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Kerala's love affair with alcohol

2010-03-12 08:20:59

People in the southern state of Kerala are the heaviest drinkers in India, and

sales of alcohol are rising fast. The BBC's Soutik Biswas examines why.

Jacob Varghese says he began drinking when he was nine years old, sipping on

his father's unfinished whisky and brandy in glass tumblers.

It's a terrifying story of a descent into alcoholism for this 40-year-old

health inspector.

At school, he consumed cheap local liquor. He lived in a haze of alcohol

through his teens and dropped out of college.

He lost a job, cut his wrists twice trying to end his life, landed up in

rehabilitation centres and at the age of 32, was reduced to begging on the

streets to fund his alcohol habit.

'Lost respect'

"Drinking is a disease in Kerala," he says, his voice dropping to a whisper.

"I lost my kin, my respect and all my money chasing alcohol. Everyone

encourages you to have it - your friends, the government."

This was before he was dragged to the local Alcoholics Anonymous chapter by

friends. This, after 17 years of drinking had reduced him to a mental wreck and

a pauper.

If you have willpower... booze will never harm you

NL Balakrishnan Forum For Better Spirit

Mr Varghese has been sober for the past eight years, and is now married with

children and holds down a job.

"Many of my friends have not been as lucky. So many of my drinking buddies

died, and others landed up in mental asylums," he says.

Kerala is India's tippler country. It has the highest per capita consumption -

over eight litres (1.76 gallons) per person a year - in the nation, overtaking

traditionally hard-drinking states like Punjab and Haryana.

Also, in a strange twist of taste, rum and brandy are the preferred drink in

Kerala in a country where whisky outsells every other liquor.

Alcohol helps in giving Kerala's economy a good high - shockingly, more than

40% of revenues for its annual budget come from booze.

A state-run monopoly sells alcohol - the curiously named Kerala State Beverages

Corporation (KSBC) - runs 337 liquor shops, open seven days a week. Each shop

caters on average to an astonishing 80,000 clients.

This fiscal year the KSBC is expected to sell $1bn ( 0.6bn) of alcohol in a

state of 30 million people, up from $12m when it took over the retail business

in 1984.

Similarly, revenues from alcohol to the state's exchequer have registered a

whopping 100% rise over the past four years.

The monopoly is so professionally run that consumers can even send text

messages from their phones to a helpline number to record their grievances.

"If we delay opening any of our shops by even five minutes, clients send us

text messages saying that they are waiting to buy liquor," says KSBC chief N

Shankar Reddy.

That's not all. There are some 600 privately run bars in the state and more

than 5,000 shops selling toddy (palm wine), the local brew. There is also a

thriving black market liquor trade.

Spirited defence

Despite a growing number of people who demand a ban on the sale and consumption

of alcohol, there is an equally spirited group of hard-core drinkers who lobby

for cheaper and more widely distributed liquor.

One of them is well-known actor NL Balakrishnan, a veteran of more than 200

films, who launched a lobby group called Forum for Better Spirit in 1983.

The forum's manifesto asks the government to provide liquor through the

state-subsided public distribution system, boost toddy production, slash prices

for elderly drinkers and supply free alcohol to drinkers over 90.

The jolly and convivial Mr Balakrishnan, 67, says his father "initiated" him

into drinking when he was four.

"We used to go to the cinema together. After the show was over, he would take

me to a toddy shop where he would drink. He would give me a few spoons of toddy

too. It was an amazing experience," he says.

He says when his father died at the ripe age of 98 after a "lifetime of heavy

drinking", he wet his lips with liquor and not holy water, as is the Hindu

custom.

Mr Balakrishnan says that on his average day out with his drinking buddies he

downs 22 shots of his favourite brandy - and "never has any problems".

"If you have willpower and have enough food to go with your drink, booze will

never harm you," he says cheerily.

But drinking is killing a lot of people and exacting a heavy social cost, say

doctors and activists.

Rising numbers of divorces in Kerala are linked to alcohol abuse. Johnson J

Edayaranmula, who runs the Alcohol and Drug Information Centre, a leading NGO,

puts the figure as high as 80%.

And the majority of road deaths in the state - nearly 4,000 during 2008-2009 -

are due to drink driving, he says. Hospitals and rehab centres are packed with

patients suffering from alcohol-related diseases.

'Societal problem'

The situation is so grim that, ironically, the KSBC itself is planning to open

a hospital specialising in treating alcohol-related problems. It also runs a

campaign to combat alcohol abuse.

But why do people in Kerala drink so heavily?

Jacob Varghese says it is a "societal problem" - what he possibly means is that

drinking liquor is almost a social rite of passage, taken very seriously.

But he elaborates other, perhaps more important, reasons - high unemployment,

easy access to alcohol and the fact that drinking has become a "part of

upwardly mobile living".

Most activists believe that "prohibition" is not the solution - it just drives

buyers and sellers underground.

"The solution possibly lies in introducing drinks with mild alcohol content.

And since drinking is also a cultural problem, people need to be made aware of

the havoc that alcohol can wreak on their lives," says Mr Edayaranmula.

Until then alcohol will continue to dominate the lives of many of Kerala's

people - and boost its exchequer's finances.