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Go-getters in the ghettos: The bright side of France's migrant suburbs

2016-08-24 06:08:19

By Henri Astier BBC News, France

Like many French rap stars, Mokobe has drawn inspiration from growing up in one

of the bleak "banlieues" (suburbs) where immigrants make up a large part of the

population.

One of 15 children of West African parents, he remembers bunk beds gradually

filling up the bedroom until the window could no longer be opened. New arrivals

then had to sleep in the living room of their flat on the south-eastern fringes

of Paris.

"We used to tell each other stories at night," the 40-year-old recalls. "I've

always liked living in a housing estate because we're on top of each other.

Mixing and sharing are part of life there."

Mokobe, who has filled venues from Chad to California over a two-decade career,

believes his banlieue roots have given him an edge as a performer.

This picture belies the image of the ethnic hinterland of French cities as

ghettos. The country often stands accused of failing to integrate migrants,

leaving them to fester in crime-ridden poverty.

Up from the banlieue

Marginalisation is often blamed for regular waves of rioting and for the rise

of home-grown jihadists, such as those who struck Paris last year and Nice in

July.

After the Charlie Hebdo attacks in January 2015, the French prime minister

denounced "geographic, social and ethnic apartheid".

But, wretched as they undoubtedly are, the banlieues are in reality hotbeds of

upward mobility.

Mokobe sees bright side of suburbs

Entertainers like Mokobe and sports stars are not the only people to arise from

the banlieue and thrive. Most of the rapper's childhood friends, he says, have

moved on to have successful careers.

Research shows that far from being ghettos, "Sensitive Urban Zones" in official

parlance (ZUS) - are the parts of France that have the highest population

turnover.

Two-thirds of those who lived there 10 years ago have left and been replaced by

newcomers, typically other migrant families, says Christophe Guilluy, a

geographer.

It is true that the ZUS score poorly on every economic indicator. Unemployment

there is two to three times the national figure. Crime is rampant.

But this disturbing social picture is not inconsistent with individual success.

"The jobless banlieue-dwellers of today are not the same as yesterday's and

will not be the same tomorrow," as Mr Guilluy puts it.

For most residents, ZUS are transit zones. If they were traps, they would be

full of pensioners. "Outside the tower blocks you would see men playing cards,

just like in villages," Mr Guilluy says.

But what first strikes you in any banlieue is how young people are.

Those people who rioted in 1990 are now pushing 50 and have moved on. "It is

not them who throw stones at police cars today," Mr Guilluy says. "This shows

the very real economic integration of people who have left the banlieues."

Gritty

Moussa Camara has worked to channel the youthful energy of immigrant areas for

almost a decade.

In 2007, as a budding entrepreneur from a rough estate in Cergy-Pontoise, west

of Paris, he decided to take action after police shot and wounded a local boy

while chasing joy riders. Memories of nationwide banlieue riots 18 months

earlier were still fresh and tensions high.

Mr Camara convinced people that lobbying was the most effective form of protest

and got them involved in local politics. He later connected jobless youths with

local firms. Now - with support from the main employers' federation - the

30-year-old helps them start their own companies.

The entrepreneurial spirit, he says, is hungrier in the banlieues than anywhere

else.

"When you live in a neighbourhood with so many social problems and your only to

chance is to start a business, the grit and determination are not the same," he

says. "Here, when you give kids a chance, they give it all they've got."

"When people say to me you come from Aubervilliers, I say yes I do but then I

went to London and then I came back from London I integrated a business school.

I'm proud and I always make sure people know I come from Aubervilliers."

Sharron Malikon, 34, entrepreneur, born and raised in Aubervilliers, north-west

of Paris

The women of the banlieue

Having a point to prove is a big motivation for many migrants' children. Sandra

Meknassi, whose grandparents came from North Africa, grew up on a council

estate in Goussainville, north of Paris.

At school her form tutor once told her, in front of the whole class, that she

should forget about studying law.

The 25-year-old now works as a junior lawyer for a multinational insurance

group. "My dream," she asserts, "is to return to my old school and say to that

form tutor: 'So there.'"

Banlieue schools, despite their dire image, by and large fulfil their role. The

proportion of those who take the baccalaureat and succeed is only 5-8% lower in

ZUS than elsewhere.

Iannis Roder, who has taught history to mostly immigrant children in the same

school near Paris for 18 years, says that receiving effusive letters of thanks

from former pupils who are now in higher education is what keeps him going. "It

brings tears to my eyes," he says.

Education, of course, is not an automatic ticket out of the banlieue. For every

tenacious Sandra, many will fail to reach their potential.

Some remain in the banlieue through sheer bad luck. Cinthia Piquionne and her

family are stuck in the estate Sandra left behind. At 46, she is too old to get

a mortgage.

"I would have liked to have a house with a garden," she sighs. "Sometimes you

have to give up on your dreams."

Discrimination remains a disturbing fact. Sociologist Emmanuelle Santelli has

studied an entire cohort of schoolchildren from a ZUS near Lyon, and followed

them into adulthood.

By their late 20s, half had moved out of the area. Three-quarters were in work,

many in stable employment, but the majority had insecure jobs that did not

match their skills. Crucially, those of foreign origin fared worse than those

with French roots.

There is social mobility in the sense that migrants' children do better than

their parents, Ms Santelli says.

"But they must not be compared just with their parents or grandparents," she

adds. "They must above all be compared with other French people of the same

age." In that respect they are at a disadvantage.

Some believe that marginalisation is partly self-inflicted. Boubekeur Bekri, a

moderate imam from a part of Nice bristling with satellite dishes and Islamic

fervour, believes Muslim culture itself is holding people back.

Banlieue students are given plenty of opportunities and many grab them, he

says, but the prevalent mindset does not encourage them to do so.

"High-achievers here are made to feel they are letting the side down," says Mr

Bekri, who is also a teacher. "Top students have a difficult time. Their

success is seen as an insult to the neighbours."

Quiet rise

Whatever the reason, banlieue immigrants are under-represented among the better

off. But, for Christophe Guilluy, this does not mean that social integration is

failing.

French suburbs, he says, are going through the same process that has seen

paupers flock to slums in hope of a better life all over the world.

Rags-to-riches stories are rare. The norm is what Mr Guilluy calls "invisible

social ascent" - families gradually, quietly improving their lot.

One sign of this unsung development is the emergence all over France of

multi-ethnic residential areas accommodating a rising class of immigrant

households.

One of these, Maurepas, was once a sleepy town south-west of Paris. Over the

past two decades it has seen an influx of families escaping the dismal estates

of Trappes just up the road.

Marie Monroy, who teaches literature at a school in Maurepas, experiences

French-style integration in her classroom every day.

The third of her pupils who have foreign roots perform no differently from the

others, she says: "Some children are unwilling or unable to learn, but it has

absolutely nothing to do with their origins."

If French banlieues were on trial for breeding only despair and jihadism,

Abdelghani Merah would be a star witness for the defence.

He is the brother of Mohamed Merah, France's first home-grown jihadist.

They grew up in the same sink estates in Toulouse but followed very different

paths. Mohamed nurtured a grudge against France and vowed to fight "infidels";

he killed Jewish schoolchildren and soldiers during a shooting spree in 2012.

Abdelghani married a woman of Jewish origin. The 39-year-old now goes around

housing estates in the Nice area to extol "beautiful" French values. The

anti-immigration National Front, he says, "is not what France is about".

Mohamed died childless in a hail of police bullets at the age of 23.

Abdelghani has a 20-year-old son who is attending a top business school.