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N E W S L E T T E R
-= Issue 12 =-
Released October 31, 1994
Table of Contents
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
01 .................... Introduction
02 ........... Pocket dialer red box
03 ................ Hallmark red box
04 ........... Scratch-built red box
05 ...... Other construction methods
06 .................. QBasic red box
07 ......... QUARTER.VOC (uuencoded)
08 ............. BOX.EXE (uuencoded)
09 .................. The Grand Scan
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411 is:
Firebug -/- Hedonist -/- Substance -/- Leper Messiah -/- Pliny the Elder
Gambit -/- White Boy -/- Somebody -/- Roadruner -/- Mercenary
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Introduction
~~~~~~~~~~~~
As the saying goes, there's more than one way to skin a cat, and the same
applies to many things, including the red box. Throughout the years, we've
seen countless methods of generating thoses tones, but the output is always
the same. And the strange thing is that even though red boxes have been
around for decades, Bell still hasn't really done anything about it, and as
far as I know, it still works almost everywhere. In honor of Bell's
stupidity, we've decided to devote this entire issue of the 411 newsletter to
the red box, it's use, and various ways of making it.
First off, I should probably explain exactly what a red box is for those
who aren't familiar with it's function. To put it simply, a red box generates
the tones that you hear when you deposit a coin into a payphone. More
specificly, these tones are 1700 hz and 2200 hz sounded together. The timings
are as such: on 66 ms for a nickel, on 66 ms, off 66 ms on 66 ms for a dime,
and on for 33 ms 5 times with a 33 ms space between them for a quarter. Since
you aren't actually paying for the call, exact change isn't really needed, so
most people simply concern themselves with the quarter tone. These tones are
usually generated by a small handheld device or recorded onto something
portable and then used at a Bell payphone. This is important, because it will
only work on a payphone that is owned by the phone company. Other payphones,
called COCOTs (customer owned coin operated telephones) don't handle billing
this way so it will not work.
The easiest way to use a red box is to dial the number you are calling and
wait for the automated recording to come on and tell you how much money to
insert. You may or may not need to insert a nickel, depending on the phone,
then simply play the tones until the proper amount of money has been inserted.
The purpose of the nickel is because the phone may not know how much money was
physically inserted, but it does know whether or not ANY money was inserted.
It may work without doing so in many cases though. Other methods include
calling the operator and having him/her connect the call for you telling them
that it won't take your money. Then play the tones in a quiet area when the
operator tells you to insert the money. Also, try playing the tones first,
before dialing. The problems with theses two methods though, is that with the
first one, you are dealing with a live person who may catch on if the volume
of your red box isn't quite right, or if there is any noise in the background.
The second method won't usually work because if you'll notice, when a coin is
put in hear, the dialtone disappears while the tone is being played, something
you can't simulate with a red box.
That about sums it up... As you read through this issue, keep in mind
that each method has it's advantages and drawbacks, and if you choose to build
one, you should build the one best suited to your spending limitations and
skill level. If you've never soldered before in your life, you're better off
recording the tones onto a tape and playing them through your walkman, while
those with no sound card or even a computer will need to build something that
can generate the tones rather than just play back.
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Pocket Dialer Red Box
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
This first construction method for building a red box is pretty simple and
convenient to carry and use. It's only drawback is it's cost, which will be
in the area of $30. It's not too bad, but unless you frequently call
international from a payphone, it doesn't exactly pay for itself. It's a nice
little package though. Anyway, here are the plans...
Parts: Radio Shack 33 memory autodialer (43-141 or 43-146)
6.5536 mhz crystal (also available from Radio Shack)
To convert the autodialer into a red box you must first remove the six
screws in the back and open it up so that you can work on the circuitboard.
Everything is surface mounted so soldering will be a little more difficult
here, but isn't really a problem, there are just no holes to push the leads
through. First you need to remove the six screws on the back and open it up
so that you can work on the circuit board. In order to replace the existing
crystal, it must first be removed. In case you can't find it, it's the small
metal cylinder the size of your pinky nail. Once removed, solder in the
6.5536 mhz crystal in its place. In order for it to fit, you will probably
have to clip the leads shorter and position the crystal over the black ceramic
mound. Make sure the case can close all the way, otherwise the contacts of
the switches won't touch and it won't work at all. Close the case and replace
the screws, and program into one of the priority numbers ***** (5 asterisks).
This is a quarter. You should know that the tones and timings aren't exact,
but they're close enough to fool any operator, and most ACTS systems.
An enhancement you might want to add is some sort of switch so that you
can switch between the two crystals. That way, your red box will double as an
autodialer for use on COCOTs or whatever else you like. On the old model
(43-141), there was a little more room inside, but on the newer model
(43-146), things are pretty tight, so if you figure anything out there, please
let me know...
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Hallmark Red Box
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Hallmark makes a greeting card that can digitally sample up to 10 seconds
of your voice with decent quality sound reproduction. This is convenient
because that frequency range is the exact same range that can be carried over
the phone lines, making the card ideal for any device involving the
reproduction of tones, including those of the quarter. This method of
constructing a red box is advantageous because of it's price (around $10),
size, and versitality. An added plus is that the sample is stored in an
EEPROM meaning that when you disconnect the batteries, it still keeps its
memory. The only real drawback to this design is that the circuit doesn't
actually generate the quarter tone, it simply reproduces the tone you
originally supplied it with, so you need access to something that can generate
the tones in the first place, most likely a computer.
Parts: Hallmark voice-recordable greeting card ($8.00)
1/8" mic jack
SPST switch (optional)
The beauty of this design is that Hallmark pretty much built the thing for
you already. Make sure to read the instruction sheet included with it so that
you know how to use it, and all that's really left to do is record the tone.
I won't give the colors of the wires in the instructions because they vary
from card to card.
First, clip the wires going to the piezoelectric microphone element and
attach a 1/8" mic jack to them. Polarity isn't real important here. You can
solder it on if you like, but unless you plan on using the circuit for other
things as well, you won't need the jack after you get a good recording of the
tone and soldering it on isn't really necessary. Now play the included
QUARTER.VOC or where ever else you are getting the tones from into the mic
jack and record them. Play them back to make sure that the tones are loud and
clear and not distorted. If they are distorted, you need to play the tones
quieter while recording. Also, if thry are too quiet, turn it up a little.
You now have a functioning red box in less than 10 minutes. But chances are,
you don't want to carry around a greeting card whenever you want to make a
call, so I'd definitely recommend the following enhancements.
The first thing you probably want to do is cut down on size. There are an
infinite number of possibilities of how to go about doing this, but here are a
few that work well. The easiest way is to remove the cardboard and cut the
plastic frame, leaving only the parts necessary for operation. These include
the circuit board, the battery case, and the speaker. Cut the wires going to
the flimsy switch and solder on a SPST switch here. This is basically your
on/off switch. I would recommend keeping the battery holder and its "drawer"
simply because if you don't, changing the batteries will be harder and you'll
have to do some more soldering that isn't really necessary. Also, if you
really want to save space, you might want to try using a small piezoelectric
speaker rather than the one supplied, although the volume is drastically
reduced and may be too low to even use. For a case, you can use just about
anything. Radio Shack has a wide variety of plastic project cases that work
well, or you can use just about anything else it will fit in, such as a tape
case or zippo lighter (real tight squeeze there!). Don't forget to drill a
bunch of holes where the speaker is and one for the switch. It's probably
easiest to just glue everything in place, but don't glue the case shut
permanantly or else you won't be able to change the batteries when they die.
Make sure that you don't leave the switch in the on position when you're not
using it. Even though no sound is coming out, it is still using up the
batteries, which unfortunately, aren't cheap...
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Scratch-Built Red Box
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
The following plans were taken from Phrack issue #33. In my opinion, the
amount of work it takes to make a red box this way is restrictive in that you
need to make the circuitboard yourself and a lot of work is involved. However,
if you've got the equipment, time, and expertise required to build it this way,
go right ahead. It's definitely cost effective (parts are real cheap), and
it will work quite well. Pardon the repetition in the file, but I would
rather leave it unchanged from it's original format.
------------------------- BEGIN INCLUDED FILE --------------------------------
==Phrack Inc.==
Volume Three, Issue Thirty-Three, File 9 of 13
/////////////////////\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\
|| ||
|| A Real Functioning RED BOX Schematic ||
|| ||
|| Written by: R.J. "BoB" Dobbs ||
|| ||
\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\/////////////////////
::What is a Red Box?::
Essentially, the Red Box is a device used to fool the phone company's
computer into thinking coins are deposited into a payphone. Every time you
drop a coin into a payphone, the phone signals the type of coin inserted with
one or more bursts of a combination of 1700hz and 2200hz. The tone bursts are
coded as follows:
Nickel : One 60 millisecond pulse
Dime : Two 60 millisecond pulses separated by 60 milliseconds
Quarter: Five 35 millisecond pulses separated by 35 milliseconds
::How to use it::
Simply dial a long distance number (some areas require you to stick in
a genuine nickel first), wait for the ACTS computer to demand your cash, and
press the "deposit" button on the red box for each coin you want to simulate.
The coin signals are coupled from the red box into the phone with a small
speaker held to the mouthpiece. For local calls, either you must first deposit
a genuine nickle before simulating more coins or place your call through the
operator with 0+xxx+yyyy. Use some care when the operator is on the line -
sometimes they catch on to your beeper ploy.
::Circuit Operation::
Each time the pushbutton is pressed, it triggers half of IC1, configured
as a monostable multivibrator to energize the rest of the circuit for a length
of time determined by the setting of the coin selector switch. This in turn
starts the other half of IC1, configured as an astable multivibrator, pulsing
on and off at regular intervals at a rate determined by the 100k pot between
pins 12 and 13. The output of the astable thus alternately powers of IC2,
configured as a square wave oscillator, providing the required 1700hz and
2200hz to the op amp which acts as a buffer to drive the speaker.
::Alignment & Testing::
When you are making this thing by no means should you use a 9v AC to DC
adapter! I also suggest not using a bread board. So be careful with that
sodering iron. Both of these things will cause you problems.
For alignment, a frequency counter is desired but you can use a good
oscilloscope as well. (These are not ABSOLUTELY necessary, but to help.) In
order to figure frequency in Hz with your scope you can use the following
formula.
1 S = The measurement of the wave that is on the display
Hz = -----------
S*(T*10^-6) T = The setting of the time selector (milliseconds)
1
Hz = ------------------ Hz = 2198
9.1 * 50ms * 10^-6
Carefully remove IC1 from it's socket. Install a temporary jumper from
+9v supply to pin 14 of IC2 and temporarily disconnect the 0.01uF capacitors
from pins 5 and 9 of IC2. Power up the circuit. Measuring the output from pin
5 of IC2 with the frequency counter or scope, adjust the 50k pot between pins 1
and 6 for an output of 1700hz. Now adjust the 50k pot between pins 8 and 13
for an output of 2200hz from pin 9 of IC2. Remove the temporary jumper and
re-attach the capacitors to pins 5 and 9 of IC2, and re-insert IC1. (Note: if
no frequency counter is available, the outputs can be adjusted by ear one at a
time by zero-beating the output tone with a computer generated tone of known
precision.)
Next, using a multimeter, adjust the 10K pot at the cathode of the
"quarter" diode for resistance of approximately 8K ohms. (This sets the
difference between the duration of the quarter pulses and those of the
nickel/dime -- fine tuning of this ratio may be necessary durring the latter
stages of alignment; this can be done by ear.)
Now, temporarily disconnect the wire between pins 5 and 10 of IC1. Set
coin selector switch in the "N" (nickel) position. With the oscilloscope
measuring the output from pin 9 of IC1, adjust the 100k pot between pins 12 and
13 of IC1 for output pulses of 60 millisecond duration. Reconnect the wire
between pins 5 and 10. (Note: If no scope is available, adjust the pulse rate
by ear using computer generated tones for comparison.)
Leave the selector switch in the "N" position. Adjust the 50K pot
labeled "Nickel" for a single beep each time the deposit pushbutton is pressed.
Next set the coin selector switch to "Dime". Adjust the 50k pot labelled
"Dime" for a quick double beep each time the pushbutton is pressed.
Finally, set the selector to "Quarter". Adjust the 50k pot labelled
"Quarter" until exactly 5 very quick beeps are heard for each button
press. Don't worry if the quarter beeps sound shorter and faster than
the nickel and dime ones. They should be.
::Conclusion::
If all went well to this point, your red box should be completely
aligned and functional. A final test should now be conducted from a payphone
using the DATL (Dial Access Test Line) coin test. Dial 09591230 and follow the
computer instructions using the red box at the proper prompts. The computer
should correctly identify all coins "simulated" and flag any anomalies. With a
little discretion, your red box should bring you many years of use. Remember,
there is no such thing as spare change!
::Parts list for Red Box::
2 556 Dual Timer IC's 8 0.01uF Caps
1 741 Op Amp IC 2 0.1uF Cap
2 1N914 Diodes 1 1.0uF Electrolytic Cap
5 10k Resistors 2 10uF Electrolytic Caps
1 4.7k Resistor 1 3 Position Rotary Switch
2 100k Resistors 1 SPST Toggle Switch
1 100k PC Mount Pots 1 Momentary Push Button Switch (n/o)
3 50k PC Mount Pot 1 9v Battery Clip
1 10k PC Mount Pot 2 14 Pin Dip Socket
2 50k Multi-Turn Pots 1 8 Pin Dip Socket
::Schematic::
_
+9__S1/ _____________________________________________________________
| | | | | S3 |
R1 R2 | R3 o @ o |
|___C1___| _____| |_________|/___ / o \___ |
| ____|_____|_____|____ | | |\ | | _| |
_| o | 6 4 14 | R4 R5 D1 | | R9< |
S2 | o _|5 13|_____| | | |__ | |
| | | | |__ g | _| | |
g |_|10 IC1 8|_ _| | R8< | |
| 556 | |__R6< |__ | | |
_|9 12|_| _| | | |
| | | |__C2__g R7< | | |
| |_11___3___7___2___1__| | | | |
| | | | |___|_______________________|____|____| |
| | C3 | | |
|__|/| | | C4 |
| |\ | | | |
| D2 g g g |
|_____________________ |
| | | |
___ R10 | R11 ___ |
v | | | | | v |
__R12 |__| ___|___ |__| R13__ |
| _|___|___|___|____|_ | |
| | 1 4 14 10 13 | | |
| | | | |
|_______|6 8|_______| |
| | | IC2 | | | |
C5 |__|2 556 12|__| C6 |
| | | | |
g __|3 11|__ g |
| |_____7___5___9______| | |
C7 | | | C8 |
| | C9 C10 | |
| | |___| | |
g g | g |
| |
| ________________________________|
| | |
| R14 |
| | |\ |
| | | \ |
|___________|___________|3 \|
| | | 7 \
C11 R15 |IC3 \
| | |741 6/___
g g | 4 / |
| /| |
g_[speaker]___C12______|2 / | |
| |/ g |
|_______________|
::Schematic Parts Code::
R1:10K R4:10K R7:50K pot R10:10K R13:50K pot
R2:10K R5:10K R8:50K pot R11:10K R14:100K
R3:4.7K R6:100K pot R9:50K pot R12:50K pot R15:100K
C1:0.01uf C4:10uf C7:0.01uf C10:0.01uf
C2:1.00uf C5:0.01uf C8:0.01uf C11:0.10uf D1 :1N914
C3:0.01uf C6:0.01uf C9:0.01uf C12:10uf D2 :1N914
S1 - SPST toggle
S2 - Momentary push button Normally Open
S3 - 3-position rotary switch g - Ground
-------------------------- END INCLUDED FILE ---------------------------------
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Other Construction Methods
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
There are countless other ways of constructing a working red box, and I
will explain a few of them here.
Just about the easiest way to make a red box is to simply record the tones
onto a tape and play them through a portable tape player, such as a walkman.
Then, just hold the headphones up to the phone with the volume all the way up
and you're all set. The drawbacks to this design are, again you need to have
a way of generating the quarter tone in the first place, and the batteries in
the walkman must be fresh. This is because as the batteries wear down, the
tape will play a little bit slower, and even if it isn't noticeable, the
frequencies and timings will be slightly lower and it may not work.
If you have a computer and a sound card, you can easily generate the
quarter tone by playing the included QUARTER.VOC file, or generating them with
programs like BOX.EXE (included), BlueBeep, BoxTones, etc. If you don't have
a sound card, you may be able to find a sound driver for the PC speaker so
that you can use these programs, or try using the included segment of QBasic
code to play the tones. You will have to connect the input that you are
recording onto directly to the wires going to the PC speaker, so you may want
to stay away from these methods. Another method of obtaining the quarter tone
is from a payphone itself. You can bring along a portable cassette recorder
and a suction cup induction coil pickup (less than $4 at Radio Shack) and
record the tones as you deposit a quarter by placing the suction cup bear the
speaker, or even call your answering machine at home and record the tones that
way. You can also get the tones from another red box, but if you already had
one, you probably wouldn't need the tones...
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
QBasic Red Box
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
For those of you with no sound card in need of the quarter tone, here is a
short piece of QBasic code that will generate the quarter tone through the PC
speaker.
This is just something I was playing around with a few years ago in my
spare time, and finally decided to do something with. It's not very useful,
but it makes the necessary red box tones, and could be modified to generate
just about any tones for phreaking. They may or may not work if you record
the tones by hooking up a recording device to the output wires to your PC
speaker... Probably not really worth the time.
It's more of an interesting little demo for the beginner phreak who
doesn't really have a clue what most of this is all about. It's a small piece
of code I wrote in QBASIC which basically (no pun intended) alternates between
the two desired frequencies as fast as possible without losing the actual
frequencies. The timing and frequencies are accurate, and should sound just
like any other quarter tone, but with a little lower sound quality.
------------------------------ BEGIN PROGRAM ---------------------------------
FOR j% = 1 TO 5 ' repeat 5 times
FOR i% = 1 TO 33 / 8 ' sound multifrequency tone for 33 ms
SOUND 1700, 4 * .0182 ' sound 1700 hz for 4 ms
SOUND 2200, 4 * .0182 ' sound 2200 hz for 4 ms
NEXT i%
SOUND 0, 33 * .0182 ' delay 33 ms between tones
NEXT j%
------------------------------- END PROGRAM ----------------------------------
This piece of code will generate the tones for a quarter, but it can be
modified quite readily to accomodate any other frequencies or timings for
other tones such as those for a nickel, dime, or those used in blue boxing.
The following piece of code is a more generalized version of the same code
that can be used by plugging in values for the variables, or by using it as a
subroutine in a larger program. To use this, an explanation of the variables
is probably necessary...
num% - the number of times to repeat the specified tones
length% - the length for the tones to be sounded in ms
freq1% - the frequency of the first tone to be sounded in hz
freq2% - the frequency of the second tone to be sounded in hz
delay% - the lenght of the delay between soundings of the tones in ms
------------------------------ BEGIN PROGRAM ---------------------------------
FOR j% = 1 TO num%
FOR i% = 1 TO length% / 8
SOUND freq1%, 4 * .0182
SOUND freq2%, 4 * .0182
NEXT i%
SOUND 0, delay% * .0182
NEXT j%
------------------------------- END PROGRAM ----------------------------------
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
QUARTER.VOC
~~~~~~~~~~~
For those of you with a sound card on your computer, here's the sound of a
quarter tone in .voc format, uuencoded. Enjoy...
------------------------- CUT HERE --------------------------
begin 644 quarter.voc
M0W)E871I=F4@5F]I8V4@1FEL91H:``H!*1$!>!D`TP!^:V=M>8!]<F5>9'F:
MNLS'J7="&Q$J7Z+=_/;+B403!1Q/CL3@WK^29TI#3V=^C9")?WR#DJ*KHXMF
M0BPO3H&ZY?/=J64G!`8M;;+E]^6U>40F)D!ID:RTJ9:"=WB`AXA]:59+4VZ6
MO]G9NX9*&@@:39+2^?O8FE8B#!I%?K'0T[V9=%Q476U\@W]V;W*!F+"\M9AL
M/R$?.W&PX_KLNW8T"0,B7:#5[N2]B%8X,T5EAINAFHV"@(:2F)2!94HZ05^.
MO^'HS9=6'@,./(##\?SAJ6@R%QY`<:"^Q;6:?FMG;7F`?7)E7F1YFKK,QZEW
M0AL1*E^BW?SVRXE$P4<3X[$X=Z_DF=*0T]G?HV0B7]\@Y*BJZ.+9D(L+TZ!
MNN7SW:EE)P0&+6ZRY??EM7E$)B9`:9&LM*F6@G=X@(>(?6E62U-NEK_9V;N&
M2AH(&DV2TOG[V)I6(@P:17ZQT-.]F71<5%UM?(-_=F]R@9BPO+68;#\A'SMQ
ML./ZZ[MV-`D#(EV@U>[DO8A6.#-%98:;H9J-@H"&DIB4@65*.D%?CK_AZ,V7
M5AX##CR`P_'\X:EH,A<>0'&@OL6UFGYK9VUY@'UR95YD>9JZS,>I=T(;$2I?
MHMW\]LN)1!,%'$^.Q.'>OY)G2D-/9WZ-D(E_?(.2HJNCBV9"+"].@;KE\]VI
M92<$!BUNLN7WY;5Y1"8F0&F1K+2IE8)W>("'B'UI5DM3;I:_V=FZADH:"!I-
MDM+Y^]B:5B(,&D5^LM#3O9ET7%1=;7R#?W9O<H&8L+RUF&P_(1\[<;#D^NN[
M=C0)`R)=H-7NY+V(5C@S166&FZ&:C8*`AY*8E(%E2CI!7XZ_X>C-EU4>`PX\
M@,/Q_.&I:#(7'D!QH+[%M9I^:V=M>8!]<F5>9'F:NLS'J7="&Q$J7Z+=_/;+
MB$03!1Q/CL3AWK^29TI#3V=_C9")?X"`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`
M@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`
M@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`
M@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`
M@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`
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M@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`
M@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`
M@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`
M@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`
M@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`
M@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`
M@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`
M@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`@("`
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`
end
------------------------- CUT HERE --------------------------
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
BOX.EXE
~~~~~~~
I also thought you might be able to use this little program called
BOX.EXE, out of Phrack issue #46. Unlike QUARTER.VOC, you need no other
software to play the tones, only a sound card is required. It also gerates
other useful tones...
------------------------- BEGIN INCLUDED FILE --------------------------------
==Phrack Magazine==
Volume Five, Issue Forty-Five, File 22 of 28