https://i.redd.it/dyr07muzojge1.jpeg
created by Nish786 on 01/02/2025 at 15:21 UTC
95 upvotes, 7 top-level comments (showing 7)
Hi everyone. Wanted some advice about starting again with the hobby.
I’ve always moaned about not having time to build models. Now, thanks to major surgery, I’m off work for six weeks.
So, my mate bought me this to get me back into the hobby I loved 30+ years ago.
Id like some advice regarding painting. When I was a kid, I’d buy the paints and paint the kit and that was that. Now, I see all sorts of kits and sprays and all sorts. Also, back in the day, I’d use enamel paints. Now, it seems you can only get acrylic paints which for military scale modelling seems a bit rubbish?
Anyway, was hoping to get some advice about what to do with this kit:
1. are there kits for the painting people could recommend? Sprays, brushes etc.
2. same as above for the building - is it worth getting vices and stuff or just a simple kit from Amazon or some such retailer?
3. people recommended clubs, but it seems the nearest clubs to me are far away. (I live in London) - is this something I should consider?
4. any other advice or help would be welcome
Thanks everyone
Comment by tenyearsgone28 at 01/02/2025 at 16:00 UTC
7 upvotes, 1 direct replies
Get a a pre-cut canopy mask.
Use Mr. Hobby or Vallejo Model Air acrylics for paint. Tamiya makes excellent acrylics, but I think you have to mix the colors.
The best glue is a thin formula like Tamiya.
The only tools I use are simple files and tweezers.
Comment by quicksilver425 at 01/02/2025 at 17:48 UTC
4 upvotes, 0 direct replies
As far as paint, I brush paint exclusively with acrylics. I think they are great. Easy cleanup, no odor, and inexpensive. The hardest part is being patient with the thin layers that will get you the best results.
Ive only been at this a year, so I’m not an expert by any means. But the only can product I use is primer. Which I would also highly recommend or painting will be a drag.
There are a lot of YouTube videos out there and the wiki for this sub is awesome too. Tamiya extra thin is the way to go for joining parts.
This plane was Mr Surfacer rattle can primer and then all Vallejo Model Color acrylics, including the gloss and matte coats.
Comment by exposed_anus at 01/02/2025 at 15:30 UTC
3 upvotes, 1 direct replies
If you have a ventilation system and proper mask, Tamiya and Gunze laquers spray the best through an airbrush i almost never use acrylics anymore
Comment by SnarkMasterRay at 02/02/2025 at 00:32 UTC
2 upvotes, 0 direct replies
First, sorry to hear about the surgery - hope it went / goes well and you have a good recovery!
1. are there kits for the painting people could recommend? Sprays, brushes etc.
Plenty of companies have paint sets you can buy, but I generally don't recommend them as a regular purchase as how many bottles of tire black does one need? Fir a first kit like this it should be fine. I looked up the kit on scalemates[1] and it looks like the three options they give you were all Dark Green and Earth (brown) on the topside with one being Sky (very light green) for the underside and the other two either being a painted aluminum (versus bare metal) or painted aluminum and Left wing black / right wing white (for identification purposes at night). I tend to do my own research on colours as manufacturers often will give close approximations in colour ranges they have partnerships with that aren't quite right. Tamiya has a couple of lines of their own paint and RAF subjects are popular enough that they have the correct colors for you, but before we really get into that we need to determine what method(s) you want to use. There are some excellent paints that are formulated for airbrushes and would be inappropriate for brush painting, for example.
1: https://www.scalemates.com/kits/tamiya-61119-supermarine-spitfire-mki--1162877
I like to advocate for a stepped approach with models. Try a few new things with each one and don't try and aim for perfection your first go at it. Tamiya is a good brand and that is a relatively new kit, so it should build well with very few vices, and paint is going to be one of the things to think through.
One handy thing about the Spitfire is that the camouflage pattern was applied using hard rubber masks with a sharp edge, so you don't need an airbrush to pull it off. You can brush paint it "easily" or use an airbrush or aerosol (rattle) can. For the later two you will need some form of masking material. Regular store bought tape is very strong and will often pull up paint that it has been applied over. I use a combination of tapes from Aizu, Tamiya, and HIQ Parts that have less tack and are less likely to pull up the paint. In some cases when I have had to mask over decals I have wet newspaper and laid it down - each have their own methods to evaluate and practice.
With brush painting, the biggest problem is going to be the brush strokes. I would recommend practicing a few times first - the inside of the wings and fuselage can be a good area for that. The goal is to paint, let it dry and see how it looks. If it's too thin and you can see plastic through, you will need a second coat, but that can be problematic as the new paint can re-activate the old paint and cause more noticeable paint lines at best and the paint the look even worse at worst. I don't brush paint the exteriors of models so I'm less familiar with the ins and outs with the newer paints, but would recommend looking into how long a paint takes to dry or cure and give it that full time at the very minimum before applying a second coat - I will generally give things an extra couple of days to a week just to be very safe when switching from one type of paint to another (I use different types and manufacturers of paints on the same kits and generally it's safe as long as you let the initial layer fully cure before applying a second layer from a different manufacturer).
You will need to brush paint fine details in the cockpit, for the most part, but otherwise if you don't want to go that route using an aerosol can is the second cheapest to get into and can produce good results.
The instructions sheet will give you the pattern and you can use aftermarket mask sets[2], but I would advocate for practicing with tape and saving the money. This goes for canopy masks as well, although if you do go that route I would certainly understand and suggest you buy *two* for your first go at it.
2: https://dnmodels.com/product/supermarine-spitfire-type-b-camouflage-paint-masks-set-1-48/
Many of the modern model masking tapes come from Japanese "Washi" tape, which is essentially a semi-transparent plant fiber. Tamiya was the first to really spread it wide and certainly has a wide variety of tapes; thin[3], thick[4], and plenty in between fairly easily buyable online. It is probably the easiest for you to find online. I don't know how the Gundam models scene in the UK, but they have driven a lot of innovation in products as well and products that could be helpful if you want to continue building after your recovery and some form of investment makes sense. I get some from some friends who sell locally on the US West coast and am not sure where best to find them in London or online in the UK, but Aizu Micron tape[5] and HIQ Parts circles and dots[6] are very similar to the Tamiya tape and very handy for extra thin lines or dots to use for corners of canopies. AK Interactive has also started selling similar tape[7], but I haven't tried it out yet and can't relate any experience.
3: https://www.tamiya.com/english/products/87207/index.html
4: https://www.tamiya.com/english/products/87063/index.html
5: https://modelpaintsol.com/model-paint/aizu-project-micron-masking-tape
6: https://modelpaintsol.com/model-paint/small-circle-masking-1-2-8mm-hiq-parts
7: https://ak-interactive.com/product/masking-tape-5mm/
If you want to look at what masking a canopy can look like outside of a pre-cut mask, my friend u/modelpaints has an excellent three-part series on his site - Part 1[8], Part 2[9], and Part 3[10]. I mostly use a similar method, although I have used the old 3M clear scotch tape for flat armored windscreens where I don't need to worry about the table bubbling and have a good recessed line to set the knife tip in.
8: https://modelpaintsol.com/guides/canopy-masking-tips-and-tricks-bubble-canopies
9: https://modelpaintsol.com/guides/canopy-masking-tips-round-oval-corners
10: https://modelpaintsol.com/guides/canopy-masking-tips-and-tricks-part-3-bird-cage-canopies
2. same as above for the building - is it worth getting vices and stuff or just a simple kit from Amazon or some such retailer?
I wouldn't make a huge investment for this kit. A decent XActo or scalpel and medium grit sanding stick / nail file takes care of 90% of parts. There are specialized tools such as GodHand nippers that are nice, but I wouldn't make the investment on a first kit. Maybe some decent tweezers for holding small parts, but beware that this can be a bit of a rabbit hole as there are different types, and strengths. I have some that are almost clamps because they grip so hard, and if a part manages to slide out enough that the tweezer closes the part itself will *ZINNGG* to parts unknown. My favorite recently has been a pair from Anyz[11] which is super-precise (super sharp too - ouch!) and has a good balance of tension without being too much.
11: https://anyz.io/shop/product/AN059
3. people recommended clubs
I would recommend the Britmodeller forums[12] as they have a lot of subject matter experts and locals who may be able to point you to less known clubs in the London area.
12: https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php
Sorry for the wall of text - please feel free to ask or DM any questions I left. Welcome to the hobby!
Comment by Joe_Aubrey at 01/02/2025 at 15:36 UTC
1 upvotes, 0 direct replies
Don’t know why acrylics are “rubbish”.
The instructions in the kit specifies colors required, and suggests Tamiya paints which are alcohol based acrylics. There’s a list at the front of the booklet.
Comment by Hermitcraft7 at 01/02/2025 at 17:34 UTC
1 upvotes, 0 direct replies
Hey mate! I'd start with a simple brush kit, some Tamiya acrylics or lacquers, and their appropriate thinners (X-20A or Lacquer Thinner). Make sure to buy masking tape (preferably not the large construction masking tape that is more for painting walls). I wouldn't go any further, maybe sanding sponges and some files. I personally don't use vices, I have clamps but even those I use pretty sparingly.
Comment by PresentationGood418 at 01/02/2025 at 23:40 UTC
1 upvotes, 0 direct replies
Best kit ever! Enjoy.
I would recommend getting a quality airbrush now. With that you’ll need cleaning accessories. As for paints, you can never go wrong with Tamiya acrylics (in my opinion) which you’ll need to thin before spraying. You’ll need some masking tape. I recommend Tamiya again. Some people don’t use primer but I think it’s a good idea. Tamiya or Mr Hobby spray cans are best IMO so you don’t muck up your airbrush.
Building is pretty simple: scalpel knife, something to cut the parts off the sprues, sanding sticks/paper of various grits, liquid cement, ca glue, and possibly some filler putty (which you won’t need a lot of with this kit)
