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Title: Review: NO LOGO
Author: Workers Solidarity Movement
Date: 2001
Language: en
Topics: book review, Naomi Klein, Red & Black Revolution
Source: Retrieved on 8th August 2021 from http://struggle.ws/rbr/rbr5/logo.html
Notes: This article was originally published in Red & Black Revolution No. 5.

Workers Solidarity Movement

Review: NO LOGO

The publication of No Logo was perfectly, if unintentionally, timed.

Just as the N30 demonstrations in Seattle made headlines around the

world, No Logo arrived to explain some of the reasons for that movement.

So although Naomi Klein has made it clear that she is not an ‘official’

spokesperson for the movement — that this movement has no official

spokespeople — at a time when observers (and even some participants)

wondered what was going on, No Logo provided some answers.

Klein starts by discussing how advertising and general business

practices have changed in the last twenty years. Essentially, companies

decided that they were no longer in the business of selling products,

because products are messy, they can be copied, or even improved on. But

if you are selling an idea, an experience, a set of associations, it’s

much harder for another company to compete with you. Sportswear is a

good example of a market where price, and even quality, isn’t that

important — people choose between Nike and Adidas because of their ad

campaigns, not their shoes.

At the same time as companies started this emphasis on brands rather

than products, they started moving out of manufacturing. Owning a

factory was thought to tie a company down, because then you have the

constant expense of wages, as well as the money tied up in buildings and

equipment. Manufacturing still has to take place of course, if not by

you then by your suppliers, but then dealing with workers can be someone

else’s problem, and you can concentrate on building your brand.

Now a lot of the actual manufacturing of clothes, computer parts, and

other industries has moved to the developing world. Unlike the west,

where workers expect a decent wage, and are organised enough to demand

it, in the free trade zones in China, Indonesia, the Philippines,

Mexico, and many more countries, factories can be run with little

outside interference. The description of these free trade zones, where

workers sometimes work up to 100 hours a week, in appalling conditions,

is the most interesting and useful part of the book. Workers there are

barely paid enough to live on, and often work compulsory (and sometimes

unpaid) overtime. Most of the workers in these factories are young

women, migrants from other provinces, because they are thought to be

easier to dominate, and less capable of organising themselves. Even when

workers start to unionise, they can be summarily fired, and large-scale

agitation faces the constant threat that the factory will be simply

packed up and moved to another zone. Solidarity with these workers, and

outrage at the conditions they live in, was one of the driving forces of

the Seattle and Prague protests.

Where No Logo fails is in its attempt to tie these different themes

together. Klein tries to argue that companies have to spend more money

on ‘branding’, and this is why production is moving to sweatshops.

Companies can’t afford to have factories and a brand, so they ditched

the factories. But its not just the big brands that are made in

sweatshops. Nike runners may be made in Indonesia, but so are the

own-brand runners in your supermarket. Gap shirts are made in

sweatshops, but so are the shirts in the department store. The

sweatshops aren’t a result of branding, they’re a product of the desire

of companies to cut costs. Some companies will then keep their prices

low, while others will spend a lot on advertising, but hope to make even

more by charging higher prices.

The sweatshops are, after all, nothing new. They existed in the west,

alongside hellish factories, and unsafe mines about a century ago[1],

and it wasn’t because the Victorians had just discovered advertising.

Bosses always try to keep their costs down, because decent pay and safe

working conditions just eat into their profits. Conditions didn’t

improve because the rich had a change of heart — every pay rise, every

reduction in the working week, every safety standard had to be fought

for. The same struggle is going on around the world today, and it’s a

fight against capitalism, not logos.

This is why No Logo is ultimately disappointing. When it tries to be

constructive, and suggest actions we can take, too much time is spent

talking about ‘subverting’ advertisements, or painting over billboards.

Ads may be annoying, and this kind of thing can be fun, but it doesn’t

really accomplish anything. Consumer boycotts are explored, even while

their weaknesses are admitted. [2] So there’s less room to explore ways

that we in the west can help sweatshop workers get organised, and how we

can help their struggles, which should be the objectives of any

campaign. No Logo is still an interesting book, and possibly a good

introduction for those who don’t know much about the issues involved.

But as a political analysis, or a guide to action, it’s severely limited

by Klein’s unwillingness to admit that the problem is not advertising,

but capitalism.

[1] There are some direct parallels — in China, textile workers are

frequently locked into their factories so the women will have no choice

but to work, and ‘outside agitators’ can’t get in. Because textiles are

highly flammable, there have been several fires at these factories, and

in some cases the factory has burned down with the workers still trapped

inside. Exactly the same thing — doors locked in a textile factory, for

the same reasons, with the same tragic results — happened in New York in

the early 20^(th) century, most notably the infamous Triangle Shirtwaist

factory fire.

[2] Boycotts may be effective when they have a single clear target, like

Shell’s actions in Nigeria, but they may just prompt a whitewash

campaign, and a series of apologies from the companies concerned, until

they think the spotlight has moved on to someone else. Since Nike has

been a focus of the anti-sweatshop campaign, Reebok can pose as the

ethical alternative, even though their work practices are exactly the

same.