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Why there is no such thing as a superfood

Don t believe the hype about certain 'magical' ingredients they are never as

good as the claims would suggest.

By Bianca Nogrady

24 November 2016

World-changing ideas summit

Google diet and you ll get nearly half-a-billion results in less time than it

takes to swallow. There are diets that tell you to count calories and diets

that tell you to focus on food groups. There are diets that tell you to avoid

carbs and diets that tell you to carbo-load. There are diets that tell you to

eat a handful of blueberries, or a handful of walnuts, or that you should load

all your foods with lemon juice, cinnamon or turmeric. Eggs, potatoes and

full-fat dairy are out, then they re back in.

It s a nutritional version of the lawless wild west , but it s also a whole

lot of sound and fury that achieves nothing, nutritionist Rosemary Stanton told

the audience at the BBC Future World-Changing Ideas Summit in Sydney last week.

The super foods fad is yet another sign of the never-ending search for a magic

bullet to solve problems, she says. Such thinking, which ignores the

multi-factorial nature of diet-related health problems, is probably the

greatest myth.

A big problem is our focus on individual nutrients or ingredients. Stanton

argues this takes the focus away from fresh produce and towards processed

foods. Our fixation with specific vitamins or mineral also creates an

environment in which manufacturers can add nutrients to food and make health

claims for those foods.

Stanton is yet to find an Australian deficient in the sort of nutrients that go

into fortified cereals

Then it achieves a health halo and it sells, and you see this with heavily

sweetened breakfast cereals, Stanton says. I get concerned when people find

that something s good then they stick it in their Coco Pops. Stanton points

out that she is yet to find an Australian deficient in the sort of nutrients

that go into fortified cereals.

There is one ingredient that Stanton is happy to single out: sugar. She argues

that a sugar tax is low-hanging fruit that governments would be foolish not

to pick. But the food industry around the world has been fighting

tooth-and-nail against such an approach, which Stanton takes as a sign of

encouragement. Whenever the processed food industry opposes something

vehemently, I ve got a pretty good idea it would work.

In general, Stanton argues that the same age-old dietary wisdom still holds:

lots of fresh fruit and vegetables, whole grains, small amounts of protein,

particularly fish and seafood. For this reason, the Mediterranean diet is often

upheld by many as the closest thing to a dietary magic bullet, heavy in

plant-based foods and oily fish.

The chair of the discussion at WCIS was BBC TV presenter Michael Mosley, who

has argued that regularly fasting for a couple of days a week (the so-called

5-2 diet) can improve our health. View the video below in which Mosley explains

his reasoning:

Seaweed pasta

Despite Stanton's objection to painting those so-called 'superfoods' as a

nutritional panacea, she supports efforts to find new, environmentally

sustainable sources of food as part of a balanced diet. Marine ecologist Pia

Winberg from Venus Shell Systems offered one option at the BBC Future

World-Changing Ideas Summit, when she presented a convincing argument that

seaweed could become a major component of food in the future.

Her involvement with seaweed began with projects using seaweeds to clean up

nutrient waste along coastlines. But when she and other began realising the

nutritional value of seaweed, their focus shifted to food. The seaweed Winberg

and colleagues cultivate is not only a rich source of protein, it also provides

omega-3 fatty acids, fibre, anti-oxidants and an array of vitamins and

minerals. For this reason, it could be a sustainable alternative to fish and

other kinds of seafood.

The challenge is how to get something like seaweed into the diet of an

individual more familiar with food that comes in polystyrene containers. We

need to make it easy for mainstream individuals to eat, rather than try to

change their practices, Winberg told the Summit. To achieve that, they ve

developed an extract of the seaweed, containing all the important ingredients,

which can be put into existing foods such as pasta.

The cultivation of seaweed as a foodstuff can also have environmental benefits

beyond taking pressure off exhausted fish stocks. Creating seaweed industries

is a great incentive to maintain clean coastlines, Winberg says.