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{
"title": "Toyota IFS Driveshaft Clearance",
"date": "2015-12-26"
}
My [95 SAS pickup](..) has the original IFS driveshaft, extended by a local shop. But this was done
13 years ago, and the shop didn't bother to increase the angle, and I was too naïve to require it.
The IFS shaft droops 27°, but my suspension requires 35°.
Here seems to be the canonical reference for [Driveshaft CV Modification for Increased
Angle](http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/cvmod/).
# Parts
In for a penny, in for a pound. Here's the parts list:
- MOOG 614 (CV ball kit)
- GMB 215-2500 (x2, for the double cardan)
- GMB 215-0021 (font U-joint)
# CV Disassembly
I was not able to get all the joints pounded out with a sledge hammer. So I picked up a 12 ton
press from HF for cheap.
I tried to pull the CV ball by prying it out with a flathead screwdriver, but that only rewarded me
with a bent screwdriver and a scored casting. Not good. I ended up pulling it by:
1. Slide a nut into the ball's bore
2. Spin the ball 180°, so that the nut is captured in the bore.
3. Place a large axle nut socket over the casting, with a large washer if needed to spread the load
over the casting.
4. Thread a long bolt into the nut.
5. Crank, and "pop".
I used a Dremel to cut a slot in the brass race, so that a tap with a screwdriver allowed me to
collapse and extract it. Be careful not to score the steel casting with the Dremel.
# Grinding
The "canonical reference" loses the dust shield, which doesn't seem ideal for road use. Admittedly,
a lifted vehicle sitting on level ground probably has a gap in the dust shield anyway. (TODO: how
does Little Red sit on level ground with 4" springs?) But any dust shield keeps out more dust than
no dust shield.
A little more grinding on the casting side might let me keep the dust shield. The casting side is
still thick, and the largest forces would be against the brass race, which is pressed in deep, where
I don't have to grind.
Here is the so-called "canonical" picture, versus my own clearancing job:
... TODO ...
## Grinding the seal bore
It appears that the local shop that extended the shaft messed up while pressing in a new race for
the CV ball. The outermost edge of the bore is caved in slightly, so that the diameter is too small
to accept the new seal. I suppose the shop started out with too large of a driver.
I am running a Dremel around to reshape the bore.
# Re-assembling
... TODO ...
# Results
... TODO ...