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Advanced manufacturing - Adidas s high-tech factory brings production back to

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Making trainers with robots and 3D printers

Jan 14th 2017

BEHIND closed doors in the Bavarian town of Ansbach a new factory is taking

shape. That it will use robots and novel production techniques such as additive

manufacturing (known as 3D printing) is not surprising for Germany, which has

maintained its manufacturing base through innovative engineering. What is

unique about this factory is that it will not be making cars, aircraft or

electronics but trainers and other sports shoes an $80bn-a-year industry that

has been offshored largely to China, Indonesia and Vietnam. By bringing

production home, this factory is out to reinvent an industry.

The Speedfactory, as the Ansbach plant is called, belongs to Adidas, a giant

German sports-goods firm, and is being built with Oechsler Motion, a local firm

that makes manufacturing equipment. Production is due to begin in mid-2017,

slowly at first and then ramping up to 500,000 pairs of trainers a year. Adidas

is constructing a second Speedfactory near Atlanta for the American market. If

all goes well, they will spring up elsewhere, too.

The numbers are tiny for a company that makes some 300m pairs of sports shoes

each year. Yet Adidas is convinced the Speedfactory will help it to transform

the way trainers are created. The techniques it picks up from the project can

then be rolled out to other new factories as well as to existing ones,

including in Asia where demand for sports and casual wear is rising along with

consumer wealth.

Currently, trainers are made mostly by hand in giant factories, often in Asian

countries, with people assembling components or shaping, bonding and sewing

materials. Rising prosperity in the region means the cost of manual work

outsourced to the region is rising. Labour shortages loom. Certain jobs require

craft skills which are becoming rarer; many people now have the wherewithal to

avoid tasks that can be dirty or monotonous.

Adidas s motivation for its Speedfactories, however, goes well beyond labour

cost. People want fashionable shoes immediately, but the supply chain struggles

to keep up. The way our business operates is probably the opposite of what

consumers desire, says Gerd Manz, the company s head of technology innovation.

From the first sketch of a completely new pair of trainers to making and

testing prototypes, ordering materials, sending samples back and forth,

retooling a factory, working up production and eventually shipping the finished

goods to the shops can take the industry as long as 18 months. Yet some

three-quarters of new trainers are now on sale for less than a year. An order

to replenish an existing, in-demand design the latest edition of the NMD R1,

say, a popular trainer in 2015-16 can take two or three months to reach the

shelves, unless the shoes travel not in a shipping container but at huge cost

in the hold of an aircraft.

On your marks...

The Speedfactory s main strength is to shorten the supply chain, and so the

time to shops, to less than a week, perhaps even to a day, once the trainer

design is complete. The design process itself is increasingly done digitally.

The trainers are not just styled on a computer screen but can also be tested by

the computer for things like fit and performance. To enhance the process, the

Speedfactory will also have a digital twin: a virtual computer model in which

production of the new trainers can be simulated. Once all is well, the digital

product will then move to the physical production system.

Adidas claims its new production system is extremely fast and highly flexible.

The details are being kept secret for now. What is known, however, is that

instead of ordering components that will be assembled into a new pair of

trainers, the Speedfactory will instead make most of the parts itself from raw

materials, such as plastics, fibres and other basic substances.

The machines carrying out this work will be highly automated and use processes

such as computerised knitting, robotic cutting and additive manufacturing,

which involves building up shapes layer by layer. Industrial 3D printing

machines are appearing in many different forms and are capable of handling an

increasing variety of materials. Driven by software, the robots, knitting

machines and 3D printers take their instructions directly from the

computer-design program, so they can switch from making one thing to another

quickly, without having to stop production for what can amount to several days

in order to retool conventional machines and instruct manual workers.

Not every job in the Speedfactory will be automated. Robots can be slower and

less precise at some tasks, such as the final shaping of a shoe. So each

Speedfactory will create 160 production jobs, compared with a thousand or more

in a typical factory in Asia. The new functions will also be more highly

skilled. Adidas wants the new plants to complement the Asian operations, not to

compete with them. But as advanced manufacturing expands, the need for armies

of manual workers in Asian factories will surely diminish.

Sneakerheads are likely to approve. This will lead to products that will look

and perform differently, says Mr Manz. Leaving behind manual production

methods will allow Adidas to come up with novel shapes and finishes. One new

material the firm has already experimented with is Biosteel, a synthetic silk

made by AMSilk, a German biotech company. Production will also become more

customised, perhaps even with bespoke trainers fashioned from a computer scan

of how a person walks or runs.

In such a competitive and trend-driven market, one thing is certain: Adidas s

arch-rival Nike will not just sit on the touchline. The American company faces

similar cost increases in Asia and is equally keen to shorten the time it takes

to get new products to market.

One of its initiatives is a form of computerised knitting to make the upper

parts of a range of trainers it calls Flyknit, much like the way a sock is

knitted. Nike has also set up what it calls an Advanced Product Creation Centre

at its headquarters in Beaverton, Oregon, to explore other automated production

methods, including 3D printing. The company has already employed these

techniques to produce customised shoes for some top athletes. The race between

the world s biggest sports-shoe makers is about to become much more fleet of

foot.