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          --Cloaked Warrior--
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          --P r e s e n t s--
         Improving your Rocket
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Cloaked Warrior '86!

This text file was written on an Apple ][e with 192K and in 80-col. August 8,
1986 9:00 PM (pacific).  Be sure that you have read the file 'How to Make Sugar
Rockets' before reading this file.  This file is actually Part II of that
File....

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ENHANCEMENTS
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Time Delays & Special Effects
-----------------------------
In order to provide room for time delays (et cetera), you will need a longer
rocket casing.  So go out to the store again and buy wider brown packaging tape
(3 in. instead of 2 in.).  But the thing is that this type of tape is not sold
in most stores, so go look in a phone book for large paper suppliers that sell
packaging supplies.  To make a rocket casing with a time delay, you just have
to follow the instructions in Part I (How to Make Sugar Rockets) except (there
are some changes):

1>  Use the 3 in. packaging tape to make a 3 in. casing.
2>  When loading the propellant, instead of stopping at the top of the mandrel,
    continue working, using the flat, undrilled end of the tamp, and pack an
    extra 1/2 inch of propellant in on top of the mandrel.
3>  You will need to form a tiny hole through the epoxy glue plug, to do this,
    (after packing the propellant) stick a large sewing needle into the
    propellant right at the edge of the rocket casing, you then press it into
    the delay powder to a depth of 1/8 of an inch, now firmly pack in your wad
    of tissue paper or paper towel and then pour in the front plug of epoxy.
4>  After the glue dries and hardens, use a pair of small pliers to twist and
    pull the needle out of the epoxy, leaving a tiny pin-hole through the plug.

Now you're all ready to go...


Making a 'Pop' sound and smoke
------------------------------
To make a 'pop' and some smoke at the end of the rocket's flight is easy.
All you have to do is fill up the pin hole with black powder or Pyrodex powder
and add another 1/19 of a gram (1/2 as much as you used to prime the rocket).
Press in a another wad of tissue paper (or towel) and pour another epoxy cap on
top of that.  When the falme inside the rocket reaches the front of the time
delay powder, it will flash through the pin hole and ignite the powder.  This
is how to make a fire cracker like 'pop' and a puff of smoke at the end of its
flight.  Making the flames a certain color is also desirable.  Well, it is very
simple.  If you want a green flame when it is lauched, this is what you do:

Go out and buy some Copper Sulfate (powder).  Then you glue the powder on
to the rocket casing(s) at the ends all the way around.  Use Elmer's glue to
do this.  And that's it!  When the rocket is ignited, it will be launched as
the Copper Sulfate burns (Elmer's glue melts), causing green flames.  You may
use other chemicals to produce different colors.  But be sure to use the slow
lift-off option that was explained in the Part I (so that you can observe it).


Making a Nose Cone for better Performance
-----------------------------------------
To make your rocket(s) fly better, you will need to make a nose cone.  Make
something like a witch's hat out of paper and masking tape and glue it onto
the nose of each rocket.  This should not require any assistance (I assume
that you must know how to make a nose cone.  It shaped like a funnel.)


Using the Time Delay to Pop a Parachute
---------------------------------------
To pop a parachute, fill the pin hole with black powder and add a very SMALL
amount of powder on top of this.  Then cut a disk of stiff paper from a
3 x 5 inch file card about 3/8 of an inch in diameter, and using on end of
your powder tamp, press the paper disk into the nose of the rocket on top of
the loose powder (be sure that you have not made a nose cone and have glued
it onto the rocket).


Second Stage Rocket
-------------------
If you want to have your rocket ignite a second stage, then use a single edged
razor blade to cut the excess length of the cassing off right at front of the
front plug.  Then fill the pin-hole with loose powder and cap the FRONT of the
rocket with the powder ppaste just as you did to the back end when priming it
for firing.  Make sure the front of the rocket is marked, once te ends are
capped, you won't be able to tell which end is which.  When igniting a second
stage, place the priming cap of the second stage engine in contact with the
front end cap or first stage motor.  When the flame in the first stage motor
reaches the front of the time delay powder, it will ignite the cap at its
front, which in turn will light the priming cap of the second stage engine.


Making a Second Stage Stick Rocket
----------------------------------
When you make a second stage stick rocket, you will need a longer stick to
balance the extra weight and you will have to connect the two stages so that
the second stage can slide easily away from the first after the first is spent.
Wrap a single layer of paper tape around the fron of the booster engine (first
stage motor), so that the tape is glued to the front of the booster but sticks
1/2 an inch out in from of the finished, capped engine.  After the glue dries,
you can slide the tail of the second stage into this paper sleeve off the first
until the priming cap of the second stage mmotor touches the front cap of the
first.  Glue or tape the longer guide stick to the second stage engine, leaving
the first stage engine and its paper sleeve free. (Note:  This two stage stick
rocket is 2 rocket casings connected to a longer stick. This is an easier
explaination.)


Substitutions & Misc.
---------------------
You can mix white baking flour with epoxy glue if you cannot get the water
putty.  Instead of getting flowers of sulfur, you can get dusting sulfur at
a nursery or fertilizer supplier.  Dusting sulfur will result in a better
rocket.  Never put the 3 chemicals (sulfur, saltpetre, and sugar) in a blender,
if you do, you'll get a real big kick out of it...

Well, good luck and look out for more files in the future...
Cloaked Warrior '86...