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Fakes and status in China

China is known for malinvestment . Its consumption habits are also pretty

dodgy

Jun 23rd 2012 | from the print edition

MOST shop windows proudly showcase what can be bought inside. The window of the

Silk Street Market, a touristy shopping centre in Beijing, is a bit different.

It displays a pair of official notices advertising what cannot be bought

inside. These non-offerings include luxury brands such as Prada, Louis Vuitton

and Burberry. The notices are meant to save customers from buying fakes

unwittingly. But many still buy them wittingly. You could almost say that

counterfeits remain Silk Street s trademark, despite the market s efforts to

stamp them out. On the ground floor, a purple Paul Smith polo-shirt from a

Guangzhou factory was offered to your correspondent for 1,285 yuan ($200), a

price which eventually fell to 150 yuan. It is not easy to walk away from such

bargains. Especially when the stall holder will not let go of your coat.

Economists and policymakers around the world want China to consume more. They

are eager for it to reduce its dependence on investment, which amounted to

almost half of GDP last year. No economy that invests so heavily can possibly

invest it all wisely. Economists therefore worry about a widespread

misallocation of capital, or malinvestment . But some of China s consumption

is also a bit questionable.

Fake goods are rife. Researchers once stopped every fifth person in a Shanghai

mall and asked them about their buying habits. Of the 202 who completed the

survey, almost three-quarters admitted to buying knock-off luxury goods. The

resulting paper* by Ian Phau and Min Teah of Curtin University of Technology in

Australia was titled Devil wears (counterfeit) Prada . Some people buy luxury

brands as an act of self-expression. Others buy them as an act of social

emulation. They want to wear the same brands as the people they aspire to be.

The Chinese are more likely to be this second type of buyer, according to

Lingjing Zhan of Hong Kong Polytechnic University and Yanqun He of Fudan

University. And, other studies suggest, such status-seeking consumers are more

likely to buy counterfeits.

A Prada handbag is a bundle of two things: a well-made product and a

well-marketed brand. But some consumers value prestige, not quality. Fakes

allow shoppers to consume the prestigious brand without buying the

high-quality good, as Gene Grossman of Princeton and Carl Shapiro, now of the

University of California, Berkeley, pointed out in a seminal 1988 paper. This

unbundling no doubt drives Prada and others mad, but it would seem to be a boon

to consumers.

Or is it? As Messrs Grossman and Shapiro also point out, a luxury brand confers

status only because it is exclusive. It has to be widely popular but not

widely accessible , as one marketing professor puts it. People who buy Prada

are paying for exclusivity. The devils who wear counterfeit Prada erode that

exclusivity, imposing an externality on owners of the genuine article.

As counterfeiters rush to replicate a brand, the brand owners fight to

distinguish themselves from the fakes. In a recent paper, Yi Qian of Kellogg

School of Management studies the response of branded Chinese shoemakers to an

influx of fakes after the government shifted its enforcement efforts to more

urgent things, such as stamping out counterfeit food, drugs and alcohol. Many

shoemakers reacted by improving the quality of their footwear, importing

Italian pattern-pressing machines and using pricier materials, such as

crocodile skin. Their response contradicts the popular notion that fakes

inhibit innovation and investment. But firms also raised prices by more than

was warranted by their extra costs. Buyers of fakes therefore impose a cost on

people who want to buy the real thing. They make brands less exclusive or more

expensive.

But it is possible that buying genuine luxuries imposes an externality of its

own. Status, after all, is a positional good. To be top of the social heap,

it is not enough to have fine things. Your things need to be finer than

everyone else s. Someone who buys a more expensive watch or car to climb up the

social ladder forces other social climbers to spend more to stay ahead. In

making their purchase, they will carefully weigh how much prestige their big

spending will buy. But they will not take into account how much extra everyone

else will now have to spend to preserve their social position. As a result of

these arms races , China may be overspending on luxury goods. Its shoppers

account for only 6% of the world s consumer spending, but, according to figures

released by Bain Consulting last month, they now account for 20% of global

sales of luxury goods.

Sympathy for the devil

These wasteful status games are not confined to China s finely dressed elites.

In China s villages, people cement their position in the local pecking order by

hosting expensive weddings, funerals and other ceremonies for their own family

and buying costly gifts for other people s. Xi Chen and Ravi Kanbur of Cornell

University, and Xiaobo Zhang of the International Food Policy Research

Institute, have studied the gift-books kept by households in 18 poor villages

in the mountains of Guizhou, a southern province. They found that the poorest

households (those living on less than $1 a day at purchasing-power parity)

spent about 30% of their budgets on gifts and festivals, twice as much as

similarly impoverished Indians. When a household enjoyed a sudden windfall such

as compensation for requisitioned land they would spend more, forcing everyone

else to keep pace. Economists fret that Chinese investment is marred by

wasteful prestige projects, orchestrated by local bigwigs seeking to outdo one

another. Perhaps its consumption is not that different.

Sources

"Devil wears (counterfeit) Prada: a study of antecedents and outcomes of

attitudes towards counterfeits of luxury brands", by Ian Phau and Min Teah.

Journal of Consumer Marketing 26/1 (2009)

"Understanding luxury consumption in China: Consumer perceptions of best-known

brands", by Lingjing Zhan and Yanqun He. Journal of Business Research, in press

"Why do consumers buy counterfeit luxury brands?", by Keith Wilcox, Hyeong Min

Kim and Sankar Sen

"Foreign counterfeiting of status goods", by Gene Grossman and Carl Shapiro,

1988

"The impact of counterfeiting on genuine-item consumers' brand relationships",

by Suraj Commuri

"Brand management and strategies against counterfeits", by Yi Qian, 2012

"Peer Effects, Risk Pooling, and Status Seeking: What Explains Gift Spending

Escalation in Rural China?" by Xi Chen, Ravi Kanbur and Xiaobo Zhang. IFPRI

Discussion Paper December 2011

Economist.com/blogs/freeexchange

from the print edition | Finance and economics