Portugal 2019

We spent two weeks in the north of Portugal.

Porto, a Juventude, Praça da Liberdade

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Cobblestone streets in Porto

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Claudia

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Cordoaria, Porto

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Cordoaria, Porto

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Cordoaria, Porto

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Livraria Lello & Irmão, Porto

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Livraria Lello & Irmão, Porto

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Livraria Lello & Irmão, Porto

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Livraria Lello & Irmão, Porto

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Clérigos, Porto

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Clérigos, Porto

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Café Majestic, Porto

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Café Majestic, Porto

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Claudia

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Café Majestic, Porto

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São Bento, Porto

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São Bento, Porto

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Santo Ildefonso, Porto

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Young seagull

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Rua de Cândido dos Reis, Porto

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Hospital Ordem São Francisco, Porto

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São Nicolau, Porto

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São Nicolau, Porto

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São Nicolau, Porto

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Rua de São Francisco, Porto

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Igreja da Ordem de São Francisco, Porto

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Infante, Porto

Old tram

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Infante, Porto

Lots of tourists queueing

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Cais da Alfândega, Porto

Running out to the beaches

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Passeio Alegre, Porto

Where the tram ends and the beaches begin

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I love the colour of these rock

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Beach, Porto

It's always windy in Portugal

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Miragaia, Porto

Walking back...

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Miragaia, Porto

... because the tram wouldn't stop and no bus would come

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Guindais, Porto

From the bridge above

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Ponte Dom Luis I, Porte

Sunset

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Guindais, Porto

From the bridge above

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Guindais, Porto

From the bridge above

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Ponte Pênsil, Porto

And Ponte Dom Luis I above, of course

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Ponte Dom Luis I by night, Porto

and Vila Nova de Gaia on the other side

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Praça da Riberia, Porto

Full of tourists

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Capela das Almas, Porto

Azuleijos are everywhere

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Parque Municipal das Virtudes, Porto

Claudia

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Parque Municipal das Virtudes, Porto

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Parque Municipal das Virtudes, Porto

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Rua da Reboleira, Porto

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Rua da Reboleira, Porto

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Porto

Looking back from Vila Nova de Gaia

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Claudia

Experimenting with black and white photography

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Alex

Suspecting something...

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I KNEW IT!!

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Jardim do Morro, Vila Nova de Gaia

Looking at the Douro river

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Jardim do Morro, Vila Nova de Gaia

Looking at Ponte Dom Luis I

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Jardim do Morro, Vila Nova de Gaia

Looking at Mosteiro da Serra do Pilar

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Teleférico de Gaia, Vila Nova de Gaia

Looking at Ponte Dom Luis I and Porto

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Miradouro do Largo de Aviz

Panorma of Vila Nova de Gaia, Douro, and Porto

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Miradouro do Largo de Aviz

Douro and Porto

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Batalha, Porto

More Azuleijos

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Alex at the beach, Esposende

And we're going north!

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Claudia at the beach, Esposende

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Claudia at the beach, Esposende

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Alex walking on the beach of Esposende

I really love the beach

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Claudia & Alex

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Protecting the harbour of Esposende

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Lighthouse and ruins, Esposende

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Santuário do Sagrado Coração de Jesus

Monte de Santa Luzia, Viana do Castelo

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Santuário do Sagrado Coração de Jesus

Religiosity remains a major theme

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Viana do Castelo

Seen from the Monte de Santa Luzia

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Old town, Viana do Castelo

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Claudia

More experiments in black & white photography

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Tosta de queijo, our favourite snack

Usually breakfast was big and so we never ate a real lunch

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Feeling at home in Gemieira, Ponte de Lima

The Swiss love their Brutalism, and so does this hotel

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Claudia, eating breakfast

As I said, breakfast was usually very, very big

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Running from Gemieira to Ponte de Lima

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Running from Gemieira to Ponte de Lima

Vineyards are everywhere

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Running from Gemieira to Ponte de Lima

Vineyards are everywhere

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Running from Gemieira to Ponte de Lima

Vineyards are everywhere

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Not sure if irony or fascism?

“No transit for vehicles transporting ill-educated, disobedient and unwashed people”

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Running from Gemieira to Ponte de Lima

We liked the shade on the Ecovia

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Old bridge at Ponte de Lima

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The big market of Ponte de Lima started today!

The town was founded in 1125...

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The new market, the big one, got started in 1825

That's why it's the "new" one

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Sé Catedral de Braga

A stop on the way east

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Sé Catedral de Braga

Religiosity...

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Sé Catedral de Braga

Gold...

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Sé Catedral de Braga

Altars...

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Sé Catedral de Braga

An organ!

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Braga

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Braga

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Braga

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Pousada de Santa Maria do Bouro

Also known as Pousada Mosteiro de Amares

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Pousada de Santa Maria do Bouro

Behind the imposing walls are gardens and an orange orchard

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Pousada de Santa Maria do Bouro

It used to be yet another monastery

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Looking at Rio Cavado and Rio Caldo

From our hotel high up in Caniçada

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Sunset on the Rio Cavado

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Beginning our hike in the Serra do Gerês

These structures are traditional, rodent-proof corn storage

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Hiking in the Serra do Gerês

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Hiking in the Serra do Gerês

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Hiking in the Serra do Gerês

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Hiking in the Serra do Gerês

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Claudia

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Hiking in the Serra do Gerês

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Hiking in the Serra do Gerês

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Hiking in the Serra do Gerês

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Claudia

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Alex

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Claudia

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Hiking in the Serra do Gerês

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Alex

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Rio Homem

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Alex

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Still hiking in the Serra do Gerês

The trail is called Águia do Sarilhão

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Still hiking in the Serra do Gerês

Fraga do Sarilhão must be nearby...

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Alex pointing at things...

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Claudia & Alex

Rio Homem in the background

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Alex

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Alex & Claudia

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Alex at Rio Homem

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Still hiking in the Serra do Gerês

Still on the Trilho da Águia do Sarilhão

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Still hiking in the Serra do Gerês

Happy for the shade!

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Claudia on the Geira (an old Roman road)

It linked Bracara Augusta (Braga) and Astúrica Augusta (Astorga)

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Details on the old Roman road

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Still on the Trilho da Águia do Sarilhão

Loving the shade!

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The road goes on and on

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Looking at Rio Homem again

The dam is called Barragem de Vilarinhos das Furnas

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The old Roman road

No shade, now

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Claudia on the old Roman road

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Alex

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An old Roman milestone

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I love the flowers

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Looking west at the dam itself

Barragem de Vilarinho das Furnas

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Turning away from the river

Back to Campo do Gerês

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Entering Campo do Gerês

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Campo do Gerês seemed to have no café

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Later that day, writing on the hotel terrace

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Driving south we made a stop in Guimarães

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Improvised extensions in Guimarães

As soon as you are a bit further away from the main square

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Guimarães

Largo do Toural

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Guimarães

Old town

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Alex in Guimarães

Largo da Oliveira

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Guimarães

Praça de São Tiago

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Castelo de Guimarães

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Alex in front of the Castelo de Guimarães

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Convento do Carmo in Guimarães

More convents...

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Back in Guimarães

Looking for coffee...

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Guimarães

No coffee...

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Guimarães

Azuleijos on the walls to keep the heat out

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Guimarães

We like it

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Largo Condessa do Juncal in Guimarães

Also the PCP office in the background (the communist party)

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We love flowers...

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More churches or convents or both...

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Largo do Toural, Guimarães

On the way back to the car

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Claudia taking pictures

Notice the typical cobblestones

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Guimarães

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Parking with a Brutalist attitude

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Casa de Mateus

Famous for their rosé

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Claudia in Casa de Mateus

These people have made big money

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Casa de Mateus has a very nice garden

The price is outrageous, however

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The roses of Casa de Mateus

They are very beautiful

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Claudia

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Vineyards of Casa de Mateus

We didn't even stop in Vila Real...

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Vineyards of Casa Mateus

We had heard about the garden...

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Casa de Mateus

And we wanted to see some green stuff

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Casa de Mateus

Big green stuff...

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Alex & Claudia

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More green stuff...

We did a second tour through the garden

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More roses!

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The garden is very nice at Casa Mateus

We need higher taxes and better wealth distribution

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It was late in the evening but we loved it

Plants are our best friends

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Rose

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As you can see the sun is still strong

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More roses

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More flowering plants

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And another rose

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But soon, time to leave...

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Arriving in the Douro valley

The vineyards are strong, here

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Settlements down by the river

And tons of vineyards

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The hills are very steep

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Breakfast at the hotel in Pinhão was good

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And so we went for our walk

Tanks for the wine

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Looking at the other river bank

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Up into the vineyards

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Alex still feeling fresh

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Love those greens

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Love those terraces

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Love these grapes

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Just look at the earth

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Olive trees, too

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Claudia

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Up and up we go

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Looking at a Quinta on the other side of the river

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The river simply meanders through this landscape

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The bridge of Pinhão in the distance

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Cork oak is harvested every 7 to 10 years

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Somebody went over the landscape with a comb

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Close to the summit!

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Can't even see the river from up here

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There are cruise ships going up and down the river

The aren't allowed to move after sunset

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Alex

"I guess we still aren't there, yet?"

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So artificial and still so beautiful

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Alex

"It gets even steeper!?"

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Vineyards, olives, and wilderness

Patches of wilderness to avoid monoculture?

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Dusty feet

We stopped at Casal de Loivos for some water

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Hill sides with rocky outcrops

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Looking at Pinhão again

The bridge is pretty narrow and full of trucks and buses

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Somebody is keeping bees

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Claudia in a small gate of the Trancoso city walls

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The people of Trancoso like their potted plants

I am reminded of my walks in Nara

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Alex on the unsecured city walls of Trancoso

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Trancoso was a surprise stop on the way south

We didn't expect to find such glorious city walls

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Trancoso

Looking from a tower towards the castle

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Trancoso

Old houses falling appart

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Trancoso

Walking through the city center towards the castle

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Alex in front of a church

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Coblestone streets full of hortensia (hydrangea)

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We're always excited to find plant lovers

Our balcony might look like this, too!

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I love taking pictures of roses

The castle of Trancoso in the background

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Sadly, the Trancoso castle was closed

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Lots of windmills in Portugal

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More driving! We arrive at Belmonte

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A cemetary up the beautiful hill (Belmonte)

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Belmonte

Another closed castle, another chapel

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This old lady of Belmonte really loves plants

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As we complimented the old lady on her plants

she gave Claudia a flower of her passion fruit plant

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Have you seen passion fruit flowers?

They are amazing!

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Streets of Belmonte

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In Switzerland, you hardly ever see water towers

We have hills where we keep the water reservoirs

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Portugal has a lot of cobblestones

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Belmonte

Old town on the hill itself

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Finally arriving in the Serra da Estrela

Driving through Manteigas and then up the mountain side

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We're in the Serra da Estrela and going for a hike!

This chapel is closed

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The hotel suggested some nice hiking trails

The stones of the Serra da Estrela

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The house of the first tuberculosis patient to live up here

How blessed we are for having antibiotics!

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Alex enjoying the view

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Serra da Estrela

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Manteigas

Apparently there's skiing here in winter

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Claudia

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Serra da Estrela

The land is dry

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A rock of the Serra da Estrela

And Manteigas in the background below

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Manteigas

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Alex & Claudia

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Alex posing above Manteigas

Panorama!

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Alex activating the monkey spirit

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The Serra da Estrela does not exceed 2000m

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Serra da Estrela

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Serra da Estrela

Orange berries growing on a tree

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Serra da Estrela

More rocks

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Serra da Estrela

Many more rocks

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Serra da Estrela

There will be a lot of rocks in your future

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Serra da Estrela

In love with rocks

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Serra da Estrela

Imagine the rocks being sleeping trolls

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Serra da Estrela

Rocks, frozen in time

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Serra da Estrela

Tomorrow, we will hike to these two sisters in the background

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Serra da Estrela

Today, we will take pictures of rocks

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Serra da Estrela

Perfect colors: blue, gray.

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Serra da Estrela

Some quartz, too

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Serra da Estrela

Once you're up here, it's not steep

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Serra da Estrela

These are the "mountains of the star"

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Serra da Estrela

A small grove and some shade

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Serra da Estrela

Strange flowers growing from the ground

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These flowers have no leaves and no stems!?

How can this be, I wonder...

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Claudia resting on a rock

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Alex standing in front of rocks

As you can see, the air up here is nice and cool

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Serra da Estrela

These plants are so different from what I see at home

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Serra da Estrela

Alex hiding in hardy plants

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Claudia

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Claudia

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Serra da Estrela

These plants are lovely

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Serra da Estrela

Yellow flowers (the gorse season is over)

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Serra da Estrela

Beautiful grass

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Serra da Estrela

Somewhere down there was a minuscule rivulet

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Claudia

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Claudia and a lot of rocks

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We have reached the Ribeira da Fervença

At the end is the Barragem de Vale do Rossim

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Serra da Estrela

Vale do Rossim: you may take a bath, here

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Alex looking at the future

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Barragem de Vale do Rossim

Also notice the burnt trees to the right

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Huuuuuge Panorama

Vale do Rossim

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Alex & Claudia

We're having a good time up here

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More burnt trees

There was a huge forest fire in 2017

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Forest fires in Portugal are common

In 2017 over 60 people died in this fire

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Forest fires are often caused by people

Set a fire, then buy the land as the owner goes bankrupt

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I prefer living under a rock!

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Serra da Estrela

A new day, a new hike: our goal in the distance

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Serra da Estrela

Progress is much faster today

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Serra da Estrela

That also means: less pictures today

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Serra da Estrela

Although there still are many rock pictures ahead...

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Claudia

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Serra da Estrela

Today we're going on a longer hike

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Serra da Estrela

In the distance the land is much flatter

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Serra da Estrela

We like round rocks

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Serra da Estrela

Somebody cut these rocks appart

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Alex in a stone giant car seat

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Alex

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Serra da Estrela

Notice the black pyramid in the background

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Serra da Estrela

Black Pyramid

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Serra da Estrela

And another pile of rocks

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We're going to the left

The back of the pyramid is not as impressive

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I still love those colours

Blue, gray, green...

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Serra da Estrela

Climbing further up

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Serra da Estrela

Vale do Conde, another tiny streamlet

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Serra da Estrela

It's pretty flat up here

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Claudia

It is quite windy

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Alex

These are the markers we've been following

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This is what we look like to aliens

Taking pictures of the world

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Is this the back of the black pyramid?

I can't tell.

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Serra da Estrela

Lovely lovely rocks

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Serra da Estrela

I love the quiet up here: we saw maybe six other people

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Alex

Below is the Vale do Rossim, the of yesterday's hike

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Claudia and the Valley of the Wind

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Claudia & Alex

And lots of hair being blown around

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Time to leave this land of rocks

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Our next goal: the dam

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Just a bit further down, the land changes

What causes this change in vegetation, sheep?

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Sometimes it looks like the road marks a boundary

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Serra da Estrela

Barragem de Vale do Rossim

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Barragem de Vale do Rossim

How old is this dam? Wikipedia says 1956.

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Driving west along the mountains

Strange how the vegetation is so different, here

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Serra da Estrela

Looking at some village

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Serra da Estrela

Still astonished at the vegetation

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Serra da Estrela

Did all of this burn?

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We arrived at Piódão

This is one of the "slate villages"

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We used slate here in Switzerland, too

Slate can be used for walls and for the roof

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Piódão is small and full of tourists

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Piódão in black and white

The texture of the slate buildings and the vegetation is fascinating

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Slate walls in Piódão

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Black and white Piódão

It seems better suited for the harsh light conditions

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Piódão

Yes, beautiful texture

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Piódão

A steep rivulet running through the village

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You know me

I cannot resist a rose

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Piódão

One or two rooms per floor

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Piódão

Seen from below

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Piódão

Alex on a bridge

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Claudia

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Piódão

A cold pool on the valley floor

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Claudia on the same bridge

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Amaryllis

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We arrived in Coimbra at last

The hill is dominated by the university

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We saw a Eurasian hoopoe (upupa epops)

They are very rare in Switzerland

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Coimbra

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Coimbra

Approaching the town you start seeing decay

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Alex

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Alex, Ana and Claudia

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We were looking for the entrance to the botanical gardens

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Coimbra

​#OurStreets as they say these days

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Coimbra, Sé Velha

The old cathedral

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Coimbra, Sé Velha

Notice the azuleijos

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Coimbra, Sé Velha

Yes, more churches...

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Coimbra, Sé Velha

Religion is strong

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Coimbra, Sé Velha

The cloister attached to the cathedral

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We did not go see the Biblioteca Joanina

Too many people, I think!

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Coimbra

Claudia on the Pátio das Escolas

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Coimbra

Finally, the botanical garden!

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Coimbra, Jardim Botânico

Sadly, the walk was short and not very exciting

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Coimbra

Back in the old town at the foot of the hill

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Coimbra

Looking at the backs of buildings

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Coimbra

Rebuilding

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Coimbra

Later that day, clouds came up

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Coimbra

We went for a walk in the hotel garden

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Morning glory (ipomoea)

We have seen a lot of these...

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Morning glory (ipomoea)

Indeed... and thus the holiday comes to an end

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At the airport

Claudia is not happy

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