys.apple2
   Followup to: newsgroup(s)
   References:
          <3202CF83.130A@inlink.com>

In article <3202CF83.130A@inlink.com>, "Doug S." <dougs@inlink.com>
writes:

>
>Can anyone supply me with the pinout info for converting a PC joystick to
>Apple II?  I have a spare PC stick, and the Apples are hard to find
locally.
>
>

     Sure. The stuff below is condensed from an article in the Spring
issue
of II Alive:

         To PC Stick                             To Apple II
(15-pin female connector)             (9-pin male connector)

         [1] [4] and [5] --------------------------- [2]  +5V
         [2] --------------------------------------------[7]  Button 0
         [3] --------------------------------------------[5]  X-axis
         [6] --------------------------------------------[8]  Y-axis
         [7] --------------------------------------------[1]  Button 1
                                                          [3]  Ground

     On the 9-pin Apple II side ...
        add 680 Ohm resistor between [7] & [3]
        add 680 Ohm resistor between [1] & [3]
        add .01 uF cap between [5] & [3]*
        optional: add 50K-100K trim pot in series with the cap
        add .01 uF cap between [8] & [3]*
        optional: add 50K-100K trim pot in series with the cap


 sticks.The C values are approximate. For standard 100K Ohm
 PC sticks, .01 uF pretty well guarantees you will be able to
 cover the full Apple II X and Y range (0-255).

 Values of .01 uf  (X-axis)  and .005 uF (Y-axis)  worked
 well on the PC "FlightStick" when plugged into our Apple II+.

     Most likely, you will find that the a stick tops-out too early
in the X-max and/or Y-max direction. For best control precision,
what you want is for extreme values to occur near the extremes
of stick movement:

X (horizontal)  Left= 0   Right= 255
Y (vertical)      Up= 0    Down= 255

This way, you have lots of active swing which makes graphics
work and playing most games much easier.

     For adjusting, use a program which continuously reads and
displays X and Y stick values. The program below does this and
displays "B0" when Button 0 is pushed and "B1" when Button 1
is pushed. Do a CTRL-C to exit.

20 PRINT "X= "; PDL(0); TAB(15); "Y= ";PDL(1); TAB(30);
30 IF PEEK(49249)>127 THEN PRINT "  B0";
40 IF PEEK(49250)>127 THEN PRINT "  B1";
50 PRINT: GOTO 20


     Experiment with capacitance values between .002 uF
and .01 uF to get the best 'spread'.  For easier fine-tuning,
add the 50K-100K trim pots in series with each capacitor.

     The converter I built fit inside heat-shrink tubing. Putting it
in a small plastic box may be better. You can mount the
trim pots (and/or switches with fixed "trim resistors") and
select between settings for a 'Fast', short swing, 'hot' Game
Stick and a 'Normal', full swing, 'cool' Game/Graphics Stick.
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From: rubywand@aol.com (RUBYWAND)
Newsgroups: comp.sys.apple2
Subject: Re: Kraft Joystick Question!
Date: 6 Sep 1996 11:28:10 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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References: <322ee39d.323258278@news.concentric.net>
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In article <322ee39d.323258278@news.concentric.net>, wernst@cris.com
(Warren "Llama" Ernst) writes:

>.... What did you do about the buttons? I built one of these years ago,
but
>I found that the Apple expects the buttons to be "push to close
>connection" and the PC expects teh buttons to be "push to open
>connection" (or vice versa, its been a while). Someone suggested an
>inverter, but I just went out and bought the correct modem.
>
>Won't this converter still give you button problems?


         To PC Stick                             To Apple II
(15-pin female connector)             (9-pin male connector)

         [1] [4] and [5] --------------------------- [2]  +5V
         [2] --------------------------------------------[7]  Button 0
         [3] --------------------------------------------[5]  X-axis
         [6] --------------------------------------------[8]  Y-axis
         [7] --------------------------------------------[1]  Button 1
                                                          [3]  Ground

     On the 9-pin Apple II side ...
        add 680 Ohm resistor between [7] & [3]
        add 680 Ohm resistor between [1] & [3]
        add .01 uF cap between [5] & [3]*
        optional: add 50K-100K trim pot in series with the cap
        add .01 uF cap between [8] & [3]*
        optional: add 50K-100K trim pot in series with the cap


     The 680 Ohm resistors take care of the problem. Each resistor is
running from a Button to GND. The other end of each Button goes to +5V.

+5V
|
|
X Button Switch
|
|________ 'Button output to Apple'
|
Z
Z 680 Ohm resistor
Z
|
GND


    680 Ohms holds a button's output to a logical 0. Pressing a button
sends +5V (logical 1)  to the output.




Rubywand