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Singapore is small in size but huge in ambition, developing at a breakneck
pace. Its arts and music scenes are similarly on the up, and its mix of
colonial architecture and colourful traditional buildings has never looked
better.
Best for art and museums
The Asian Civilisations Museum, located in the grand old Empress Place
Building, houses galleries which explore culture, religion and civilisation
from across Asia. Artefacts include a red sandstone Buddha from India,
calligraphy and decorative art, and a display of krisses daggers said to have
spiritual powers (1 Empress Pl; closed Mon morning; admission 4).
Related article: A local's guide to Singapore
The Ikkan Art Gallery is the biggest hitter among a clutch of excellent art
galleries in the Tanjong Pagar Distripark complex, a short walk southwest of
Chinatown. Ikkan Art displays the work of international artists in four or five
exhibitions a year. Recent ones have focused on new media art from
Beijing-based artist and photographer Miao Xiaochun and Chinese dissident Ai
Weiwei (39 Keppel Road 01 05; closed Sun & Mon; admission free).
The National Museum of Singapore occupies a 19th-century building, and its
multimedia exhibits focus on the city s history, culture and achievements.
Visitors can see the natural history drawings of William Farquhar, an early
colonial commandant, and a gallery that celebrates the city s street food
culture through artefacts and sound installations (93 Stamford Rd; admission
5).
Best for architecture
The Baba House is one of Chinatown s best-preserved heritage homes, and offers
a glimpse into the hybrid culture of Singapore s Peranakan (Chinese-Malay)
minority as it would have been circa 1928. Entertaining, hour-long tours run
four times a week: they re free, but need to be booked in advance (157 Neil
Rd).
The Raffles Hotel, a colonial edifice that first opened in 1887, is one of the
most famous hotels in the world: it s known for the Singapore sling cocktail
invented here around 1915 and remains a byword for Oriental luxury. Its
lobby, bars, outdoor areas and museum, open to the public, are among Singapore
s major tourist attractions, and rightly so. Dress standards apply, so don t
come in shorts and sandals (1 Beach Rd; admission free to lobby and museum).
The Kampong Glam district s gold-domed epicentre is the Sultan Mosque (Masjid
Sultan). First built in 1825, it was replaced 100 years later with the current
structure. The prayer hall can fit 5,000 worshippers; a red digital clock
spoils the atmosphere a little, but at least everybody knows when to pray.
Visitors are shown around most parts of the mosque and tours in English are
available (3 Muscat St; closed to visitors Fri morning; admission free).
Best for music and theatre
The Esplanade Theatres on the Bay is the poster-boy for contemporary
Singapore: the building has been compared to flies eyes, a melting honeycomb
and two upturned durian fruit. Its 1,800-capacity hall serves as a venue for
concerts, recitals and performances from the Singapore Symphony Orchestra (1
Esplanade Dr; orchestra tickets from 20).
Theatreworks is one of the country s more experimental and interesting theatre
companies. Artistic director Ong Keng Sen has helped to establish Theatreworks
as a champion of intercultural theatre Singaporean creatives work together
with Western and international contemporaries in dance, performance art and
drama (72 13 Mohamed Sultan Rd; tickets from around 14).
Unlike many of Singapore s live music venues, Tab doesn t rely on covers bands
to keep the punters happy: the focus of this mid-sized venue is on local talent
and songwriters, plus nightly club features and live concerts from wandering
foreign performers. Expect blues, gospel, rock, funk and an audience as diverse
as the music policy (02 29 Orchard Hotel, 442 Orchard Rd; admission free or
around 10).
Where to stay
The newly opened Mayo Inn provides good-sized, IKEA-fitted rooms in a converted
1930s shop-house on the edge of the Little India district. More expensive rooms
come with their own roof terrace (from 60; 9 Jalan Besar).
At Naumi Liora (formerly the Saff), three beautifully renovated 1920s
shophouses in Chinatown combine to create an affordable boutique hotel. Some of
the rooms have outdoor terraces (from 120; 55 Keong Saik Rd).
The New Majestic Hotel is arguably the best of Chinatown s boutique hotels. The
place offers 30 individually styled rooms done up with a mix of vintage and
designer furniture (from 160; 31-37 Bukit Pasoh Rd).
Transport
BA, Qantas and Singapore Airlines fly from Heathrow to Singapore Changi airport
(from 640). Singapore Airlines also flies from Manchester with a one-hour
layover in Munich. Shuttle buses to the city centre take around 40 minutes
(singles 4.60). Taxis make the trip in around 30 minutes, charging in the
region of 10 20. Public transport, in the form of buses and MRT (subway)
trains, is run by two companies, SBS and SMRT. The MRT network also serves the
airport (singles from 1).